almost frozen nipples on old wheel - typical solution

I have an older wheel that when I turn a nipple, I must turn it a lot
before the spoke frees itself and moves.

From what I could find using google search most people recommend
replacing the spokes and nipples. Why does one have to replace the
spokes?

On 10 Oct 2004 19:02:16 -0700,
(Woogoogle) wrote:

I have an older wheel that when I turn a nipple, I must turn it a lot
before the spoke frees itself and moves.

From what I could find using google search most people recommend
replacing the spokes and nipples. Why does one have to replace the
spokes?

Dear Suitor-to-Searcher,

At a guess, the problem is corrosion.

If both the nipple and spoke are corroded, then both of them
need replacement. Any corroded spot would be where things
would crack and fail.

Carl Fogel

On 10 Oct 2004 19:02:16 -0700,
(Woogoogle) wrote:

I have an older wheel that when I turn a nipple, I must turn it a lot
before the spoke frees itself and moves.

From what I could find using google search most people recommend
replacing the spokes and nipples. Why does one have to replace the
spokes?

Dear Suitor-to-Searcher,

At a guess, the problem is corrosion.

If both the nipple and spoke are corroded, then both of them
need replacement. Any corroded spot would be where things
would crack and fail.

Carl Fogel

Woogoogle wrote:

I have an older wheel that when I turn a nipple, I must turn it a lot
before the spoke frees itself and moves.

From what I could find using google search most people recommend
replacing the spokes and nipples. Why does one have to replace the
spokes?

Oh, but it does move though? Drop the tension, oil the
nipples and then bring it back up to tight/round/true and
all will be well. If you have to cut out one or two spokes
I'd still consider that reasonable.

Oil the threads and let oil spill over the side to lube the
nipple against the rim, too. Wipe up the excess before
smearing the oil with your brake shoes.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

Woogoogle wrote:

I have an older wheel that when I turn a nipple, I must turn it a lot
before the spoke frees itself and moves.

From what I could find using google search most people recommend
replacing the spokes and nipples. Why does one have to replace the
spokes?

Oh, but it does move though? Drop the tension, oil the
nipples and then bring it back up to tight/round/true and
all will be well. If you have to cut out one or two spokes
I'd still consider that reasonable.

Oil the threads and let oil spill over the side to lube the
nipple against the rim, too. Wipe up the excess before
smearing the oil with your brake shoes.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

steve- I have an older wheel that when I turn a nipple, I must turn it a lot
before the spoke frees itself and moves.

From what I could find using google search most people recommend
replacing the spokes and nipples. Why does one have to replace the
spokes?
BRBR


Before you do that look into a thing called a 'twist assist', a modified 4th
hand that is used to hold spokes while you turn nipps. You don't have the
replace the spokes, if you can actually turn the nipples. Lube the nipps and
rebuild.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

steve- I have an older wheel that when I turn a nipple, I must turn it a lot
before the spoke frees itself and moves.

From what I could find using google search most people recommend
replacing the spokes and nipples. Why does one have to replace the
spokes?
BRBR


Before you do that look into a thing called a 'twist assist', a modified 4th
hand that is used to hold spokes while you turn nipps. You don't have the
replace the spokes, if you can actually turn the nipples. Lube the nipps and
rebuild.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

A Muzi wrote in message news:

Oil the threads and let oil spill over the side to lube the
nipple against the rim, too. Wipe up the excess before
smearing the oil with your brake shoes.

Another good reason to remove any excess oil is that it will cause
punctures in your inner tubes. After carefully de-tensioning, lubing
and re-tensioning a wheel recently, surplus oil I had left around the
rim caused the inner tube to fail within a matter of hours of
refitting the tyre.

I had been rather liberal with the oil can (standard motor oil) around
the sockets in the rim. Gravity and a few hours time were all it took.

David Green
Cambridge UK

A Muzi wrote in message news:

Oil the threads and let oil spill over the side to lube the
nipple against the rim, too. Wipe up the excess before
smearing the oil with your brake shoes.

Another good reason to remove any excess oil is that it will cause
punctures in your inner tubes. After carefully de-tensioning, lubing
and re-tensioning a wheel recently, surplus oil I had left around the
rim caused the inner tube to fail within a matter of hours of
refitting the tyre.

I had been rather liberal with the oil can (standard motor oil) around
the sockets in the rim. Gravity and a few hours time were all it took.

David Green
Cambridge UK

The reason its recommended to replace the spokes is cleaning the thread
on each spoke is time consuming. Cheaper to replace.

For the DIY'er, its not usually an issue

--
Weisse Luft