Can bend .064 - 6061 AL sheet metal piece around 22.3mm handlebar for shim anchored w/JB Weld?

Can bend .064 - 6061 AL sheet metal piece around 22.3mm handlebar for
shim anchored w/JB Weld?

This is the perfect size for 22.3 to 26mm handlebar shim conversion,
but did not know if AL rectangles would splinter up on .064 - 6061 AL
sheet metal: if 22.3mm is NOT too tight a diameter for .064 - 6061 AL
to bend around slowly anchored by JB Weld.

An easier $40 + JB Weld alternative is to get 22.3/25.4mm shims and
25.4/26mm shims and JB Weld to bar which does not sound the best, but
workable if 22.3mm is too tight a diameter for .064 - 6061 AL to bend
around slowly anchored by JB Weld.

Another alternative would be to get thinneer AL Crimped seperator
sheets and wrap with JB Weld in between, which is a widely variable and
undeterminable result due to many layers of JB Weld but still may work.
It would be harder work, constant measurement, a more exact fit, and
possible scrapped bars.

Before I go and get threadless stem converter, adjustable stem, and new
bars, I'd like to experience what is already equipped with to make
reasonable comparisons later. It may be perfect with stock oem bars and
current threaded stem, so would like to make the current handlebars fit
my aerobars firmly: for more force in new grip pressure forward of
handlebar axis - greater control and flexible ergonomic body
positioning with aerobars.

A new threadless stem converter, adjustable stem, and new bars would be
opening up a new can of worms in unknown fit variables, without
knowing if I even need that headache now.


Thank You!

On 26 Jan 2007 04:30:02 -0800, "ddog" wrote:

Can bend .064 - 6061 AL sheet metal piece around 22.3mm handlebar for
shim anchored w/JB Weld?


Why don't you try it and come back and tell us?

If it cracks on that radius of bend, anneal it and try.

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant...owunits=inches

Got 4 cut 1-3/8" perfect 6061 AL pipes cut same exact thickness for $16
w/ shipping ($11 shipping).
Sheesh, wish I'd seen this a long time before. I will either cut with
sharp snips or hacksaw to bread pipe pieces into
2 halves each. Only needed 2 sets of shims, but for $11 shipping,
figured I'd get another set to be sure.



wrote:
On 26 Jan 2007 04:30:02 -0800, "ddog" wrote:

Can bend .064 - 6061 AL sheet metal piece around 22.3mm handlebar for
shim anchored w/JB Weld?


Why don't you try it and come back and tell us?

If it cracks on that radius of bend, anneal it and try.

Can bend .064 - 6061 AL sheet metal piece around 22.3mm handlebar for
shim anchored w/JB Weld?

This is the perfect size for 22.3 to 26mm handlebar shim conversion,
but did not know if AL rectangles would splinter up on .064 - 6061 AL
sheet metal: if 22.3mm is NOT too tight a diameter for .064 - 6061 AL
to bend around slowly anchored by JB Weld.

An easier $40 + JB Weld alternative is to get 22.3/25.4mm shims and
25.4/26mm shims and JB Weld to bar which does not sound the best, but
workable if 22.3mm is too tight a diameter for .064 - 6061 AL to bend
around slowly anchored by JB Weld.

Why would you want to risk your life on something like this? Your handlebar,
stem & fork are the items on your bike which, if they fail, can cause
serious injury or worse. Improvisation on a handlebar clamp is not a good
way to go; even the slightest distortions can lead to the clamping bolt
bending and breaking.

Still not sure exactly what you're trying to do though. Sounds like you want
to put a 22.2 cheapie steel handlebar into a stem made for 26.0. You can
pick up inexpensive handlebars at your LBS in 26.0, so why all the fuss?

Before I go and get threadless stem converter, adjustable stem, and new
bars, I'd like to experience what is already equipped with to make
reasonable comparisons later. It may be perfect with stock oem bars and
current threaded stem, so would like to make the current handlebars fit
my aerobars firmly: for more force in new grip pressure forward of
handlebar axis - greater control and flexible ergonomic body
positioning with aerobars.

Now I'm really confused. Is it the aero bar that's 22.2?

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com



"ddog" wrote in message
ups.com...
Can bend .064 - 6061 AL sheet metal piece around 22.3mm handlebar for
shim anchored w/JB Weld?

This is the perfect size for 22.3 to 26mm handlebar shim conversion,
but did not know if AL rectangles would splinter up on .064 - 6061 AL
sheet metal: if 22.3mm is NOT too tight a diameter for .064 - 6061 AL
to bend around slowly anchored by JB Weld.

An easier $40 + JB Weld alternative is to get 22.3/25.4mm shims and
25.4/26mm shims and JB Weld to bar which does not sound the best, but
workable if 22.3mm is too tight a diameter for .064 - 6061 AL to bend
around slowly anchored by JB Weld.

Another alternative would be to get thinneer AL Crimped seperator
sheets and wrap with JB Weld in between, which is a widely variable and
undeterminable result due to many layers of JB Weld but still may work.
It would be harder work, constant measurement, a more exact fit, and
possible scrapped bars.

Before I go and get threadless stem converter, adjustable stem, and new
bars, I'd like to experience what is already equipped with to make
reasonable comparisons later. It may be perfect with stock oem bars and
current threaded stem, so would like to make the current handlebars fit
my aerobars firmly: for more force in new grip pressure forward of
handlebar axis - greater control and flexible ergonomic body
positioning with aerobars.

