Problem with Litespeed Titanium Seatpost Clamp / set screw

I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"

Doug T wrote:
I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"

Not sure this will be enough. But I have had great luck applying carbon
assembly paste to seatposts that slide. This is basically grease or
paste with some form of fine grit in it.

On 03/12/2011 12:22 PM, David White wrote:
Doug T wrote:
I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"

Not sure this will be enough. But I have had great luck applying carbon
assembly paste to seatposts that slide. This is basically grease or
paste with some form of fine grit in it.

I'm guessing that this may be similar to valve lapping compound, which
used to be commonly available in better auto parts stores. Not sure if
it still is however as most people don't bother lapping their own valves.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 3/12/2011 11:32 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 03/12/2011 12:22 PM, David White wrote:
Doug T wrote:
I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"

Not sure this will be enough. But I have had great luck applying carbon
assembly paste to seatposts that slide. This is basically grease or
paste with some form of fine grit in it.

I'm guessing that this may be similar to valve lapping compound, which
used to be commonly available in better auto parts stores. Not sure if
it still is however as most people don't bother lapping their own valves.

Not to mention that you can run a properly designed and built modern
engine hard for a couple hundred thousand miles, without needing to do
anything to the valves. E.g., I ran my 1994 Civic Si hard, and it still
had good as new compression and no noticeable oil consumption at 160K
miles. And except for cosmetic wear on the body and interior, my Nissan
Frontier is about as good as new, despite being almost 9 years old with
125K miles.

--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.

Op 12-3-2011 18:18, Doug T schreef:
I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"


Terrible design. Get rid of it.

Lou, been there done that.

On 3/12/2011 11:18 AM, Doug Taylor wrote:
I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.

Tºm Shermªn™ °_° wrote:
On 3/12/2011 11:18 AM, Doug Taylor wrote:
I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php


The problem was solved at one time:

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...diIMG_3209.jpg

before it was "improved". Now it's a problem again.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 03/12/2011 12:53 PM, Tºm Shermªn™ °_° wrote:
On 3/12/2011 11:32 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 03/12/2011 12:22 PM, David White wrote:
Doug T wrote:
I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"

Not sure this will be enough. But I have had great luck applying carbon
assembly paste to seatposts that slide. This is basically grease or
paste with some form of fine grit in it.

I'm guessing that this may be similar to valve lapping compound, which
used to be commonly available in better auto parts stores. Not sure if
it still is however as most people don't bother lapping their own valves.

Not to mention that you can run a properly designed and built modern
engine hard for a couple hundred thousand miles, without needing to do
anything to the valves. E.g., I ran my 1994 Civic Si hard, and it still
had good as new compression and no noticeable oil consumption at 160K
miles. And except for cosmetic wear on the body and interior, my Nissan
Frontier is about as good as new, despite being almost 9 years old with
125K miles.


One reason for that is the improvements in valve seats made after the
switch to unleaded gas (notice that engines designed prior to the
introduction of leaded gas often have better valve seats, either inserts
or induction hardening of the head material, than mid-50's through late
60's engines) another could be the widespread adoption of aluminum heads
which pretty much necessitates the use of valve seat inserts.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Mar 12, 1:09*pm, AMuzi wrote:
T m Sherm n _ wrote:

On 3/12/2011 11:18 AM, Doug Taylor wrote:
I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

The problem was solved at one time:

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...cle%20Parts/Se...

before it was "improved". Now it's a problem again.

I know not what course others may take, but I have a couple of Campy C
Record posts and one contemporary Chorus Ti seatpost that all work
fine. I have heard of cracking-- which part failed was not specified--
with the Ti posts, but I don't "overtighten" ("far as it will go and
then another half-turn") mine and grease the threads well before
assembly/tightening. Both of these types have single under-clamp allen
bolt tighteners. IMS the Chorus Ti has a toothed ramp while the C
Rec's are smooth, but I've never had a C Record seatpost slip in at
least ten years of use on various bikes.
--D-y

On 3/12/2011 2:15 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 03/12/2011 12:53 PM, Tºm Shermªn™ °_° wrote:
On 3/12/2011 11:32 AM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 03/12/2011 12:22 PM, David White wrote:
Doug T wrote:
I cannot seem to tighten the clamp on my seatpost enough so that it
does not slip (rotate). Even the set screw does not keep it from
slipping so the seat will tilt when I hit a bump. Extremely annoying.

I was thinking of trying to rough up the surfaces somehow or inserting
a thin layer of rubber or sandpaper. Any suggestions?

img src="http://members.cox.net/julie.taylor/Litespeed_Seatpost.JPG"

Not sure this will be enough. But I have had great luck applying carbon
assembly paste to seatposts that slide. This is basically grease or
paste with some form of fine grit in it.

I'm guessing that this may be similar to valve lapping compound, which
used to be commonly available in better auto parts stores. Not sure if
it still is however as most people don't bother lapping their own
valves.

Not to mention that you can run a properly designed and built modern
engine hard for a couple hundred thousand miles, without needing to do
anything to the valves. E.g., I ran my 1994 Civic Si hard, and it still
had good as new compression and no noticeable oil consumption at 160K
miles. And except for cosmetic wear on the body and interior, my Nissan
Frontier is about as good as new, despite being almost 9 years old with
125K miles.


One reason for that is the improvements in valve seats made after the
switch to unleaded gas (notice that engines designed prior to the
introduction of leaded gas often have better valve seats, either inserts
or induction hardening of the head material, than mid-50's through late
60's engines) another could be the widespread adoption of aluminum heads
which pretty much necessitates the use of valve seat inserts.

nate


As I said before, the engineers at the plants that actually make the
engines report that the improvements in engine durability came largely
as the result of big improvements in the precision of the engine
components, specifically the grinding operations that produce cranks,
cams and pistons. That precision was required by emissions requirements.
Engine manufacture used to be a shockingly sloppy process.