Octalink ES25 replacement?

On Saturday, August 19, 2017 at 9:23:56 AM UTC-7, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, August 19, 2017 at 7:50:50 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-19 07:42, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/19/2017 10:04 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-18 18:05, jbeattie wrote:


You have a mid-fi Fuji with parts that are at least a decade old (if
it has Octalink).


I have a low-fi Mitsubishi offroad vehicle. Yet that doesn't have any
problems whatsoever.

I _strongly_ suspect you exaggerate the reliability and longevity of
your motor vehicles even more than you exaggerate the faults of your
bicycles. I keep maintenance records on my cars, and I know what repairs
are necessary to keep a car running for my normal ten year replacement
cycle, let alone the 18 years I kept one car. Your claims about never
burning out even a dome light are totally unrealistic.


It's fact. Also, that vehicle is now at close to 78000 miles. Try that
with a bicycle.

Hmm. Sounds like time for timing belt --or did you do that at 60K? What did that cost you? How about wheel bearing seals, brake pads, rotors? With all the super-gnarly roads, I would expect your shocks to be exhausted.

Now, I know that this is a gifted group, but most ordinary people (including me) can't/wont change a timing belt on a Mitsubishi. They would pay maybe $4-5 hundred for a shop to do that. Most people can do a wide range of repairs on a bicycle with a pocket tool. Ultegra BB -- $16.

You can buy a bullet-proof shaft drive bike. You should do that. https://www.biketownpdx.com/how-it-works/meet-the-bike People creep all over Portland on those things. I'm sure it would accept a growler cage.

Ford made a motor with a rubber timing belt that was expected to be replaced every 50,000 miles. Most of them were never replaced until they jumped the timing over 75,000 miles.

On Saturday, August 19, 2017 at 11:34:03 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-19 09:23, jbeattie wrote:
On Saturday, August 19, 2017 at 7:50:50 AM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-19 07:42, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/19/2017 10:04 AM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-18 18:05, jbeattie wrote:


You have a mid-fi Fuji with parts that are at least a decade
old (if it has Octalink).


I have a low-fi Mitsubishi offroad vehicle. Yet that doesn't
have any problems whatsoever.

I _strongly_ suspect you exaggerate the reliability and longevity
of your motor vehicles even more than you exaggerate the faults
of your bicycles. I keep maintenance records on my cars, and I
know what repairs are necessary to keep a car running for my
normal ten year replacement cycle, let alone the 18 years I kept
one car. Your claims about never burning out even a dome light
are totally unrealistic.


It's fact. Also, that vehicle is now at close to 78000 miles. Try
that with a bicycle.

Hmm. Sounds like time for timing belt --or did you do that at 60K?
What did that cost you?


Handbook says at 100k. I did it anyhow after 15 years. Material costs
were under $200 but I didn't want to do it myself and paid the shop.
Pure PM, the old belt (it;s two in my case) were perfectly ok. My wife's
Toyota is not an impact engine so it still has the old belt after 22
years and runs fine.


... How about wheel bearing seals, brake pads,
rotors? With all the super-gnarly roads, I would expect your shocks
to be exhausted.


None of the above, so $0.00. Yes, this included gnarly "forest highways"
to haul firewood where I pushed the load limit of the vehicle. It hit
the rubbers the whole ride. Didn't bother it at all.


Now, I know that this is a gifted group, but most ordinary people
(including me) can't/wont change a timing belt on a Mitsubishi.


Not very difficult. Actually a teenager in the neighborhood does all the
timing belts on the family's cars. I mainly didn't do it because it
requires a lot of bending over and my lower back isn't in good shape.


... They
would pay maybe $4-5 hundred for a shop to do that. Most people can
do a wide range of repairs on a bicycle with a pocket tool. Ultegra
BB -- $16.


The vast majority of cyclists I know drop off their bikes at their LBS
to have that done. Also, a BB will not even budge using a pocket tool.
You and I have the tools to change it out that but most cyclists don't.


You can buy a bullet-proof shaft drive bike. You should do that.
https://www.biketownpdx.com/how-it-works/meet-the-bike People creep
all over Portland on those things. I'm sure it would accept a growler
cage.


That doesn't prevent BB wear :-)

I have had some minor problems with my '99 Ford Taurus but I wanted a newer car so I just picked up a '07. While looking at cars most of them have over 125,000 and have had maybe one oil change. People do not maintain cars and they don't break. Pretending that most failures of cars are not manufacturing errors is pretty silly.

