Recalcitrant UG freehub, lube?

Folks,

The old Shimano 600 (old UG system) freehub on my road bike shows a
tendency of occasionally refusing to "free-hub", wants to drive the
chain. This manifests itself by occasionally driving the pedals when
pushing the bike and when rolling with the pedals held still there's the
very occasional THWOCK where the top of the chain dips down and the
derailleur tensions up for a split second.

I'd like to keep using it until the current (new) sprockets are through,
then maybe buy a whole new rear wheel. Ideally a whole new titanium
cyclocross bike but then my wife would read me the riot act :-)

Is there a way to nurse it along? Regular chainsaw oil didn't want to do
the trick. Tri-Flow maybe? Asking here before I mess something up and
make it worse than it already is.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Monday, September 21, 2015 at 6:18:06 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

The old Shimano 600 (old UG system) freehub on my road bike shows a
tendency of occasionally refusing to "free-hub", wants to drive the
chain. This manifests itself by occasionally driving the pedals when
pushing the bike and when rolling with the pedals held still there's the
very occasional THWOCK where the top of the chain dips down and the
derailleur tensions up for a split second.

I'd like to keep using it until the current (new) sprockets are through,
then maybe buy a whole new rear wheel. Ideally a whole new titanium
cyclocross bike but then my wife would read me the riot act :-)

Is there a way to nurse it along? Regular chainsaw oil didn't want to do
the trick. Tri-Flow maybe? Asking here before I mess something up and
make it worse than it already is.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

drop it in a can of diesel fuel ...

On 9/21/2015 5:18 PM, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

The old Shimano 600 (old UG system) freehub on my road bike
shows a tendency of occasionally refusing to "free-hub",
wants to drive the chain. This manifests itself by
occasionally driving the pedals when pushing the bike and
when rolling with the pedals held still there's the very
occasional THWOCK where the top of the chain dips down and
the derailleur tensions up for a split second.

I'd like to keep using it until the current (new) sprockets
are through, then maybe buy a whole new rear wheel. Ideally
a whole new titanium cyclocross bike but then my wife would
read me the riot act :-)

Is there a way to nurse it along? Regular chainsaw oil
didn't want to do the trick. Tri-Flow maybe? Asking here
before I mess something up and make it worse than it already
is.


Remove the axle set and flush the body through thoroughly
with a light oil or an oily cleaner (like TriFlow).
Compressed air is helpful. If it spins nicely and visible
crud comes out, you're probably OK. Oil freehub body with a
good machine oil, clean hub, rebuild axle assembly with new
balls and fresh grease.

If, after cleaning, the body spins irregularly or feels
rough or catches randomly, it likely has a broken pawl which
on that system I would deem fatal. Buy a modern wheel. Or at
the very least salvage a less than 20 year old hub for it.
New wheels are surprisingly cheap at the basic end.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2015-09-21 3:55 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/21/2015 5:18 PM, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

The old Shimano 600 (old UG system) freehub on my road bike
shows a tendency of occasionally refusing to "free-hub",
wants to drive the chain. This manifests itself by
occasionally driving the pedals when pushing the bike and
when rolling with the pedals held still there's the very
occasional THWOCK where the top of the chain dips down and
the derailleur tensions up for a split second.

I'd like to keep using it until the current (new) sprockets
are through, then maybe buy a whole new rear wheel. Ideally
a whole new titanium cyclocross bike but then my wife would
read me the riot act :-)

Is there a way to nurse it along? Regular chainsaw oil
didn't want to do the trick. Tri-Flow maybe? Asking here
before I mess something up and make it worse than it already
is.


Remove the axle set and flush the body through thoroughly with a light
oil or an oily cleaner (like TriFlow). Compressed air is helpful. If it
spins nicely and visible crud comes out, you're probably OK. Oil freehub
body with a good machine oil, clean hub, rebuild axle assembly with new
balls and fresh grease.

If, after cleaning, the body spins irregularly or feels rough or catches
randomly, it likely has a broken pawl which on that system I would deem
fatal. Buy a modern wheel. Or at the very least salvage a less than 20
year old hub for it. New wheels are surprisingly cheap at the basic end.


Thanks, Andrew. Looks like a new wheel then. I've tried loosening the
nuts to remove the axle. No luck there. Maybe the transport across an
ocean many moons ago has rusted it all in place. It's unbelievable what
kind of corrosion can happen even inside a sea container.

The tick-tick-tick sound is regular when spinning it backwards. But it
does have one tough spot per revolution where it needs to be pushed. It
feels like a bearing that is giving up.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Monday, September 21, 2015 at 7:39:37 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-21 3:55 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/21/2015 5:18 PM, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

The old Shimano 600 (old UG system) freehub on my road bike
shows a tendency of occasionally refusing to "free-hub",
wants to drive the chain. This manifests itself by
occasionally driving the pedals when pushing the bike and
when rolling with the pedals held still there's the very
occasional THWOCK where the top of the chain dips down and
the derailleur tensions up for a split second.

