Bell Dashboard 100, re-enter odo numbers?

On 2017-07-29 18:42, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 2:48:18 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 13:46, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 12:16, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 7:06:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling speedometer. Or what they call "cycle
computer" In the manual it says one can re-enter the
odometer reading but nowhere it says how. When I
contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you can't".
Does anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the rear tire or other stuff is nearing
end-of-life. Mainly to avoid a *KAPOW* surprise way out
in the boonies. Many tires don't have TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not just
design a circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which
is only a switch which is creating a pulsed
current/voltage read by the head unit electronics. Then
set the tyre size to maximum and determine the maximum
response frequency of the head unit circuitry and
simulate pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it should not take too long to reset the
mileage. With a tyre circumference of 9999mm, if it will
take that, then you are looking at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one. However, I've got enough electronics
projects as it is. When I am fully retired, maybe. But then
I want to ride instead of build replacements for messed-up
commercial designs. On the bikes I already had to do that
for lighting but there it was a necessity.

If I ever build my own it will be like what cars have
since over 100 years. A speedometer that is backlit at
night, works off the central battery and most of all never
forgets its odometer info.

I think that he was suggesting that you pulse the meter until
it reaches the mileage you originally had.


Yes, I misunderstood Graham. If almost all brands contain Reed
switches like Andrew said that might not be so great for the
lifetime of that switch. Also, it would eat up battery because
there will be a limit in the speed and I guess that's not the
same at on a Ferrari Testarossa. So I'd have to let that
artificial wheel run a long time in order to get the usual
4000+ miles back in, and next time 8000+, then 12000+ and so
on. Most likely that takes weeks.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It looks like you still have not got it. Lets forget the grinder
idea as I agree with Andrew about the read switches and that does
tend to rule that idea out. My first idea was to do it
electronically with a simple circuit that would send relatively
high frequency pulses to the appropriate terminals on the head
unit to simulate the action of the switch. From your decription
of your background surely this is a trivial exercise and I am
sure you will have the required circuit components lying around
on your bench. See my earlier posts as to how long it would take
at different frquency pulsing if you set the tyre circumference
to 9999mm. 4000 miles would take around 180 hours at 1Hz, 18
hours at 10Hz etc and my guess is that the head unit circuit
should at least cope with that. Any higher frequecy response
would be a bonus.


Yeah, I could hack the cable aoart, roach on a MOSFET, wrap the
whole enchilade with duct take and feed pulses from a function
generator :-)

I think in that case the better alternative would be to buy a
better designed meter like the one I have on the MTB (Cateye
Padrone) that does allow odometer re-entry.

I only started this thread to see if someone knows a trick. There
is a discrepancy between the Bell manual and what Bell's customer
service says. The manual explicitly says you should write down the
odometer value before a battery change and then re-enter it after
installing a new battery. Their customer service said that it
cannot be done. So one of them is wrong.

I have yet to see a modern speedo in which you cannot re-enter the
mileage after a battery change.


The Bell Dashboard 100 is one of those. Well, at least per their
customer service.


... But I HAVE seen manuals that are
pitifully explanatory and service reps that haven't a clue what
they're talking about.


That is exactly why I posted my question here. I have played around with
the buttons a lot but could not find any re-entry method. The manual
says you should write it down for re-entry but then never mentions how
it actually gets re-entered.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2017-07-30 02:21, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 13:46, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 12:16, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 7:06:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling speedometer. Or what they call "cycle
computer" In the manual it says one can re-enter the
odometer reading but nowhere it says how. When I
contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you can't".
Does anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the rear tire or other stuff is nearing
end-of-life. Mainly to avoid a *KAPOW* surprise way out
in the boonies. Many tires don't have TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not just
design a circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which
is only a switch which is creating a pulsed
current/voltage read by the head unit electronics. Then
set the tyre size to maximum and determine the maximum
response frequency of the head unit circuitry and
simulate pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it should not take too long to reset the
mileage. With a tyre circumference of 9999mm, if it will
take that, then you are looking at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one. However, I've got enough electronics
projects as it is. When I am fully retired, maybe. But then
I want to ride instead of build replacements for messed-up
commercial designs. On the bikes I already had to do that
for lighting but there it was a necessity.

