Can I make an internal geared bike from this 29er?

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/se/stout.htm

Was wondering if this would be a good "base" bike to
change into and internal geared bike for commuting?

On Jan 7, 1:52*pm, wrote:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/se/stout.htm

Was wondering if this would be a good "base" bike to
change into and internal geared bike for commuting?

No fender eyelets or rack bosses. Inappropriate tires. Why bother when
you can get something already internally geared for fifty bucks more?:

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebik...commuter1.html

Or if you prefer the mtb look:

http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=worldbike

landotter wrote:

wrote:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/se/stout.htm

Was wondering if this would be a good "base" bike to
change into and internal geared bike for commuting?

My answer to the OP's question: Yes. All you'd need to add are a
gearhub-equipped wheel, a corresponding shifter, some cable, housing,
and a few zip ties.

Whatever mod cons you need to meet your definition of a commuter might
be a little more complicated to provide. I for one would not want to
commute on knobbies, and I'd also want a place to carry stuff (in this
case, maybe in a BMX-bar-mounted pannier).

No fender eyelets or rack bosses. Inappropriate tires. Why bother when
you can get something already internally geared for fifty bucks more?:

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebik...commuter1.html

Dude, that bike would choke and die on 700x50 tires, let alone
700x60s. There is no substitute for big fat tires if that's what
you're after. I really enjoy my slick-shod and gearhubbed 29er even
though I have plenty of better-appointed bikes to choose from.

It's worth noting that a good bike shop or enterprising owner could
add any number of eyelets and brazeons to the CrMo-framed SE Stout.

Or if you prefer the mtb look:

http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=worldbike

That's a 26" bike, which isn't the same thing at all.

Chalo

On Jan 7, 3:48*pm, Chalo wrote:
landotter wrote:

wrote:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/se/stout.htm

Was wondering if this would be a good "base" bike to
change into and internal geared bike for commuting?

My answer to the OP's question: *Yes. *All you'd need to add are a
gearhub-equipped wheel, a corresponding shifter, some cable, housing,
and a few zip ties.

Whatever mod cons you need to meet your definition of a commuter might
be a little more complicated to provide. *I for one would not want to
commute on knobbies, and I'd also want a place to carry stuff (in this
case, maybe in a BMX-bar-mounted pannier).

No fender eyelets or rack bosses. Inappropriate tires. Why bother when
you can get something already internally geared for fifty bucks more?:

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebik...commuter1.html

Dude, that bike would choke and die on 700x50 tires, let alone
700x60s. *There is no substitute for big fat tires if that's what
you're after.

That Jamis should take 37s with fenders. Plenty of cush unless you're
a clyde.

*I really enjoy my slick-shod and gearhubbed 29er even
though I have plenty of better-appointed bikes to choose from.

It's worth noting that a good bike shop or enterprising owner could
add any number of eyelets and brazeons to the CrMo-framed SE Stout.


That's only worth it if you're getting the frame for free or it's
noteworthy in some way.

Or if you prefer the mtb look:

http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=worldbike

That's a 26" bike, which isn't the same thing at all.

It's even better than a 622 wheeled bike if you're going for the mtb
conversion look. The tires increase the effective wheel diameter,
weigh less, and are stronger. ;-)

landotter wrote:

Chalo wrote:

landotter wrote:

No fender eyelets or rack bosses. Inappropriate tires. Why bother when
you can get something already internally geared for fifty bucks more?:

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/thebik...commuter1.html

Dude, that bike would choke and die on 700x50 tires, let alone
700x60s. *There is no substitute for big fat tires if that's what
you're after.

That Jamis should take 37s with fenders. Plenty of cush unless you're
a clyde.

It has little to do with clyde or not-clyde. I use 30 psi in my
700x60 slicks for riding on the street, and they are not grievously
slowed in the way a smaller wheel's tire would be. Someone nearer the
median rider size could do it with 20-25 psi. That makes the bike
feel great and unstoppable.

The effects don't seem to be linear with size like I would have
thought before trying 29". You can use disproportionately less
pressure and get disproportionately better behavior and performance at
those low pressures than would ever be plausible with a 26" wheel. I
think that's the basic reason that there is no significant dispute
over the virtues of 24" versus 26" MTB wheels-- and the difference
between 26" and 29" is greater.

It's true that anyone who can ride a bike can make do with 37mm wide
tires. But why stop there? Just because some folks insist that 28mm
is plenty doesn't mean 37mm isn't noticeably better in some ways.
50mm is even better in those same respects, and 60mm better yet. If
someone were making "31ers" with 700x80 tires, I'd give them a go.
One of these days when the money fairy smiles on me, I'm going to
build a 36" bike and see how I like it.

Anyway, in the same way a road bike doesn't feel like an MTB, a 26"
bike doesn't feel like a 29" bike. Adding racks and fenders to a road
bike or a 26" bike won't make them ride any more like a 29er.

Chalo

In article
,
Chalo wrote:

It's true that anyone who can ride a bike can make do with 37mm wide
tires. But why stop there? Just because some folks insist that 28mm
is plenty doesn't mean 37mm isn't noticeably better in some ways.
50mm is even better in those same respects, and 60mm better yet.

