Seized quill stem

On Feb 11, 1:22*pm, AMuzi wrote:
*"Graham" wrote:
Anyone got any tricks for getting a seized aluminium quill stem out of a
steel fork steerer tube.
I have tried:
1. Penetrating oil.
2. Putting a flat steel bar in the drop outs holding that in a vice and
turning the handle bars but that just started to twist the forks.
3. A piece of 2 x 1 timber between the forks up by the crown again held in
a
vice and turning the handle bars but no joy.
wrote
Sheldon's list of stuck seat-post tactics suggests ammonia instead of
penetrating oil for aluminum-steel corrosion:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
RD wrote:
Had this problem myself. If all else fails, a good blow torch lots of heat,
apply heat melt alloy out of steel tube. Clean up remains, new stem all is
well. Sounds bad, but is easy, works and quick with no damage. *Didn't even
damage paint job.

Indeed:http://www.yellowjersey.org/POST_OUT.JPG

mohttp://www.yellowjersey.org/goodn.html


Seeing those pictures always makes me want to get a stuck seatpost or
stem just so I can wreak some havoc with my torch. -- Jay Beattie.

On Feb 11, 1:24*pm, thirty-six wrote:
On 11 Feb, 21:18, thirty-six wrote:





On 11 Feb, 20:34, "Graham" wrote:

Anyone got any tricks for getting a seized aluminium quill stem out of a
steel fork steerer tube.

I have tried:

1. Penetrating oil.

2. Putting a flat steel bar in the drop outs holding that in a vice and
turning the handle bars but that just started to twist the forks.

3. A piece of 2 x 1 timber between the forks up by the crown again held in a
vice and turning the handle bars but no joy.

Graham.

Lets start with the simple stuff. *With the bolt in the stem and
engaged in the expander cone, but not tight, hit the bolt with a
hammer. *This releases the cone (or wedge).

Now if the stem does not come lose with simple handling, lay a piece
of leather over the stem on top of which hold a thin steel plate, hit
it with a hammer, the bigger the better. *If the stem does not
release, snug up the bolt and cone and turn the bicycle upside down.
Pour in kerosene to fill the steerer tube and leave for a day. *Pour
out the kerosene and right the bicycle, re-install wheel. *Hammer the
stem and torque loose (applying torque while holding a steel plate and
hammering will be fun to watch). #

*You may need to use a 4lb hammer.

iF there is a need to preserve the stem because it is irreplaceable,
you may be able to drop the forks and cut the steerer using a
hacksaw. *This will obviously require repairing, so make sure you have
a framebuilder who will do the job first.- Hide quoted text -

I would recommend saving the steerer and the stem by using a hacksaw
to cut the frame at the top tube/head tube and down tube/ head tube
junctions. Again, have a skilled framebuilder perform any needed
repairs. -- Jay Beattie.

On 11 Feb, 23:36, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Graham who? wrote:
Anyone got any tricks for getting a seized aluminium quill stem out
of a steel fork steerer tube.
I have tried:
1. Penetrating oil.
2. Putting a flat steel bar in the drop outs holding that in a vice
* *and turning the handle bars but that just started to twist the
* *forks.
3. A piece of 2 x 1 timber between the forks up by the crown again
* *held in a vice and turning the handle bars but no joy.

Not to worry, the stem is held in place by a layer of aluminum oxide
that has expanded the steer tube. *Saw off the stem. *Renove the fork,
and bore a maximum diameter hole through the stem-stub. *Use a Dremel
tool to grind through the aluminum wall on one side and pull out the
stem.

Convert your bicycle to a threadless steertube and be done with it.
Any good frame builder can do this for you. *There is a reason for not
using aluminum quill stems although the faithful believe the
threadless steertube is a sham.

Jobst Brandt

the game is "Simon says", you'll need to change your name.

