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#1
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
My commuter was a wreck and abandoned after the plague and shift to work-from-home, so I gave it a pannier rack, a new cassette, chain -- and to address the incessant BB creaking (Cannondale CAADX aluminum with BB30), I first tried the rear wheel, cleaning BB faces, greasing QR, etc. That didn't work. Then I removed and reinstalled the pedals with some Teflon tape. That didn't work. Then I removed the crank, got it all cleaned up and reinstalled it with grease on the axle, bearings and pinch bolts. Nope, still had creaking, so I removed the crank and knocked out the 6806 bearings, which spun like a charm and felt great -- so I wasn't going to toss them. I pressed them back in with some Loctite 609, but they didn't get long to dry because I had to go pick up dinner at the food cart. I was kind of sabotaging my work, and indeed, the creaking didn't go away. Meanwhile, shifting was not perfect even with new chain and cassette, so I changed the inner cable, which improved things. Threw on some bar tape and then decided to revise the headset a bit and raise the stem, so I dropped the fork cleaned the bearing cartridges and greased those and added a thin HS spacer to the existing line-up because I don't think I was getting good compression on the retaining cap -- not enough space between the top of the last spacer and steerer. I adjusted the HS, hit the road, and the bottom bracket creaking had disappeared. The bike is super quiet, even with a Thompson Elite post.
The deal is that I could pedal out of the saddle or put my foot on the crank holding the saddle and bars and produce a nice creaking -- but that was also side-loading the front wheel/forks/HS and probably causing the HS to creak -- but it was an unmistakable BB creak. Again, I think that BB creaking can be a lot of things besides the BB. -- Jay Beattie. |
#2
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
On 9/20/2020 7:43 PM, jbeattie wrote:
My commuter was a wreck and abandoned after the plague and shift to work-from-home, so I gave it a pannier rack, a new cassette, chain -- and to address the incessant BB creaking (Cannondale CAADX aluminum with BB30), I first tried the rear wheel, cleaning BB faces, greasing QR, etc. That didn't work. Then I removed and reinstalled the pedals with some Teflon tape. That didn't work. Then I removed the crank, got it all cleaned up and reinstalled it with grease on the axle, bearings and pinch bolts. Nope, still had creaking, so I removed the crank and knocked out the 6806 bearings, which spun like a charm and felt great -- so I wasn't going to toss them. I pressed them back in with some Loctite 609, but they didn't get long to dry because I had to go pick up dinner at the food cart. I was kind of sabotaging my work, and indeed, the creaking didn't go away. Meanwhile, shifting was not perfect even with new chain and cassette, so I changed the inner cable, which improved things. Threw on some bar tape and then decided to revise the headset a bit and raise the stem, so I dropped the fork cleaned the bearing cartridges and greased those and added a thin HS spacer to the existing line-up because I don't think I was getting good compression on the retaining cap -- not enough space between the top of the last spacer and steerer. I adjusted the HS, hit the road, and the bottom bracket creaking had disappeared. The bike is super quiet, even with a Thompson Elite post. The deal is that I could pedal out of the saddle or put my foot on the crank holding the saddle and bars and produce a nice creaking -- but that was also side-loading the front wheel/forks/HS and probably causing the HS to creak -- but it was an unmistakable BB creak. Again, I think that BB creaking can be a lot of things besides the BB. -- Jay Beattie. +1 -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
#3
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
On 9/20/2020 8:43 PM, jbeattie wrote:
My commuter was a wreck and abandoned after the plague and shift to work-from-home, so I gave it a pannier rack, a new cassette, chain -- and to address the incessant BB creaking (Cannondale CAADX aluminum with BB30), I first tried the rear wheel, cleaning BB faces, greasing QR, etc. That didn't work. Then I removed and reinstalled the pedals with some Teflon tape. That didn't work. Then I removed the crank, got it all cleaned up and reinstalled it with grease on the axle, bearings and pinch bolts. Nope, still had creaking, so I removed the crank and knocked out the 6806 bearings, which spun like a charm and felt great -- so I wasn't going to toss them. I pressed them back in with some Loctite 609, but they didn't get long to dry because I had to go pick up dinner at the food cart. I was kind of sabotaging