Fitting the Bendix "kick-back" to 110mm dropout spacing:

The Bendix kick-back isn't for sissies. It's kind of the Harley
Davidson of bicycling, IMO. It's big, noisy, heavy, and it's a power
hog. It comes from a time when real *men* rode bicycles... and black
spandex panties were strictly for faggots. *MEN*, I tell you... oh,
don't start...

OK, if you have one and want to fit it to 110mm (standard BMX) dropout
spacing, don't force it! A kick-back is, in original form, about a cm
too big, so don't screw up your frame.

Ref: http://www.bunchobikes.com/auto.htm

First, the brake arm lock nut (part BB15) can be dropped in a zip lock
and saved for later; you don't need it when the hub is on the bike.
This will get you 2mm... 8mm to go!

Now you gotta go into the machine shop and fire up the lathe. I chose
to hit eBay and buy a new "Adjusting Cone Sun Gear"; they're out
there; mine cost five bucks and shipping. (Heck, you probably spent
30 bucks for a tiny little indexing spring!) Chuck up on the gear
cogs and take a facing tool to the outbord end. There's a groove for
the retainer ring that holds the dust cap on... cut right to the
bottom of that; yes... cut away the groove! That'll give you right at
8mm... maybe not quite, but real close.

There will be about a 1mm void where the cone lock nut used to go; I
cut a neoprene washer about .01" oversize to fit there. I suppose
epoxy would also have worked. Now, you no longer have a cone lock.
If you think about it, this part only locks the cone when it is *off*
of the bicycle! Besides, this is why God, in His wisdom, gave us
Locktight.

BTW, you now have lots of axle hanging outside of the dropout. I
trimmed mine back; however, the BMX crowd likes that. Strange lot,
they are!

Jones

On Aug 17, 8:30 pm, !Jones wrote:
The Bendix kick-back isn't for sissies. It's kind of the Harley
Davidson of bicycling, IMO. It's big, noisy, heavy, and it's a power
hog. It comes from a time when real *men* rode bicycles... and black
spandex panties were strictly for faggots. *MEN*, I tell you... oh,
don't start...

My granny was no faggot, I'll have you know. I used to borrow her
Bendix equipped bike all the time when I was a wee one. It's a great
hub. Hers was on a very fancy bike that was sorta futuristic for its
time--it had aluminum handlebars, but with wooden grips! Grant
Peterson would tear up at the sight of it.


OK, if you have one and want to fit it to 110mm (standard BMX) dropout
spacing, don't force it! A kick-back is, in original form, about a cm
too big, so don't screw up your frame.

Ref:http://www.bunchobikes.com/auto.htm

First, the brake arm lock nut (part BB15) can be dropped in a zip lock
and saved for later; you don't need it when the hub is on the bike.
This will get you 2mm... 8mm to go!

Now you gotta go into the machine shop and fire up the lathe. I chose
to hit eBay and buy a new "Adjusting Cone Sun Gear"; they're out
there; mine cost five bucks and shipping. (Heck, you probably spent
30 bucks for a tiny little indexing spring!) Chuck up on the gear
cogs and take a facing tool to the outbord end. There's a groove for
the retainer ring that holds the dust cap on... cut right to the
bottom of that; yes... cut away the groove! That'll give you right at
8mm... maybe not quite, but real close.

There will be about a 1mm void where the cone lock nut used to go; I
cut a neoprene washer about .01" oversize to fit there. I suppose
epoxy would also have worked. Now, you no longer have a cone lock.
If you think about it, this part only locks the cone when it is *off*
of the bicycle! Besides, this is why God, in His wisdom, gave us
Locktight.

BTW, you now have lots of axle hanging outside of the dropout. I
trimmed mine back; however, the BMX crowd likes that. Strange lot,
they are!

Much too complicated for my tastes. I've have just taken a 2x4 to the
frame and aligned the drops with a massive crescent wrench. I do
admire your ingenuity. Pics?

On Sat, 18 Aug 2007 02:25:16 -0000, in rec.bicycles.tech landotter
wrote:

Much too complicated for my tastes. I've have just taken a 2x4 to the
frame and aligned the drops with a massive crescent wrench. I do
admire your ingenuity. Pics?

She's a Littlejohn Tandem that I've just begun. I've never messed
with a BMX, so this is gonna be a learning experience,

How come the BBs aren't threaded?

Never mind.

Jones

!Jones wrote:
The Bendix kick-back isn't for sissies. It's kind of the Harley
Davidson of bicycling, IMO. It's big, noisy, heavy, and it's a power
hog. It comes from a time when real *men* rode bicycles... and black
spandex panties were strictly for faggots. *MEN*, I tell you... oh,
don't start...

OK, if you have one and want to fit it to 110mm (standard BMX) dropout
spacing, don't force it! A kick-back is, in original form, about a cm
too big, so don't screw up your frame.

Ref: http://www.bunchobikes.com/auto.htm

First, the brake arm lock nut (part BB15) can be dropped in a zip lock
and saved for later; you don't need it when the hub is on the bike.
This will get you 2mm... 8mm to go!

Now you gotta go into the machine shop and fire up the lathe. I chose
to hit eBay and buy a new "Adjusting Cone Sun Gear"; they're out
there; mine cost five bucks and shipping. (Heck, you probably spent
30 bucks for a tiny little indexing spring!) Chuck up on the gear
cogs and take a facing tool to the outbord end. There's a groove for
the retainer ring that holds the dust cap on... cut right to the
bottom of that; yes... cut away the groove! That'll give you right at
8mm... maybe not quite, but real close.

There will be about a 1mm void where the cone lock nut used to go; I
cut a neoprene washer about .01" oversize to fit there. I suppose
epoxy would also have worked. Now, you no longer have a cone lock.
If you think about it, this part only locks the cone when it is *off*
of the bicycle! Besides, this is why God, in His wisdom, gave us
Locktight.

BTW, you now have lots of axle hanging outside of the dropout. I
trimmed mine back; however, the BMX crowd likes that. Strange lot,
they are!

Or just change the frame spacing as most riders do. Takes a few minutes.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Fri, 17 Aug 2007 23:25:29 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech A Muzi
wrote:

Or just change the frame spacing as most riders do. Takes a few minutes.

Oh, come on, man! Why do something the easy way when there's a more
complicated approach available?

'Cides... I want to keep the frame as cherry as possible.

Jones