Campy Right Ergo Overhaul Success!

Was very reluctant to overhaul my right ergo, but after yesterday's ride
the shifting just became too mushy. I bought what was suggested as the
bare minimum of replacement parts to bring my ergo back to "smooth as
butta" state some 3,000k ago. I kept putting the overhaul off because
when viewing the ergo parts schematic it looked as complicated as doing
a rubrics cube. Anyway the parts I had on hand were the 2 G-springs, the
thumb shifter coil spring and the coil spring that works with the big
paddle and does the down shifting. Taking apart the ergo was easy. What
really surprised me was that the G-springs are just pushed into place. I
though that they were hinged in but they're not. The next spring to put
in was the thumb shifter spring, easy as pie. The down shifter paddle
spring was also easy but a little tricky in getting the coil tight
before bolting the the complete assembly together. The whole operation
took about 40 minutes of which about 15 minutes were spent trying to
figure out how to get the down shifter paddle spring coiled down with
the proper tension. One last observation, the click you hear when you
shift I believe comes from the G-springs engaging and disengaging and
when they get "soft" is when your shifting gets mushy. If so, maybe I
didn't need to replace the thumb shifter spring and the paddle down
shifter spring as I "think" that all they do is bring the thumb shifter
or the paddle shifter back to its original start position. Could be
wrong though. For those of you who are worried about mucking up the ergo
when DIYing all I can say is just do it, it's easier than it looks.

Kenny Lee

Kenny Lee wrote:
Was very reluctant to overhaul my right ergo, but after yesterday's
ride the shifting just became too mushy. I bought what was suggested
as the bare minimum of replacement parts to bring my ergo back to
"smooth as butta" state some 3,000k ago. I kept putting the overhaul
off because when viewing the ergo parts schematic it looked as
complicated as doing a rubrics cube. Anyway the parts I had on hand
were the 2 G-springs, the thumb shifter coil spring and the coil
spring that works with the big paddle and does the down shifting.
Taking apart the ergo was easy. What really surprised me was that the
G-springs are just pushed into place. I though that they were hinged
in but they're not. The next spring to put in was the thumb shifter
spring, easy as pie. The down shifter paddle spring was also easy but
a little tricky in getting the coil tight before bolting the the
complete assembly together. The whole operation took about 40 minutes
of which about 15 minutes were spent trying to figure out how to get
the down shifter paddle spring coiled down with the proper tension.
One last observation, the click you hear when you shift I believe
comes from the G-springs engaging and disengaging and when they get
"soft" is when your shifting gets mushy. If so, maybe I didn't need
to replace the thumb shifter spring and the paddle down shifter
spring as I "think" that all they do is bring the thumb shifter or
the paddle shifter back to its original start position. Could be
wrong though. For those of you who are worried about mucking up the
ergo when DIYing all I can say is just do it, it's easier than it
looks.

I would recommend any first timer has a spare thumb spring standing by
because they are easy to damage when fitting by those us less talented
than Kenny!

~PB

Kenny Lee wrote:
Was very reluctant to overhaul my right ergo, but after yesterday's
ride the shifting just became too mushy. I bought what was suggested
as the bare minimum of replacement parts to bring my ergo back to
"smooth as butta" state some 3,000k ago. I kept putting the overhaul
off because when viewing the ergo parts schematic it looked as
complicated as doing a rubrics cube. Anyway the parts I had on hand
were the 2 G-springs, the thumb shifter coil spring and the coil
spring that works with the big paddle and does the down shifting.
Taking apart the ergo was easy. What really surprised me was that the
G-springs are just pushed into place. I though that they were hinged
in but they're not. The next spring to put in was the thumb shifter
spring, easy as pie. The down shifter paddle spring was also easy but
a little tricky in getting the coil tight before bolting the the
complete assembly together. The whole operation took about 40 minutes
of which about 15 minutes were spent trying to figure out how to get
the down shifter paddle spring coiled down with the proper tension.
One last observation, the click you hear when you shift I believe
comes from the G-springs engaging and disengaging and when they get
"soft" is when your shifting gets mushy. If so, maybe I didn't need
to replace the thumb shifter spring and the paddle down shifter
spring as I "think" that all they do is bring the thumb shifter or
the paddle shifter back to its original start position. Could be
wrong though. For those of you who are worried about mucking up the
ergo when DIYing all I can say is just do it, it's easier than it
looks.

I would recommend any first timer has a spare thumb spring standing by
because they are easy to damage when fitting by those us less talented
than Kenny!

~PB

bfd wrote:



Can you explain how you got the proper tension to coil the down shift
paddle spring?


The spring part #EC-RE055 has an "L" shaped bend to it at it innermost
coil. This bit fits into a grooved slot in part #EC-RE251. With part
#EC-RE251 in place attach the spring to it. Use a small screwdriver to
push the coil at the hooked-end of the coil clockwise to wind it up. If
part # EC-RE251 was put in in the correct position relative to the post
where the coil spring is anchored onto with its hooked-end, then proper
tension will have been achieved when anchored.

A picture is worth more than a thousand words, so true in this case.
Just do it and you'll know what I mean.

Kenny Lee

bfd wrote:



Can you explain how you got the proper tension to coil the down shift
paddle spring?


The spring part #EC-RE055 has an "L" shaped bend to it at it innermost
coil. This bit fits into a grooved slot in part #EC-RE251. With part
#EC-RE251 in place attach the spring to it. Use a small screwdriver to
push the coil at the hooked-end of the coil clockwise to wind it up. If
part # EC-RE251 was put in in the correct position relative to the post
where the coil spring is anchored onto with its hooked-end, then proper
tension will have been achieved when anchored.

A picture is worth more than a thousand words, so true in this case.
Just do it and you'll know what I mean.

Kenny Lee

bfd- Can you explain how you got the proper tension to coil the down shift
paddle spring? BRBR

After the back bolt is in the flats, shift it all the way to the biggest cog
position...then install the inside pin of the spring in the 5 oclock position,
wrap the spring to the post, remove the bolt, replace the plate, bolt back
in..That way the tension of the back spring is the lowest when you install/wind
it up.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

bfd- Can you explain how you got the proper tension to coil the down shift
paddle spring? BRBR

After the back bolt is in the flats, shift it all the way to the biggest cog
position...then install the inside pin of the spring in the 5 oclock position,
wrap the spring to the post, remove the bolt, replace the plate, bolt back
in..That way the tension of the back spring is the lowest when you install/wind
it up.

Peter Chisholm
Vecchio's Bicicletteria
1833 Pearl St.
Boulder, CO, 80302
(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com
"Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"

bfd wrote:

Can you explain how you got the proper tension to coil the down shift
paddle spring?

http://www.velonews.com/tech/rev/levers.html

~PB

bfd wrote:

Can you explain how you got the proper tension to coil the down shift
paddle spring?

http://www.velonews.com/tech/rev/levers.html

~PB