If I ever build my own it will be like what cars have
since over 100 years. A speedometer that is backlit at
night, works off the central battery and most of all never
forgets its odometer info.

I think that he was suggesting that you pulse the meter until
it reaches the mileage you originally had.


Yes, I misunderstood Graham. If almost all brands contain Reed
switches like Andrew said that might not be so great for the
lifetime of that switch. Also, it would eat up battery because
there will be a limit in the speed and I guess that's not the
same at on a Ferrari Testarossa. So I'd have to let that
artificial wheel run a long time in order to get the usual
4000+ miles back in, and next time 8000+, then 12000+ and so
on. Most likely that takes weeks.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It looks like you still have not got it. Lets forget the grinder
idea as I agree with Andrew about the read switches and that does
tend to rule that idea out. My first idea was to do it
electronically with a simple circuit that would send relatively
high frequency pulses to the appropriate terminals on the head
unit to simulate the action of the switch. From your decription
of your background surely this is a trivial exercise and I am
sure you will have the required circuit components lying around
on your bench. See my earlier posts as to how long it would take
at different frquency pulsing if you set the tyre circumference
to 9999mm. 4000 miles would take around 180 hours at 1Hz, 18
hours at 10Hz etc and my guess is that the head unit circuit
should at least cope with that. Any higher frequecy response
would be a bonus.


Yeah, I could hack the cable aoart, roach on a MOSFET, wrap the
whole enchilade with duct take and feed pulses from a function
generator :-)
[snip]

Why so dramatic do you just like cludging things with duct tape. Your
head unit has two contacts on the back and my guess is that if you
apply a rapid series of shorts across those two contacts the unit
will display speed. How you might choose to apply those shorts is up
to you: electronically, mechanically eg make a simple rotary switch
driven by an electric drill or even a DPDT relay wired to self
oscillate. The possibilities are almost endless, relatively simple
and do not involve cable hacks and duct tape cludges


I could probably do that but I am sure they have a lowpass filter in
there to mitigate noise and Reed bounce. Or I could pipe out the power
supply to some metal spots such as a couple of the mounting screws and
supply 1.5V while changing the battery. That way it won't forget the
mileage.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 2017-07-30 07:43, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/29/2017 4:48 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 13:46, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 12:16, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 7:06:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg
wrote:
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard 100
cycling speedometer. Or what they call "cycle
computer" In
the manual it says one can re-enter the odometer reading
but nowhere it says how. When I contacted Bell years ago
they said "no, you can't". Does anyone know a secret
trick
Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to see
when the rear tire or other stuff is nearing
end-of-life.
Mainly to avoid a *KAPOW* surprise way out in the
boonies.
Many tires don't have TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not just
design a circuit to replicate the job of the magnet
which is
only a switch which is creating a pulsed
current/voltage read
by the head unit electronics. Then set the tyre size to
maximum and determine the maximum response frequency
of the
head unit circuitry and simulate pulses at that
frequency. If
the frequency is reasonably high it should not take
too long
to reset the mileage. With a tyre circumference of
9999mm, if
it will take that, then you are looking at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial
one. However, I've got enough electronics projects as
it is.
When I am fully retired, maybe. But then I want to ride
instead
of build replacements for messed-up commercial designs.
On the
bikes I already had to do that for lighting but there
it was a
necessity.

If I ever build my own it will be like what cars have
since
over 100 years. A speedometer that is backlit at night,
works
off the central battery and most of all never forgets its
odometer info.

I think that he was suggesting that you pulse the meter
until it
reaches the mileage you originally had.