Taken towards the logical conclusion:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2704764...-7215759458280
0375/

--
"I wear the cheese, it does not wear me."

On Jan 7, 7:52*pm, wrote:
http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/se/stout.htm

Was wondering if this would be a good "base" bike to
change into and internal geared bike for commuting?

I love internal hub gear bikes. But that bike bike you reference will
never make a satisfactory commuter. A commuter requires at the very
least mudguards (unless you live in a desert where it never rains) and
a rack for luggage. A kickstand is highly desirable too.

There are more features of a commuter bike that are important which
you should make allowance for in the spec of the frame you buy now,
even if for financial or other reasons you will not immediately
upgrade the components.

First, hub dynamos are cheap these days and work well for both front
and rear lights and good lights to go with a hub dynamo are getting
pretty cheap. Good light are essential on a commuter bike when the
days start drawing in.

Secondly, on rough surfaces, nothing rides as serenely as a large
diameter smooth balloon tire -- those knobblies on that bike are
immediately surplus to requirements, and you should ask what is the
widest tire that can be fitted in the fork and stays. By the time you
get to 622x60mm tyres (700C x 2.35in) you don't need any other
suspension, though a sprung seat might still be nice. If you're going
to commute every day, you'll soon come to value a plus ride as much as
Chalo. And those fat tackies hold the road well when it is wet too. I
have several hub gearbox bikes, some with 37mm tyres and some with
balloons, and you enter a different world of comfort when you start
riding balloons. Don't for a minute believe people who say they're
slower than uncomfortable skinny tyres -- balloons somehow make you a
more powerful rider, at least in part because of their smoothness.

Depending on the length of your ride, and where you will ride on
weekends, maybe you want braze-ons for one or more water bottles.

I know it might look a little pricey against the BikesDirect items,
but Surly's Karate Monkey is a very versatile frame with braze-ons for
everything you can ever want, a short nippy wheelbase for riding in
traffic, and the capability of taking large wheels with fat tyres and
mudguards. People have fitted all kinds of hub gearboxes to it.

As an alternative, what about a secondhand Electra or Breezer with the
Shimano 7- or 8-speed hub gearbox already built in and all the other
desirable accessories already on the bike. A poster who is a serious
allweather commuter in Chicago bought one and was very satisfied.

Andre Jute
The rest is magic hidden in the hub.
For rare hub gear bikes, visit Jute on Bicycles at
http://www.audio-talk.co.uk/fiultra/...20CYCLING.html

Tim McNamara wrote:
In article
,
Chalo wrote:

It's true that anyone who can ride a bike can make do with 37mm wide
tires. But why stop there? Just because some folks insist that 28mm
is plenty doesn't mean 37mm isn't noticeably better in some ways.
50mm is even better in those same respects, and 60mm better yet.

Taken towards the logical conclusion:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/2704764...-7215759458280
0375/


Too bad they can't build a level house in that neighborhood

On Jan 7, 11:11*pm, Andre Jute wrote:
On Jan 7, 7:52*pm, wrote:
Snipped: ...on a commuter bike when the
days start drawing in.

Secondly, on rough surfaces, nothing rides as serenely as a large
diameter smooth balloon tire -- those knobblies on that bike are
immediately surplus to requirements,...

Hi there.

I commute all year round and I often have to ride my MTB through a few
inches of snow or a couple of inches of that nasty brown grease-like
crap snow turns to when it is salted and not plowed. My MTB is a 24
gears derailleur equipped bicycle.

Depending on where you live you might just be *REAL* glad you have big
knobs on your tires when you go to ride home on your commuter bike and
discover that there are now a few inches of snow where there wasn't
any snow on your commute in that morning. In snow fenders *MIGHT not
be good unless there is a lot of clearance between them and the top of
the tire so that the snow/slush doesn't end up being compacted between
the tire and fender and acting as a drag brake all the way home. ON my
winter commuter I like to have the fender on the rear *ABOVE* the
brake-bridge like piece on my MTB. On the front I removed the the
lower bearing piece on the fork and place the fender there after
drilling it out so it fit snug and then reinstalled the bearing
assembly. That gives fantastic clearance between the tires and the
fenders and I've never had a problem since with snow/slush build up
there. I also made mud flaps that go from the fender to just above the
ground. These mud flaps are made from an old carbon fiber wheel disc
cover that attached to the wheel via Velcro fasteners. Even in the wet
my feet stay dry and the carbon fiber flaps have plenty of yield if
they strike a chunk of hard pack snow or ice fallen from a motor
vehicle wheel well.

To the OP, I don't know if converting that bike to an internal geared
hub would be economically feasible and guess it depends on what hub
you decide to use, the width of the dropouts and how much you are
willing to spend as well as if you are going to do the conversion or
pay a shop to do it for you. Were you thinking about lacing that rim
to the new internal hub? If you were buying a new wheel, you might
find it cheaper to buy a bike that already has the internal gear hub
you want.

Cheers from Peter

Sir Ridesalot wrote:

I commute all year round and I often have to ride my MTB through a few
inches of snow or a couple of inches of that nasty brown grease-like
crap snow turns to when it is salted and not plowed.

My advice is this: Move somewhere less horrible. Your cycle
maintenance won't be the only thing that gets a lot easier.