Are V brakes & Drop bar levers much better than Cantilevers?

Just wondering if there is a lot of difference in performance between
a set of V-brakes with V-brake compatible brake levers and Cantilever
brakes with regular drop bar brake levers? Do the V-brakes provide a
lot more stopping power than the cantilevers do when these are used
with drop bars?

Is it worth the cost to switch to V-brakes and levers on a drop bar
touring bike?

Thanks and cheers

On May 8, 4:31*am, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Just wondering if there is a lot of difference in performance between
a set of V-brakes with V-brake compatible brake levers and Cantilever
brakes with regular drop bar brake levers? Do the V-brakes provide a
lot more stopping power than the cantilevers do when these are used
with drop bars?

Is it worth the cost to switch to V-brakes and levers on a drop bar
touring bike?

Thanks and cheers

No. The primary benefit of "V-brakes" is their essentially invariable
leverage which makes a botched setup difficult. They do not have
inherently greater "stopping power."
http://groups.google.com/group/rec.b...3593b8ece08f11


DR

On May 8, 5:31*am, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Just wondering if there is a lot of difference in performance between
a set of V-brakes with V-brake compatible brake levers and Cantilever
brakes with regular drop bar brake levers? Do the V-brakes provide a
lot more stopping power than the cantilevers do when these are used
with drop bars?

Is it worth the cost to switch to V-brakes and levers on a drop bar
touring bike?

Thanks and cheers

Tektro levers and brakes with Koolstop replacement pads will run you
about $100. I've run this setup and found it to be superb. Worth a
switch? I dunno. I like cantis as well, especially with big fat Eagle
II pads and four finger mtb levers. The Tektro vee levers cramp my
hands a bit on the hoods--it's a fairly sharp radius compared to other
modern levers and sti stuff. Then you have the ease of setup--and I
find linear pull brakes to be my favorite braking system by far in
that regard, short of drum brakes.

DR is correct--you can change the yoke cable of cantis and get
whatever pull ratio your heart desires. Start there and with good
pads. That's what I'd do. If your parts are tired and in need of
replacement, linear pull arms are half the price of decent cantis,
something to consider, that and which lever feels best in hand for you.

On 08/05/2012 11:31, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Just wondering if there is a lot of difference in performance between
a set of V-brakes with V-brake compatible brake levers and Cantilever
brakes with regular drop bar brake levers? Do the V-brakes provide a
lot more stopping power than the cantilevers do when these are used
with drop bars?

Is it worth the cost to switch to V-brakes and levers on a drop bar
touring bike?

Thanks and cheers

It has been for me.

I have switched to Mini V brakes on the front in the last few weeks and
will never go back. 8 years of fork chatter problems are finally gone.
While the ultimate braking power probably isn't much different, it
takes less effort and the feel is better.

Pete

Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Just wondering if there is a lot of difference in performance between
a set of V-brakes with V-brake compatible brake levers and Cantilever
brakes with regular drop bar brake levers? Do the V-brakes provide a
lot more stopping power than the cantilevers do when these are used
with drop bars?

Is it worth the cost to switch to V-brakes and levers on a drop bar
touring bike?

Thanks and cheers

I've not made that switch, but I've got cantilevers on most bikes, and
V-brakes on one. I don't see much difference at all.

V-brakes don't need a frame mounted cable stop. Cable routing is a
little different, which may help or hurt, depending on the type of bike
and equipment. (Standard canti's cables get along better with my
handlebar bag.) Setup seems easier with V-brakes.

But for my road riding, I haven't felt the need for more stopping power
since I moved away from cheap chromed steel rims in the early 1970s.
Perhaps if I were mountain biking, doing long and super-steep descents,
my hands _might_ get tired. But on the road? I never panic stop. I
just watch well ahead and avoid emergencies by planning.

--
- Frank Krygowski

Sir Ridesalot wrote:

Just wondering if there is a lot of difference in performance between
a set of V-brakes with V-brake compatible brake levers and Cantilever
brakes with regular drop bar brake levers? Do the V-brakes provide a
lot more stopping power than the cantilevers do when these are used
with drop bars?

Is it worth the cost to switch to V-brakes and levers on a drop bar
touring bike?

V-brakes are not categorically stronger than wide arm cantilevers, but
they are an order of magnitude easier to set up. That means they are
often delivering close to their potential, when traditional
cantilevers rarely are.

I think it's fair to say that both linear-pull brakes and wide arm
cantilevers are categorically more powerful than narrow arm
cantilevers, because of the latter's significantly falling leverage
rate.

I can't make a judgment for you as to whether linear-pulls are worth
the expense, but there are other advantages to linear-pull brakes
besides power and ease of setup. They don't stick out as much. They
have fewer points of failure. Tektro linear-pull levers have the
longest and best hoods for gripping that I've ever seen on drop bar
levers. They don't require cable hangers, which are a nuisance in
their own right. And because of their intrinsic mechanical advantage,
they put much less stress on the cable and its anchors. That not only
makes the cable less likely to slip or fail, but makes the system feel
stiffer and snappier.

