retro/modern wheel recomendations?

I've decided to restore my late 70s Colnago Super, which I'm still
riding and love. Several years ago I found some decent clincher
wheels and have been using those instead of my Campy low flange 32
hole sew-ups. Now I'd like to build up new clinchers on the old
classic campy hubs. Instead of a totally retro original sort of
restoration I'm thinking it would be nice to use some modern aero rim
and maybe bladed spokes or radial pattern to get the best performance
I can get. Thing is, I have no idea what is available these days. I
know modern materials have improved so I'm thinking I could have
lighter stiffer faster wheels then my legendary old GP-4s. I'm about
150 lbs and basically never wore out the sew up rims of old except for
hitting some RR tracks too hard making the rear a bit out of round.
Without going cash crazy and buying carbon fiber rims or something
what would be a good set up? It doesn't necessarily have to look
classic and retro. I just want to use the old campy hubs but get
performance and reasonable duribility.

MM

On Oct 10, 11:57*pm, " wrote:
I've decided to restore my late 70s Colnago Super, which I'm still
riding and love. *Several years ago I found some decent clincher
wheels and have been using those instead of my Campy low flange 32
hole sew-ups. *Now I'd like to build up new clinchers on the old
classic campy hubs. *Instead of a totally retro original sort of
restoration I'm thinking it would be nice to use some modern aero rim
and maybe bladed spokes or radial pattern to get the best performance
I can get. *Thing is, I have no idea what is available these days. *I
know modern materials have improved so I'm thinking I could have
lighter stiffer faster wheels then my legendary old GP-4s. *I'm about
150 lbs and basically never wore out the sew up rims of old except for
hitting some RR tracks too hard making the rear a bit out of round.
Without going cash crazy and buying carbon fiber rims or something
what would be a good set up? *It doesn't necessarily have to look
classic and retro. *I just want to use the old campy hubs but get
performance and reasonable duribility.

MM

http://www.velocityusa.com

Escapes(tubulars), Aerohead(clincher)

http://www.dtswiss.com

RR1.1, various spokes including 'oval' types where you don't have to
slot the hub.

http://www.sapim.be

Belgium made spokes, availability is not what DT is but they can be
found.

And of course Mavic rims altho for this wheelbuilder, they are a
definite third choice in rims.

If you are using the older Campag hubs, I would not lace them
differently than they have been previously or you risk killing a
flange. Particularly if you lace radial in the front, which doesn't do
anything for wheel performance anyway. Samo for radial left side
rear.

BTW-GP4, GL 330 and GEL 280s, along with some high end Campagnolo
rims, were great rims and made for some nice wheels. 'Modern' rims
will probably weigh about the same(or more) but have non necessary
things like welded seams and machined sidewalls, things that are
marketing driven, but don't help the rim performance..but do make them
more expensive.

Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
snip

'Modern' rims
will probably weigh about the same(or more) but have non necessary
things like welded seams and machined sidewalls, things that are
marketing driven, but don't help the rim performance..but do make them
more expensive.

not true.

1. machined rims allow 100% brake pad contact from day one - they are
therefore safer.

2. welded seams ensure no misalignment and better continuity for
braking. also, no discontinuity means they're more resistant to dents
in that region. they offer better bending strength too if you're
looking at a rear wheel that can regularly experience non-drive side
spokes slacking.

dismissing these benefits as "marketing driven" "don't help rim
performance" and "more expensive" [as if that's some kind of technical
problem] is failure to understand. if you don't want to learn, fine,
but keep it to yourself. repeating jobstian bull**** as if there's some
kind of advantage to having your head up someone else's rear end makes
no sense.

wrote:
I've decided to restore my late 70s Colnago Super, which I'm still
riding and love. Several years ago I found some decent clincher
wheels and have been using those instead of my Campy low flange 32
hole sew-ups. Now I'd like to build up new clinchers on the old
classic campy hubs. Instead of a totally retro original sort of
restoration I'm thinking it would be nice to use some modern aero rim
and maybe bladed spokes or radial pattern to get the best performance
I can get. Thing is, I have no idea what is available these days. I
know modern materials have improved so I'm thinking I could have
lighter stiffer faster wheels then my legendary old GP-4s. I'm about
150 lbs and basically never wore out the sew up rims of old except for
hitting some RR tracks too hard making the rear a bit out of round.
Without going cash crazy and buying carbon fiber rims or something
what would be a good set up? It doesn't necessarily have to look
classic and retro. I just want to use the old campy hubs but get
performance and reasonable duribility.

'Best performance', in terms of weight? aero? durability? bling?

Aero rims are by necessity heavier, AEBE. As are clinchers in general
compared to most tubulars.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Oct 11, 9:45*am, A Muzi wrote:
wrote:
I've decided to restore my late 70s Colnago Super, which I'm still
riding and love. *Several years ago I found some decent clincher
wheels and have been using those instead of my Campy low flange 32
hole sew-ups. *Now I'd like to build up new clinchers on the old
classic campy hubs. *Instead of a totally retro original sort of
restoration I'm thinking it would be nice to use some modern aero rim
and maybe bladed spokes or radial pattern to get the best performance
I can get. *Thing is, I have no idea what is available these days. *I
know modern materials have improved so I'm thinking I could have
lighter stiffer faster wheels then my legendary old GP-4s. *I'm about
150 lbs and basically never wore out the sew up rims of old except for
hitting some RR tracks too hard making the rear a bit out of round.
Without going cash crazy and buying carbon fiber rims or something
what would be a good set up? *It doesn't necessarily have to look
classic and retro. *I just want to use the old campy hubs but get
performance and reasonable duribility.

'Best performance', in terms of weight? aero? durability? bling?