my work, and indeed, the creaking didn't go away. Meanwhile, shifting was not perfect even with new chain and cassette, so I changed the inner cable, which improved things. Threw on some bar tape and then decided to revise the headset a bit and raise the stem, so I dropped the fork cleaned the bearing cartridges and greased those and added a thin HS spacer to the existing line-up because I don't think I was getting good compression on the retaining cap -- not enough space between the top of the last spacer and steerer. I adjusted the HS, hit the road, and the bottom bracket creaking had disappeared. The bike is super quiet, even with a Thompson Elite post. The deal is that I could pedal out of the saddle or put my foot on the crank holding the saddle and bars and produce a nice creaking -- but that was also side-loading the front wheel/forks/HS and probably causing the HS to creak -- but it was an unmistakable BB creak. Again, I think that BB creaking can be a lot of things besides the BB. Agreed. I remember a time my "bottom bracket creak" was found to come from my saddle. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#4
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
On Sun, 20 Sep 2020 22:25:31 -0400, Frank Krygowski
wrote: Agreed. I remember a time my "bottom bracket creak" was found to come from my saddle. Once a mysterious clanking noise that just had to be somewhere in the drivetrain turned out to be a coin and a chapstick in the pocket of my jeans. Well, the leg is part of the drive train. -- Joy Beeson joy beeson at centurylink dot net http://wlweather.net/PAGEJOY/ |
#5
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 5:43:07 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
My commuter was a wreck and abandoned after the plague and shift to work-from-home, so I gave it a pannier rack, a new cassette, chain -- and to address the incessant BB creaking (Cannondale CAADX aluminum with BB30), I first tried the rear wheel, cleaning BB faces, greasing QR, etc. That didn't work. Then I removed and reinstalled the pedals with some Teflon tape. That didn't work. Then I removed the crank, got it all cleaned up and reinstalled it with grease on the axle, bearings and pinch bolts. Nope, still had creaking, so I removed the crank and knocked out the 6806 bearings, which spun like a charm and felt great -- so I wasn't going to toss them. I pressed them back in with some Loctite 609, but they didn't get long to dry because I had to go pick up dinner at the food cart. I was kind of sabotaging my work, and indeed, the creaking didn't go away. Meanwhile, shifting was not perfect even with new chain and cassette, so I changed the inner cable, which improved things. Threw on some bar tape and then decided to revise the headset a bit and raise the stem, so I dropped the fork cleaned the bearing cartridges and greased those and added a thin HS spacer to the existing line-up because I don't think I was getting good compression on the retaining cap -- not enough space between the top of the last spacer and steerer. I adjusted the HS, hit the road, and the bottom bracket creaking had disappeared.. The bike is super quiet, even with a Thompson Elite post. The deal is that I could pedal out of the saddle or put my foot on the crank holding the saddle and bars and produce a nice creaking -- but that was also side-loading the front wheel/forks/HS and probably causing the HS to creak -- but it was an unmistakable BB creak. Again, I think that BB creaking can be a lot of things besides the BB. -- Jay Beattie. In one spot in the crank revolution on the Madone when pedaling hard it will "CLICK". I would think that if it were the BB that it would click all of the time at that spot. With your posting I might try cleaning and tightening the headset again. |
#6
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 7:59:53 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote:
On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 5:43:07 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: My commuter was a wreck and abandoned after the plague and shift to work-from-home, so I gave it a pannier rack, a new cassette, chain -- and to address the incessant BB creaking (Cannondale CAADX aluminum with BB30), I first tried the rear wheel, cleaning BB faces, greasing QR, etc. That didn't work. Then I removed and reinstalled the pedals with some Teflon tape. That didn't work. Then I removed the crank, got it all cleaned up and reinstalled it with grease on the axle, bearings and pinch bolts. Nope, still had creaking, so I removed the crank and knocked out the 6806 bearings, which spun like a charm and felt great -- so I wasn't going to toss them. I pressed them back in with some Loctite 609, but they didn't get long to dry because I had to go pick up dinner at the food