On 8/20/2017 9:37 AM, wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 6:11:41 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2017 8:05 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 4:10:10 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-18 13:32, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 3:01:02 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 19:10, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/17/2017 7:13 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 07:17, jbeattie wrote:


I should be like Joerg and complain about spending money on
replacements. My crappy ISIS BB didn't last a lifetime! ISIS was
the only thing worse than Octalink.


And here you guys razz me for being too critical of the quality of
bicycle parts. In the automotive world a manufacturer with such
failure rates would be our business prontissimo.

Imagine you were a car commuter and the equivalent happened with your
car. The drive shafts conks out in due course, you go through
universal joints like Kleenex, the steering wheel breaks, then the
transmission wears out, in less than two years the wheel bearings
start singing the blues. Oh, and then the car's chassis develops a big
fat crack at a structurally critical location. A car owner would be up
in arms about that. Yet with bicycles we are expected to find this
perfectly normal?

There are choices, Joerg. You (like most of us here) choose to buy sport
bikes - that is, bikes that compete in the market by trying to be fairly
lightweight, bikes that use "innovative" designs for components, bikes
designed for higher performance or off-road banging about.


Since when is a XC MTB a sport bike? Also, I have an SUV, a _sport_
utility vehicle. In over 20 years not even a bulb in a dome light has
ever dared to burn out.


You have the opportunity to buy bikes with much stouter components. Buy
yourself one of the upright Dutch utility bikes! Every part of it would
probably last much longer than what you chose to buy. Yes, it may weigh
50 pounds, but you've repeatedly told us you don't care about weight.


Having lived in the Netherlands I have ridden those. Guess what, they
broke. The first thing I thoroughly crunched was ... the BB. All the way
so riding home had become immpossible.


You're like a guy who buys an Alfa Romeo and complains that it's more
fragile than his neighbor's dump truck.


Nope. I'd never buy an Alfa, that's not for me. Just like I won't buy
some super-light carbon fiber deal for a bicycle.

So even a Dutch bike isn't rugged enough for you?


I was by far not the only one breaking them.


Then buy yourself one of these http://www.worksmancycles.com/indtrikes.html
and stop whining. Sheesh.


Have you looked more closely at the cranks and BB area? Appears to be
similar to what one finds on department store MTB. If so, how long will
that last?

http://www.worksmancycles.com/media/2014/m2620.jpg

If my MTB ever gives up so badly or suffers a crash that a repair isn't
economical I will be looking for a DH-MTB. 8" suspension travel, 8"
rotors, double-crown fork, the works. Always learning. However, the
frame I picked out is already a rather good one. It's the mounted parts
that are failing and that isn't much different for other riders around
here. Not all of them being clydes.

You have a mid-fi Fuji with parts that are at least a decade old (if it has Octalink). You purport to thrash that bike. Expect to replace parts. Bike parts do not last as long as car parts. Cars parts do not last as long as brass toilet parts. Brass toilet parts do not last as long as Egyptian pyramids. Egyptian pyramids do not last as long as the sun. The material world has a shelf-life. Embrace it.

-- Jay Beattie.


+1
Especially on that spline crank thing, "It's for selling"

Actually it was for removing a crank without special tools and worked well in that manner.


Except for V1, V2 & ISIS cranks falling off in use, that's
not true, you need a fat-end crank puller:
http://cdn.hibike.com/image/product/...Z_CyKAS-il.jpg

or the Shimano insert for a regular crank remover:
https://static.bike-components.de/ca...481264013.jpeg

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 8:10:04 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/20/2017 9:37 AM, wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 6:11:41 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2017 8:05 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 4:10:10 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-18 13:32, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 3:01:02 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 19:10, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/17/2017 7:13 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 07:17, jbeattie wrote:


I should be like Joerg and complain about spending money on
replacements. My crappy ISIS BB didn't last a lifetime! ISIS was
the only thing worse than Octalink.


And here you guys razz me for being too critical of the quality of
bicycle parts. In the automotive world a manufacturer with such
failure rates would be our business prontissimo.

Imagine you were a car commuter and the equivalent happened with your
car. The drive shafts conks out in due course, you go through
universal joints like Kleenex, the steering wheel breaks, then the
transmission wears out, in less than two years the wheel bearings
start singing the blues. Oh, and then the car's chassis develops a big
fat crack at a structurally critical location. A car owner would be up
in arms about that. Yet with bicycles we are expected to find this
perfectly normal?

