V-brake balancing screws.

On 4/4/2015 1:15 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Thursday, April 2, 2015 at 12:53:32 PM UTC-7, Frank Krygowski wrote:


My worst on-road failure was on an 80 mile super-hilly ride, where
almost everyone else was using a granny gear to make it up the hills.
My shifter cable snapped at the bar-end shifter, and I learned that the
spare cable I carried was too short to reach the derailleur. It turned
out to be surprisingly difficult to knot two cables together to make a
longer one!

On my first long-ish tour (SF to Vancouver Island BC), I was riding my first custom bike -- a sport tourer with pretenses of being a racing bike. I wanted it to be light, so I bought an Everest superlight chain and ER Pedals (Ti). One pedals broke while riding through Coos Bay Oregon, and I woke up a shop owner to sell me another pair. The chain broke near Raymond Washington, and I patched it back together on the road and then bought a replacement at a Coast to Coast store -- back when all road chains were the same.

I was on a tour in the Sierra and broke a bolt in an Avocet seat post and found a replacement at a tiny lake resort near the top of Carson Pass -- a guy had some spare outboard motor parts, and I found a bolt that worked well enough to get me home. Riding across the US, I had one pedal that clicked like crazy. I opened it up and found that there was no keyed washer between the locknut and the cone. In fact, there was no keyway in the axle -- so I filed one and got the proper washer from a shop in Missoula Montana -- from Sam Braxton. http://www.classicrendezvous.com/USA/Braxton.htm I've had all sorts of things go wrong on tours, and the remarkable part was fixing it or finding someone to help, even in the middle of nowhere.

Well, although it wasn't my failure, one of my riding buddies had a
challenging failure when we were doing a tour across Ohio. It was Labor
Day, and absolutely everything was closed in remote western Ohio - not
that there was much on our remote western Ohio route that would have
ever been open.

Anyway, we were JRA when he said "Something's wrong" and began dropping
behind me. We heard weird clunking noises coming from his bike. turned
out his SunTour freewheel had somehow broken at the outboard end, and
was sprinking tiny ball bearings all over the asphalt. The body of the
freewheel was wobbling badly and the pawls were only sporadically
engaging. And this was Day 1 of our ride.

We picked up quite a few of the little ball bearings, but it was obvious
we'd never find enough of them - and how to repair the freewheel even if
we had? But the residents of the only house on that road happened to
come outside at that point, and we were soon in their garage/outbuilding
borrowing tools and puzzling over the problem.

They found some electrical wire with plastic insulation that was about
the same diameter as the bearing balls. We used the bearings we had to
fill the inner race, and the well-greased wire to fill the outer race. I
found that if we took out all the shims, the outer cone of the freewheel
could catch just enough threads to hold the mess together. The only
problem was it was no longer a freewheel. My friend now had a 15 speed
fixie.

So we pedaled on, something like another 50 miles that day with zero
coasting, and more the next day until we came to a shop that could sell
him a freewheel.

He was a tough old guy, about 20 years older than I was. I admired his
ability to crank out those non-coasting miles.


--
- Frank Krygowski

On Fri, 03 Apr 2015 22:13:45 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 4/3/2015 7:05 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:


However, wait until after Passover (starts tonite) for dispensing
psychoactive drugs. I don't think recereational or sales promotional
drugs are allowed during Pesach.

And speaking of Passover and technology:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baQfqoZrEvI

Very cool. Thanks.

Please note that there may be a connection between the ancient pyramid
builders and cycling. One of the topics of endless discussion is how
the pyramids were originally built. The most common suggestion is
that they built a huge ramp on one side and dragged the stones up the
ramp to the top. There are lots of problems with this idea[1][2], but
for the sake of this discussion, I'll assume that this was how it was
done.

Now, pretend you have this huge ramp and Pharaoh has his chariots. In
order to handle the weight of 2+ ton stones, the ramp has to be very
solid and smooth. How long will it be before someone lashes two
chariots together and tries the ultimate joy ride down the ramp? Could
the pyramid builders even resist the temptation? After the initial
learning curve and associated fatalities getting the chariots to run
in a straight line, I suspect someone quickly determined it would be
useful to have some way to steer it. Using two inline wheels instead
of four might make steering even easier. Assuming they survived the
ride, this could have been the real beginning of bicycling.

Bicycling really didn't work until the roads were suitable for the
relatively small diameter wheels. Roman roads were rock piles.
Mediaeval cobblestone roads were worse. Dirt roads where mostly wheel
ruts and mud. Large diameter wheels were needed. Only when proper
paving and drainage were introduced in the early 19th century was a
smaller wheel bicycle possible. In ancient Egypt, riding a bicycle
over sand also had its limitations, but with a pyramid ramp, there was
a compacted and flat ramp that would be perfect for the ultimate joy
ride. I don't see how it could NOT have happened this way.

Unfortunately, pyramid construction was limited to a few wealthy
pharaohs. Their amusement ride concession probably didn't generate
enough revenue to pay for its construction. So, downhill bicycle
chariot riding languished until it was revived in the 1970's.

You read it here first...

Chag Sameach (happy holiday).


[1] http://www.cheops-pyramide.ch/khufu-...-theories.html
[2] My favorite theory is that they molded the stones in place out of
concrete:
http://www.geopolymer.org/archaeology/pyramids


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

AE6KS

CERN ?

On Monday, April 6, 2015 at 12:45:11 AM UTC-4, wrote:
AE6KS

CERN ?

http://www.capitalotc.com/cern-team-...sunday/210482/

On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain breaker,
and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit for just
in case. I've been with others a few times when someone's chain has
broken, and I snapped a cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't
buy another cheap quick link, that is for sure.

