Torque recommendations

I'm thinking of buying a torque wrench to use with my Trek 5200 road
bike. I have a few components on my bike that I can't find the torque
recommendations for. For example, my FSA K-Wing handlebars. I
searched the FSA website but couldn't find anything. Also, what are
the recommended torque settings for the seatpost clamp on a carbon
fibre bike?

And while I'm asking, I notice some components require more torque
than others (eg. the Shimano cassette lock nut requires around 50Nm,
whereas attaching the brake caliper to the frame only requires approx.
8Nm). Is there a torque wrench available that can be set to provide a
range of torque? Or do I need to buy two torque wrenches, one for the
stuff requiring lots of torque, another for stuff requiring very
little torque?



J. Spaceman

hiya hiya hiya

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=88

try bolt nuts in question - in real time - with blue loctite from
WalMort. find a used metal plate, drill hole(s)....

position is important. try for balance thru the body from feet to
hands. like walking on rice paper.

On Mar 22, 6:13*pm, Jason Spaceman
wrote:
I'm thinking of buying a torque wrench to use with my Trek 5200 road
bike. *I have a few components on my bike that I can't find the torque
recommendations for. *For example, my FSA K-Wing handlebars. *I
searched the FSA website but couldn't find anything. *Also, what are
the recommended torque settings for the seatpost clamp on a carbon
fibre bike? *

And while I'm asking, I notice some components require more torque
than others (eg. the Shimano cassette lock nut requires around 50Nm,
whereas attaching the brake caliper to the frame only requires approx.
8Nm). *Is there a torque wrench available that can be set to provide a
range of torque? *Or do I need to buy two torque wrenches, one for the
stuff requiring lots of torque, another for stuff requiring very
little torque?

J. Spaceman

Try the Park Tool site. They have recommended torques for various
bicycle fasteners, IIRC. -- Jay Beattie.

Jason Spaceman wrote:
I'm thinking of buying a torque wrench to use with my Trek 5200 road
bike. I have a few components on my bike that I can't find the torque
recommendations for. For example, my FSA K-Wing handlebars. I
searched the FSA website but couldn't find anything. Also, what are
the recommended torque settings for the seatpost clamp on a carbon
fibre bike?

And while I'm asking, I notice some components require more torque
than others (eg. the Shimano cassette lock nut requires around 50Nm,
whereas attaching the brake caliper to the frame only requires approx.
8Nm). Is there a torque wrench available that can be set to provide a
range of torque? Or do I need to buy two torque wrenches, one for the
stuff requiring lots of torque, another for stuff requiring very
little torque?

you need more than one - no torque wrench is accurate though the kind of
range described. for your application, i recommend bending beam
wrenches because they're cheap, don't need calibration and are robust.
clicking wrenches can be deceptive in the hands of unpracticed users and
give out-of-spec fastenings.

you can get bending beams at sears cheaper than you can from park. in
some applications, like cylinder heads with blind bolt holes, benders
are the preferred tool because they can be held at torque while
back-pressure on the blind thread relieves. clickers click, then the
bolt back pressure relieves, and the bolt is actually torqued too low.
they're also advisable of something like the older campy cassettes with
resin spacers. the resin relaxes a little on tightening so the lock
ring needs to be held at torque for a moment or two and "followed around".

fyi, clickers are intended primarily for applications where the operator
has restricted access and can't see a gauge dial like under a car or low
down lug nuts, etc. good ones are very expensive. cheap ones simply
cannot be trusted for any length of time.

On Mar 23, 7:12*pm, Phil W Lee phil(at)lee-family(dot)me(dot)uk
wrote:

OTOH, checking the calibration is a trivial job - all you need is a
known weight and a ruler - several different weights if you want to
check across the range.
As long as any error is repeatable, just note the offset.
It's only when errors become variable that the wrench is beyond use.

Care to describe the method, Phil? -- AJ

Andre Jute schreef:
On Mar 23, 7:12 pm, Phil W Lee phil(at)lee-family(dot)me(dot)uk
wrote:

OTOH, checking the calibration is a trivial job - all you need is a
known weight and a ruler - several different weights if you want to
check across the range.
As long as any error is repeatable, just note the offset.
It's only when errors become variable that the wrench is beyond use.

Care to describe the method, Phil? -- AJ

Torque = Force x Distance

Put the socket in a vice and hang a bucket with water or other weight at
a known distance. Fill the bucket with water until the wrench clicks.
Lou

Phil W Lee wrote:
jim beam considered Sun, 22 Mar 2009
20:18:50 -0700 the perfect time to write:

Jason Spaceman wrote:
I'm thinking of buying a torque wrench to use with my Trek 5200 road
bike. I have a few components on my bike that I can't find the torque
recommendations for. For example, my FSA K-Wing handlebars. I
searched the FSA website but couldn't find anything. Also, what are
the recommended torque settings for the seatpost clamp on a carbon
fibre bike?

And while I'm asking, I notice some components require more torque
than others (eg. the Shimano cassette lock nut requires around 50Nm,
whereas attaching the brake caliper to the frame only requires approx.
8Nm). Is there a torque wrench available that can be set to provide a
range of torque? Or do I need to buy two torque wrenches, one for the
stuff requiring lots of torque, another for stuff requiring very
little torque?
you need more than one - no torque wrench is accurate though the kind of
range described. for your application, i recommend bending beam
wrenches because they're cheap, don't need calibration and are robust.
clicking wrenches can be deceptive in the hands of unpracticed users and
give out-of-spec fastenings.

you can get bending beams at sears cheaper than you can from park. in
some applications, like cylinder heads with blind bolt holes, benders
are the preferred tool because they can be held at torque while
back-pressure on the blind thread relieves. clickers click, then the
bolt back pressure relieves, and the bolt is actually torqued too low.
they're also advisable of something like the older campy cassettes with
resin spacers. the resin relaxes a little on tightening so the lock
ring needs to be held at torque for a moment or two and "followed around".

fyi, clickers are intended primarily for applications where the operator
has restricted access and can't see a gauge dial like under a car or low
down lug nuts, etc. good ones are very expensive. cheap ones simply
cannot be trusted for any length of time.

