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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
I just finished reading the article in the latest Bicycling (Sept,
2005, I think) on overweight riders. I am 6'1.5" and weigh about 188 - I am not overweight for my height (BMI: 24.5 but I am muscular from lifting weights), but I worry about stressing a very light-weight system. I am looking to spend a significant amount on a new road bike in a couple of months ( US$5000). I was considering a high-end carbon or titanium frame stock model with top-of-the-line Shimano or Campy components, but now I am wondering if this is the best approach. At my body weight and riding style (day-touring, NO racing), I doubt that a couple of extra pounds on the bike would make a big difference. I am now considering a custom frame (steel/lugged) for strength and building the bike myself (I have the tools). Do the second-best components from say, Shimano (Ultegra) differ from the top-of-the-lie (Dura-Ace) only in weight, or is there some other advantage to the Dura-Ace? I am considering a triple chainring (I like the granny :-)) and 10-speed cassette. What do you bike-types think? Thanks, Ralph |
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#2
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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
i run HD touring at 180-190 pounds with deore(per bruce gordon)with solid wheels mfg axles, cr-18 rims, 14 ga dt spokes, 25 grade bearings in finishline teflon and Cont TT on a solid basic steel lugged frame from '87 and for bumps and curbs, rough roads-its a tender rig. careful riding is essential. strict preventive maintenance. 1 year overhauls at 3-5000 miles a year |
#3
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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
If you're doing mostly "day touring", check out:
Rivendell Rambo, Romulus www.rivbike.com Bruce Gordon's BLT is arguably one of the best buys in touring bikes: www.bgcycles.com Or contact if custom steel is what you want, then check out the "Godfather of American Framebuilders" Albert Eisentraut: www.eisentraut.com Here's a real nice yellow one built up with Campy Centaur triple: http://www.litman.com/bikes/eisentraut.htm I'm sure you'll get alot of response about other fine American framebuilders too! |
#4
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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
On Wed, 03 Aug 2005 12:12:37 -0700, grk wrote:
I am 6'1.5" and weigh about 188 - I am not overweight for my height (BMI: 24.5 but I am muscular from lifting weights), but I worry about stressing a very light-weight system. You're not that big. Avoid the most delicate wheelsets and you'll be fine. At my body weight and riding style (day-touring, NO racing), I doubt that a couple of extra pounds on the bike would make a big difference. It won't. If you're day touring you might want to get something other than a pure race bike--something that can masquerade as a club bike and look zoot, but also take accessories if you need them like a rear rack and fenders. I am now considering a custom frame (steel/lugged) for strength and building the bike myself (I have the tools). Do the second-best components from say, Shimano (Ultegra) differ from the top-of-the-lie (Dura-Ace) only in weight, or is there some other advantage to the Dura-Ace? Ultegra's nicer than most of us need. I'll leave it at that. I am considering a triple chainring (I like the granny :-)) and 10-speed cassette. Yup, just a few grams extra--a granny's very much worth it. Since you say that weight isn't a huge deal and you seem to be drawn to old fashioned lugged steel, then a sporty Waterford (or equivalent) with long reach dual pivot brakes and your choice of components might be in order. You can get custom geometry and braze ons, giving you a bike that you won't grow out of. Even with fairly sturdy wheels, a steel frame, and other slightly beefier components--it's still going to end up lighter than your average race bike from 25 years ago. |
#5
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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
You can ride anything. It's just a question of how much money and time you want to spend on repairs. And this is why they are selling bikes that are so badly designed, particularly the wheels with too few spokes. Lightweight racing and day touring bikes are not built to be durable, because the makers don't expect us to depend on them. Instead, they expect (or hope) us to pour endless money into them. They've been proven right. Go for wheels with as many spokes as you can get. I still ride 36-spoke wheels. Some say it's overkill, but I don't think the weight penalty is so bad. I never true my wheels. And don't go with the narrowest tires you can find. Have your wheels built by a good wheel builder, or build them yourself, using Jobst Brandt's book as a guide. Is that book still in print? Tom |
#6
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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
I agree with Tom. I weight between 200-215, and have never really had any
problems. Currently riding a 32-spoke front wheel and 36-spoke rear on my road bike. I am reasonably gentle with it, but not more than that. I think if you avoid low-spoke-count wheels and use reasonable tires you'll be perfecty OK. "Tom Reingold" wrote in message ... You can ride anything. It's just a question of how much money and time you want to spend on repairs. And this is why they are selling bikes that are so badly designed, particularly the wheels with too few spokes. Lightweight racing and day touring bikes are not built to be durable, because the makers don't expect us to depend on them. Instead, they expect (or hope) us to pour endless money into them. They've been proven right. Go for wheels with as many spokes as you can get. I still ride 36-spoke wheels. Some say it's overkill, but I don't think the weight penalty is so bad. I never true my wheels. And don't go with the narrowest tires you can find. Have your wheels built by a good wheel builder, or build them yourself, using Jobst Brandt's book as a guide. Is that book still in print? Tom |
#7
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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
I'm about your same size (6'3" 185#) and I have not had many problems
with high end stuff. Just stay away from the "stupid light" stuff. I broke 3 seatpost clamps, switched to Thomson seatposts on my bikes and have not had a problem since - I would highly recommend one. Ultegra components are more than adequate. I have ridden Ti and Aluminum frames without any problems. A friend of mine (6'4" 195#) rides a Calfee carbon fiber frame and that thing is tuff. If you go carbon, buy a Calfee. http://www.calfeedesign.com/ my 0.02 -n |
#8
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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
I think that every $500 you spend beyond $1500 on today's production
bikes buys one year of early failure in the frameset. (vs. a 20-year lifetime for a welded aluminum framset.) When you get to $5000 you are talking about a 5-10 year product, tops. That's what I think. If you are willing to "fight the power" then buy a steel lugged frameset (maybe from Waterford?) and enjoy 100 years of longevity. - Don Gillies San Diego, CA |
#9
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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
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#10
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Q: High-end components for a heavy rider
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