On 02/11/2010 10:22 PM, AMuzi wrote:
"Graham" wrote:
Anyone got any tricks for getting a seized aluminium quill stem out
of a
steel fork steerer tube.
I have tried:
1. Penetrating oil.
2. Putting a flat steel bar in the drop outs holding that in a vice and
turning the handle bars but that just started to twist the forks.
3. A piece of 2 x 1 timber between the forks up by the crown again
held in a
vice and turning the handle bars but no joy.

wrote
Sheldon's list of stuck seat-post tactics suggests ammonia instead of
penetrating oil for aluminum-steel corrosion:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html


RD wrote:
Had this problem myself. If all else fails, a good blow torch lots of
heat, apply heat melt alloy out of steel tube. Clean up remains, new
stem all is well. Sounds bad, but is easy, works and quick with no
damage. Didn't even damage paint job.

Indeed:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/POST_OUT.JPG

mo
http://www.yellowjersey.org/goodn.html

In the true path of rbt, "This ones really stuck, I may need a bigger
blowtorch..."

On 11 Feb, 22:36, Andre Jute wrote:
Heat might also help but a blowtorch ruins the paintwork.

Indeed, but there may well be no need to melt the aluminum inside.
A thermal _shock_ might free it: heat it up and make it cool quickly
by dipping in ice cold water.
The paintwork will be ruined only locally.

Sergio
Pisa

"sergio" wrote in message
...
On 11 Feb, 22:36, Andre Jute wrote:
Heat might also help but a blowtorch ruins the paintwork.

Indeed, but there may well be no need to melt the aluminum inside.
A thermal _shock_ might free it: heat it up and make it cool quickly
by dipping in ice cold water.
The paintwork will be ruined only locally.

Hi Guys,

Thanks to all who came up with suggestions. I tried several includind
soaking it in lemon juice over night as I did not have any ammonia to hand.
Tried again this morning with a sizeable piece of wood between the forks up
by the crown but had to give that up as it started to bend the forks. I was
surprised how easy steel forks bend. So I had to straighten them again.
Hopefully no permanent weakness induced!!!!

I then stripped off mudguards and front brake and clamped the crown itself
in my vice between two pieces of wood and then levered the handlebars with
some serious force. Eventually by applying the force suddenly the corrosion
cracked, literally. I thought I had broken something!! Then it was a case of
alternating the direction of the force and applying lots of oil and at first
it just creaked and then moved a little further each time until after about
20 minutes it was out leaving me with seriously aching shoulders.

All that to service my headset which I found to have in it a shattered
bearing ball. The roads in the UK are crated with potholes and sufferring
serious surface breakup after the recent prolonged cold spell and snow. They
are destroying my bike. 5 punctures, 2 ruined tyres and a broken headset
bearing ball. Not to mention the damage caused by the grit the local
authorities are spreading on the road to combat the ice. My chain is on its
way out and I am going through brake blocks far faster than I can ever
recall. The joys of winter cycling!!!!!

Everyting is now well greased and back together.

Thanks again.

Graham.

On 12 Feb, 14:37, "Graham" wrote:
Everyting is now well greased and back together.

All's well that ends well.
Now, keep up with the excercise: dismantle, clean and re-grease more
often.
And keep on riding, the ultimate goal of course.

Sergio
Pisa

On 12 Feb, 18:02, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Heat has no effect on aluminum oxide inside a steel steertube.

You serious, Jobst?
Isn't this statement a tad too bold?

Sergio
Pisa

On 12 Feb, 11:16, sergio wrote:
On 11 Feb, 22:36, Andre Jute wrote:

Heat might also help but a blowtorch ruins the paintwork.

Indeed, but there may well be no need to melt the aluminum inside.
A thermal _shock_ might free it: heat it up and make it cool quickly
by dipping in ice cold water.

I believe you may be right. The lower conductivity of the steel will
allow the aluminium stem to shrink away from it when suddenly cooled.
If the temperature was taken high enough to damage paintwork, then oil
should be used as the cooling medium. If the bolt and expander are
removed a torch can be used inside the steerer, venting up through
tthe stem. The only damage would likely be to plastic spacers in the
headset bearings.


The paintwork will be ruined only locally.

Sergio
Pisa

On 12 Feb, 17:21, sergio wrote:
On 12 Feb, 18:02, Jobst Brandt wrote:

Heat has no effect on aluminum oxide inside a steel steertube.

You serious, Jobst?
Isn't this statement a tad too bold?

Sergio
Pisa

Not quite as far fetched as a bicycle cannot be pedalled.