Yes, I misunderstood Graham. If almost all brands contain
Reed
switches like Andrew said that might not be so great for the
lifetime of that switch. Also, it would eat up battery
because
there will be a limit in the speed and I guess that's not
the same
at on a Ferrari Testarossa. So I'd have to let that
artificial
wheel run a long time in order to get the usual 4000+
miles back
in, and next time 8000+, then 12000+ and so on. Most
likely that
takes weeks.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It looks like you still have not got it. Lets forget the
grinder idea
as I agree with Andrew about the read switches and that
does tend to
rule that idea out. My first idea was to do it
electronically with a
simple circuit that would send relatively high frequency
pulses to
the appropriate terminals on the head unit to simulate the
action of
the switch. From your decription of your background surely
this is a
trivial exercise and I am sure you will have the required
circuit
components lying around on your bench. See my earlier
posts as to how
long it would take at different frquency pulsing if you
set the tyre
circumference to 9999mm. 4000 miles would take around 180
hours at
1Hz, 18 hours at 10Hz etc and my guess is that the head
unit circuit
should at least cope with that. Any higher frequecy
response would be
a bonus.


Yeah, I could hack the cable aoart, roach on a MOSFET, wrap
the whole enchilade with duct take and feed pulses from a
function generator :-)

I think in that case the better alternative would be to buy
a better designed meter like the one I have on the MTB
(Cateye Padrone) that does allow odometer re-entry.

I only started this thread to see if someone knows a trick.
There is a discrepancy between the Bell manual and what
Bell's customer service says. The manual explicitly says you
should write down the odometer value before a battery change
and then re-enter it after installing a new battery. Their
customer service said that it cannot be done. So one of them
is wrong.


Or more probably the actual manufacturer may be totally random based on
being Bell's low bidder from time to time.


I had that with a remote thermometer except all the expected software
functions were there. It came from China and works well. No brand name
whatsoever on it. When I got it it looked almost identical to a name
brand version but cost 30% less.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 7/29/2017 2:09 PM, Joerg wrote:
I'd never use Reed or
anything mechanical in those, especially in an environment that is prone
to vibration. Like ... a mountain bike.

:-) Joerg would never use what every current cyclometer company (and
therefore almost every mountain biker) uses without problems, because
his situation is just so gnarly!

Classic Joerg!


--
- Frank Krygowski

On 2017-07-30 09:53, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 7/29/2017 2:09 PM, Joerg wrote:
I'd never use Reed or anything mechanical in those, especially in an
environment that is prone to vibration. Like ... a mountain bike.

:-) Joerg would never use what every current cyclometer company (and
therefore almost every mountain biker) uses without problems, because
his situation is just so gnarly!

Classic Joerg!


And, not surprisingly, my clients enjoy electronic designs of cast-iron
reliability and robustness.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

wrote:
Op zondag 30 juli 2017 03:01:10 UTC+2 schreef jbeattie:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 10:44:08 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/29/2017 11:34 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 09:16, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/29/2017 10:19 AM, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling
speedometer. Or what they call "cycle computer" In the
manual it
says one can re-enter the odometer reading but nowhere
it says how.
When I contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you
can't". Does
anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the
rear tire or other stuff is nearing end-of-life.
Mainly to avoid a
*KAPOW* surprise way out in the boonies. Many tires
don't have
TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not
just design a
circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which is
only a switch
which is creating a pulsed current/voltage read by the
head unit
electronics. Then set the tyre size to maximum and
determine the
maximum response frequency of the head unit circuitry
and simulate
pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it
should not take too long to reset the mileage. With a tyre
circumference of 9999mm, if it will take that, then you
are looking
at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one.
[snip]

No you miss my point. I am not suggesting you
design/build a new unit
simply knock up a simple circuit to mimic the magnet
driven switch
opening and closing and connect it to the appropriate
terminals on the
head unit. If the unit can respond to switching rates up
to say 1kHz
then the job should be reasonably quick and could be left
to run for a
known period of time to get the mileage back to where you
want it. At
10m per switch cycle you would advance the reading
36kms/hr at 1hz so
100Hz which should be possible would give you 3600kms/hr
1KHz would
look to be ideal as it would give you 36,000kms/hr.

A bench grinder would also work with a magnet fixed to it
and the
sensor held next to it. That might take a good bit longer
depending on
the speed of the grinder.


