Removing loctited axle sleeve

Does anyone know how to break apart things which are loctited together?
I have read that chlorinated solvents dissolve loctite and that heat is
another solution. My problem is that I have a cromoly tube sleeve
loctited onto my Coker hub's axle. Why, you might ask? Well my bike
builder who rebuilt my wheel wasn't aware of 6203-10 bearings (40mm OD,
5/8" ID) so he used the more common 6203 bearings sitting on a sleeve
on the axle. The sleeve was loctited in place. This was fine for a
while when I was riding with 125mm cranks but now I want to change to
long cranks for the 'Moonride' (http://www.moonride.co.nz).

One of the sleeves (plus bearing) came off by hand, 'as seen here'
(http://tinyurl.com/oua4u)
On the other side I pulled the bearing off but the sleeve remains
stubbornly in place. 'See this pic ' (http://tinyurl.com/g2hbk) I've
tried dripping dichloromethane on the sleeve and trying to whack the
sleeve off with a screw and hammer, to little effect. The sleeve is
hard up against the 'step' in the axle, so there's precious little to
get any purchase on with the screwdriver. I guess the next step is to
use heat on the sleeve. I'm not sure whether this is a good idea - will
this reduce the strength of the hub (I think the UDC Coker cromoly hub
is heat-treated?)? Anyone got any other suggestions before I take to my
hub with a bunsen burner?

'More photos' (http://tinyurl.com/qmltw)


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TonyMelton

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Hey there!

I think solvents will be your best bet, because any sort of heat could
weaken the axle shaft (or hub shell if you got too close). Although i
don't know what type of solvent will disolve locktight. Sorry.

Rock on!
Edd


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Locktite is a little lide epoxy in that it generally takes vry little
heat to soften. Don't remember exactly but in the neighborhood of 300
degrees or a little more. Changing heat treating of heat treated steel
parts takes 3-4 times that amount. A propayne torch directed to the
sleeve should supply plenty of heat without causing any appreciable
transfer to other parts.


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tumblebug rollin
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I hope you mean 300 degrees Fahrenheit rather than Celsius! Bunsen
burner here I come!


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TonyMelton

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Here's a 'Loctite removal tip'
(http://www.guzzitech.com/LockTite-SC.html) that I found on the web.
I've never tried it so I don't know how well it actually works. Heat
is also the other option.



Easy Locktite Removal

We use a lot of Locktite at work: RC635 (Max. Strength Retaining), 290
(Adhesive/Sealant, Wicking), 242 (Threadlocker) and 7649 primer for 518
(Gasket Eliminator). Whenever we have to remove the stuff or break
something free, we cringe! We've called Locktite and asked about
solvents. They claim that none exist. Heat isn't always a good solution
because you can warp or break castings.

Recently, just by luck, we spilled some methyl alcohol on a fitting
which had Locktite on it. The alcohol softened and then dissolved the
Locktite.

Try this before hauling out the blowtorch.


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Hi Tony;

Good thing you are a chemist and have access to a range of solvents. I
am surprised methylene chloride didn't work, but you can try the
methanol, I might try acetone also. The suggestion I would add is to
try sonicating the part also, that seems to help with parts that have
hard to get to places.


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Jim_Rob

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If you're a chemist, why haven't you tried an impulse solvent like
trinitrotoluene? That'll take her off of there.


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harper

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Heh, heh let's call TNT 'plan B'.

After more tinkering I've concluded that even if solvents did
completely dissolve the locktite I'm still left with the problem of the
sleeve being tightly fitted to the axle, and no easy way to whack/pull
it off. I think the solution may be to take it to an engineer with a
CNC machine to accurately cut through just the sleeve, leaving the axle
below unscathed.


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TonyMelton wrote:
I think the solution may be to take it to an engineer with a CNC machine
to accurately cut through just the sleeve, leaving the axle below
unscathed.



Or just a Dremel tool to slice it and pry it open. I searched all over
and couldn't find out what the breakdown temperature of cyanoacrylate
was.


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harper

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harper wrote:
Or just a Dremel tool to slice it and pry it open. I searched all over
and couldn't find out what the breakdown temperature of cyanoacrylate
was.


'Loctite' (http://www.loctite.com/) and 'Permatex'
(http://www.permatex.com/) have technical data sheets for their
products that give the breakdown temperature for the various flavors of
thread lockers and sleeve retainers. It depends on the particular
product used. Some are designed for higher temperature applications
(like in or near engines) and those will breakdown at higher
temperatures. The regular thread lockers and stuff will breakdown at
comparatively lower temperatures.

For example for the blue medium strength Loctite (243) they suggest
localized heating to 250 deg C and disassemble the parts while hot.


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