I'd like to keep using it until the current (new) sprockets
are through, then maybe buy a whole new rear wheel. Ideally
a whole new titanium cyclocross bike but then my wife would
read me the riot act :-)

Is there a way to nurse it along? Regular chainsaw oil
didn't want to do the trick. Tri-Flow maybe? Asking here
before I mess something up and make it worse than it already
is.


Remove the axle set and flush the body through thoroughly with a light
oil or an oily cleaner (like TriFlow). Compressed air is helpful. If it
spins nicely and visible crud comes out, you're probably OK. Oil freehub
body with a good machine oil, clean hub, rebuild axle assembly with new
balls and fresh grease.

If, after cleaning, the body spins irregularly or feels rough or catches
randomly, it likely has a broken pawl which on that system I would deem
fatal. Buy a modern wheel. Or at the very least salvage a less than 20
year old hub for it. New wheels are surprisingly cheap at the basic end..


Thanks, Andrew. Looks like a new wheel then. I've tried loosening the
nuts to remove the axle. No luck there. Maybe the transport across an
ocean many moons ago has rusted it all in place. It's unbelievable what
kind of corrosion can happen even inside a sea container.

The tick-tick-tick sound is regular when spinning it backwards. But it
does have one tough spot per revolution where it needs to be pushed. It
feels like a bearing that is giving up.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

How many Uniglide cassettes do you have?

Remove the axle and check the wheel bearings. with the axle out you can also remove the Uniglide cassette body. If it's indeed your Ubiglide body that's toast then let us know the number of cigs you had on it. I might have another Uniglide body I can send you or even a cross-over one that will take either a Uniglide cassette with a screw on high cog or a Hyperglide cassette with a screw on retainer. The crossover body has both external and internal threads. An image of the hub without the body on it will show me if what I have will fit your hub.

Good luck and cheers

On 2015-09-21 11:14 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, September 21, 2015 at 7:39:37 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-21 3:55 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/21/2015 5:18 PM, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

The old Shimano 600 (old UG system) freehub on my road bike
shows a tendency of occasionally refusing to "free-hub", wants
to drive the chain. This manifests itself by occasionally
driving the pedals when pushing the bike and when rolling with
the pedals held still there's the very occasional THWOCK where
the top of the chain dips down and the derailleur tensions up
for a split second.

I'd like to keep using it until the current (new) sprockets are
through, then maybe buy a whole new rear wheel. Ideally a whole
new titanium cyclocross bike but then my wife would read me the
riot act :-)

Is there a way to nurse it along? Regular chainsaw oil didn't
want to do the trick. Tri-Flow maybe? Asking here before I mess
something up and make it worse than it already is.


Remove the axle set and flush the body through thoroughly with a
light oil or an oily cleaner (like TriFlow). Compressed air is
helpful. If it spins nicely and visible crud comes out, you're
probably OK. Oil freehub body with a good machine oil, clean hub,
rebuild axle assembly with new balls and fresh grease.

If, after cleaning, the body spins irregularly or feels rough or
catches randomly, it likely has a broken pawl which on that
system I would deem fatal. Buy a modern wheel. Or at the very
least salvage a less than 20 year old hub for it. New wheels are
surprisingly cheap at the basic end.


Thanks, Andrew. Looks like a new wheel then. I've tried loosening
the nuts to remove the axle. No luck there. Maybe the transport
across an ocean many moons ago has rusted it all in place. It's
unbelievable what kind of corrosion can happen even inside a sea
container.

The tick-tick-tick sound is regular when spinning it backwards. But
it does have one tough spot per revolution where it needs to be
pushed. It feels like a bearing that is giving up.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

How many Uniglide cassettes do you have?


None really, wore them all down. What I did is hack a 7-speed MTB
cassette, ground the offending wide splines down so they fit UG and
stacked the desired assortment of sprockets. I could easily make a HG
out of it again. Just didn't want to tear it all down again because the
outer cog is really hard to get off.


Remove the axle and check the wheel bearings. with the axle out you
can also remove the Uniglide cassette body. ...


That's the problem. I tried my darndest and the nuts on the axle are
solidly corroded in place. Probably courtesy of a move across the
Atlantic in winter weather.


... If it's indeed your
Ubiglide body that's toast then let us know the number of cigs you
had on it.


Cigs? I don't smoke :-)


... I might have another Uniglide body I can send you or even
a cross-over one that will take either a Uniglide cassette with a
screw on high cog or a Hyperglide cassette with a screw on retainer.
The crossover body has both external and internal threads. An image
of the hub without the body on it will show me if what I have will
fit your hub.

Good luck and cheers


Thanks, Sir, that is very kind. But right now I just want to nurse it
along. Soon I need a new rear rim as well because it's getting ground
down from the braking in the mountainous region here. Then I'll likely
buy an Aeromax or Vuelta wheel set. I'll have to find something with not
so deep rims though because my extra thick tubes don't have long valve
stems.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 12:46:43 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-21 11:14 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Monday, September 21, 2015 at 7:39:37 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-21 3:55 PM, AMuzi wrote:
On 9/21/2015 5:18 PM, Joerg wrote:
Folks,

The old Shimano 600 (old UG system) freehub on my road bike
shows a tendency of occasionally refusing to "free-hub", wants
to drive the chain. This manifests itself by occasionally
driving the pedals when pushing the bike and when rolling with
the pedals held still there's the very occasional THWOCK where
the top of the chain dips down and the derailleur tensions up
for a split second.