cart. I was kind of sabotaging my work, and indeed, the creaking didn't go away. Meanwhile, shifting was not perfect even with new chain and cassette, so I changed the inner cable, which improved things. Threw on some bar tape and then decided to revise the headset a bit and raise the stem, so I dropped the fork cleaned the bearing cartridges and greased those and added a thin HS spacer to the existing line-up because I don't think I was getting good compression on the retaining cap -- not enough space between the top of the last spacer and steerer. I adjusted the HS, hit the road, and the bottom bracket creaking had disappeared. The bike is super quiet, even with a Thompson Elite post. The deal is that I could pedal out of the saddle or put my foot on the crank holding the saddle and bars and produce a nice creaking -- but that was also side-loading the front wheel/forks/HS and probably causing the HS to creak -- but it was an unmistakable BB creak. Again, I think that BB creaking can be a lot of things besides the BB. -- Jay Beattie. In one spot in the crank revolution on the Madone when pedaling hard it will "CLICK". I would think that if it were the BB that it would click all of the time at that spot. With your posting I might try cleaning and tightening the headset again. You may in fact have a bearing issue, but it never hurts to clean and lube the headset. Like Frank said, seat posts are great resonators, too -- but if you're getting clicking out of the saddle, that's unlikely. IME, the most common cause of clicking and creaking is the rear dropout/axle on a QR bike. The clicks I couldn't solve turned out to be broken metal frames. -- Jay Beattie. |
#7
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
On 9/21/2020 8:30 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 7:59:53 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote: On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 5:43:07 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: My commuter was a wreck and abandoned after the plague and shift to work-from-home, so I gave it a pannier rack, a new cassette, chain -- and to address the incessant BB creaking (Cannondale CAADX aluminum with BB30), I first tried the rear wheel, cleaning BB faces, greasing QR, etc. That didn't work. Then I removed and reinstalled the pedals with some Teflon tape. That didn't work. Then I removed the crank, got it all cleaned up and reinstalled it with grease on the axle, bearings and pinch bolts. Nope, still had creaking, so I removed the crank and knocked out the 6806 bearings, which spun like a charm and felt great -- so I wasn't going to toss them. I pressed them back in with some Loctite 609, but they didn't get long to dry because I had to go pick up dinner at the food cart. I was kind of sabotaging my work, and indeed, the creaking didn't go away. Meanwhile, shifting was not perfect even with new chain and cassette, so I changed the inner cable, which improved things. Threw on some bar tape and then decided to revise the headset a bit and raise the stem, so I dropped the fork cleaned the bearing cartridges and greased those and added a thin HS spacer to the existing line-up because I don't think I was getting good compression on the retaining cap -- not enough space between the top of the last spacer and steerer. I adjusted the HS, hit the road, and the bottom bracket creaking had disappeared. The bike is super quiet, even with a Thompson Elite post. The deal is that I could pedal out of the saddle or put my foot on the crank holding the saddle and bars and produce a nice creaking -- but that was also side-loading the front wheel/forks/HS and probably causing the HS to creak -- but it was an unmistakable BB creak. Again, I think that BB creaking can be a lot of things besides the BB. -- Jay Beattie. In one spot in the crank revolution on the Madone when pedaling hard it will "CLICK". I would think that if it were the BB that it would click all of the time at that spot. With your posting I might try cleaning and tightening the headset again. You may in fact have a bearing issue, but it never hurts to clean and lube the headset. Like Frank said, seat posts are great resonators, too -- but if you're getting clicking out of the saddle, that's unlikely. IME, the most common cause of clicking and creaking is the rear dropout/axle on a QR bike. The clicks I couldn't solve turned out to be broken metal frames. -- Jay Beattie. Thanks for the object lesson. BTW, how exactly does one treat the rear dropout/axle creak? Just grease the dropout faces and/or locknut faces? Friend just told me about a mystery creak he had. Mark J. |
#8
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:35:16 AM UTC-7, Mark J. wrote:
