Brake pad types

Hi,
I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket. I use
a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than caliper pads to
get more braking force. The only problem is when it rains. A thin black goo
apears on the braking surfaces which acts as an amazing lubricant which does
not clear with breaking and has to be washed off. I was told by somone that
different pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
brakes have to work in the wet too right ? Any pointers would be
appreciated - I've checked sheldons site but can't find anything.

Cheers,

Bruce.

Bruce who? writes:

I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when it
rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which acts
as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking and has
to be washed off. I was told by someone that different pad
materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB brakes
have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by sweep
error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The pad should
not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case with
cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either side
of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red
pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to
rims. They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model
will work on your brakes.

http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that they
cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their backplate
and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

Jobst Brandt

BJaY Wrote:
Hi,
I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket. I
use
a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than caliper
pads to
get more braking force. The only problem is when it rains. A thin black
goo
apears on the braking surfaces which acts as an amazing lubricant which
does
not clear with breaking and has to be washed off. I was told by somone
that
different pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
brakes have to work in the wet too right ? Any pointers would be
appreciated - I've checked sheldons site but can't find anything.

Cheers,

Bruce.Here's some info:

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake...l#asymmetrical


--
lwedge

wrote:
Bruce who? writes:

I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when it
rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which acts
as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking and has
to be washed off. I was told by someone that different pad
materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB brakes
have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by sweep
error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The pad should
not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case with
cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either side
of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red
pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to
rims.

"no damage to rims"? really?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model
will work on your brakes.

http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that they
cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their backplate
and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

Jobst Brandt

jim beam wrote in news:94mdnfe9o-
:

wrote:
Bruce who? writes:

Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either side
of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red
pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to
rims.

"no damage to rims"? really?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

OK, so no pad is perfect. What's better? See
http://www.chainreactionbicycles.com/brakeshoes.htm

--
Mike DeMicco

jim Bourbon writes:

http://www.jimbeam.com/beam/default.aspx?

or was it Dewar's

http://www.dewars.com/

I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when
it rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which
acts as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking
and has to be washed off. I was told by someone that different
pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
brakes have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by
sweep error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The
pad should not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case
with cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either
side of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get
embedded grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop
salmon-red pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and
no damage to rims.

"no damage to rims"? really?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

I see not pileup of aluminum shavings or even stone particles in those
pads. In contrast to other pades, these are clean. That rims wear is
known, but the routine machining they get from debris-prone pads is
what Kool Stops avoid.

If Kool Stop brake pads don't work for you, would you show some brand
that does? There must be a positive side ot theis somewhere.

They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will
work on your brakes.

http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that
they cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their
backplate and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

Jobst Brandt

Mike DeMicco wrote:
jim beam wrote in news:94mdnfe9o-
:

wrote:
Bruce who? writes:

Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either side
of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get embedded
grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop salmon-red
pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and no damage to
rims.
"no damage to rims"? really?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

OK, so no pad is perfect. What's better?

oem campy. best by far. they stop you in the wet too, unlike kool-stops.

See
http://www.chainreactionbicycles.com/brakeshoes.htm

jim beam wrote:

"no damage to rims"? really?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

All the many other brands of pads I've used have picked up bits of grit and
metal more often than the Kool Stop salmons I use now.

~PB

wrote:
jim Bourbon writes:

http://www.jimbeam.com/beam/default.aspx?

or was it Dewar's

http://www.dewars.com/

I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when
it rains. A thin black goo spear's on the braking surfaces which
acts as an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking
and has to be washed off. I was told by someone that different
pad materials are used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB
brakes have to work in the wet too right? Any pointers would be
appreciated - I've checked Sheldon's site but can't find anything.

Pad length doesn't improve braking while pad width is limited by
sweep error caused by pad wear and where the pivot point is. The
pad should not fall off the brake track on the rim as is the case
with cantilevers if you don't keep after them.

Brake pad material is not a trivial problem. Pads fall to either
side of useful from being to soft and wear prone to ones that get
embedded grit and eat rims alive. In the long run, the Kool Stop
salmon-red pads have been the best all around pads for low wear and
no damage to rims.

"no damage to rims"? really?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/101935519/

these kool-stop salmons look remarkably like rim eaters to me.

I see not pileup of aluminum shavings or even stone particles in those
pads.

eh? what part of "these kool-stop salmon pads have been cleaned and
[most of] the grit dug out" confuses you?

In contrast to other pades, these are clean. That rims wear is
known, but the routine machining they get from debris-prone pads is
what Kool Stops avoid.

If Kool Stop brake pads don't work for you, would you show some brand
that does? There must be a positive side ot theis somewhere.

yes, oem campy. work great, little if any grit, even in the wet.


They are also the least expensive if the "continental" model will
work on your brakes.

http://www.koolstop.com/brakes/index.php

at the bottom of the page. They have the additional feature that
they cannot be knocked out of the holder, being molded to their
backplate and anchor bolt. Sheldon can sel you some.

http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html

are you on commission?

BJaY wrote:
Hi,
I just replaced my brake pads with some ones from the supermarket.
I use a road bike but have fitted the larger cantilever pads than
caliper pads to get more braking force. The only problem is when it
rains. A thin black goo apears on the braking surfaces which acts as
an amazing lubricant which does not clear with breaking and has to be
washed off. I was told by somone that different pad materials are
used for MTB brakes and road brakes but MTB brakes have to work in
the wet too right ?

You'll get black or grey goo with any pads when braking a lot in heavy rain.
It's partly aluminium from your rims.

Any pointers would be appreciated - I've checked
sheldons site but can't find anything.

Type "kool stop" insto the Google Search box on SB's site. And "brake",
"rim", etc.

~PB