V-brake balancing screws.

"James" wrote in message
...
On 02/04/15 06:26, Ian Field wrote:

"James" wrote in message
...
On 02/04/15 03:00, Ian Field wrote:

"John B. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 05:24:45 +1000, James
wrote:

On 31/03/15 01:47, Frank Krygowski wrote:


I'm in the "almost any tool should do it" camp. Same as the guys
who
put in the slotted philips screw heads.

It occurs to me, I've never carried a Torx driver in my tool
pouches.
I'd be ticked off if _anything_ on my bike absolutely required one.


So many parts already absolutely require hex keys, I don't know how
you're not already ticked off!

But only a few sizes. For the bikes I own it requires 6 allen wrenches

AFAICR: most maintenance on mine needs only one size allen key - if I
do
any serious striping down, I might need maybe 2 or 3.


10, 8, 6, 5, 4 & 3 I think. Maybe 2.5 somewhere. Plus a torx bit for
the ergo lever clamp bolt, IIRC, and screw driver for the derailleur
adjustment.

Then you need a spoke key, chain whip, cassette tool and long wrench.
A special tool for the BB cups is handy, and that just about covers it.

We were talking about how many allen keys, I carry a chain punch in the
toolkit and a 15mm wrench ground thinner to fit pedal flats.

Yep, I was noting the different sized allen keys (in mm) I would need to
strip down my bike. My pedals can be removed/installed with an allen key.

For the toolkit I carry, I draw the line at tools for working on things like
bottom bracket and headrace.

I've seen bottom bracket bearing failure - it makes hard work of pedalling,
but you can usually grind your way home. The need to service the steering
bearing usually becomes apparent over a period of time. Its extremely rare
for a steering ball-bearing to break and cause random jamming.

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 21:26:19 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:

If there's any Torx heads, I haven't found them yet.

Torx (hexolobular) fasteners are everywhe

DT spokes:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400895159812

Disk brake mounting bolts:
How To Use Torx Tool - Disk Brake Removal Bicycle Repair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wZJzW3QBlA

Security screws:
http://www.bicyclebolts.com/products...st-binder-bolt
http://www.bicyclebolts.com/collections/security-allen-bolts
(bottom of page)

Chain rings:
http://dnacycles.com/product/race-face-torx-chainring-bolt-nut-pack-triple-ring-222176-1.htm

Stems:
http://zipp.com/stems/service-course-sl-stem/

Why Torx fasteners are becoming more common on bicycles:
http://pedros.com/faqs/why-are-torx-fasteners-becoming-more-common-on-bicycles/

The bike I'm using doesn't have any, neither does my spare.

There's Torx bits in my toolkit for the 1/4" drive socket adaptor. meanwhile
I can bide my time for a folding tool with Torx to be on special offer.

"John B. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 18:00:08 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:


"John B. Slocomb" wrote in message
. ..
On Tue, 31 Mar 2015 05:24:45 +1000, James
wrote:

On 31/03/15 01:47, Frank Krygowski wrote:


I'm in the "almost any tool should do it" camp. Same as the guys who
put in the slotted philips screw heads.

It occurs to me, I've never carried a Torx driver in my tool pouches.
I'd be ticked off if _anything_ on my bike absolutely required one.


So many parts already absolutely require hex keys, I don't know how
you're not already ticked off!

But only a few sizes. For the bikes I own it requires 6 allen wrenches

AFAICR: most maintenance on mine needs only one size allen key - if I do
any
serious striping down, I might need maybe 2 or 3.

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

"John B. Slocomb" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 1 Apr 2015 18:03:19 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:


"John B. Slocomb" wrote in message
. ..
On Mon, 30 Mar 2015 17:22:52 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote:


"Frank Krygowski" wrote in message
...
On 3/29/2015 6:11 PM, James wrote:
On 29/03/15 21:46, Lou Holtman wrote:


Stupid concept. Slotted headscrews are or should be extinct for
decades.
Why keep them alive. I would not mind if they would use torx screws
for all
the fasteners on a bike.


I agree. I carry a multi tool for road side repairs. To be useful
it
has to have bits appropriate for multiple styles of fastener head.
All
of one kind would make bike maintenance much simpler. I'd be happy
with
Torx bits.

Well, you'd be happy until the day you realized you you needed to make
an
adjustment and you'd left your Torx tool on your workbench. Your
pocketknife won't work with a Torx screw.

Can we compromise? A Torx head with a slot for emergency non-Torx
use?
Remember, it's just an adjustment screw.

It was the Philips head with a slot for emergency non-Philips that
caused
all the aggravation in the first place.

As yet I haven't seen any multi-tools with Torx bits, they would
probably
start to appear on the market if cycle manufacturers started using them.

A regular Torx driver (with a handle like a screwdriver) would tend to
poke
holes in the tool pouch - the socket set style Torx bits would be OK,
but
they sort of wobble a bit for turning adjustment screws.

Nope. They make those little folding sets with torx bits. I bought one
by mistake :-)

I could do with buying one by mistake - I could put it in a draw till I
actually need it, and the price has gone sky high.