On 9/21/2020 8:30 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 7:59:53 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote: On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 5:43:07 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: My commuter was a wreck and abandoned after the plague and shift to work-from-home, so I gave it a pannier rack, a new cassette, chain -- and to address the incessant BB creaking (Cannondale CAADX aluminum with BB30), I first tried the rear wheel, cleaning BB faces, greasing QR, etc. That didn't work. Then I removed and reinstalled the pedals with some Teflon tape. That didn't work. Then I removed the crank, got it all cleaned up and reinstalled it with grease on the axle, bearings and pinch bolts. Nope, still had creaking, so I removed the crank and knocked out the 6806 bearings, which spun like a charm and felt great -- so I wasn't going to toss them. I pressed them back in with some Loctite 609, but they didn't get long to dry because I had to go pick up dinner at the food cart. I was kind of sabotaging my work, and indeed, the creaking didn't go away. Meanwhile, shifting was not perfect even with new chain and cassette, so I changed the inner cable, which improved things. Threw on some bar tape and then decided to revise the headset a bit and raise the stem, so I dropped the fork cleaned the bearing cartridges and greased those and added a thin HS spacer to the existing line-up because I don't think I was getting good compression on the retaining cap -- not enough space between the top of the last spacer and steerer. I adjusted the HS, hit the road, and the bottom bracket creaking had disappeared. The bike is super quiet, even with a Thompson Elite post. The deal is that I could pedal out of the saddle or put my foot on the crank holding the saddle and bars and produce a nice creaking -- but that was also side-loading the front wheel/forks/HS and probably causing the HS to creak -- but it was an unmistakable BB creak. Again, I think that BB creaking can be a lot of things besides the BB. -- Jay Beattie. In one spot in the crank revolution on the Madone when pedaling hard it will "CLICK". I would think that if it were the BB that it would click all of the time at that spot. With your posting I might try cleaning and tightening the headset again. You may in fact have a bearing issue, but it never hurts to clean and lube the headset. Like Frank said, seat posts are great resonators, too -- but if you're getting clicking out of the saddle, that's unlikely. IME, the most common cause of clicking and creaking is the rear dropout/axle on a QR bike. The clicks I couldn't solve turned out to be broken metal frames. -- Jay Beattie. Thanks for the object lesson. BTW, how exactly does one treat the rear dropout/axle creak? Just grease the dropout faces and/or locknut faces? Friend just told me about a mystery creak he had. Mark J. Usually solved with straightening the wheel and tightening the QR. I've used a little grease, but I'm not so sure that is a joint you want to grease. I do grease the QR skewer and cam to the extent possible. -- Jay Beattie. |
#9
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
On 9/21/2020 10:46 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 9:35:16 AM UTC-7, Mark J. wrote: On 9/21/2020 8:30 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 7:59:53 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote: On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 5:43:07 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: My commuter was a wreck and abandoned after the plague and shift to work-from-home, so I gave it a pannier rack, a new cassette, chain -- and to address the incessant BB creaking (Cannondale CAADX aluminum with BB30), I first tried the rear wheel, cleaning BB faces, greasing QR, etc. That didn't work. Then I removed and reinstalled the pedals with some Teflon tape. That didn't work. Then I removed the crank, got it all cleaned up and reinstalled it with grease on the axle, bearings and pinch bolts. Nope, still had creaking, so I removed the crank and knocked out the 6806 bearings, which spun like a charm and felt great -- so I wasn't going to toss them. I pressed them back in with some Loctite 609, but they didn't get long to dry because I had to go pick up dinner at the food cart. I was kind of sabotaging my work, and indeed, the creaking didn't go away. Meanwhile, shifting was not perfect even with new chain and cassette, so I changed the inner cable, which improved things. Threw on some bar tape and then decided to revise the headset a bit and raise the stem, so I dropped the fork cleaned the bearing cartridges and greased those and added a thin HS spacer to the existing line-up because I don't think I was getting good compression on the retaining cap -- not enough space between the top of the last spacer and steerer. I adjusted the HS, hit the road, and