Aero rims are by necessity heavier, AEBE. As are clinchers in general
compared to most tubulars.
--
Andrew Muzi
* www.yellowjersey.org/
* Open every day since 1 April, 1971
** Posted fromhttp://www.teranews.com**

http://www.yellowjersey.org/tt.html

^^3 for $50 tubies at the link^^

If I had a set of strong tubular road wheels, I'd leave them be and
ride them in fair weather with the above tires.

On Oct 11, 8:17*am, jim beam wrote:
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
snip

'Modern' rims
will probably weigh about the same(or more) but have non necessary
things like welded seams and machined sidewalls, things that are
marketing driven, but don't help the rim performance..but do make them
more expensive.

not true.

1. machined rims allow 100% brake pad contact from day one - they are
therefore safer.

2. welded seams ensure no misalignment and better continuity for
braking. *also, no discontinuity means they're more resistant to dents
in that region. *they offer better bending strength too if you're
looking at a rear wheel that can regularly experience non-drive side
spokes slacking.

dismissing these benefits as "marketing driven" "don't help rim
performance" and "more expensive" [as if that's some kind of technical
problem] is failure to understand. *if you don't want to learn, fine,
but keep it to yourself. *repeating jobstian bull**** as if there's some
kind of advantage to having your head up someone else's rear end makes
no sense.

thanks Jim..always a pleasure....

On Oct 11, 7:17*am, jim beam wrote:
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
snip

'Modern' rims
will probably weigh about the same(or more) but have non necessary
things like welded seams and machined sidewalls, things that are
marketing driven, but don't help the rim performance..but do make them
more expensive.

not true.

1. machined rims allow 100% brake pad contact from day one - they are
therefore safer.

2. welded seams ensure no misalignment and better continuity for
braking. *also, no discontinuity means they're more resistant to dents
in that region. *they offer better bending strength too if you're
looking at a rear wheel that can regularly experience non-drive side
spokes slacking.

dismissing these benefits as "marketing driven" "don't help rim
performance" and "more expensive" [as if that's some kind of technical
problem] is failure to understand. *if you don't want to learn, fine,
but keep it to yourself. *repeating jobstian bull**** as if there's some
kind of advantage to having your head up someone else's rear end makes
no sense.

I rode ModE/MA2/Gentleman and various non-welded, non-mmachined sew-
up rims for decades and never had a problem with braking -- and to the
extent the seam was a problem, I took two swipes with a flat file and
made it perfect. It wasn't like my first Open 4 Sup CD was some sort
of rim epiphany -- it was just a lot more expensive and a couple of
grams lighter. The ride was indistinguishable, and it didn't last as
long (which I do not blame on the design necessarily). There are
modern designs that I prefer (like OC) and many that are lighter than
the olde tyme rims, but I never saw a problem with non-welded non-
machined rims. I do miss double eyelets, if only because I hate
chasing dropped nipples around the inside of an aero rim. -- Jay
Beattie.

On Oct 11, 8:17*am, jim beam wrote:
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
snip

'Modern' rims
will probably weigh about the same(or more) but have non necessary
things like welded seams and machined sidewalls, things that are
marketing driven, but don't help the rim performance..but do make them
more expensive.

not true.

1. machined rims allow 100% brake pad contact from day one - they are
therefore safer.

Man, before machined rims people risked their lives with the very
unsafe non-machined rims. The literature is full of stories of deaths
and serius injuries due to non-machined rims


2. welded seams ensure no misalignment and better continuity for
braking. *also, no discontinuity means they're more resistant to dents
in that region. *they offer better bending strength too if you're
looking at a rear wheel that can regularly experience non-drive side
spokes slacking.

dismissing these benefits as "marketing driven" "don't help rim
performance" and "more expensive" [as if that's some kind of technical
problem] is failure to understand. *if you don't want to learn, fine,
but keep it to yourself. *repeating jobstian bull**** as if there's some
kind of advantage to having your head up someone else's rear end makes
no sense.

aka Andres Muro wrote:
On Oct 11, 8:17 am, jim beam wrote:
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
snip

'Modern' rims
will probably weigh about the same(or more) but have non necessary
things like welded seams and machined sidewalls, things that are
marketing driven, but don't help the rim performance..but do make them
more expensive.
not true.

1. machined rims allow 100% brake pad contact from day one - they are
therefore safer.

Man, before machined rims people risked their lives with the very
unsafe non-machined rims. The literature is full of stories of deaths
and serius injuries due to non-machined rims

LOL!

--
Tom Sherman - 42.435731,-83.985007
If you are not a part of the solution, you are a part of the precipitate.

" writes:

On Oct 11, 8:17Â*am, jim beam wrote:
Qui si parla Campagnolo wrote:
snip

'Modern' rims
will probably weigh about the same(or more) but have non necessary
things like welded seams and machined sidewalls, things that are
marketing driven, but don't help the rim performance..but do make them
more expensive.

not true.

1. machined rims allow 100% brake pad contact from day one - they are
therefore safer.

Man, before machined rims people risked their lives with the very
unsafe non-machined rims. The literature is full of stories of deaths
and serius injuries due to non-machined rims

Why are you misrepresenting what he said? He said they were safer. Not
that the weld free were deathtraps.



2. welded seams ensure no misalignment and better continuity for
braking. Â*also, no discontinuity means they're more resistant to dents
in that region. Â*they offer better bending strength too if you're
looking at a rear wheel that can regularly experience non-drive side
spokes slacking.

dismissing these benefits as "marketing driven" "don't help rim
performance" and "more expensive" [as if that's some kind of technical
problem] is failure to understand. Â*if you don't want to learn, fine,
but keep it to yourself. Â*repeating jobstian bull**** as if there's some
kind of advantage to having your head up someone else's rear end makes
no sense.


--