Maybe:
http://www.amazon.com/Var-Folding-To.../dp/B004YJ3834
or
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tools-Fol.../dp/B00RCOS7M0

As for price, I am continually amazed at the prices I see quoted. The
same tool that Amazon sells for $26 costs me abut $10 here.

A local supermarket has a bicycle section.

Their prices seem to go up and down very randomly - in the past I've paid
over £3 for a pair of brake blocks, last time I bought a couple of packs
they'd dropped to £1.50 - last time I looked they'd gone back up to £2.

If/when they start stocking a folding Torx tool - I'll watch the price
fluctuation till it hits a low.

AMuzi wrote:
:On 3/30/2015 10:47 AM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
: On 3/30/2015 8:56 AM, Ralph Barone wrote:
: Frank Krygowski wrote:
: On 3/29/2015 6:11 PM, James wrote:
: On 29/03/15 21:46, Lou Holtman wrote:
:
:
: Stupid concept. Slotted headscrews are or should be
: extinct for decades.
: Why keep them alive. I would not mind if they would use
: torx screws
: for all
: the fasteners on a bike.
:
:
: I agree. I carry a multi tool for road side repairs.
: To be useful it
: has to have bits appropriate for multiple styles of
: fastener head. All
: of one kind would make bike maintenance much simpler.
: I'd be happy with
: Torx bits.
:
: Well, you'd be happy until the day you realized you you
: needed to make an
: adjustment and you'd left your Torx tool on your
: workbench. Your
: pocketknife won't work with a Torx screw.
:
: Can we compromise? A Torx head with a slot for emergency
: non-Torx use?
: Remember, it's just an adjustment screw.
:
:
: Hold on a second Frank. Didn't you just say in a nearby post?
:
: More seriously, brakes don't have to be adjusted very often.
: It's reasonable to require a tool for that operation.
:
: So where do you sit on this? :-)
:
: I'm in the "almost any tool should do it" camp. Same as the
: guys who put in the slotted philips screw heads.
:
: It occurs to me, I've never carried a Torx driver in my tool
: pouches. I'd be ticked off if _anything_ on my bike
: absolutely required one.
:

oesn't affect you, but some relatively inexpensive folding
:tools now include the disc brake Torx driver.

:We sell them, but I can't imagine a use for it while on a
:ride. Despite seeing a great number of equipment failures
rust, crash, user error, all of it) over a great many
:years, I have never seen a brake disc come loose from a hub.

The t25 is also used to turn the adjusters on the very common BB7, and
maybe others. I've certainly used the one in my multi tool for that
purpose.


--
sig 63

On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the road.

My worst on-road failure was on an 80 mile super-hilly ride, where
almost everyone else was using a granny gear to make it up the hills.
My shifter cable snapped at the bar-end shifter, and I learned that the
spare cable I carried was too short to reach the derailleur. It turned
out to be surprisingly difficult to knot two cables together to make a
longer one!

--
- Frank Krygowski

"Frank Krygowski" wrote in message
...
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Realistically then, for my bike I only need carry 2 sizes of allen key - one
does both brake block nuts and calliper pivot bolts, and one larger key for
seat post and saddle clamp.

In practice, I bought a set of ball-end allen keys in a hinged plastic
holder - the 3 biggest keys are bigger than I've ever used for anything, so
I unclipped that side of the holder and stored it, the side with all the
smaller keys went into the tool pouch - there's at least one size smaller
than any fitting on the bike and one key too big to fit anything.

The folding tool that I keep in my pocket has flat & Philips plus about 5 or
6 allen keys - If I have to break out the tool pouch, its a serious repair.

Some of the tools I carry, it pretty much depends how far from home I am
whether I seriously contemplate actually using them.

On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 3:10:58 PM UTC-4, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/1/2015 5:44 AM, John B. Slocomb wrote:


If, in your example, you do not know how to use a quick release skewer
then I cannot logically understand how it can possibly be the bicycle
maker's responsibility if your wheel falls off.

Wow. You need to return to America for a refresher course in liability!

I'm sure Jay can explain it all. But I think the rule is, in America,
anyone can be sued for anything. The only possible exception is a
motorist who hits a bicyclist. :-(

--
- Frank Krygowski

the plaintiff needs prove damages

do you know the famous English train case ?

On 02/04/2015 20:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road.

No BB tool here either - they don't fail that seriously. Headset tools
are a lot easier these days given that they use normal allen keys to fit.

I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the road.

The chain tool is the one I've probably used the most. I carry several
quick links too. But this is on a tandem with low gears which gets
pedalled up hills.

My worst on-road failure was on an 80 mile super-hilly ride, where
almost everyone else was using a granny gear to make it up the hills. My
shifter cable snapped at the bar-end shifter, and I learned that the
spare cable I carried was too short to reach the derailleur. It turned
out to be surprisingly difficult to knot two cables together to make a
longer one!

The worst failure has been freehubs freewheeling both ways - shimano,
DT, WI have all done it. See comment above about the load.

With the DT hub once I knew about that failure mode I was a lot better
about greasing the ratchets, even doing it over lunch mid-ride once. I
also carried a spare pair. With the WI hub, the pawls all snapped, and
they are field replacable, so theoretically I carry spares.
(theoretically - they're very small and I've lost them :-) ). And I
don't touch shimano hubs on tandems any more.