How to properly set up a uni

Danny Colyer wrote:
But *not* at both ends. Greasing the pedal threads is good, greasing
the tapers is bad (it can allow you to screw the cranks on too tight,
which can cause them to crack).

This is assuming a standard square taper axle, of course.



For standard square taper (aka cotterless), the received wisdom is that
both the square hole in the crank and the taper on the axle -should -be
cleaned, then greased. Then there is a recommended torque for
tightening the crank nuts. I don't remember how much because I don't
have a torque wrench anyway (maybe it was 40 lb.ft?). I know they
should be "quite tight". I don't think you would easily crack the
cranks by greasing and then overtightening them, never happened to me
anyway.

What's mo too little tightening of the crank nut is a potential
cause of failure, since the crank can work loose during riding.

Advice for hungry4uni: after mounting cranks, check the tightness of
the nuts regularly, as the cranks need to 'set' on the axle. Especially
with aluminium cranks, you need many tightenings before the cranks
stays on permanently. And: don't ride with a loose crank! You will
probably ruin the crank, or worse still: the axle.


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Klaas Bil
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Klaas Bil wrote:
don't ride with a loose crank! You will probably ruin the crank, or
worse still: the axle.

Or, worse still again, your knee. Cranks and axles are easily
replaced.

13 years ago I rode 5 miles on a loose crank. I was able to replace
the cranks and axle, but I had twinges in my knee for several years
afterwards. Even now I get a sore knee if I cycle more than about 70
miles.


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"He who dares not offend cannot be honest." - Thomas Paine
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Which way do I turn each pedal to take it off.


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Unicycle-Emele

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maestro8 wrote:
I'd rather watch you gas, brake, dip, dip.
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Someone help. I Just got some blue twisted pc's


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Unicycle-Emele

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'My video' (http://youtube.com/watch?v=cvBUcQ9QL_8)
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maestro8 wrote:
I'd rather watch you gas, brake, dip, dip.
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Unicycle-Emele;1157148 wrote:
Which way do I turn each pedal to take it off.

On pedal or crank with "R" you unscrew normally. On the "L" side you
turn the other way. If unsure, start gently before applying excessive
amounts of force.


--
johnfoss

John Foss
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The big thing to note about pedals, other than L and R, is that you
should always screw them in at least two full turns by hand, before
using a wrench. Especially on the aluminum Qu-Ax cranks, which are
supremely easy to cross-thread and strip.


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tholub
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johnfoss;1157165 wrote:
On pedal or crank with "R" you unscrew normally. On the "L" side you
turn the other way. If unsure, start gently before applying excessive
amounts of force.


And just to be su what John calls 'normally", is if you turn the
pedal counterclockwise when looking at the pedal from the "outside".


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Klaas Bil
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johnfoss;1157165 wrote:
On pedal or crank with "R" you unscrew normally. On the "L" side you
turn the other way. If unsure, start gently before applying excessive
amounts of force.


This is what I do because I can never rember which one is counter
clockwise and which one isn't. Ohhh, and don't tighten it real tight
when you put it on, it will tighten itself.


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Michaelgoround
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Michaelgoround;1157240 wrote:
This is what I do because I can never rember which one is counter
clockwise and which one isn't. Ohhh, and don't tighten it real tight
when you put it on, it will tighten itself.



One thing to remember is that both pedals turn in the same direction,
when looked at from above. So I just stand over the wheel, and
tighten/loosen the pedals forwards or backwards.


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As tholub suggested. It is a good idea to start your pedals - and I
believe all machine bolts - by hand at first. By starting your bolts by
hand you can "feel" if they are screwing in correctly (easily at first)
or if they are binding at first (not screwing in at all or very hard)
possibly stripping.

There are three key things to remember when screwing things together.

1. Don't force it. If needed, back it out and try again or try the
same bolt in a different hole.

2. If more than two bolts or screws hold the same piece down/together
*don't* tighten one all the way then the others. Tighten them together.
(i.e. your two bearing housing bolts.. tighten one about 1/4 of the
way.. then the other about 1/2 way.. then re-tighten first. Back and
forth until it is tight. This spreads the load out and keeps you from
bending a bolt or making it difficult to put the second bolt in once the
first is tight.

3. Apply the proper torque. Some things require more torque than
others. This is really learned from experience or by using a torque
wrench(if you know the proper torque for the bolt) Don't stress about
this too much.. but just realize if you screw down a piece of plastic
really hard.. it might crack(so take it easy sometimes).. and don't just
lightly tighten your cranks like they are a plastic reflector(they are
strong connections, designed to take a heavy load, and need more torque)
Generally, the bigger the bolt, the more torque the bolt -may- need.

As someone else said.. don't over tighten your bearing housing bolts.


Good luck and check all the nuts and bolts to make sure they are not
loose after/during the first few rides.


--
Tiki Pirate
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