Ah, yes, clocking it all back in by pretending a 4120mi
ride. Good idea. I could take an old printer motor, mout a
wooden disc, glue a little magent on that and strap the
whole thing into the spokes.

It would probably take days though since the speedometer
will peg somewhere. And eat a lot of the new battery's juice
which would kind of defeat the purpose.


There are sensors which can read 1720~1760rpm (grinder
speeds) but a
copper-steel reed switch is not one of them.


Reed switches would be way too expensive for such products.
It's usually just a coil. Almost has to be because it must
generate a voltage that triggers the turned-off meter
circuitry to turn on upon wheel rotation.


Except for rare exceptions (ex: defunct Avocet), almost all
bicycle computers use that type of switch to iterate wheel
or crank rpm.

I could sell him my old Avocet, and he could kludge it.

It seems to me like he could get a sharpie and write on the screen "+
[number of miles]." Problem solved. Or maybe put the number in his
wallet on the back of a growler fill coupon -- or tattoo it to his
forehead. Or, plan B, just look at his tires to see if they are worn --
or measure his chain. I suppose this would impede the completion of his
definitive work on tire and chain wear rates by brand and model, but
only for one wear cycle. A new chain or tire would have a new odometer
reading. I don't think tires wear any faster if a bike has more or less
cumulative miles, but I could be wrong about that. I had some high mile
bikes that would just blow through tires.

-- Jay Beattie.

Simple cycling computers are so cheap he could buy a new one every time
he replaces a tire or a chain......


Or just buy a slightly less cheap one that lets you set the odometer.

--
duane

On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 11:33:52 AM UTC-7, Duane wrote:
wrote:
Op zondag 30 juli 2017 03:01:10 UTC+2 schreef jbeattie:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 10:44:08 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/29/2017 11:34 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 09:16, AMuzi wrote:
On 7/29/2017 10:19 AM, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling
speedometer. Or what they call "cycle computer" In the
manual it
says one can re-enter the odometer reading but nowhere
it says how.
When I contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you
can't". Does
anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the
rear tire or other stuff is nearing end-of-life.
Mainly to avoid a
*KAPOW* surprise way out in the boonies. Many tires
don't have
TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not
just design a
circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which is
only a switch
which is creating a pulsed current/voltage read by the
head unit
electronics. Then set the tyre size to maximum and
determine the
maximum response frequency of the head unit circuitry
and simulate
pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it
should not take too long to reset the mileage. With a tyre
circumference of 9999mm, if it will take that, then you
are looking
at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one.
[snip]

No you miss my point. I am not suggesting you
design/build a new unit
simply knock up a simple circuit to mimic the magnet
driven switch
opening and closing and connect it to the appropriate
terminals on the
head unit. If the unit can respond to switching rates up
to say 1kHz
then the job should be reasonably quick and could be left
to run for a
known period of time to get the mileage back to where you
want it. At
10m per switch cycle you would advance the reading
36kms/hr at 1hz so
100Hz which should be possible would give you 3600kms/hr
1KHz would
look to be ideal as it would give you 36,000kms/hr.

A bench grinder would also work with a magnet fixed to it
and the
sensor held next to it. That might take a good bit longer
depending on
the speed of the grinder.


Ah, yes, clocking it all back in by pretending a 4120mi
ride. Good idea. I could take an old printer motor, mout a
wooden disc, glue a little magent on that and strap the
whole thing into the spokes.

It would probably take days though since the speedometer
will peg somewhere. And eat a lot of the new battery's juice
which would kind of defeat the purpose.


There are sensors which can read 1720~1760rpm (grinder
speeds) but a
copper-steel reed switch is not one of them.


Reed switches would be way too expensive for such products.
It's usually just a coil. Almost has to be because it must
generate a voltage that triggers the turned-off meter
circuitry to turn on upon wheel rotation.


Except for rare exceptions (ex: defunct Avocet), almost all
bicycle computers use that type of switch to iterate wheel
or crank rpm.

I could sell him my old Avocet, and he could kludge it.

