Stripped BB threads

A friend of mine has stripped threads on the adjustable cup side of his
English bottom bracket.
The advice I have given is to fit a Stronglight threadless BB but I have no
experience of these are they successful or is there any other answer

PK

In article ,
says...


A friend of mine has stripped threads on the adjustable cup side of his
English bottom bracket.
The advice I have given is to fit a Stronglight threadless BB but I have no
experience of these are they successful or is there any other answer

Take it to a shop with the proper tools to make the frame italian threaded.
-------------
Alex

peter.kidwell wrote:

A friend of mine has stripped threads on the adjustable cup side of his
English bottom bracket.
The advice I have given is to fit a Stronglight threadless BB but I have no
experience of these are they successful or is there any other answer

Have someone run a BB tap through it first - it may be salvageable. If
this fails then a threadless BB is the easiest and neatest solution.

Of course, if it's a *really* fine lugged steel frame you could have a
new BB shell brazed in - it costs 90-110UKP over here, plus the
inevitable respray.

From: Zog The Undeniable

Have someone run a BB tap through it first - it may be salvageable.

That's the thing to try first, by someone using real thread cutting oil (such
as Rigid) and a good tap. Success also depends on which BB is being used. I had
a stripper that worked fine for years with Campy steel cups, not at all with
Phil rings.

If this fails then a threadless BB is the easiest and neatest solution.

I'm using a Mavic threadless BB with a Campy C Rec crank that has done just
fine, with the axle nominally being a few mm's too long (somewhat moveable
side-to-side). The BB shell must be (correctly) chamfered for the tapered cones
to work; there is a "Mavic tool" for this job. I understand that the Mavic BB's
are out of production but that Stronglight makes an identical setup. --TP

peter.kidwell wrote:

A friend of mine has stripped threads on the adjustable cup side of his
English bottom bracket.
The advice I have given is to fit a Stronglight threadless BB but I have no
experience of these are they successful or is there any other answer

Those work fine if you can get the right dimensions. Like
the Mavic and KSS units, the two sides screw together,
obviating the frame threads.

It's also straightforward to fill in new metal and cut a
fresh clean thread in a steel frame but you'll necessarily
lose paint .

Sort of like this but inside out:
http://www.yellowjersey.org/FORKTHRD.JPG

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

It's also straightforward to fill in new metal and cut a
fresh clean thread in a steel frame but you'll necessarily
lose paint .

Obviously, your threaded steerer example is different, but why would one
lose paint on a BB shell from a braze-fill? Does the brazing material spill
over to the outside of the BB shell? Can it be brazed work-side-up so that
the brazing stuff goes down to the other side of the BB (also easily tapped,
no?)?

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

"peter.kidwell" wrote in message
...
A friend of mine has stripped threads on the adjustable cup side of his
English bottom bracket.
The advice I have given is to fit a Stronglight threadless BB but I have
no experience of these are they successful or is there any other answer

PK


Some of my cycling buddies have said to use oversize cups, are these still
available.
The frame is a Woodrupp (Small English Builder) Renolds 531 and very nice
too.

PK

Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:

Obviously, your threaded steerer example is different, but why would one
lose paint on a BB shell from a braze-fill? Does the brazing material spill
over to the outside of the BB shell? Can it be brazed work-side-up so that
the brazing stuff goes down to the other side of the BB (also easily tapped,
no?)?

I think playing the flame of a brazing torch on the BB shell may ruin
the fine finish ;-)

"Zog The Undeniable" wrote in message
news:4182109f.0@entanet...
Phil, Squid-in-Training wrote:

Obviously, your threaded steerer example is different, but
why would one
lose paint on a BB shell from a braze-fill? Does the brazing
material spill
over to the outside of the BB shell? Can it be brazed
work-side-up so that
the brazing stuff goes down to the other side of the BB (also
easily tapped,
no?)?

I think playing the flame of a brazing torch on the BB shell
may ruin
the fine finish ;-)

But this does bring up a good point. Since it is just thread
repair, maybe a liquid metal or some wonder-bondo product could
be used instead of brass. This probably would gum up the tap,
but what the heck, you would save your paint. I do not know if
there is anything on the market tough enough to take a lasting
thread, but wonder products seem to appear on a daily basis. --
Jay Beattie.

From: "Jay Beattie"

But this does bring up a good point. Since it is just thread
repair, maybe a liquid metal or some wonder-bondo product could
be used instead of brass. This probably would gum up the tap,
but what the heck, you would save your paint. I do not know if
there is anything on the market tough enough to take a lasting
thread, but wonder products seem to appear on a daily basis. --

J-B Weld? g