#21
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Powder Coating
On 2017-08-18 11:09, Ian Field wrote:
wrote in message ... On Thursday, August 17, 2017 at 7:26:37 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote: On 2017-08-16 13:39, Ian Field wrote: "Joerg" wrote in message ... On 2017-08-16 06:53, wrote: The colors and consistencies you can get in powder coating is fantastic. I found some slightly metallic very bright blue. The problem is that powder coaters are not bicycle painters so the rear dropouts that are chromed will be covered as well as everything else. So does anyone have an idea of how to remove the powder coating from the dropouts without destroying the chrome at the same time? AFAIK it's done the traditional way: https://itstillruns.com/remove-paint...e-4809619.html Paint is totally different to powder coat, AFAIK: traditional masking will tend to rip off a strip of coating where you want it to stay. Powder coating is most often done electrostatically - I vaguely remember something about painting melted wax onto the chrome bits. The right kind of wax is an insulator that doesn't electrostatically hold the sprayed on powder - or not so much anyway. The end result still needs a bit of finishing round the edges - but you shouldn't end up having to strip it back and start over. It's being done: http://www.powdercoatguide.com/2013/08/masking.html The edge line won't always be as sharp as with paint but on the near the inside of the rear dropouts I guess it won't even be a cosmetic issue. This is good information since I was worried about the rear wheel adjusters. The frame had a worn out bottom bracket so I left it installed to protect the threads. If they do not remove it right after coating it will become thoroughly caked in place. You could possibly still pry it loose but then some of the new powder coat will chip off. They should be able to pretect threads without the BB being installed. Also, on the drive side you'd want a clean non-coated face or the newly mounted BB may not seat itself properly. The only thing I was concerned about was perhaps masking off the chrome rear dropouts but decided that it wouldn't matter because the powder coat is just as nice looking as the chrome would be. The powder coat will crush when you tighten up - soon looks scruffy. That, and it has too much give, making for a mushy axle mount. I would not want powder coat on that surface. Even less for the BB. I'd really have them mask such areas. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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#22
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Powder Coating
On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 19:08:03 +0100, "Ian Field"
wrote: "John B." wrote in message .. . On Thu, 17 Aug 2017 18:50:43 +0100, "Ian Field" wrote: "John B." wrote in message ... On Wed, 16 Aug 2017 21:39:23 +0100, "Ian Field" wrote: "Joerg" wrote in message ... On 2017-08-16 06:53, wrote: The colors and consistencies you can get in powder coating is fantastic. I found some slightly metallic very bright blue. The problem is that powder coaters are not bicycle painters so the rear dropouts that are chromed will be covered as well as everything else. So does anyone have an idea of how to remove the powder coating from the dropouts without destroying the chrome at the same time? AFAIK it's done the traditional way: https://itstillruns.com/remove-paint...e-4809619.html Paint is totally different to powder coat, AFAIK: traditional masking will tend to rip off a strip of coating where you want it to stay. Powder coating is most often done electrostatically - I vaguely remember something about painting melted wax onto the chrome bits. The right kind of wax is an insulator that doesn't electrostatically hold the sprayed on powder - or not so much anyway. The end result still needs a bit of finishing round the edges - but you shouldn't end up having to strip it back and start over. I usually have bike frames powder coated in two or more colors and the people that do it here are quite adept at masking. Whether to cover chrome plating or just where two colors join. I'm told that they use a "special masking tape" that will withstand the oven temperature. Probably OK if you apply it thin enough, but that stuff has tensile strength. I'm not sure what you mean here. "Tensile strength"? You have to cut round what you want to peel off or it peels off a lot more than you want. Probably the reason I don't have any problem is that "my shop" gives me the frame ready to install the parts. No tape at all :-) |
#23
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Powder Coating
I know I'm repeating myself, but nobody else can mask your frame for painting as well as you can do it yourself, because you can take the time. I sure do like masking it myself and painting it with single-stage automotive paint. It's easy to buff out and re-spray if it gets scratched. In my humblest of opines, I think powder coat may be overkill.
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#24
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Powder Coating
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#26
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Powder Coating
On Sun, 20 Aug 2017 07:34:18 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 1:43:40 AM UTC-7, wrote: On Sat, 19 Aug 2017 07:22:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote: I know I'm repeating myself, but nobody else can mask your frame for painting as well as you can do it yourself, because you can take the time. I sure do like masking it myself and painting it with single-stage automotive paint. It's easy to buff out and re-spray if it gets scratched. In my humblest of opines, I think powder coat may be overkill. Perhaps it is. On the other hand I can take a rusty, old, oily, frame with a number of newly brazed on bits and leave it with "my powder coater" , pick it up in about a week, and it looks pretty fine... cost is about $15 or $20. I did, some time ago, check with a bloke who paints boats using two part paint and while he had never painted a bike and wouldn't quote a firm price mentioned "the neighborhood of $50, or maybe more". (which to be honest is why I prefer powder coating :-) As for do it yourself it is costly for only a few frames as you will need a proper spray gun and a source of compressed air, a paint booth, or some way to be certain that you can paint in a dust free area, and in my experience proper two part paint is seldom sold in small lots. International Perfection is running about $100 a quart. Plus the thinner is probably $15 - $20 a quart. I don't know where you live but it must be out in the wilds of Nebraska. A powder coating job on a frame here normally cost about $150 and the one I'm getting uses some special powder coat that is only available from a company that the local coater doesn't normally do business with so they have to pay full retail for the powder and all the paperwork that involves so it will be $210. My powder coating guy is in Phuket, Thailand, which is a tourist resort and thus living costs more expensive then the usually Thai small town. As for price, I have had a number of frames done there in the past year or so and I get charged the same whether it is one color, two color, or two color plus clear coat. Assuming that it is a color that they have in stock. From discussions with them they set prices according to the area that is powder coated and a bicycle frame doesn't have too many square inches. Salaries are lower here due to a lower cost of living and you have to pay the help whether they are smoking cigarettes or masking bike frames and because Thailand has universal medical care there is no add ons for Medicare, etc., so labour costs are essentially what you hand the guy on payday. It probably makes a difference. If I get a color they normally use it is normally a day or two but it's been over a week and they haven't even started meaning the powder hasn't shown up. I can't even begin to guess what the charge would be if I asked for a special color, but I'd guess it would be high considering the trouble of ordering something special, CIF to Thailand, along with the fact that probably nobody will ever want that color again, etc. :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
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