It seems to me like he could get a sharpie and write on the screen "+
[number of miles]." Problem solved. Or maybe put the number in his
wallet on the back of a growler fill coupon -- or tattoo it to his
forehead. Or, plan B, just look at his tires to see if they are worn --
or measure his chain. I suppose this would impede the completion of his
definitive work on tire and chain wear rates by brand and model, but
only for one wear cycle. A new chain or tire would have a new odometer
reading. I don't think tires wear any faster if a bike has more or less
cumulative miles, but I could be wrong about that. I had some high mile
bikes that would just blow through tires.

-- Jay Beattie.

Simple cycling computers are so cheap he could buy a new one every time
he replaces a tire or a chain......


Or just buy a slightly less cheap one that lets you set the odometer.

Gasp! More than $13.14 USD? https://www.amazon.com/Bell-Dashboar.../dp/B01IGU9XIK The horror! Cyclometers should not cost more than $8 and should be bomb-proof and fully and easily re-programmable to show any mileage I want! In fact, I want to be able to manipulate trip mileage so I can claim every ride is 200 miles or more. "Hey man, I'm a little tired; I just rode 200 miles. Here, look at my trip mileage." I also want one with adjustable elevation gain. "200 miles and 52,000 feet of climbing! I'm totally tired."


-- Jay Beattie.

"Joerg" wrote in message ...
On 2017-07-30 02:21, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 13:46, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 12:16, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 7:06:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling speedometer. Or what they call "cycle
computer" In the manual it says one can re-enter the
odometer reading but nowhere it says how. When I
contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you can't".
Does anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the rear tire or other stuff is nearing
end-of-life. Mainly to avoid a *KAPOW* surprise way out
in the boonies. Many tires don't have TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not just
design a circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which
is only a switch which is creating a pulsed
current/voltage read by the head unit electronics. Then
set the tyre size to maximum and determine the maximum
response frequency of the head unit circuitry and
simulate pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it should not take too long to reset the
mileage. With a tyre circumference of 9999mm, if it will
take that, then you are looking at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one. However, I've got enough electronics
projects as it is. When I am fully retired, maybe. But then
I want to ride instead of build replacements for messed-up
commercial designs. On the bikes I already had to do that
for lighting but there it was a necessity.

If I ever build my own it will be like what cars have
since over 100 years. A speedometer that is backlit at
night, works off the central battery and most of all never
forgets its odometer info.

I think that he was suggesting that you pulse the meter until
it reaches the mileage you originally had.


Yes, I misunderstood Graham. If almost all brands contain Reed
switches like Andrew said that might not be so great for the
lifetime of that switch. Also, it would eat up battery because
there will be a limit in the speed and I guess that's not the
same at on a Ferrari Testarossa. So I'd have to let that
artificial wheel run a long time in order to get the usual
4000+ miles back in, and next time 8000+, then 12000+ and so
on. Most likely that takes weeks.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It looks like you still have not got it. Lets forget the grinder
idea as I agree with Andrew about the read switches and that does
tend to rule that idea out. My first idea was to do it
electronically with a simple circuit that would send relatively
high frequency pulses to the appropriate terminals on the head
unit to simulate the action of the switch. From your decription
of your background surely this is a trivial exercise and I am
sure you will have the required circuit components lying around
on your bench. See my earlier posts as to how long it would take
at different frquency pulsing if you set the tyre circumference
to 9999mm. 4000 miles would take around 180 hours at 1Hz, 18
hours at 10Hz etc and my guess is that the head unit circuit
should at least cope with that. Any higher frequecy response
would be a bonus.


Yeah, I could hack the cable aoart, roach on a MOSFET, wrap the
whole enchilade with duct take and feed pulses from a function
generator :-)
[snip]

Why so dramatic do you just like cludging things with duct tape. Your
head unit has two contacts on the back and my guess is that if you
apply a rapid series of shorts across those two contacts the unit
will display speed. How you might choose to apply those shorts is up
to you: electronically, mechanically eg make a simple rotary switch
driven by an electric drill or even a DPDT relay wired to self
oscillate. The possibilities are almost endless, relatively simple
and do not involve cable hacks and duct tape cludges


I could probably do that but I am sure they have a lowpass filter in
there to mitigate noise and Reed bounce. Or I could pipe out the power
supply to some metal spots such as a couple of the mounting screws and
supply 1.5V while changing the battery. That way it won't forget the
mileage.

