#11
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Seized quill stem
On Feb 11, 1:22*pm, AMuzi wrote:
*"Graham" wrote: Anyone got any tricks for getting a seized aluminium quill stem out of a steel fork steerer tube. I have tried: 1. Penetrating oil. 2. Putting a flat steel bar in the drop outs holding that in a vice and turning the handle bars but that just started to twist the forks. 3. A piece of 2 x 1 timber between the forks up by the crown again held in a vice and turning the handle bars but no joy. wrote Sheldon's list of stuck seat-post tactics suggests ammonia instead of penetrating oil for aluminum-steel corrosion: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html RD wrote: Had this problem myself. If all else fails, a good blow torch lots of heat, apply heat melt alloy out of steel tube. Clean up remains, new stem all is well. Sounds bad, but is easy, works and quick with no damage. *Didn't even damage paint job. Indeed:http://www.yellowjersey.org/POST_OUT.JPG mohttp://www.yellowjersey.org/goodn.html Seeing those pictures always makes me want to get a stuck seatpost or stem just so I can wreak some havoc with my torch. -- Jay Beattie. |
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#12
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Seized quill stem
On Feb 11, 1:24*pm, thirty-six wrote:
On 11 Feb, 21:18, thirty-six wrote: On 11 Feb, 20:34, "Graham" wrote: Anyone got any tricks for getting a seized aluminium quill stem out of a steel fork steerer tube. I have tried: 1. Penetrating oil. 2. Putting a flat steel bar in the drop outs holding that in a vice and turning the handle bars but that just started to twist the forks. 3. A piece of 2 x 1 timber between the forks up by the crown again held in a vice and turning the handle bars but no joy. Graham. Lets start with the simple stuff. *With the bolt in the stem and engaged in the expander cone, but not tight, hit the bolt with a hammer. *This releases the cone (or wedge). Now if the stem does not come lose with simple handling, lay a piece of leather over the stem on top of which hold a thin steel plate, hit it with a hammer, the bigger the better. *If the stem does not release, snug up the bolt and cone and turn the bicycle upside down. Pour in kerosene to fill the steerer tube and leave for a day. *Pour out the kerosene and right the bicycle, re-install wheel. *Hammer the stem and torque loose (applying torque while holding a steel plate and hammering will be fun to watch). # *You may need to use a 4lb hammer. iF there is a need to preserve the stem because it is irreplaceable, you may be able to drop the forks and cut the steerer using a hacksaw. *This will obviously require repairing, so make sure you have a framebuilder who will do the job first.- Hide quoted text - I would recommend saving the steerer and the stem by using a hacksaw to cut the frame at the top tube/head tube and down tube/ head tube junctions. Again, have a skilled framebuilder perform any needed repairs. -- Jay Beattie. |
#13
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Seized quill stem
On 11 Feb, 23:36, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Graham who? wrote: Anyone got any tricks for getting a seized aluminium quill stem out of a steel fork steerer tube. I have tried: 1. Penetrating oil. 2. Putting a flat steel bar in the drop outs holding that in a vice * *and turning the handle bars but that just started to twist the * *forks. 3. A piece of 2 x 1 timber between the forks up by the crown again * *held in a vice and turning the handle bars but no joy. Not to worry, the stem is held in place by a layer of aluminum oxide that has expanded the steer tube. *Saw off the stem. *Renove the fork, and bore a maximum diameter hole through the stem-stub. *Use a Dremel tool to grind through the aluminum wall on one side and pull out the stem. Convert your bicycle to a threadless steertube and be done with it. Any good frame builder can do this for you. *There is a reason for not using aluminum quill stems although the faithful believe the threadless steertube is a sham. Jobst Brandt the game is "Simon says", you'll need to change your name. |
#14
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Seized quill stem
On 02/11/2010 10:22 PM, AMuzi wrote:
"Graham" wrote: Anyone got any tricks for getting a seized aluminium quill stem out of a steel fork steerer tube. I have tried: 1. Penetrating oil. 2. Putting a flat steel bar in the drop outs holding that in a vice and turning the handle bars but that just started to twist the forks. 3. A piece of 2 x 1 timber between the forks up by the crown again held in a vice and turning the handle bars but no joy. wrote Sheldon's list of stuck seat-post tactics suggests ammonia instead of penetrating oil for aluminum-steel corrosion: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html RD wrote: Had this problem myself. If all else fails, a good blow torch lots of heat, apply heat melt alloy out of steel tube. Clean up remains, new stem all is well. Sounds bad, but is easy, works and quick with no damage. Didn't even damage paint job. Indeed: http://www.yellowjersey.org/POST_OUT.JPG mo http://www.yellowjersey.org/goodn.html In the true path of rbt, "This ones really stuck, I may need a bigger blowtorch..." |
#15
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Seized quill stem
On 11 Feb, 22:36, Andre Jute wrote:
Heat might also help but a blowtorch ruins the paintwork. Indeed, but there may well be no need to melt the aluminum inside. A thermal _shock_ might free it: heat it up and make it cool quickly by dipping in ice cold water. The paintwork will be ruined only locally. Sergio Pisa |
#16
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Seized quill stem
"sergio" wrote in message ... On 11 Feb, 22:36, Andre Jute wrote: Heat might also help but a blowtorch ruins the paintwork. Indeed, but there may well be no need to melt the aluminum inside. A thermal _shock_ might free it: heat it up and make it cool quickly by dipping in ice cold water. The paintwork will be ruined only locally. Hi Guys, Thanks to all who came up with suggestions. I tried several includind soaking it in lemon juice over night as I did not have any ammonia to hand. Tried again this morning with a sizeable piece of wood between the forks up by the crown but had to give that up as it started to bend the forks. I was surprised how easy steel forks bend. So I had to straighten them again. Hopefully no permanent weakness induced!!!! I then stripped off mudguards and front brake and clamped the crown itself in my vice between two pieces of wood and then levered the handlebars with some serious force. Eventually by applying the force suddenly the corrosion cracked, literally. I thought I had broken something!! Then it was a case of alternating the direction of the force and applying lots of oil and at first it just creaked and then moved a little further each time until after about 20 minutes it was out leaving me with seriously aching shoulders. All that to service my headset which I found to have in it a shattered bearing ball. The roads in the UK are crated with potholes and sufferring serious surface breakup after the recent prolonged cold spell and snow. They are destroying my bike. 5 punctures, 2 ruined tyres and a broken headset bearing ball. Not to mention the damage caused by the grit the local authorities are spreading on the road to combat the ice. My chain is on its way out and I am going through brake blocks far faster than I can ever recall. The joys of winter cycling!!!!! Everyting is now well greased and back together. Thanks again. Graham. |
#17
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Seized quill stem
On 12 Feb, 14:37, "Graham" wrote:
Everyting is now well greased and back together. All's well that ends well. Now, keep up with the excercise: dismantle, clean and re-grease more often. And keep on riding, the ultimate goal of course. Sergio Pisa |
#18
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Seized quill stem
On 12 Feb, 18:02, Jobst Brandt wrote:
Heat has no effect on aluminum oxide inside a steel steertube. You serious, Jobst? Isn't this statement a tad too bold? Sergio Pisa |
#19
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Seized quill stem
On 12 Feb, 11:16, sergio wrote:
On 11 Feb, 22:36, Andre Jute wrote: Heat might also help but a blowtorch ruins the paintwork. Indeed, but there may well be no need to melt the aluminum inside. A thermal _shock_ might free it: heat it up and make it cool quickly by dipping in ice cold water. I believe you may be right. The lower conductivity of the steel will allow the aluminium stem to shrink away from it when suddenly cooled. If the temperature was taken high enough to damage paintwork, then oil should be used as the cooling medium. If the bolt and expander are removed a torch can be used inside the steerer, venting up through tthe stem. The only damage would likely be to plastic spacers in the headset bearings. The paintwork will be ruined only locally. Sergio Pisa |
#20
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Seized quill stem
On 12 Feb, 17:21, sergio wrote:
On 12 Feb, 18:02, Jobst Brandt wrote: Heat has no effect on aluminum oxide inside a steel steertube. You serious, Jobst? Isn't this statement a tad too bold? Sergio Pisa Not quite as far fetched as a bicycle cannot be pedalled. |
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