OTOH, checking the calibration is a trivial job - all you need is a
known weight and a ruler - several different weights if you want to
check across the range.

nope, far from it. f=ma remember? any momentum on that weight and you
have a false reading.


As long as any error is repeatable, just note the offset.
It's only when errors become variable that the wrench is beyond use.

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 01:21:38 +0000, Phil W Lee
phil(at)lee-family(dot)me(dot)uk wrote:

Lou Holtman considered Mon, 23 Mar 2009
22:16:41 +0100 the perfect time to write:

Andre Jute schreef:
On Mar 23, 7:12 pm, Phil W Lee phil(at)lee-family(dot)me(dot)uk
wrote:

OTOH, checking the calibration is a trivial job - all you need is a
known weight and a ruler - several different weights if you want to
check across the range.
As long as any error is repeatable, just note the offset.
It's only when errors become variable that the wrench is beyond use.

Care to describe the method, Phil? -- AJ

Torque = Force x Distance

Put the socket in a vice and hang a bucket with water or other weight at
a known distance. Fill the bucket with water until the wrench clicks.
Lou
Yep.
Then weigh the bucket and multiply by the distance.
A small blob of blu-tac will stop the bucket sliding off and spilling
all the water when the wrench clicks (DAMHIKTIJDOK?)
You do need to make sure that the arm is horizontal, so the force
applied by the bucket is perpendicular to it.
For checking an automotive scale one at higher torque, you may need a
big bucket
(to measure 120 ft/lbs at a 12" distance from the fulcrum, you're
going to need 12 imperial gallons minus the weight of the bucket).
If you're really picky, you'll include the proportion of the weight of
the wrench that bears down on the measurement point when the wrench is
supported by that and the socket.
I was able to determine that both my wrenches had a larger useable
range than marked (although I probably wouldn't use them much above
the marked scale as other parts might break).
Put a "cheater handle" on it and it only needs 6 gallons - unless you
use a LONG cheater handle (peice of pipe over the end of the handle).
Measure accurately or the calibration will be off.

On Mar 23, 7:44*pm, jim beam wrote:

OTOH, checking the calibration is a trivial job - all you need is a
known weight and a ruler - several different weights if you want to
check across the range.

nope, far from it. *f=ma remember? *any momentum on that weight and you
have a false reading.


Yep. It's really hard to resist the urge to hurl the weight at the
wrench from ten feet away as opposed to just placing the weight down
in position.

Phil W Lee wrote:
jim beam considered Mon, 23 Mar 2009
17:44:51 -0700 the perfect time to write:

Phil W Lee wrote:
jim beam considered Sun, 22 Mar 2009
20:18:50 -0700 the perfect time to write:

Jason Spaceman wrote:
I'm thinking of buying a torque wrench to use with my Trek 5200 road
bike. I have a few components on my bike that I can't find the torque
recommendations for. For example, my FSA K-Wing handlebars. I
searched the FSA website but couldn't find anything. Also, what are
the recommended torque settings for the seatpost clamp on a carbon
fibre bike?

And while I'm asking, I notice some components require more torque
than others (eg. the Shimano cassette lock nut requires around 50Nm,
whereas attaching the brake caliper to the frame only requires approx.
8Nm). Is there a torque wrench available that can be set to provide a
range of torque? Or do I need to buy two torque wrenches, one for the
stuff requiring lots of torque, another for stuff requiring very
little torque?
you need more than one - no torque wrench is accurate though the kind of
range described. for your application, i recommend bending beam
wrenches because they're cheap, don't need calibration and are robust.
clicking wrenches can be deceptive in the hands of unpracticed users and
give out-of-spec fastenings.

you can get bending beams at sears cheaper than you can from park. in
some applications, like cylinder heads with blind bolt holes, benders
are the preferred tool because they can be held at torque while
back-pressure on the blind thread relieves. clickers click, then the
bolt back pressure relieves, and the bolt is actually torqued too low.
they're also advisable of something like the older campy cassettes with
resin spacers. the resin relaxes a little on tightening so the lock
ring needs to be held at torque for a moment or two and "followed around".

fyi, clickers are intended primarily for applications where the operator
has restricted access and can't see a gauge dial like under a car or low
down lug nuts, etc. good ones are very expensive. cheap ones simply
cannot be trusted for any length of time.
OTOH, checking the calibration is a trivial job - all you need is a
known weight and a ruler - several different weights if you want to
check across the range.
nope, far from it. f=ma remember? any momentum on that weight and you
have a false reading.

Well, it should be fairly obvious that you place the weight gently,
not drop it from a height.

if it's so obvious, why didn't /you/ mention it, wise guy? and exactly
how much acceleration do you think you need on a 20lb mass, 1 yard from
the fulcrum to get a 10% error on torque? how about a 5% error? and
for how long does that acceleration need to apply? [etc]


But if you want to be ham-fisted with your tools, I guess there's no
helping you.
Do you tighten a micrometer with vise-grips, too?

oh, the impotence of suggestio falsi.


As long as any error is repeatable, just note the offset.
It's only when errors become variable that the wrench is beyond use.