--
JS

On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote:
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat
clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another
one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper
brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws
with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the
bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other
saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable
bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura
brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember
now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6,
M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had
occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be
reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your
bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten
anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or
headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the
road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a
mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and
ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can
fix on the road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a
chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to
add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a
few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a
cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another
cheap quick link, that is for sure.


I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have often
seen the wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's
indeed a recipe for trouble. There's a correct part for each
chain and while they look similar, they are not. Very small
dimensional differences matter greatly here.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

"James" wrote in message
...
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI
hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the
road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain breaker,
and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit for just in
case.

The chain breaker I carry seems to be able to press links back in again.

Its a fiddly job but one of the folding tools includes a spring wire hook to
hang the chain ends close together for working on it.

On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote:
On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote:
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat
clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another
one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper
brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws
with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the
bar end levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other
saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable
bosses. 2mm for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura
brakes, WI hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember
now. My toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6,
M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had
occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be
reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your
bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten
anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or
headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the
road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a
mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and
ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can
fix on the road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a
chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to
add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a
few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a
cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another
cheap quick link, that is for sure.


I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have often seen the
wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed a recipe for
trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while they look
similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences matter greatly
here.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349

Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain.
--
JS

On 08/04/15 02:50, Ian Field wrote:

"James" wrote in message
...
On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:

Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat clamp and the seat
post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another one, the
Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper brakes yet another
one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws with a "brazier"
head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.

Well aren't you lucky.

8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the bar end
levers.
5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other saddle. 3mm for
SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable bosses. 2mm
for
brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura brakes, WI
hub).

I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember now. My
toolkit
should have it in.

There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6, M5).

Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had occasion to use this
on a ride...).

Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
Flat to adjust the bar end levers.

And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be reading: Yes,
it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your bike, and to
make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten anything that
might reasonably come loose.

Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or headset tools
for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the road. I don't
carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a mountain bike
ride. (I wired the chain ends together and ratchet-pedaled my way home
- fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can fix on the
road.



For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a chain
breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to add to a tool kit
for just in case.

The chain breaker I carry seems to be able to press links back in again.

Its a fiddly job but one of the folding tools includes a spring wire
hook to hang the chain ends close together for working on it.

Yes, I'm sure on a wide chain I could push pins in and out with my multi
tool chain breaker, however a quick link is a better repair solution for
narrow chains where it is not recommended to rejoin the chain by pushing
a pin back in.

--
JS

James wrote:
:On 07/04/15 23:06, AMuzi wrote:
: On 4/6/2015 8:28 PM, James wrote:
: On 03/04/15 05:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
: On 4/2/2015 3:22 PM, Clive George wrote:
: On 02/04/2015 18:50, Ian Field wrote:
:
: Well, let's see. The seat post takes two, the seat
: clamp and the seat
: post clamp on the frame, the fender braces take another
: one, the
: Shimano pedal adjustment another one, the caliper
: brakes yet another
: one, so that is five and as I have some M5-.8 screws
: with a "brazier"
: head that take a smaller key normal, that is six.
:
: Well aren't you lucky.
:
: 8mm for cranks. 6mm for stem, one of the saddles and the
: bar end levers.
: 5mm for gear cables, the stem bolt and brake levers. 4mm for
: rack/mudguard bolts, some bottle bosses and the other
: saddle. 3mm for
: SPD adjustment, the other bottles and the downtube cable
: bosses. 2mm for
: brake lever adjustment and rear axle grub screws (magura
: brakes, WI hub).
:
: I think I did find a 2.5mm somewhere, but can't remember
: now. My toolkit
: should have it in.
:
: There's a couple of 10mm and 8mm hex head bolts too (M6,
: M5).
:
: Adjustable spanner for the crank tool. (I have had
: occasion to use this
: on a ride...).
:
: Pozi for the klick-fix bracket.
: Flat to adjust the bar end levers.
:
: And to state it explicitly for any new riders that may be
: reading: Yes,
: it's a very good idea to survey all the fasteners on your
: bike, and to
: make sure you have a tool in your pack that can tighten
: anything that
: might reasonably come loose.
:
: Even on bike tours, I don't carry bottom bracket tools or
: headset tools
: for my (now vintage) bikes, and never needed one on the
: road. I don't
: carry a chain tool, although I did break a chain once on a
: mountain bike
: ride. (I wired the chain ends together and
: ratchet-pedaled my way home
: - fortunately not far.) But everything else, I think I can
: fix on the road.
:
:
:
: For on the road chain repairs, various multi tools have a
: chain breaker, and a quick link is very small and light to
: add to a tool kit for just in case. I've been with others a
: few times when someone's chain has broken, and I snapped a
: cheap quick link myself. **** happens. I won't buy another
: cheap quick link, that is for sure.
:
:
: I can't say I've seen a deficient snaplink but I have often seen the
: wrong spec snaplink installed by a rider and that's indeed a recipe for
: trouble. There's a correct part for each chain and while they look
: similar, they are not. Very small dimensional differences matter greatly
: here.
:

:https://www.flickr.com/photos/551026...n/photostream/

:http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/a...s/rp-prod56349

:Pretty certain I was using a 10s quick link on a 10s chain.

Not all 10s quick links are for all 10s chains. I'm prettys sure
that's true for 9s, but I do n't know about 8. I'm sure Andrew
does...

--
sig 20