A new threadless stem converter, adjustable stem, and new bars would be
opening up a new can of worms in unknown fit variables, without
knowing if I even need that headache now.


Thank You!

On Jan 26, 11:18 am, "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote:
Now I'm really confused. Is it the aero bar that's 22.2?

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycleswww.ChainReactionBicycles.com

Mike,

My 1971 Raleigh has stock 40cm outside width 22.3cm dia AL bars.
My Profile Century bars has 26/31.8 plastic conversion shims going to
JB Weld in it.

So with low bar shims jb welded to low bars in above post link, I will
effectly have no shims.

ddog wrote:

On Jan 26, 11:18 am, "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote:
Now I'm really confused. Is it the aero bar that's 22.2?

My 1971 Raleigh has stock 40cm outside width 22.3cm dia AL bars.
My Profile Century bars has 26/31.8 plastic conversion shims going to
JB Weld in it.

You're trying to shim 35 year old aluminum bars to fit in modern
equipment? It's probably time for new handlebars anyway. Aluminum
handlebars do wear out, and the failure mode can be ugly.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

writes:

On 26 Jan 2007 04:30:02 -0800, "ddog" wrote:

Can bend .064 - 6061 AL sheet metal piece around 22.3mm handlebar for
shim anchored w/JB Weld?


I actually don't think an AL sheet metal handlebar shim is a problem,
since many bars come with shims built-in anyway, and some get loose
but are still usable, but i wouldn't use JB weld in the interface.
You want a uniform thickness so that the clamp pressure is evenly
spread across the bar/stem interface, and once you use JB weld you
will have high spots and low spots, resulting in less friction. I
trust a roughed-up friction interface much more than I trust JB weld.

I were shimming a handlebar I'd get a nail or a rasp file and a hammer
and roughen up the shim all over to ensure a good "grip" on the
handlebar clamping area. Then I'd tighten the bars until they are
just barely movable under extreme force. If I couldn't get them
there, then I'd bag the shim idea and buy handlebars of the correct
size.

Based on some old 1970's magazine or book i once read, I tighten both
my bars and stem so that under very high forces either can be moved.
During a crash, this lets the bars "give" (so your thigh bones doesn't
have to, for example). I have ridden for days with bars not quite
perfectly tight, where the result of hard pedaling and pulling was for
the bars to "tilt" slightly. That's not harmful as long as you fix it
soon before you've stripped the grooves from your bars.

I have at times had the gall to ride no-handed and 'whack' the bars on
one side to get them aligned straight ahead ( too lazy to stop the
bike, clamp front wheel with legs, and straighten the bars myself -
don't try this at home, folks ... )

Anyway, the point being, it pays to know how tight a handlebar pinch
bolt should need be clamped - and no tighter! - and it pays to know
how easy it should be to move the bars at this tightness, and it also
pays to know how tight to tighten a stem, so as not to overdo it (as
this can damage a steerer tube on a 1" threaded steering column.)

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

dvt writes:

You're trying to shim 35 year old aluminum bars to fit in modern
equipment? It's probably time for new handlebars anyway. Aluminum
handlebars do wear out, and the failure mode can be ugly.

On the contrary, you can either use those 35 year old aluminum bars
every day for the next four decades, or you can upgrade to "modern"
bars which must be replaced every 2 years under all circumstances...
There is a world of difference and reliability between 350 gram 1970's
bars and today's stupid-light 210 gram handlebars.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA

Thanks Dave!

I'll take note of that. But just want to see where I'm at now.
The current handlebar setup is known and comfortable and I just want to
isolate the aerobar variables first.

But if I can make confirmed relationships of aerobar angles, it will
reduce the combination effects
of a completely new stem/bar arrangement that may reduce response
variables investigated by up to 10 fold.
The JB welded shims on bars will reenforce the bars at a structural
suspect postions, on either side of the stem.

I will be going to Campy rear derailleur soon, and am considering going
ergo while I'm at it.
Either way, when new brake levers go on, whether same stem or
threadless conversion, new bars will be there.
First things first, but I'll keep an eye on bar deflection now that you
pointed it out.

Thanks for the Safety Heads up!


On Jan 26, 3:42 pm, dvt wrote:
ddog wrote:

On Jan 26, 11:18 am, "Mike Jacoubowsky" wrote:
Now I'm really confused. Is it the aero bar that's 22.2?
My 1971 Raleigh has stock 40cm outside width 22.3cm dia AL bars.
My Profile Century bars has 26/31.8 plastic conversion shims going to
JB Weld in it.You're trying to shim 35 year old aluminum bars to fit in modern
equipment? It's probably time for new handlebars anyway. Aluminum
handlebars do wear out, and the failure mode can be ugly.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

On the contrary, you can either use those 35 year old aluminum bars
every day for the next four decades, or you can upgrade to "modern"
bars which must be replaced every 2 years under all circumstances...
There is a world of difference and reliability between 350 gram 1970's
bars and today's stupid-light 210 gram handlebars.


I've got one word for you.

Belleri.

If you think older bars are so much stronger than modern ones, trust me, I
have yet to see a modern bar, as commonly used as the Belleri, that was
anywhere near as likely to fail. There were others as well. Bar failure back
in the day was more common, not less, than it is today. The difference is
that it was nearly always on less-expensive bikes; no issue with higher-end
equipment that I can recall.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA