chain clean kit

I'm looking for recommendations for a kit to clean my
chain without removing it. Something quicker than
the tooth brush but that still works. Any suggestions?

On Sep 20, 8:39*am, "Duane Hebert" wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a kit to clean my
chain without removing it. *Something quicker than
the tooth brush but that still works. *Any suggestions?

Run a rag over it, then lube and ride. Cleaning something that's gonna
get covered in road grime within a couple kms again, is a chore for
those with OCD.

"Duane Hebert" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for recommendations for a kit to clean my
chain without removing it. Something quicker than
the tooth brush but that still works. Any suggestions?

Doesn't get much quicker than spraying some degreaser on a rag and running
the chain through it. Lube, light wipe, go ride.

Bill "sure, your friends will call you 'Pigpen' but..." S.

"Bill Sornson" wrote in message ...


"Duane Hebert" wrote in message
...
I'm looking for recommendations for a kit to clean my
chain without removing it. Something quicker than
the tooth brush but that still works. Any suggestions?

Doesn't get much quicker than spraying some degreaser on a rag and running
the chain through it. Lube, light wipe, go ride.

Seems like the general consensus but
I've seen a few of these snap on
things with brushes that you just run the chain through and it
gets cleaned. I wasn't sure how well that would work.

Just running it through a rag doesn't seem to get out the grunge
though. Normally when I would do a yearly wash, I would brush it.

New bike has a 10 speed and I've heard that Shimano
recommends replacement after 2500km. Guy at the LBS told
me yesterday that it would need replacing shortly as it was
about 70% worn and I'm at around 2500km. I've never
cleaned it.

Maybe just the wipe it off and replace it as needed is the simplest.
I don't want to have problems with chain rings and cassette though.

On Sep 20, 2:39*pm, "Duane Hebert" wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a kit to clean my
chain without removing it. *Something quicker than
the tooth brush but that still works. *Any suggestions?

Yes. Don't do it. Deepcleaning of any kind removes the lube that is in
the tiny spaces where it does the most good and substitutes air which
then keeps the new lube from reaching there. Serious cleaning,
perversely, paradoxically, cuts chain life.

Just wipe, or brush, off the dirt, relube, and go.

Andre Jute
"Cycling wisdom" is an oxymoron

On Sep 20, 9:39*am, "Duane Hebert" wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a kit to clean my
chain without removing it. *Something quicker than
the tooth brush but that still works. *Any suggestions?

I just use either a degreaser or laundry detergent in warm water in
the resevoir of a chain cleaner like park tool; just run it through a
few times, large ring and mid-cog; ( rinse the detergent off with warm
clean water ) wipe the chain dry with a clean rag - relube with a
finishline or similar chain lube one drop each pin- work it through a
few turns with the rag and clean up the excess that's left on the cogs
( leave it on for rainy season/ wet weather riding ). leaves a nice
smooth running picture perfect clean chain, just wipe it down after
the next ride or two to clean any grime that might get stuck on the
moist lube. never had any problems. keep the degreaser detergent out
of bb or hubs.

On 9/20/2010 6:39 AM, Duane Hebert wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a kit to clean my
chain without removing it. Something quicker than
the tooth brush but that still works. Any suggestions?

Good decision. The experts agree that cleaning the chain on the bike is
the best option for the following reasons:

1. The links are in motion as the pass through the solvent, with the
rollers spinning and the links flexing. You cannot obtain this sort of
link action with the chain off the bike in a bottle of solvent, or in a
parts cleaner. As Sheldon Brown writes, "The on-the-bike system has the
advantage that the cleaning machine flexes the links and spins the
rollers. This scrubbing action may do a better job of cleaning the innards."

2. The chain gets cleaner with each repetition of the process, with the
dirty solvent removed, the contaminants don't remain in the process.

3. Solvents such as kerosene do not leave rust-causing moisture in the
chain like water-based solvents do.

4. Keeping the chain on the bicycle eliminates weakening the chain by
rivet extraction. As Sheldon Brown writes, "...modern chains have rivets
that are tighter fitting into the chain plates. The new rivets are
difficult to remove and reinstall without damaging either the rivet or
the side plate."

5. It requires very little time.

6. The Chain Master avoids spattering solvent on the wheel and tire.


I would buy a Chain Master
("http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_172868_-1_201675_10000_200449")
and the Nashbar chain cleaner
("http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_124600_-1___".

You can see the chain cleaning and lubrication web site at
"http://www.nordicgroup.us/chain/".

Remember to never use a water based solvent to clean your chain.

On 9/20/2010 9:26 AM, Duane Hebert wrote:

Seems like the general consensus but
I've seen a few of these snap on
things with brushes that you just run the chain through and it
gets cleaned. I wasn't sure how well that would work.

It works very well. Better than removing the chain and soaking it.

Just running it through a rag doesn't seem to get out the grunge
though. Normally when I would do a yearly wash, I would brush it.

A rag cleans the outside of your chain, but not the insides of the links
and rollers.

New bike has a 10 speed and I've heard that Shimano recommends
replacement after 2500km. Guy at the LBS told
me yesterday that it would need replacing shortly as it was
about 70% worn and I'm at around 2500km. I've never
cleaned it.

Cleaning it would probably not have extended the life of the chain at all.

Maybe just the wipe it off and replace it as needed is the simplest.
I don't want to have problems with chain rings and cassette though.

A clean and properly lubricated chain works better, but it doesn't
necessarily extend the life of the chain.

On 9/20/2010 10:13 AM, raamman wrote:
On Sep 20, 9:39 am, "Duane wrote:
I'm looking for recommendations for a kit to clean my
chain without removing it. Something quicker than
the tooth brush but that still works. Any suggestions?

I just use either a degreaser or laundry detergent in warm water in
the resevoir of a chain cleaner like park tool; just run it through a
few times, large ring and mid-cog; ( rinse the detergent off with warm
clean water ) wipe the chain dry with a clean rag - relube with a
finishline or similar chain lube one drop each pin- work it through a
few turns with the rag and clean up the excess that's left on the cogs
( leave it on for rainy season/ wet weather riding ). leaves a nice
smooth running picture perfect clean chain, just wipe it down after
the next ride or two to clean any grime that might get stuck on the
moist lube. never had any problems. keep the degreaser detergent out
of bb or hubs.

Never use a water based cleaner on a chain.

"SMS" wrote in message ...
On 9/20/2010 9:26 AM, Duane Hebert wrote:
Just running it through a rag doesn't seem to get out the grunge
though. Normally when I would do a yearly wash, I would brush it.

A rag cleans the outside of your chain, but not the insides of the links
and rollers.

New bike has a 10 speed and I've heard that Shimano recommends
replacement after 2500km. Guy at the LBS told
me yesterday that it would need replacing shortly as it was
about 70% worn and I'm at around 2500km. I've never
cleaned it.

Cleaning it would probably not have extended the life of the chain at all.

No but the guy at the LBS was telling me that not cleaning could wear out
the cassette. Besides, making it work better is my main concern.