Generic tubing lugs

I want to build a contraption out of brazed 1/4" steel tubing. I
can't find any manufactured lugs in this size. Actually, this is the
first time I've looked. I suppose I could start with a pipe fitting
and drill out the threads. I'd rather find the real thing, though.

Has anyone else ever looked? Successfully, I mean?

Jones

On Oct 6, 8:32*pm, !Jones wrote:
I want to build a contraption out of brazed 1/4" steel tubing. *I
can't find any manufactured lugs in this size. *Actually, this is the
first time I've looked. *I suppose I could start with a pipe fitting
and drill out the threads. *I'd rather find the real thing, though.

Has anyone else ever looked? *Successfully, I mean?

Jones

http://www.google.com/search?source=...339l1.2.8l11l0

try Mcmaster-Carr hardware online from Chicago

but this would be copper, generally.

!Jones wrote:
I want to build a contraption out of brazed 1/4" steel tubing. I
can't find any manufactured lugs in this size. Actually, this is the
first time I've looked. I suppose I could start with a pipe fitting
and drill out the threads. I'd rather find the real thing, though.

Has anyone else ever looked? Successfully, I mean?


Any particular reason you don't want it fillet brazed?
I made up a piece once with 24 T and X joints brazed in
square 1/4" tube which held up uneventfully and was quick to
do in a small fixture. Get your joints mated well and clean
the steel first and you should be OK.

If you're set on sleeved joints, weld them from 1/4" ID
steel tube. That's how Cinelli and Pogliaghi made classic
tandem lugs before SCM.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 10/6/2011 10:32 PM, !Jones wrote:
I want to build a contraption out of brazed 1/4" steel tubing. I
can't find any manufactured lugs in this size. Actually, this is the
first time I've looked. I suppose I could start with a pipe fitting
and drill out the threads. I'd rather find the real thing, though.

Has anyone else ever looked? Successfully, I mean?

Jones


-Hardware store pipe and fittings (meant for carrying liquid or gas
internally) is thick & heavy, but is all WAY too soft for structural use.

-If you are in the USA, the metal you want is 4130 steel. In other
countries the same alloy will have different names/designations.

-Welding the steel directly is easier to do than fillet brazing, but
welding doesn't look quite as nice. But brazing and having it look nice
takes practice, so don't feel bad if the project looks lousy the first
try. Just be happy it holds together....




-Are you making a bike rack? For direct welding, I would recommend 1/4"
OD x .080" thick for the longer pieces and 3/16" x .065" wall for
shorter pieces.

http://www.norcom2000.com/users/dcim...sion_rack.html

On Fri, 07 Oct 2011 08:04:02 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech DougC
wrote:

-Are you making a bike rack?

Yeah... sort of. That's the best two-word description. I doubt you or
anyone else wants an essay.

I'm going to attempt to put a 20" electric hub onto a BOB-style
trailer device. I don't want to ask for advice on that because giving
it might make you responsible for adverse consequences. Yes, it will
"jack-knife" under excessive power... and that would probably be
called an "adverse" situation.

!Jones wrote:
On Fri, 07 Oct 2011 08:04:02 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech DougC
wrote:

-Are you making a bike rack?

Yeah... sort of. That's the best two-word description. I doubt you or
anyone else wants an essay.

I'd agree with Andrew, and go for fillet brazing.

I've never come across any lugs as tiny as 1/4". And I doubt I'd be
successful trying to fabricate my own.

Your steel tubing is probably not going to be high alloy, work-hardened
stuff that would benefit from minimal heat, so you probably wouldn't see
any benefit from lugs.

Alex Wetmore's blogs have shown some pretty detailed rack building
procedures, such as custom porteur racks for heavy loads. You might get
some good ideas there. Unfortunately, it's difficult for me to find
those particular pages when I browse his blogs, but you might be more
motivated than I.

--
- Frank Krygowski

also possible after figuring loads - cut square tubing 45 degrees or ?
with jig, then jig and epoxy solid at junction. triangle joint with
flate plate.

On 10/7/2011 10:30 AM, !Jones wrote:
On Fri, 07 Oct 2011 08:04:02 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech DougC
wrote:

-Are you making a bike rack?

Yeah... sort of. That's the best two-word description. I doubt you or
anyone else wants an essay.

I'm going to attempt to put a 20" electric hub onto a BOB-style
trailer device. I don't want to ask for advice on that because giving
it might make you responsible for adverse consequences. Yes, it will
"jack-knife" under excessive power... and that would probably be
called an "adverse" situation.


Oh, I'm /never/ responsible. People on my street call me 'the Teflon
Dunce' :)

I know of no commercially-made examples, but I've seen online that a lot
of people build motorized trailers. If the trailer & hitch is strong
enough I know of no horrible side-effects. Building a solid hitch is
where most people seem to have issues (with all kinds of trailers, not
just motorized ones) but having access to any kind of welding method
would help a lot with that.

What a lot of people do is they take the front wheel+fork off of a
scooter or pocket bike, add a tongue that hitches to the bicycle
somehow, and then add a longer throttle control.

On Thu, 06 Oct 2011 23:27:58 -0500, in rec.bicycles.tech AMuzi
wrote:

Any particular reason you don't want it fillet brazed?

Simple answer, really... I've never done it.

Jones

On Fri, 07 Oct 2011 11:50:29 -0400, in rec.bicycles.tech Frank
Krygowski wrote:

Alex Wetmore's blogs have shown some pretty detailed rack building
procedures

Who? I'll Google it and read.

Jones