My KH/Schlumpf hub slipped on a downshift and how to oil the hub...

I probably didn't have enough torque in the crank bolts, because I was
trying to be careful when installing, because these were the
replacement bolts I got after one of the initial bolt heads stripped
out. But the on the road, I didn't really have the tools to get enough
torque into the bolt; I had to keep tightening the crank every few
miles (which is annoying on the Schlumpf due to the shifting button).
I'm going to get a good long wrench, some degreaser and some Loctite
together to hopefully make things solid.

It is clear that loose cranks are an extremely bad thing on a
Schlumpf.

There's often some neutral mode when I shift on the road, but I haven't
had it get stuck in that mode. I did, however, have it get stuck in
neutral a couple of times when not on the uni; I had pushed the button
to shift to low gear in preparation for mounting, and the wheel kept
moving but the cranks didn't. This was on the Cañada Road ride, I was
with Corbin at the time. So it's clearly possible for a shift to
result in coasting; it probably depends on a combination of how far you
push the button in, combined with how much pressure you have on the
pedals at the time.

Aside: Mike and I did an approximation of the Grizzly Peak Century,
doing about 100km with an assload of climbing (probably between 1500
and 2000 meters). My first century on uni! Photos at
http://www.flickr.com/gp/83189681@N00/T48MJS.

'[image:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3191/2466334267_93ac118c20.jpg]'
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/tholub/2466334267/)

'[image:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3146/2467203784_af45c6d1a2.jpg]'
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/tholub/2467203784/)


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That sure looks like some fun riding ! how long does it take to cover
that much ground an a 36


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tholub wrote:

Aside: Mike and I did an approximation of the Grizzly Peak Century,
doing about 100km with an assload of climbing (probably between 1500
and 2000 meters). My first century on uni!


Awesome.


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There are great cycling roads all over the Bay Area.

Yesterday's ride took us almost 9 hours start to finish, although we
stopped a lot, had lunch at a local deli, and had a few mechanical
problems (mostly this dang crank). The hilliness also kept our rolling
speed a lot lower than it was during last week's Napa ride, where we
averaged over 13mph in RTL simulation mode (relaying) on our geared 29
and 36.


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I lived in cali for a few years and the bay area is very nice. I was in
the Riverside,Chino area and that was before I rode UNI. Michigan has
some nice areas that when i get my coker or 29 i look forward to
riding.The only downside in michigan is the cold weather + snow.


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Hmm- i can see how scary a period of freewheeling must be when you don't
expect it. But at the same time i can't help but think of the
possibilities of a KH/shlumpf with an extra gear, or clutch position
for coasting on downhills...
Maybe it is just me but most of my unicycling dreams have mee riding a
uni at really fast pace that can also freewheel when i will it to-
wierd but maybe worth a discussion? would a caliper brake give a rider
enough control to negotiate a coast on a desent?

mark


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tholub wrote:

It is clear that loose cranks are an extremely bad thing on a
Schlumpf.




Yeah, I had a *lot* of trouble on that first long distance ride that we
did. After that ride, I torqued them down to 25 ft-lbs (I think that
was it, but maybe 30). Since then, they haven't come loose at all!

The torque wrench was essential. I wasn't getting it nearly tight
enough with the provided allen wrench.

corbin


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napalm wrote:
Hmm- i can see how scary a period of freewheeling must be when you don't
expect it. But at the same time i can't help but think of the
possibilities of a KH/shlumpf with an extra gear, or clutch position
for coasting on downhills...
Maybe it is just me but most of my unicycling dreams have mee riding a
uni at really fast pace that can also freewheel when i will it to-
wierd but maybe worth a discussion? would a caliper brake give a rider
enough control to negotiate a coast on a desent?




Can you coast on a normal unicycle? Or, brake-assisted coasting? If so,
then a free-wheeling hub might work for you. If not...then it won't.

corbin


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Coasting is hard enough when you're doing it intentionally (I'm guessing
since I can't actually coast).

If you find yourself suddenly freewheeling at speed, you're going to go
down in an unpredictable way, and you're probably going to get hurt
(eg. Ken Looi's compound fracture).

Whether or not you could use a caliper brake to intentionally coast at
speed is beyond my skill and definitely beyond my courage!


napalm wrote:
Hmm- i can see how scary a period of freewheeling must be when you don't
expect it. But at the same time i can't help but think of the
possibilities of a KH/shlumpf with an extra gear, or clutch position
for coasting on downhills...
Maybe it is just me but most of my unicycling dreams have mee riding a
uni at really fast pace that can also freewheel when i will it to-
wierd but maybe worth a discussion? would a caliper brake give a rider
enough control to negotiate a coast on a desent?

mark


--
mscalisi

Unicycle for (reducing the) Buddha
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No, you can't coast with a brake. If you use the brake it's no longer
coasting. when you use your foot, we call it gliding. I'd still think
of it as gliding but if more people started doing it we'd probably need
a new name for it.

Coasting on a freewheeling unicycle is arguably easier than doing it on
a regular one. However *shifting into* a freewheeling mode adds a level
of difficulty that would make the learning curve massively steeper. I
know this from shifting on my borrowed Schlumpf 36. Upshifts are almost
always fine, but downshifts usually give me a brief period of
freewheeling, which I'm just not prepared to ride out of when combined
with the awkward foot position of pushing the shift button.


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johnfoss

John Foss
Email: "jfoss" at "unicycling.com" -- www.unicycling.com
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