chain clean kit

On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:49:11 -0400, "Duane Hebert"
wrote:

Something like the Nashbar is what I was thinking about. No need to pull
the wheel and put it on a stand.

I didn't realize they were only 10 bucks. I'll just try one.

If you're going to use it indoors, make sure you put plenty of old
newspaper or equivalent on the floor beforehand - they make an
incredible mess if even slightly overfilled or the cranks are spun too
quickly.

On 9/20/2010 10:28 PM, Dan O wrote:
On Sep 20, 6:39 am, "Duane wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a kit to clean my
chain without removing it. Something quicker than
the tooth brush but that still works. Any suggestions?

I'm a toothbrush man myself. Drop dirty chain after a few hundred
miles and maybe a re-lube or two (depending). Coil into coffee can,
cover w/ mineral spirits. Soak. Install clean chain from top of
working chain pile, lube, ride.

A couple days later, scrub soaking chain w/ toothbrush. First one
side rollers and sideplates - about four or five links (handful) at a
time - turn over and repeat for other side. Hang chain, dump dirty
solvent to settle, wipe out coffee can. Coil chain back into coffee
can, cover w/ clean(er) mineral spirits, rinse, hang chain to dry. A
couple days later, coil clean, dry chain into plastic box and place on
bottom of clean working chain pile.

There is no such thing as a free lunch.

Extracting the rivets weakens the chain (unless you have a removable
link), and soaking the chain without the links being in motion while in
the solvent is not cleaning it as well as a machine would. As Sheldon
Brown writes, "The on-the-bike system has the advantage that the
cleaning machine flexes the links and spins the rollers. This scrubbing
action may do a better job of cleaning the innards."

What is the resistance to chain cleaning machines? It's almost as if the
fact that they make the job faster and do it better is somehow seen as
"cheating" (or a free lunch). Actually they can get a bit messy if
you're not careful, and just as with the coffee can method you have to
change the solvent several times before it runs clean.

At least the mineral spirits are a good solvent though. It's sad to see
so many people soaking their chain in a water based solvent.

On 9/21/2010 4:12 PM, SMS wrote:

What is the resistance to chain cleaning machines? It's almost as if the
fact that they make the job faster and do it better is somehow seen as
"cheating" (or a free lunch). Actually they can get a bit messy if
you're not careful, and just as with the coffee can method you have to
change the solvent several times before it runs clean.

I tried one, it make a mess. I haven't cleaned a chain is years outside
of an occasional wipe. It doesn't seem to make any difference, although
I didn't qualify that by formal experimentation. I didn't have to,
somebody else on this group did years ago.

"Peter Cole" wrote in message ...
On 9/21/2010 4:12 PM, SMS wrote:

What is the resistance to chain cleaning machines? It's almost as if the
fact that they make the job faster and do it better is somehow seen as
"cheating" (or a free lunch). Actually they can get a bit messy if
you're not careful, and just as with the coffee can method you have to
change the solvent several times before it runs clean.

I tried one, it make a mess. I haven't cleaned a chain is years outside
of an occasional wipe. It doesn't seem to make any difference, although
I didn't qualify that by formal experimentation. I didn't have to,
somebody else on this group did years ago.

I usually let the guys at the bike shop do a wash and tune up each spring.
But this year, it seems that I ended up riding in the rain and mud more
than usual.

"Andrew Price" wrote in message ...
On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:49:11 -0400, "Duane Hebert"
wrote:

Something like the Nashbar is what I was thinking about. No need to pull
the wheel and put it on a stand.

I didn't realize they were only 10 bucks. I'll just try one.

If you're going to use it indoors, make sure you put plenty of old
newspaper or equivalent on the floor beforehand - they make an
incredible mess if even slightly overfilled or the cranks are spun too
quickly.

Carport but I'll use the newspapers.

On 9/21/2010 1:23 PM, Duane Hebert wrote:


"Andrew Price" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 13:49:11 -0400, "Duane Hebert"
wrote:

Something like the Nashbar is what I was thinking about. No need to pull
the wheel and put it on a stand.
I didn't realize they were only 10 bucks. I'll just try one.

If you're going to use it indoors, make sure you put plenty of old
newspaper or equivalent on the floor beforehand - they make an
incredible mess if even slightly overfilled or the cranks are spun too
quickly.