I'd like to keep using it until the current (new) sprockets are
through, then maybe buy a whole new rear wheel. Ideally a whole
new titanium cyclocross bike but then my wife would read me the
riot act :-)

Is there a way to nurse it along? Regular chainsaw oil didn't
want to do the trick. Tri-Flow maybe? Asking here before I mess
something up and make it worse than it already is.


Remove the axle set and flush the body through thoroughly with a
light oil or an oily cleaner (like TriFlow). Compressed air is
helpful. If it spins nicely and visible crud comes out, you're
probably OK. Oil freehub body with a good machine oil, clean hub,
rebuild axle assembly with new balls and fresh grease.

If, after cleaning, the body spins irregularly or feels rough or
catches randomly, it likely has a broken pawl which on that
system I would deem fatal. Buy a modern wheel. Or at the very
least salvage a less than 20 year old hub for it. New wheels are
surprisingly cheap at the basic end.


Thanks, Andrew. Looks like a new wheel then. I've tried loosening
the nuts to remove the axle. No luck there. Maybe the transport
across an ocean many moons ago has rusted it all in place. It's
unbelievable what kind of corrosion can happen even inside a sea
container.

The tick-tick-tick sound is regular when spinning it backwards. But
it does have one tough spot per revolution where it needs to be
pushed. It feels like a bearing that is giving up.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

How many Uniglide cassettes do you have?


None really, wore them all down. What I did is hack a 7-speed MTB
cassette, ground the offending wide splines down so they fit UG and
stacked the desired assortment of sprockets. I could easily make a HG
out of it again. Just didn't want to tear it all down again because the
outer cog is really hard to get off.


Remove the axle and check the wheel bearings. with the axle out you
can also remove the Uniglide cassette body. ...


That's the problem. I tried my darndest and the nuts on the axle are
solidly corroded in place. Probably courtesy of a move across the
Atlantic in winter weather.


... If it's indeed your
Ubiglide body that's toast then let us know the number of cigs you
had on it.


Cigs? I don't smoke :-)


... I might have another Uniglide body I can send you or even
a cross-over one that will take either a Uniglide cassette with a
screw on high cog or a Hyperglide cassette with a screw on retainer.
The crossover body has both external and internal threads. An image
of the hub without the body on it will show me if what I have will
fit your hub.

Good luck and cheers


Thanks, Sir, that is very kind. But right now I just want to nurse it
along. Soon I need a new rear rim as well because it's getting ground
down from the braking in the mountainous region here. Then I'll likely
buy an Aeromax or Vuelta wheel set. I'll have to find something with not
so deep rims though because my extra thick tubes don't have long valve
stems.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Well if you're modifying hyperglide cogs you might as well get a proper Hyperglide body. sounds like a new wheel will be the easiest and least frustrating way to go.

BTW, you did hold the cone with a cone wrench when you tried to remove the lock nut? I only ask that because i've seen a lot of people try to remove both at the same time. when I use my cone wrench they marvel at how easy it is.

cheers and good luck

On 2015-09-22 11:17 AM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 12:46:43 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2015-09-21 11:14 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

[...]

... I might have another Uniglide body I can send you or even a
cross-over one that will take either a Uniglide cassette with a
screw on high cog or a Hyperglide cassette with a screw on
retainer. The crossover body has both external and internal
threads. An image of the hub without the body on it will show me
if what I have will fit your hub.

Good luck and cheers


Thanks, Sir, that is very kind. But right now I just want to nurse
it along. Soon I need a new rear rim as well because it's getting
ground down from the braking in the mountainous region here. Then
I'll likely buy an Aeromax or Vuelta wheel set. I'll have to find
something with not so deep rims though because my extra thick tubes
don't have long valve stems.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Well if you're modifying hyperglide cogs you might as well get a
proper Hyperglide body. sounds like a new wheel will be the easiest
and least frustrating way to go.


Yes, sounds like it.


BTW, you did hold the cone with a cone wrench when you tried to
remove the lock nut? I only ask that because i've seen a lot of
people try to remove both at the same time. when I use my cone wrench
they marvel at how easy it is.


I broke two cone wrenches :-(

Luckily this time without involuntary blood flow.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

drain the hub of diesel after a 3 day soak

allow to dry

careful not to cover it with soot or airborne potash

drop into a can of zero weight Mobil

heat to hot abt 140-150 degrees for 1 hour

remove and cool

install in reverse odor

On 9/22/2015 4:55 PM, wrote:
drain the hub of diesel after a 3 day soak

allow to dry

careful not to cover it with soot or airborne potash

drop into a can of zero weight Mobil

heat to hot abt 140-150 degrees for 1 hour

remove and cool

install in reverse odor


None of that will affect a broken pawl ( for which those
bodies are notorious) in any way.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971