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question about tubulars
I'm new to tubulars and have a question about carrying a spare-is it
necessary to preglue the spare, and if so, how is it best to carry it? Or, can you put the spare on using the residual glue on the rim-would this allow you to continue with the ride/race, or are you pretty much done and have to limp back? Any pointers/opinions appreciated. |
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#2
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question about tubulars
"KV" wrote in message news:XJ9Ti.1478$od4.1249@trnddc04... I'm new to tubulars and have a question about carrying a spare-is it necessary to preglue the spare, and if so, how is it best to carry it? Or, can you put the spare on using the residual glue on the rim-would this allow you to continue with the ride/race, or are you pretty much done and have to limp back? Any pointers/opinions appreciated. You're better off with a preglued tubular but either way, take it easy in the turns and brake with the other wheel on the ride home. Phil H |
#3
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question about tubulars
KV wrote:
I'm new to tubulars and have a question about carrying a spare-is it necessary to preglue the spare, and if so, how is it best to carry it? Or, can you put the spare on using the residual glue on the rim-would this allow you to continue with the ride/race, or are you pretty much done and have to limp back? Any pointers/opinions appreciated. Pre-glue the spare. I always used a tire that had been ridden on already --- usually one that had flatted --- as my spare. If it is pre-glued it sticks pretty well. As you fold it up to carry it, first fold it in half and stick glue to glue. I would always then fold it to be about 6" long and stuff it in an old sock. We always continued the race after repairing a flat, unless it was hopeless, like it would be in a crit. Heck, you gotta get back to the start/finish anyway. Of course all this begs the question of why you would bother with tubulars this day and age, anyway. If you are near enough to the edge of the performance curve to see an advantage, make sure your team car carries spare wheels. -- David L. Johnson "Business!" cried the Ghost. "Mankind was my business. The common welfare was my business; charity, mercy, forbearance, and benevolence, were, all, my business. The dealings of my trade were but a drop of water in the comprehensive ocean of my business!" --Dickens, "A Christmas Carol" |
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question about tubulars
David L. Johnson wrote:
Of course all this begs the question of why you would bother with tubulars this day and age, anyway. If you are near enough to the edge of the performance curve to see an advantage, make sure your team car carries spare wheels. If glued on properly they won't roll off as clinchers do :-( |
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question about tubulars
Dan Gregory wrote:
David L. Johnson wrote: Of course all this begs the question of why you would bother with tubulars this day and age, anyway. If you are near enough to the edge of the performance curve to see an advantage, make sure your team car carries spare wheels. If glued on properly they won't roll off as clinchers do :-( The idea of tires rolling off is exclusively related to tubulars, not clinchers. I've used both, and have rolled two tubulars, zero clinchers. Why don't you trot out the other usual advantages proclaimed for tubulars: that you can ride with them flat (not high on my list of advantages -- with clinchers, you can repair the flat, instead), that they grip the road better (how is a matter of denial of physics), that they don't pinch flat (I donno, I've only gone 10 years riding clinchers with, let's see, zero pinch flats). Look at ads for tubulars. The big selling points are that they are "round and straight" --- meaning that many tubulars are neither, and that you should buy this brand in order to get what most people take for granted with clinchers. I used to ride wonderful tubular tires, Clement Campionato del Mundo (sp?), or Criterium Setas. Clinchers, then, were just awful. Now, very nice, light, supple clinchers are $30, and a halfway-round tubular costs twice that. Sorry, unless you've got that team car following you, I just don't see the advantages. -- David L. Johnson |
#6
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question about tubulars
"David L. Johnson" wrote in message
... Dan Gregory wrote: David L. Johnson wrote: Of course all this begs the question of why you would bother with tubulars this day and age, anyway. If you are near enough to the edge of the performance curve to see an advantage, make sure your team car carries spare wheels. If glued on properly they won't roll off as clinchers do :-( The idea of tires rolling off is exclusively related to tubulars, not clinchers. I've used both, and have rolled two tubulars, zero clinchers. Why don't you trot out the other usual advantages proclaimed for tubulars: that you can ride with them flat (not high on my list of advantages -- with clinchers, you can repair the flat, instead), that they grip the road better (how is a matter of denial of physics), that they don't pinch flat (I donno, I've only gone 10 years riding clinchers with, let's see, zero pinch flats). Look at ads for tubulars. The big selling points are that they are "round and straight" --- meaning that many tubulars are neither, and that you should buy this brand in order to get what most people take for granted with clinchers. I used to ride wonderful tubular tires, Clement Campionato del Mundo (sp?), or Criterium Setas. Clinchers, then, were just awful. Now, very nice, light, supple clinchers are $30, and a halfway-round tubular costs twice that. Sorry, unless you've got that team car following you, I just don't see the advantages. I'll second Dave's comments. Though I've had plenty of pinch flats on clinchers I'll also note that one of the reasons that you didn't pinch flat on Clement tubulars was because they put a skirt over the sewing thread. I have gotten quite a few pinch flats on Continental tubulars that are missing that expensive detail. Continental believes that you don't get pinch flats if you pump the pressure high enough. That's probably so but if you ride on the street with 160+ psi the ride on the tubular is no better than with a clincher. As for ride - a 95 psi tubular rides very nicely indeed and feels considerably better than a clincher at any pressure. That doesn't, however, translate to faster times, better cornering or longer wear. In other words, aside from the feel there are only slight advantages to tubulars and tons of disadvantages: 1) They are really expensive and a couple of spare tubulars are heavier and take up more room than a couple of spare innertubes. 2) Finding good tubulars is a problem though not as bad as it used to be before the advent of the internet. 3) Unless you really know how to sew them back up after a repair, there will be a hard spot in the tire that feels like a lump. And the tire won't corner as well because of that. 4) Repairs of a sewup is a time consuming pain in the butt that no one in their right mind would take on. Racing teams want the feel of tubulars because they do ride smoother and that might translate into less fatigue in a long race. But they also toss out tubulars that have flatted - they don't take chances with a repair. The fact is that you can race better on $30 Michelin tires than you can on $100 Clements. |
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question about tubulars
Tom Kunich wrote:
1) They are really expensive and a couple of spare tubulars are heavier and take up more room than a couple of spare innertubes. Tubulars are generally race wheels, where you don't carry spares. 2) Finding good tubulars is a problem though not as bad as it used to be before the advent of the internet. Not a problem, at all, with the internet. 3) Unless you really know how to sew them back up after a repair, there will be a hard spot in the tire that feels like a lump. And the tire won't corner as well because of that. 4) Repairs of a sewup is a time consuming pain in the butt that no one in their right mind would take on. Racing teams want the feel of tubulars because they do ride smoother and that might translate into less fatigue in a long race. But they also toss out tubulars that have flatted - they don't take chances with a repair. Generally, tubulars are restricted to race wheels, so the expense of replacing tires is considered acceptable. The fact is that you can race better on $30 Michelin tires than you can on $100 Clements. Personally, the best riding clinchers I've tried are Vittoria Open Corsa Evo CX. But the #1 argument for clinchers is, when paired with latex tubes, they have lower rolling resistance: http://www.biketechreview.com/tires/AFM_tire_crr.htm The Vittoria's scored very well. This is a quantitative advantage which is hard to argue against. Given this, why did I just get some Reynolds tubular wheels? They were much lighter than the clincher version, but hardly worth the difference in rolling resistance. I did buy Veloflex Carbon tubulars, which scored lowest for 20mm tubulars in the Tour rolling resistance test (different test data), but still, significantly more RR than the Open Corsa's. I suppose I succumbed to the usual arguments, and the lower weight. Dan |
#8
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question about tubulars
In article ,
Dan Connelly wrote: This is a quantitative advantage which is hard to argue against. Given this, why did I just get some Reynolds tubular wheels? They were much lighter than the clincher version, but hardly worth the difference in rolling resistance. I tried a set of the clincher version for a couple of weeks last year. Yeah, they weigh more than the tubular version but they're still pretty damn light. They felt a lot better than the Ksyriums. Certainly better on hilly rides. -- tanx, Howard Faberge eggs are elegant but I prefer Faberge bacon. remove YOUR SHOES to reply, ok? |
#9
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question about tubulars
On Oct 22, 4:45 pm, "KV" wrote:
I'm new to tubulars and have a question about carrying a spare-is it necessary to preglue the spare, and if so, how is it best to carry it? Yes and just fold it up. I am sure there is a diagram somewhere..hold end of tubies, turn each siude 90 degrees and fold..hard to describe, easy if you see it..then secure with as toe strap under your saddle. Or, can you put the spare on using the residual glue on the rim-would this allow you to continue with the ride/race, or are you pretty much done and have to limp back? Any pointers/opinions appreciated. Prelube the spare and after you put it on and pump up..ride but be careful about high speed corners..not as safe as a well glued one. |
#10
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question about tubulars
On Oct 22, 6:47 pm, "David L. Johnson"
wrote: KV wrote: I'm new to tubulars and have a question about carrying a spare-is it necessary to preglue the spare, and if so, how is it best to carry it? Or, can you put the spare on using the residual glue on the rim-would this allow you to continue with the ride/race, or are you pretty much done and have to limp back? Any pointers/opinions appreciated. Pre-glue the spare. I always used a tire that had been ridden on already --- usually one that had flatted --- as my spare. If it is pre-glued it sticks pretty well. As you fold it up to carry it, first fold it in half and stick glue to glue. I would always then fold it to be about 6" long and stuff it in an old sock. We always continued the race after repairing a flat, unless it was hopeless, like it would be in a crit. Heck, you gotta get back to the start/finish anyway. Of course all this begs the question of why you would bother with tubulars this day and age, anyway. If you are near enough to the edge of the performance curve to see an advantage, make sure your team car carries spare wheels. -- David L. Johnson Here we go..must be winter-safer, more comfy ride, wee bit less weight, corner better...but if ya don't like 'em, don't use them. I see no compelling reason to change my tubies to clinchers, but YMMV..LOTS of tubie choices these days, LOTS of rims as well... |
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