Carport but I'll use the newspapers.

I'd use a large piece of cardboard that can absorb more solvent than
newspaper, or better yet one of those large plastic drip trays that you
slide under a car that's leaking oil.

As Andrew stated, they can make a mess. You want to turn the cranks very
slowly. Remember that you'll need to change the solvent several times
before the chain runs clean through the cleaner.

If you use kerosene, you can filter the used solvent through a coffee
filter, and burn it in a kerosene lantern.

wrote:
I'm skeptical about this rule of "no water based degreasers".
Assuming you rinse the chain well with a power nozzle and can put the
bike in a warm, dry place for the chain to dry, a Citrosolve or Simple
Green type detergent in the chain cleaner has always worked well for
me. Regarding the removal of lubricant and the difficulty of re-
introducing it in the right places, a good, soaking spray of Tri-Flow
which contains the lightweight carriers and penetrants will surely
make its way to all the surfaces of the links.


No one is wrong about his/her personal taste and those of us
who sell chain are strongly supportive of your endeavors:

http://draco.nac.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8d.1.html

et seq.


--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Sep 21, 10:24*am, Tom Sherman °_°
wrote:
On 9/21/2010 8:11 AM, aka Chris Crawford wrote: I'm skeptical about this rule of "no water based degreasers".
Assuming you rinse the chain well with a power nozzle and can put the
bike in a warm, dry place for the chain to dry, a Citrosolve or Simple
Green type detergent in the chain cleaner has always worked well for
me. *Regarding the removal of lubricant and the difficulty of re-
introducing it in the right places, a good, soaking spray of Tri-Flow
which contains the lightweight carriers and penetrants will surely
make its way to all the surfaces of the links.

Some have claimed that the water based cleaners can damage the chain by
attacking the metal.

As opposed to rain which pampers and coddles the chain.

I don't like water-based cleaners because they don't work well. I
also like the smell of hydrocarbons and their flammability. They're
also good for killing weeds and fish and other living things, although
anti-freeze is harder to detect in mixed drinks.

The only good water based clearner is, in fact, rain -- like the
record rainfall we have had this September. Rain will get your chain
squeaky clean!

OT: On one day in the last week or so, we got nearly 1 1/2 inches of
rain in one hour. Maybe that's not much for the Midwest, but it is a
lot for PDX. In one of those torrential downpours, even expensive rain
gear will only keep you dry for about 50 seconds. -- Jay Beattie.

On Sep 21, 1:24*pm, Tom Sherman °_°
wrote:


Some have claimed that the water based cleaners can damage the chain by
attacking the metal.

--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.

water is not going to hurt your chain- it is leaving water on a
unprotected metal surface to air dry that will. a gummy oily black
mess of a chain is pretty good for rainy/slushy riding environments-
it's not likely to get damaged sitting outside when commuting; but I'm
not commuting by bike, I like to keep my bike clean and running
smoothy and I like to see my silver DA chain shine and not having a
black smudge on my calf after a ride either. I'll throw some extra
lube on if riding in the wet and I make sure to wipe my chain dry when
it does get wet. I prefer to use the synthetic lubes than the common
machine oil, which is nice for a chain but will wash off in a good
rain.

On 9/21/2010 5:03 PM, raamman wrote:
On Sep 21, 1:24 pm, Tom Sherman °_°
wrote:


Some have claimed that the water based cleaners can damage the chain by
attacking the metal.

--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.

water is not going to hurt your chain- it is leaving water on a
unprotected metal surface to air dry that will. a gummy oily black
mess of a chain is pretty good for rainy/slushy riding environments-
it's not likely to get damaged sitting outside when commuting; but I'm
not commuting by bike, I like to keep my bike clean and running
smoothy and I like to see my silver DA chain shine and not having a
black smudge on my calf after a ride either. I'll throw some extra
lube on if riding in the wet and I make sure to wipe my chain dry when
it does get wet. I prefer to use the synthetic lubes than the common
machine oil, which is nice for a chain but will wash off in a good
rain.

I think the basis of the claim was that most of the water-based cleaners
are very caustic, and that may etch the metal. I don't know that that
would be worse than the winter brine we get in Boston, but that's the
theory.