Campy ergopower autoshift problem

I have a 92 Merlin road frame that I just had my LBS upgrade to Campy
10 speed drivetrain from my old downtube shifters. All new components,
including cassette. Now if I am in a large rear cog, say 19 and stand
and stomp on the pedals to climb, the bike shifts down to the next
smallest cog, say 18. I have taken it back to the shop and they just
tighten the cables, but still the same problem. I have tightened the
barrel adjuster slightly and it helps, but hasn't stopped the problem.
I have also lubed the cable guide on the BB, but still it will auto
shift.
Any ideas out there?

Flex in the chain stays?

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a 92 Merlin road frame that I just had my LBS upgrade to Campy
10 speed drivetrain from my old downtube shifters. All new components,
including cassette. Now if I am in a large rear cog, say 19 and stand
and stomp on the pedals to climb, the bike shifts down to the next
smallest cog, say 18. I have taken it back to the shop and they just
tighten the cables, but still the same problem. I have tightened the
barrel adjuster slightly and it helps, but hasn't stopped the problem.
I have also lubed the cable guide on the BB, but still it will auto
shift.
Any ideas out there?

I have a 92 Merlin road frame that I just had my LBS upgrade to Campy 10
speed drivetrain from my old downtube shifters. All new components,
including cassette. Now if I am in a large rear cog, say 19 and stand
and stomp on the pedals to climb, the bike shifts down to the next
smallest cog, say 18. I have taken it back to the shop and they just
tighten the cables, but still the same problem. I have tightened the
barrel adjuster slightly and it helps, but hasn't stopped the problem. I
have also lubed the cable guide on the BB, but still it will auto shift.
Any ideas out there?
---------------------------------------------------------------
Hi, I figure it has to be one of three things.
1. A bum cable, and attachment to the Ergo lever. (It's important that
cable routing is smooth, and has adequate housing) I myself used new
Campy Cables, as other cable's end stops I've seen don't properly fit
into the Ergo Lever. The Ergo has a very small hole to accept the end
stop/knob, and other ordinary run of the mill LBS cables don't properly
seat into the Ergo. Cable Ends need to be absolutely clean, flat, and
the use of Cable End Ferrules where needed is also essential, and
important.

2. A binding, or stiff Rear Derailleur (This can be checked by removing
the cable at the RD, and actuating the derailleur manually by hand
toward the wheel to see if there's any binding, or undue stiffness)
It's unlikely to be this, but you should check it anyway. Lube every
pivot point on the RD.

3. Last, but not least, a bad right Ergo Shifter that's not maintaining
it's setting, and is letting go. See if you can have this happen again,
and while you're standing on it (Be careful though), perhaps keep your
hands on the hoods, to feel if anything is going awry at the shifter.

The LBS, perhaps doesn't have too much knowledge of Campy (Which it
seems most lately don't, and all they sell and know is Shimano, Shimano,
Shimano) They would've been able to determine the problem in about 45
seconds tops)
From your words though, I get the impression that all is fine in the
shop. It's only when you're on the road when this occurs. The
Mechanic-LBS Owner needs to get on your bike, and test ride it. Mark

wrote:
I have a 92 Merlin road frame that I just had my LBS upgrade to Campy
10 speed drivetrain from my old downtube shifters. All new components,
including cassette. Now if I am in a large rear cog, say 19 and stand
and stomp on the pedals to climb, the bike shifts down to the next
smallest cog, say 18. I have taken it back to the shop and they just
tighten the cables, but still the same problem. I have tightened the
barrel adjuster slightly and it helps, but hasn't stopped the problem.
I have also lubed the cable guide on the BB, but still it will auto
shift.
Any ideas out there?

1. make sure all your cable outers are cut flat & square.
2. make sure your derailleur hanger is exactly planar with the wheel

if it's still autoshifting after that, you either have a frame problem
[unlikely], the shifter mechanism is defective or it's just plain not
adjusted right.

oh, and it's worth checking the cable mounting on the derailleur. a
friend was having similar problems and it turned out to be that his lbs
had routed the cable on the inside edge of the pinch bolt, not the
outside. this caused an incorrect pull ratio so the derailleur was
never positioned exactly right for anything but the smallest ratio.

I am wondering if it could be a bad Ergopower shifter, although it is a
brand new Centaur. Sometimes the chain skips a cog when I shift( to a
larger cog), or it will shift to another cog without moving the lever
far enough to hear it click. Is that normal ? I always had downtube
shifters so I do not know.

On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 17:11:07 -0700, jim beam wrote:

oh, and it's worth checking the cable mounting on the derailleur. a
friend was having similar problems and it turned out to be that his lbs
had routed the cable on the inside edge of the pinch bolt, not the
outside. this caused an incorrect pull ratio so the derailleur was
never positioned exactly right for anything but the smallest ratio.

This would be my suggestion as well.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | Become MicroSoft-free forever. Ask me how.
_`\(,_ |
(_)/ (_) |

On Sat, 11 Jun 2005 18:02:25 -0600, Mark D wrote:

3. Last, but not least, a bad right Ergo Shifter that's not maintaining
it's setting, and is letting go. See if you can have this happen again,
and while you're standing on it (Be careful though), perhaps keep your
hands on the hoods, to feel if anything is going awry at the shifter.

If this is it, you should be able to feel the click in the shifter just
before it auto-shifts. That, for me, was a problem with a worn-out
g-spring, which should not be the case with a new set of components. But
maybe it is defective.

--

David L. Johnson

__o | A mathematician is a machine for turning coffee into theorems.
_`\(,_ | -- Paul Erdos
(_)/ (_) |

wrote:
I have a 92 Merlin road frame that I just had my LBS upgrade to Campy
10 speed drivetrain from my old downtube shifters. All new components,
including cassette. Now if I am in a large rear cog, say 19 and stand
and stomp on the pedals to climb, the bike shifts down to the next
smallest cog, say 18. I have taken it back to the shop and they just
tighten the cables, but still the same problem. I have tightened the
barrel adjuster slightly and it helps, but hasn't stopped the problem.
I have also lubed the cable guide on the BB, but still it will auto
shift.
Any ideas out there?

Sounds like poor setup to me. Poor rear der adjust.

Couple of questions...new levers? I assume, Hopefully they didn't break
the post on the EC-RE-111, spring carrier when they tightened the
levers onto the hbar-a possibility.

Also, what handlebars? The older Cinelli hbars have a bend that if the
levers are too high, can push on the back cap, jamming the shift
innards, which will make the rear der impossible to adjust.

wrote:
I am wondering if it could be a bad Ergopower shifter, although it is a
brand new Centaur. Sometimes the chain skips a cog when I shift( to a
larger cog), or it will shift to another cog without moving the lever
far enough to hear it click. Is that normal ? I always had downtube
shifters so I do not know.

Cable attach to the rear der is something I suspect also. Needs to be
UNDER the plate, not thru it.

Sheldon Brown has an article on autoshifting on his website:

http://sheldonbrown.com/autoshift.html

Maybe it will help...