Chalo

There is no free lunch. All rim brakes face exactly the same trade-
off between lever travel and leverage. One setup might hit the sweet
spot for your particular grip strength and size, but it has nothing to
do with the type of rim brake.

JG

On Tuesday, May 8, 2012 7:14:30 AM UTC-7, Ningi wrote:
On 08/05/2012 11:31, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
Just wondering if there is a lot of difference in performance between
a set of V-brakes with V-brake compatible brake levers and Cantilever
brakes with regular drop bar brake levers? Do the V-brakes provide a
lot more stopping power than the cantilevers do when these are used
with drop bars?

Is it worth the cost to switch to V-brakes and levers on a drop bar
touring bike?

Thanks and cheers

It has been for me.

I have switched to Mini V brakes on the front in the last few weeks and
will never go back. 8 years of fork chatter problems are finally gone.
While the ultimate braking power probably isn't much different, it
takes less effort and the feel is better.

Agree! On my cross bike, I had suntour xc pro canti brakes with Campy ergo levers and the braking was horrible - squeal, chatter, shudder and if the brake pads weren't close to the rim, the lever could bottom out! Yow, I was ready to get rid of the bike.

Then I put on a "cheapie" tektro mini-v brake in the front and Zazam, the braking was transformed. No more squealing, chattering or shudder. The lever actually worked and braking was quiet and strong! Caveat, I did have to set the pads almost on top of the rim and have to deflate the tire to remove the wheel. However, I used a regular noodle and believe that an adjustable one would solve this problem.

Bottom line - I'm sold on mini-v brakes with my Campy ergo levers and won't be going back (at least in the front!) Good Luck!

Sir Ridesalot wrote in news:070bcc4a-54e2-
:

Just wondering if there is a lot of difference in performance between
a set of V-brakes with V-brake compatible brake levers and Cantilever
brakes with regular drop bar brake levers? Do the V-brakes provide a
lot more stopping power than the cantilevers do when these are used
with drop bars?

Is it worth the cost to switch to V-brakes and levers on a drop bar
touring bike?

I started with V brakes and switched to cantis as I found the constant
adjustment of V brakes a pain. Cantis tend to be easier to maintain.
The most stated reason for V brakes on a touring bike is that it is
easier to fit fenders with V brakes. I've used fenders with cantis
without any problems. Remember that V brakes take more cable pull than
cantis, so it's difficult to use then with brifters on a drop handle bar
bike. Dia Comp make V brake compatible brake levers for drop
handlebars.
If you go this route, you will need to use bar end shifters. On the
positive side, the shifter for the front ring is not indexed, which
allows wide gaps in ring sizes. (I use 24, 39, 50.) On the debit side,
the shifters are mounted on the ends of the handlebars and corrode.
I have worn out countless rear shifter levers. As the bar end shifters
are available only in the current fashion for cogs on the rear cassette,
this makes replaceing them expensive, as the levers the rear
cassette, and the chain need to be replaced at the same time. I tend
to use the levers in friction, (non-indexed) mode until the cassette and
chain need replacement and then replace the lot.

On May 8, 5:01*pm, Peter Gordon petergoATnetspace.net.au wrote:
Sir Ridesalot wrote in news:070bcc4a-54e2-
:

Just wondering if there is a lot of difference in performance between
a set of V-brakes with V-brake compatible brake levers and Cantilever
brakes with regular drop bar brake levers? Do the V-brakes provide a
lot more stopping power than the cantilevers do when these are used
with drop bars?

Is it worth the cost to switch to V-brakes and levers on a drop bar
touring bike?

I started with V brakes and switched to cantis as I found the constant
adjustment of V brakes a pain. *Cantis tend to be easier to maintain.
The most stated reason for V brakes on a touring bike is that it is
easier to fit fenders with V brakes. *I've used fenders with cantis
without any problems. *Remember that V brakes take more cable pull than
cantis, so it's difficult to use then with brifters on a drop handle bar
bike. *Dia Comp make V brake compatible brake levers for drop
handlebars.
If you go this route, you will need to use bar end shifters. *On the
positive side, the shifter for the front ring is not indexed, which
allows wide gaps in ring sizes. *(I use 24, 39, 50.) *On the debit side,
the shifters are mounted on the ends of the handlebars and corrode.
I have worn out countless rear shifter levers. *As the bar end shifters
are available only in the current fashion for cogs on the rear cassette,
this makes replaceing them expensive, as the levers *the rear
cassette, and the chain *need to be replaced at the same time. *I tend
to use the levers in friction, (non-indexed) mode until the cassette and
chain need replacement and then replace the lot.

Thanks all.

I'll stick with my cantis. I already have bar-end shifters on the bike
and have never had problems with them. I can get old-school Suntour
Ratchet Bar-End Shifters for $20.00 a pair used but in excellent
condition. I have no problem at all shifting bar-end shifters in
friction mode. I have Ultegra 8-speed bar-ends on the bike now and
they have lots of life in them yet.

Thanks again and cheers