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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
I am very confused and I hope someone out there can help!
I do between 12 and 20 miles of commute/town riding in the week, and sometimes longer rides at weekends (50 miles). The usual routes lie on the roads, but at present a key section is closed, and the alternative involves a muddy path across a field. The bike is a solid frame MTB running on semislick tyres and without mudguards. I have just worn out the entire transmission (?) - gears front and back, chain and little diddy wheels in derailleur. And I have been told what must be the third or fourth version of "How one should oil/clean a bike". This latest one being that I should brush down with soapy water after each ride, rinse and relube practically the entire bike with light oil. Whilst I see the virtue in this, I fear I am not naturally inclined to be that virtuous. What should I lube, with what, when and how much? Does this need to change when the route returns to being entirely on road? I do not have the bike mechanic's zeal for a perfectly clean machine, I just want the bike to work well and not wear itself out too fast. Eagerly awaiting your advice, Sarennah [in and out of lab, and posting via Google, please be patient] |
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#2
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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
Sarennah wrote:
I do between 12 and 20 miles of commute/town riding in the week, and sometimes longer rides at weekends (50 miles). The usual routes lie on the roads, but at present a key section is closed, and the alternative involves a muddy path across a field. The bike is a solid frame MTB running on semislick tyres and without mudguards. I have just worn out the entire transmission (?) - gears front and back, chain and little diddy wheels in derailleur. And I have been told what must be the third or fourth version of "How one should oil/clean a bike". This latest one being that I should brush down with soapy water after each ride, rinse and relube practically the entire bike with light oil. Whilst I see the virtue in this, I fear I am not naturally inclined to be that virtuous. That's fair enough, you'd end up never riding the thing if you did that every time! I am inclined to give the transmission a quick blast of light oil (usually GT85 teflon lube) after any ride where there's a lot of cack about on the roads at this time of year because it usually includes salt and that does horrible things to the chain. Mud and cack from offroad does wear things but at least it tends not to actively corrode them, so a wipe will generally do for that. I backpedal by hand to run the chain and spray on very generous amounts of the oil onto the running chain, to ensure it works into the joints in the chain. And I then proceed to rub most of it off again, so there isn't a film of liquid for new dirt to cling to. Bit wasteful I suppose but it doesn't cost that much and seems to do the job! As long as the frame is painted properly the paint should protect the frame from anything much in the corrosion line. It should also be smooth enough that a wipe with a rag will take any such clag off. I can't remember actually washing a frame for years, and mine seem to be in fair condition so I wouldn't bother with that. Beyond that main lube job I do is dropping 3 in 1 down the brake cables on the Brompton (they turn up at the ends on that particular design, so water can drop into them), or dropping a bit on stuff like the brake caliper hinges. I Don't do that very often, only if it seems to be a little reluctant. If you're riding on the road then a decent set of mudguards with a flap will stop a *lot* of crunge being thrown off the front wheel and onto the transmission (stuff from the back tends to clear the transmission, but just goes up your back instead...). A crud-catcher isn't as good, but strategically sited my help matters. I'm always quite surprised the amount of utility bikes in this country that have no mudguards at all, they really are a Good Thing, both for you and the bike. Pete. -- Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
#3
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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
"Sarennah" wrote in message I have just worn out the entire transmission (?) - gears front and back, chain and little diddy wheels in derailleur. Been there, done that....... And I have been told what must be the third or fourth version of "How one should oil/clean a bike". This latest one being that I should brush down with soapy water after each ride, rinse and relube practically the entire bike with light oil. Whilst I see the virtue in this, I fear I am not naturally inclined to be that virtuous. Have a look at url:http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html - the site in general is a treasure trove of useful information which is worth reading, but read the words of Mr Brown about chains. Keep your chain clean and lubed, measure it for stretch every now and again, and wipe the crud off your bike when it starts weighing more than the frame....... E |
#4
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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
Sarennah wrote:
What should I lube, with what, when and how much? Does this need to change when the route returns to being entirely on road? I do not have the bike mechanic's zeal for a perfectly clean machine, I just want the bike to work well and not wear itself out too fast. Eagerly awaiting your advice, Sarennah [in and out of lab, and posting via Google, please be patient] Ahh, the lube debate.. I generally find that GT85 is too light for the kind of weather w "enjoy" here in the UK during winter months, and if you are going ont some less clean roads, I don't think it's for you. The water and cru will pull this light oil from your mech and leave you grinding metal I'm using some White Lightning Raceday Extreme at the moment on m winter bike (road frame, but weighed down with full length mudguards an lights). This is wax based but works a treat If you are going to be cleaning your chain then you need to get yoursel some citrus based degreaser. There are various ways of applying this ranging from clever gadgets that you fill up and thread your chai through to the more basic (but just as effective) remove the chain an dunk it in a jamjar full of the degreasing agent The most useful tool for cleaning I find is the old toothbrush, get right into the difficult to reach places My pal who is a MTB fanatic swears by MucOff, he just blasts the entir bike with this stuff, hoses it off and then re-lubes his rear mech an derailleurs every week You can get the lubes I've mentioned http://www.cyclestore.co.ukhere ; - |
#5
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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
I am greatly indebted to you all for reassuring me that it is not
necessary for me to spend half my life up to my elbows in oil or degreaser or both! I shall try the White lightening - I actually have some on the shelf to try when the current oil runs out. And giving it a good clean at the weekend minimum, and in the week when it needs it. Cheers :-) Sarennah |
#6
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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
davek wrote:
I don't use GT85 for lubing but I do find it good for light cleaning - the solvent it contains is a good surface degreaser. Just hose the mud off, spray on some GT85 and wipe it off, then use some proper chain lube - such as White Lightning, if you're so inclined. Amen to that - |
#7
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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
I generally find that GT85 is too light for the kind of weather w
"enjoy" here in the UK during winter month I don't use GT85 for lubing but I do find it good for light cleaning the solvent it contains is a good surface degreaser. Just hose the mu off, spray on some GT85 and wipe it off, then use some proper chain lub - such as White Lightning, if you're so inclined - |
#8
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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
McBain_v1 wrote:
I generally find that GT85 is too light for the kind of weather we "enjoy" here in the UK during winter months, and if you are going onto some less clean roads, I don't think it's for you. Depends on the bike to quite an extent. On the Streetmachine, the wheels have full mudguards and flaps, the chain is well away from the front wheel anyway and most of the transmission is enclosed in chain tubes. Plus the chain is 3 times loner than usual so wears rather less. The 8Freight doesn't have the benefits of the chain tubes or the crank being out of the cack zone from the front, but the chain is far enough over from the back wheel, plus also very long, and thus tends to fare rather better than the chain on the Brom. I still use GT85 on that, but a lot more frequently than on the others. Might look at some of this Super Wonder Lube for that... Pete. -- Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
#9
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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
in message , Peter Clinch
') wrote: Sarennah wrote: I do between 12 and 20 miles of commute/town riding in the week, and sometimes longer rides at weekends (50 miles). The usual routes lie on the roads, but at present a key section is closed, and the alternative involves a muddy path across a field. The bike is a solid frame MTB running on semislick tyres and without mudguards. I have just worn out the entire transmission (?) - gears front and back, chain and little diddy wheels in derailleur. And I have been told what must be the third or fourth version of "How one should oil/clean a bike". This latest one being that I should brush down with soapy water after each ride, rinse and relube practically the entire bike with light oil. Whilst I see the virtue in this, I fear I am not naturally inclined to be that virtuous. That's fair enough, you'd end up never riding the thing if you did that every time! I am inclined to give the transmission a quick blast of light oil (usually GT85 teflon lube) after any ride where there's a lot of cack about on the roads at this time of year because it usually includes salt and that does horrible things to the chain. Mud and cack from offroad does wear things but at least it tends not to actively corrode them, so a wipe will generally do for that. No, not GT85 on chains. In fact, not GT85 anywhere. The chain is the critical thing - it's when the chain stretches that all your cogs start to wear, so you need to keep the chain lubed. I use Finish Line Cross Country, about one sparing application every 50 miles. Chainsaw oil is also said to be good and much cheaper. Spray on the *inside* of the chain, ideally in the evening (hold the can still and run the chain backwards past it), and wipe off any excess by running the chain backwards through a pad of kitchen paper in the morning. Too much oil on the chain just helps grit to adhere, and that accelerates wear. All cables and bearings ideally want grease. Spraying GT85 at them will just disolve the grease that's protecting them and let it wash out faster. The GT85 people do 'white grease' in a spray can which I find very handy for cables and bearings, although a tube of ordinary lithium grease doesn't cost much and is very useful. -- (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/ ... a mild, inoffensive sadist... |
#10
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Lubrication - where, when, what, how much?
Simon Brooke wrote:
No, not GT85 on chains. In fact, not GT85 anywhere. The chain is the critical thing - it's when the chain stretches that all your cogs start to wear, so you need to keep the chain lubed. I use GT85 on my chain and it seems to do okay, and the cogs don't seem to die unnaturally fast either... All cables and bearings ideally want grease. Spraying GT85 at them will just disolve the grease that's protecting them and let it wash out faster. Quite so, which is why I never use it on cables and bearings. Usually use PTFE grease for those. Pete. -- Peter Clinch University of Dundee Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Medical Physics, Ninewells Hospital Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK net http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/ |
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