Wanted: BB cup jam nuts (Attn: LBS retail sales)

"!Jones" a écrit:

I don't think I got the size right on the Wop thread, anyway.
Something is bothering me about that major diameter...

And the pitch. It's 36mm x 24tpi, my Kraut Mick friend.

Some Specialités TA bottom brackets use two lockrings:

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/bottombrackets.asp

You may be able to order them as spare parts.

James Thomson

On Oct 2, 1:01 pm, !Jones wrote:
On Oct 2, 12:33 pm, "Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"

wrote:

Think you are talking about BB lockrings like found on adjustable cup
BBs but the Phils I have installed have the cups all the way into the
BB shell, with little/no threads showing so you wouldn't be able to
screw on a lockring anywho-

Yup. If you glue the cups in with locktight, as one should, then
they're probably just cosmetic. My instalation caught enough thread
to hold 'em OK, but I have a fair amount of thread sticking out. The
bike is an antique and I mainly want it to look finished. I spoze I
can get on the lathe and make a set; however, if my time is worth
anything, it's generally easier simply to buy 'em. I have a Paramount
tandem with Phil BBs and it has lock rings... the Phil people acted
like they didn't know what I was talking about, though.

Jones

I think you are going to have a tough time finding a lockring for the
right side, since it is left threaded(if english)..the right side is
easy..any english adjustable cup lockring.

Plus, I have never used loctite for Phil cups..just grease and 2
tools.

On Oct 2, 6:04 pm, A Muzi wrote:

Maybe. Or your tandem BB is actually a Kajita or Suntour by Kajita which
was a common tandem piece in the 1980s and does have RH+LH lockrings.

Naa, the BBs are Phil; I'm sure of that. Maybe someone just added the
lockrings?

I'm over it!

Jones

On Oct 2, 6:13 pm, "James Thomson" wrote:
"!Jones" a écrit:

And the pitch. It's 36mm x 24tpi, my Kraut Mick friend.

Yeah, I thought 30mm wasn't right. Are you sure it's not a 1mm
thread? I mean, 1/24" is fairly close to a mimaleeter, as I recall...
hey! I don't have one (Praise the Lord!!!), so it isn't exactly the
burning issue of my life, but why would an otherwise perfectly
competent people (who gave the world pasta) call out a major in metric
then go to inches for the thread count? Why, I'd sooner mix my
metaphors than my units of distance.

Jones

On Oct 3, 7:29 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com"
wrote:

Plus, I have never used loctite for Phil cups..just grease and 2
tools.

I usually read the directions, but only after I have screwed it up
twice... Phil's say to use the the locktite; they even provide a
little tube of "Phil approved" glue. I wonder if you can "sniff" it
if I don't need it for the cups?

Jones... who once, as a kid, tried to sniff Elmer's glue. (heard it
was "kicks", but I got it all over me face!)

On Oct 2, 2:11 pm, Hank Wirtz wrote:
On Oct 2, 12:36 pm, !Jones wrote:



On Oct 2, 10:56 am, Hank Wirtz wrote:

Once again, Peter Chisholm is right - Italian threading is far better,
because in this case, you could use two regular lockrings!

If you say so, then it must be right.

OTOH, the Wop threads have a 30 mm X 1 pitch, which isn't exactly what
I'd call "regular". A 1 3/16 X 24 lock ring will screw on if you
don't need a lot of torque; it'll be sloppy, though. (Yeah, I'll pick
a box of those up at my local hardware store, I will!) If I end up
cutting them, then it's six of one and half a dozen of the other. For
LH thread, you just reverse the spindle and turn the threading tool
over.

Sorry, that's something of a running gag...Peter will say that Italian
threads are the best because they're Italian, and Sheldon or Jobst or
somebody else will jump all over him for it. I'm not sure that he
actually feels that way.

Seehttp://tinyurl.com/yoqjz9

Of COURSE I feel that way..Italiano is a far superior threading
system....


tick, tick, tick...

"!Jones" a écrit:

Are you sure it's not a 1mm thread?

Yes. Italian bicycle threads often mix metric diameters with imperial pitch,
e.g. 35mm x 24tpi for Italian freewheels, 10mm x 26tpi and 9mm x 26tpi for
Campagnolo axles.

it isn't exactly the burning issue of my life, but why would an
otherwise perfectly competent people (who gave the world
pasta) call out a major in metric then go to inches for the
thread count?

I've read that there was a time when the Italians bought their lathes from
the British.

James Thomson

On Oct 2, 6:13 pm, "James Thomson" wrote:
"!Jones" a écrit:
And the pitch. It's 36mm x 24tpi, my Kraut Mick friend.

!Jones wrote:
Yeah, I thought 30mm wasn't right. Are you sure it's not a 1mm
thread? I mean, 1/24" is fairly close to a mimaleeter, as I recall...
hey! I don't have one (Praise the Lord!!!), so it isn't exactly the
burning issue of my life, but why would an otherwise perfectly
competent people (who gave the world pasta) call out a major in metric
then go to inches for the thread count? Why, I'd sooner mix my
metaphors than my units of distance.

Italian BB threads are 36mm x 24 tpi, 55 degree WW form.
After England invented industrialization, the Italians were right
behind, adopting metric diameters with Imperial pitch. Italian freewheel
thread is 35mm x 24tpi, also 55 degree WW form, headsets 25.4mm x 24tpi,
etc.
visual aids dep't:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/FWTHREAD.JPG

Swiss thread is perfectly logical. Which is why no one builds with it.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Oct 2, 12:36 pm, !Jones wrote:



On Oct 2, 10:56 am, Hank Wirtz wrote:
Once again, Peter Chisholm is right - Italian threading is far better,
because in this case, you could use two regular lockrings!
If you say so, then it must be right.
OTOH, the Wop threads have a 30 mm X 1 pitch, which isn't exactly what
I'd call "regular". A 1 3/16 X 24 lock ring will screw on if you
don't need a lot of torque; it'll be sloppy, though. (Yeah, I'll pick
a box of those up at my local hardware store, I will!) If I end up
cutting them, then it's six of one and half a dozen of the other. For
LH thread, you just reverse the spindle and turn the threading tool
over.

Hank Wirtz wrote:
Sorry, that's something of a running gag...Peter will say that Italian
threads are the best because they're Italian, and Sheldon or Jobst or
somebody else will jump all over him for it. I'm not sure that he
actually feels that way.
Seehttp://tinyurl.com/yoqjz9

Qui si parla Campagnolo-www.vecchios.com wrote:
Of COURSE I feel that way..Italiano is a far superior threading
system....
tick, tick, tick...

Sure! Italian thread form has, uh, historical significance? Romance?

Since our industry's thread forms are all archaic and pointless, may as
well be Genuine Italian as any other. Note the cold purposeful logic of
Swiss thread format. Abandoned by our industry of course.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Tue, 02 Oct 2007 12:21:19 -0700, in rec.bicycles.tech SMS
wrote:

Is this what you're looking for:
"http://harriscyclery.net/itemdetails.cfm?catalogId=39&ID=2294"?
or is it the wrong threading?

Yeah, that's half of what I had in mind. The other half had a left
thread... but, I'm convinced that it doesn't exist in our normal frame
of reference; therefore, I have cut a pair out of T6. All they do for
me is to hide the exposed threads, so... whatever that damn 'A' word
is, it works for me. "All-you-min-ee-yum" or something like that.

Maybe I'll make it outta magnesium next time. The main issue with
that stuff is that it burns easily and fiercely in a crash... and I'd
*hate* to go out in a blaze of glory!

Jones