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#21
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Compressionless brake housing?
On 2/28/2020 11:00 AM, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 11:42:18 AM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 2/27/2020 12:08 PM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 5:07:49 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote: On 2/26/2020 5:04 PM, Tom Kunich wrote: On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 2:42:59 PM UTC-8, Mark Cleary wrote: Is this stuff better than regular brake housing. I ask because rear brakes are at times spongy on some bikes. My Wilier has buried cables and the brake housing rear does not go all the way. At the rear exit to the brake the housing sits in the hole. The hole is too small for ferrule and housing just squeezed in. Makes for less than perfection not critical but given the ****ty weather i look for things to get perfect. If you can ride this stuff comes to mind. Deacon mark cleary And while we're at it - these smaller outer cables also do not cut as easily as the older cables did. I had the perfect outer cutter that cut the cable perfectly clean. Not so with the cutters on the market these days. After several tries the Park Tool Cutter seems to be the best of a bad lot. They tend to crush a portion of the outer spring wound cable leaving a portion in the way of the inner cable unless you can get the cutter in under that piece and sheer it off. The other tools couldn't do that properly but the Park Tool cutters seem able to do that. I tried cutting them with Brand X and then grinding the ends down but that turns out to be a great deal more difficult than you would think using a power grinder. So getting in under the bent piece and sheering it off appears to work best. For wires and linear gear casing, use a V-shaped cutter or ideally an actual Felco cutter: https://www.felco.com/us_en/our-prod.../felco-c7.html For spiral brake casing you want a simple edge like this: https://www.channellock.com/product/357/ The wire V-cutter mangles brake casing. How are you proposing that you cut using that flat front cutter? You use the V-cutter and then trim it with the Channel lock? I had a V-cutter from somewhere that make a perfect cut of the spiral wound brake cables but it disappeared. Since I have a habit of setting tools on top of the car in the garage I suspect that is what I did and drove off with a tool on the car and lost it. I bought a Pedro and it doesn't work nearly as well. The Park Tool works a little better but still leaves a crushed partial outer wire. But with the Park you can lift it up and get under it and cut it off clean. Now BC Bicycle works made a $20 cutter that is supposedly made to but outer covers as well and the inner cables. I'm thinking about that since I do rebuild bikes enough to need a good tool. Not sure I understand your question but I've been using a ChanneLock brand American made end cutter for spiral casing for 49 years[1] without incident. Nice clean cut with the occasional second snip to get a flat face. I switched from VAR[2] V cutters to Felco[3] in the middle 1980s for wires and shortly thereafter for linear gear casing. Also no problem with either. But hey I'm just reporting, use what you like. [1]Not the exact same cutter - they do wear and they get abuse too. But these are readily available, not very expensive, well made and durable. [2]Best thing of its era but below our modern standards for longevity. Whether material or temper, the edge wears too fast. [3] No idea how Felco stays in business. Damned things last just forever despite much abuse. Material, temper, finish are all overkill, and priced like it too, but you won't replace it. Well, my question addressed the problem that end cutters can only cut from the end of a cable only an in or so longer than you are fitting. This means that you have to use the V-cutters to cut the piece off of the roll and then use the end cutters to trim it to size and make a clean cut on the end. I'll get a channel lock end cutter from your recommendation. That's not right. A nice end cutter (see link above) has plenty of side clearance to snip spiral casing anywhere you deem suitable. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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#22
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Compressionless brake housing?
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 10:09:38 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-8, Ralph Barone wrote: I’ve used a diamond cutoff wheel in a Dremel with pretty good results. You just need to jam something through the inner liner after you cut and before the plastic cools to ensure it doesn’t deform too much. That's what they make toothpicks for. I usually just poke the inner cable through from the other end of the housing. This way, any excess material gets ejected instead of potentially being jammed into the housing. Plus, I don't need to go look for a toothpick. -Luns |
#23
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Compressionless brake housing?
On Saturday, February 29, 2020 at 4:44:48 AM UTC-8, Luns Tee wrote:
On Thursday, February 27, 2020 at 10:09:38 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote: On Wednesday, February 26, 2020 at 5:35:47 PM UTC-8, Ralph Barone wrote: I’ve used a diamond cutoff wheel in a Dremel with pretty good results. You just need to jam something through the inner liner after you cut and before the plastic cools to ensure it doesn’t deform too much. That's what they make toothpicks for. I usually just poke the inner cable through from the other end of the housing. This way, any excess material gets ejected instead of potentially being jammed into the housing. Plus, I don't need to go look for a toothpick. -Luns The newest outer cable is 5 mm in diameter rather than the older 6 mm. This means that the inner plastic tube is a smaller diameter and is a much tougher job to push through the compressed end. Depending on just how much the inner plastic tube was distorted you may not be able to push through. And in these cases your can open it up with a toothpick. |
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