OK I give in. I am largely just a lurker in this group and only chip in when things look like they are, as one might say, "tech". If you are the "elecy techy" you claim to be then you could have solved this problem without even troubling this news group. The reply above shows that you know how to solve this problem so why waste bandwith?

Graham.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-30 02:21, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 13:46, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 12:16, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 7:06:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling speedometer. Or what they call "cycle
computer" In the manual it says one can re-enter the
odometer reading but nowhere it says how. When I
contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you can't".
Does anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the rear tire or other stuff is nearing
end-of-life. Mainly to avoid a *KAPOW* surprise way out
in the boonies. Many tires don't have TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not just
design a circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which
is only a switch which is creating a pulsed
current/voltage read by the head unit electronics. Then
set the tyre size to maximum and determine the maximum
response frequency of the head unit circuitry and
simulate pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it should not take too long to reset the
mileage. With a tyre circumference of 9999mm, if it will
take that, then you are looking at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one. However, I've got enough electronics
projects as it is. When I am fully retired, maybe. But then
I want to ride instead of build replacements for messed-up
commercial designs. On the bikes I already had to do that
for lighting but there it was a necessity.

If I ever build my own it will be like what cars have
since over 100 years. A speedometer that is backlit at
night, works off the central battery and most of all never
forgets its odometer info.

I think that he was suggesting that you pulse the meter until
it reaches the mileage you originally had.


Yes, I misunderstood Graham. If almost all brands contain Reed
switches like Andrew said that might not be so great for the
lifetime of that switch. Also, it would eat up battery because
there will be a limit in the speed and I guess that's not the
same at on a Ferrari Testarossa. So I'd have to let that
artificial wheel run a long time in order to get the usual
4000+ miles back in, and next time 8000+, then 12000+ and so
on. Most likely that takes weeks.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It looks like you still have not got it. Lets forget the grinder
idea as I agree with Andrew about the read switches and that does
tend to rule that idea out. My first idea was to do it
electronically with a simple circuit that would send relatively
high frequency pulses to the appropriate terminals on the head
unit to simulate the action of the switch. From your decription
of your background surely this is a trivial exercise and I am
sure you will have the required circuit components lying around
on your bench. See my earlier posts as to how long it would take
at different frquency pulsing if you set the tyre circumference
to 9999mm. 4000 miles would take around 180 hours at 1Hz, 18
hours at 10Hz etc and my guess is that the head unit circuit
should at least cope with that. Any higher frequecy response
would be a bonus.


Yeah, I could hack the cable aoart, roach on a MOSFET, wrap the
whole enchilade with duct take and feed pulses from a function
generator :-)
[snip]

Why so dramatic do you just like cludging things with duct tape. Your
head unit has two contacts on the back and my guess is that if you
apply a rapid series of shorts across those two contacts the unit
will display speed. How you might choose to apply those shorts is up
to you: electronically, mechanically eg make a simple rotary switch
driven by an electric drill or even a DPDT relay wired to self
oscillate. The possibilities are almost endless, relatively simple
and do not involve cable hacks and duct tape cludges


I could probably do that but I am sure they have a lowpass filter in
there to mitigate noise and Reed bounce. Or I could pipe out the power
supply to some metal spots such as a couple of the mounting screws and
supply 1.5V while changing the battery. That way it won't forget the
mileage.

OK I give in. I am largely just a lurker in this group and only chip in
when things look like they are, as one might say, "tech". If you are the
"elecy techy" you claim to be then you could have solved this problem
without even troubling this news group. The reply above shows that you
know how to solve this problem so why waste bandwith?


Very good question.



