Building wheels. UST rims and lacing pattern

Hello all,

I have just picked up a pair of DT Hugi 240s from ebay at a good price.
They are 28H, which restricts my rim choice (I would prefer 32H). I
am interested in building them up with Mavic XM 819 UST rims, however I
have never built with mavic UST wheels before, do I need special
spokes? Presumably I need a special tool to tension the spokes.

My other question is lacing patterns, I was thinking mixed 2X/3X on the
rear and 2X on the front (to be used for XC riding with rim brakes).
What do people think of this and also will there be any problems if the
hubs were used in a different pattern previously.

TIA for any advice

Regards

-Tom

Wrote:
Hello all,

I have just picked up a pair of DT Hugi 240s from ebay at a goo
price.
They are 28H, which restricts my rim choice (I would prefer 32H). I
am interested in building them up with Mavic XM 819 UST rims, howeve
I
have never built with mavic UST wheels before, do I need special
spokes? Presumably I need a special tool to tension the spokes.

My other question is lacing patterns, I was thinking mixed 2X/3X o
the
rear and 2X on the front (to be used for XC riding with rim brakes).
What do people think of this and also will there be any problems i
the
hubs were used in a different pattern previously.

TIA for any advice

Regards

-Tom

Did you get the fittings for the rims?
I think your lacing pattern plan is OK.
You need the fittings and the wrench that tightens them.
The ones for 3.1 rim are left hand threaded and require Blue Loctite.
I would use teflon grease on the nipple heads where they will "slide
against the "hollow screws" and spoke threads, but be careful not t
get grease on the rim fitting "hollow Screw" threads that "cradle" th
nipples.
Use long nipples, 16 mm if you can, and see if you can get Sapim Polya
to aid in spherical alignment.

From Mavic's tech site about the 3.1 UST:
BUILDING THE X3.1 UST® DISC RIMS
Tools needed
• A classic spoke wrench
• A hollow screw wrench M40630
• Loctite® 243 thread lock or equivalent
Build a tubeless rim in the classic manner except for the point
below:
Insert a hollow screw head first into the spoke. Then tighten the spok
nipple about 3 turns.
At first, tighten the hollow screw in the corresponding rim hole onl
one turn.
Once all the spokes are properly placed, put the Loctite® 243 threa
lock or equivalent on the hollow screws.
Tighten the hollow screws with the wrench M40630. Caution: Left han
thread. Torque: 5.5 Nm.
Put a drop of oil around every spoke nipple so they don’t jam agains
the hollow screws.
Adjust the spoke tension with a classic spoke wrench by using the spok
nipples. Never use the hollow screws.
Recommendations for building a disc rim: see page 19.
Mavic recommends using a minimum length of 16 mm spoke nipples only fo
2 reasons:
-To avoid losing a nipple between the 2 walls of the rim when removin
or building the rim.
-To avoid damaging the hollow screws with the spoke wrench, if th
nipple does not sufficiently cover the screw.
Do not use the hollow screws to adjust the radial truing of the wheel.
The hollow screws must be glued, and then completely tightened, using
5.5 Nm torque. The spoke nipples must be used to build and adjust th
wheel.
Once the tension of the wheel has been adjusted, the hollow screws mus
never be tightened or loosened. To remove one, first remove the spoke.

There likley is another Mavic Tech document for your model rim, but
don't know where it is

--
daveornee

Thank you for the information that is very useful. I have not bought
the rims yet, only the hubs. I will buy the rest later today. I was
intending on using Sapim spokes (CX-ray) so will be using Polyax
nipples.

Regards

-Tom