replacing qr axle

I'm thinking about installing a high quality front hub on my Raleigh,
since the cheap replacement cones on the Sturmey front low flange hub,
are only lasting 2k miles before pitting badly. Can i buy an XT or
Campy Record hub and retro fit a nutted axle?
cheers for reading my question,
thanks, Nick.

What kind of conditions? If you're in constant wet filthy roads and
don't clean the cones very frequently, any cones are going to wear
quickly...

Why a nutted axle? Are you afraid of theft? There are some QR skewers
available that do tricks, such as having a hex fitting on the cam (and
the QR handle is an "allen" wrench).

If you're determined to go Campy, either go Centaur (wonderful to
service) or Veloce (sealed bearings).

For durability, and since you mentioned Record as a choice, check out
Phil Wood hubs.

Oh yeah, and there'd be nothing wrong with an XT hub, either. It's just
that the Centaur (and higher) hubs are so sweet to work on.

wrote:
I'm thinking about installing a high quality front hub on my Raleigh,
since the cheap replacement cones on the Sturmey front low flange hub,
are only lasting 2k miles before pitting badly. Can i buy an XT or
Campy Record hub and retro fit a nutted axle?
cheers for reading my question,
thanks, Nick.

wrote:
I'm thinking about installing a high quality front hub on my Raleigh,
since the cheap replacement cones on the Sturmey front low flange hub,
are only lasting 2k miles before pitting badly. Can i buy an XT or
Campy Record hub and retro fit a nutted axle?

Yes.
If you ask nicely you may talk the vendor into swapping when you buy it;
a trivial exercise. Point out that the skewer costs about the same as
track nuts when you do.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

wrote:
I'm thinking about installing a high quality front hub on my Raleigh,
since the cheap replacement cones on the Sturmey front low flange hub,
are only lasting 2k miles before pitting badly. Can i buy an XT or
Campy Record hub and retro fit a nutted axle?

p.s. I'm assuming you mean classic equipment. Modern aluminum axle
versions, no.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Jun 2, 12:51?pm, richard wrote:
What kind of conditions? If you're in constant wet filthy roads and
don't clean the cones very frequently, any cones are going to wear
quickly...
dry conditions, new grease and bearings every 1000 miles, cones well adjusted top speed no more than 35mph normally and i avoid potholes.
Why a nutted axle? Are you afraid of theft? There are some QR skewers
available that do tricks, such as having a hex fitting on the cam (and
the QR handle is an "allen" wrench).
I prefer the safety of nuts and solid steel, if i'm on a busy road i
want to know that the axles are going to hold up. I've read the points
about qr strength, but to be honest my axles have always been 5/16",
so qr wasn't an option.

If you're determined to go Campy, either go Centaur (wonderful to
service) or Veloce (sealed bearings).
i'll have a look at my LBS. Do the Centaur cups last a good time?
For durability, and since you mentioned Record as a choice, check out
Phil Wood hubs.

Oh yeah, and there'd be nothing wrong with an XT hub, either. It's just
that the Centaur (and higher) hubs are so sweet to work on.

Sounds a good reason to buy, i agree, if you can't strip it and tinker, what's the point, ha.

p.s. I'm assuming you mean classic equipment. Modern aluminum axle
versions, no.

--
Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

yeap, definitely. Aluminium axles, why on earth would they make them
out of such an inferior material? Sounds like the fashion demons
again.

Are modern solid axles, say on the Campy or Phil Wood, the standard
9mm?
cheers, Nick.

On Sat, 02 Jun 2007 13:46:41 -0700, wrote:


I prefer the safety of nuts and solid steel, if i'm on a busy road i
want to know that the axles are going to hold up. I've read the points
about qr strength, but to be honest my axles have always been 5/16",
so qr wasn't an option.

Why on earth would someone buy new parts to support such unfounded
concerns? Sounds like the overkill demons again.


--
JT
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wrote:
p.s. I'm assuming you mean classic equipment. Modern aluminum axle
versions, no.

--
Andrew Muziwww.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

yeap, definitely. Aluminium axles, why on earth would they make them
out of such an inferior material?

what exactly do you mean by "inferior material"??? what properties do
you want an axle to have? aluminum may make an inferior magnet for
instance, but its mechanical properties can exceed those of steel if you
look at a property like specific modulus.


Sounds like the fashion demons
again.

Are modern solid axles, say on the Campy or Phil Wood, the standard
9mm?

the only one of those that's solid axle is a campy track. every other
hub axle they use is hollow.

your problem is nothing to do with the axle - it's all about the quality
of the hub cones and their adjustment. if the quality is sufficient and
they're adjusted properly, they'll last ages.

shimano cones ome and replacement cones are hard enough and compatible
with grade 25 bearings.
Wheels Mfg cones run differently here than Shimano cones. Wheels cones
quickly break into a race, the Shimano cones wear harder. In theory,
that could mean the Wheels cones are faster out of the box.
The solid axle is called a 'track axle,' so i hear, at 9mm and carries
Shimano and Wheels cones. Wheels has 'track axles' ?

I ) wrote:
p.s. I'm assuming you mean classic equipment. Modern aluminum axle
versions, no.

wrote:
yeap, definitely. Aluminium axles, why on earth would they make them
out of such an inferior material?

jim beam wrote:
what exactly do you mean by "inferior material"??? what properties do
you want an axle to have? aluminum may make an inferior magnet for
instance, but its mechanical properties can exceed those of steel if you
look at a property like specific modulus.

wrote:
Sounds like the fashion demons
again.
Are modern solid axles, say on the Campy or Phil Wood, the standard
9mm?

jim beam wrote:
the only one of those that's solid axle is a campy track. every other
hub axle they use is hollow.
your problem is nothing to do with the axle - it's all about the quality
of the hub cones and their adjustment. if the quality is sufficient and
they're adjusted properly, they'll last ages.

I'm with jimbeam here. The post-2000 Campagnolo road hubs are an
exceptional design, free running, easy to adjust and/or service, light
and broken axles are unknown in that design, "inferior" aluminum axles
notwithstanding.

Despite its excellent service record for the intended (road) purpose
there's no way to change to 10mm/9mm solid axles. Get track or vintage hubs.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971