the bottom bracket creaking had disappeared. The bike is super quiet, even with a Thompson Elite post. The deal is that I could pedal out of the saddle or put my foot on the crank holding the saddle and bars and produce a nice creaking -- but that was also side-loading the front wheel/forks/HS and probably causing the HS to creak -- but it was an unmistakable BB creak. Again, I think that BB creaking can be a lot of things besides the BB. -- Jay Beattie. In one spot in the crank revolution on the Madone when pedaling hard it will "CLICK". I would think that if it were the BB that it would click all of the time at that spot. With your posting I might try cleaning and tightening the headset again. You may in fact have a bearing issue, but it never hurts to clean and lube the headset. Like Frank said, seat posts are great resonators, too -- but if you're getting clicking out of the saddle, that's unlikely. IME, the most common cause of clicking and creaking is the rear dropout/axle on a QR bike. The clicks I couldn't solve turned out to be broken metal frames. -- Jay Beattie. Thanks for the object lesson. BTW, how exactly does one treat the rear dropout/axle creak? Just grease the dropout faces and/or locknut faces? Friend just told me about a mystery creak he had. Mark J. Usually solved with straightening the wheel and tightening the QR. I've used a little grease, but I'm not so sure that is a joint you want to grease. I do grease the QR skewer and cam to the extent possible. -- Jay Beattie. Ok, I thought greasing the dropouts sounded a little dicey. I'll tell him to grease the cam and tighten. Mark J. |
#10
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Latest BB creaking -- it was the headset.
On 9/21/2020 11:35 AM, Mark J. wrote:
On 9/21/2020 8:30 AM, jbeattie wrote: On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 7:59:53 AM UTC-7, Tom Kunich wrote: On Sunday, September 20, 2020 at 5:43:07 PM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote: My commuter was a wreck and abandoned after the plague and shift to work-from-home, so I gave it a pannier rack, a new cassette, chain -- and to address the incessant BB creaking (Cannondale CAADX aluminum with BB30), I first tried the rear wheel, cleaning BB faces, greasing QR, etc. That didn't work. Then I removed and reinstalled the pedals with some Teflon tape. That didn't work. Then I removed the crank, got it all cleaned up and reinstalled it with grease on the axle, bearings and pinch bolts. Nope, still had creaking, so I removed the crank and knocked out the 6806 bearings, which spun like a charm and felt great -- so I wasn't going to toss them. I pressed them back in with some Loctite 609, but they didn't get long to dry because I had to go pick up dinner at the food cart. I was kind of sabotaging my work, and indeed, the creaking didn't go away. Meanwhile, shifting was not perfect even with new chain and cassette, so I changed the inner cable, which improved things. Threw on some bar tape and then decided to revise the headset a bit and raise the stem, so I dropped the fork cleaned the bearing cartridges and greased those and added a thin HS spacer to the existing line-up because I don't think I was getting good compression on the retaining cap -- not enough space between the top of the last spacer and steerer. I adjusted the HS, hit the road, and the bottom bracket creaking had disappeared. The bike is super quiet, even with a Thompson Elite post. The deal is that I could pedal out of the saddle or put my foot on the crank holding the saddle and bars and produce a nice creaking -- but that was also side-loading the front wheel/forks/HS and probably causing the HS to creak -- but it was an unmistakable BB creak. Again, I think that BB creaking can be a lot of things besides the BB. -- Jay Beattie. In one spot in the crank revolution on the Madone when pedaling hard it will "CLICK". I would think that if it were the BB that it would click all of the time at that spot. With your posting I might try cleaning and tightening the headset again. You may in fact have a bearing issue, but it never hurts to clean and lube the headset. Like Frank said, seat posts are great resonators, too -- but if you're getting clicking out of the saddle, that's unlikely. IME, the most common cause of clicking and creaking is the rear dropout/axle on a QR bike. The clicks I couldn't solve turned out to be broken metal frames. -- Jay Beattie. Thanks for the object lesson. BTW, how exactly does one treat the rear dropout/axle creak? Just grease the dropout faces and/or locknut faces? Friend just told me about a mystery creak he had. Mark J. Lubricate the cam of your skewer. You can feel that difference immediately. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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