--
duane

On Sunday, July 30, 2017 at 6:18:07 PM UTC-4, Duane wrote:
Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-30 02:21, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 13:46, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
On 2017-07-29 12:16, wrote:
On Saturday, July 29, 2017 at 7:06:59 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-07-29 02:14, Graham wrote:

"Joerg" wrote in message
...
Had to change the battery again on my Bell Dashboard
100 cycling speedometer. Or what they call "cycle
computer" In the manual it says one can re-enter the
odometer reading but nowhere it says how. When I
contacted Bell years ago they said "no, you can't".
Does anyone know a secret trick Bell doesn't know?

I keep a log but it gets old having to calculate to
see when the rear tire or other stuff is nearing
end-of-life. Mainly to avoid a *KAPOW* surprise way out
in the boonies. Many tires don't have TWI.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Looking at your day job from the above link why not just
design a circuit to replicate the job of the magnet which
is only a switch which is creating a pulsed
current/voltage read by the head unit electronics. Then
set the tyre size to maximum and determine the maximum
response frequency of the head unit circuitry and
simulate pulses at that frequency. If the frequency is
reasonably high it should not take too long to reset the
mileage. With a tyre circumference of 9999mm, if it will
take that, then you are looking at 10m per Hz.


Sure I could design a meter that works better than
commercial one. However, I've got enough electronics
projects as it is. When I am fully retired, maybe. But then
I want to ride instead of build replacements for messed-up
commercial designs. On the bikes I already had to do that
for lighting but there it was a necessity.

If I ever build my own it will be like what cars have
since over 100 years. A speedometer that is backlit at
night, works off the central battery and most of all never
forgets its odometer info.

I think that he was suggesting that you pulse the meter until
it reaches the mileage you originally had.


Yes, I misunderstood Graham. If almost all brands contain Reed
switches like Andrew said that might not be so great for the
lifetime of that switch. Also, it would eat up battery because
there will be a limit in the speed and I guess that's not the
same at on a Ferrari Testarossa. So I'd have to let that
artificial wheel run a long time in order to get the usual
4000+ miles back in, and next time 8000+, then 12000+ and so
on. Most likely that takes weeks.

-- Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

It looks like you still have not got it. Lets forget the grinder
idea as I agree with Andrew about the read switches and that does
tend to rule that idea out. My first idea was to do it
electronically with a simple circuit that would send relatively
high frequency pulses to the appropriate terminals on the head
unit to simulate the action of the switch. From your decription
of your background surely this is a trivial exercise and I am
sure you will have the required circuit components lying around
on your bench. See my earlier posts as to how long it would take
at different frquency pulsing if you set the tyre circumference
to 9999mm. 4000 miles would take around 180 hours at 1Hz, 18
hours at 10Hz etc and my guess is that the head unit circuit
should at least cope with that. Any higher frequecy response
would be a bonus.


Yeah, I could hack the cable aoart, roach on a MOSFET, wrap the
whole enchilade with duct take and feed pulses from a function
generator :-)
[snip]

Why so dramatic do you just like cludging things with duct tape. Your
head unit has two contacts on the back and my guess is that if you
apply a rapid series of shorts across those two contacts the unit
will display speed. How you might choose to apply those shorts is up
to you: electronically, mechanically eg make a simple rotary switch
driven by an electric drill or even a DPDT relay wired to self
oscillate. The possibilities are almost endless, relatively simple
and do not involve cable hacks and duct tape cludges


I could probably do that but I am sure they have a lowpass filter in
there to mitigate noise and Reed bounce. Or I could pipe out the power
supply to some metal spots such as a couple of the mounting screws and
supply 1.5V while changing the battery. That way it won't forget the
mileage.

OK I give in. I am largely just a lurker in this group and only chip in
when things look like they are, as one might say, "tech". If you are the
"elecy techy" you claim to be then you could have solved this problem
without even troubling this news group. The reply above shows that you
know how to solve this problem so why waste bandwith?


Very good question.



--
duane

What and lose the ability to co,plain about something? That's Jeorg'd reason to be = to complain about anything and everything bicycling related unless he's kludged it. VBEG LOL

Cheers