There are choices, Joerg. You (like most of us here) choose to buy sport
bikes - that is, bikes that compete in the market by trying to be fairly
lightweight, bikes that use "innovative" designs for components, bikes
designed for higher performance or off-road banging about.


Since when is a XC MTB a sport bike? Also, I have an SUV, a _sport_
utility vehicle. In over 20 years not even a bulb in a dome light has
ever dared to burn out.


You have the opportunity to buy bikes with much stouter components. Buy
yourself one of the upright Dutch utility bikes! Every part of it would
probably last much longer than what you chose to buy. Yes, it may weigh
50 pounds, but you've repeatedly told us you don't care about weight.


Having lived in the Netherlands I have ridden those. Guess what, they
broke. The first thing I thoroughly crunched was ... the BB. All the way
so riding home had become immpossible.


You're like a guy who buys an Alfa Romeo and complains that it's more
fragile than his neighbor's dump truck.


Nope. I'd never buy an Alfa, that's not for me. Just like I won't buy
some super-light carbon fiber deal for a bicycle.

So even a Dutch bike isn't rugged enough for you?


I was by far not the only one breaking them.


Then buy yourself one of these http://www.worksmancycles.com/indtrikes.html
and stop whining. Sheesh.


Have you looked more closely at the cranks and BB area? Appears to be
similar to what one finds on department store MTB. If so, how long will
that last?

http://www.worksmancycles.com/media/2014/m2620.jpg

If my MTB ever gives up so badly or suffers a crash that a repair isn't
economical I will be looking for a DH-MTB. 8" suspension travel, 8"
rotors, double-crown fork, the works. Always learning. However, the
frame I picked out is already a rather good one. It's the mounted parts
that are failing and that isn't much different for other riders around
here. Not all of them being clydes.

You have a mid-fi Fuji with parts that are at least a decade old (if it has Octalink). You purport to thrash that bike. Expect to replace parts.. Bike parts do not last as long as car parts. Cars parts do not last as long as brass toilet parts. Brass toilet parts do not last as long as Egyptian pyramids. Egyptian pyramids do not last as long as the sun. The material world has a shelf-life. Embrace it.

-- Jay Beattie.


+1
Especially on that spline crank thing, "It's for selling"

Actually it was for removing a crank without special tools and worked well in that manner.


Except for V1, V2 & ISIS cranks falling off in use, that's
not true, you need a fat-end crank puller:
http://cdn.hibike.com/image/product/...Z_CyKAS-il.jpg

or the Shimano insert for a regular crank remover:
https://static.bike-components.de/ca...481264013.jpeg

I think he means the built-in puller in the cap -- a feature on the Octalink cranks. So you can pull them off and throw them away with only a single tool.

This is the perfect entre for my next rant -- changing standards and accumulating tools. Latest is the Cannondale CAADX replacement frame that I picked up yesterday -- and about strained my back. That is not a light frame. Oh well, it will make a good bomber commuter.

So, it has BB30 -- a minus right there for a commuter because BB30 bearings are less convenient and typically more noisy than threaded. No big deal, though. I have a press. I took it in the shorts and bought some Enduro bearings from the shop that did the warranty exchange just to support my LBS. The price was outrageous for pretty standard 6806 bearing. Thank gawd it doesn't have BB30A because then I couldn't recycle my SRAM BB30 crank.

In fact, the overly-tatooed guy in service who saw my dismay at the price said, "but they are fully sealed with two seals." I couldn't help myself and said I would hope that a 6806-2RS has two rubber seals. I said it with a smile and a far-away look because I was transfixed by another mechanic who had gauges in his ears the size of Starbucks coffee cup lids. It was like National Geographic goes to the bike shop. All of them had tattoo sleeves. If I were a mechanic with tattoo sleeves, I would have a bunch of useful information on my arms -- like standard bearing sizes -- maybe a spoke length calculator, torque specs for various fasteners. The amount if ink in there was staggering.

Next is the flat mount rear disc brake -- which is cool and au courant, but now I have to buy one -- probably a TRP mechanical. I want mechanical with the beater commuter. I'd buy an adapter for my rear BB7, but it was kind of limp anyway. I never did have really good rear braking on that.

And then there is the headset -- integrated but an odd taper from 1 1/8 to 1 1/4, which means NO Cane Creek 40 series cheap fit. I could go an FSA with Campy 45/45 bearings, but I think I can use the HS off my broken SuperSix which is a 42/47mm with 33mm crown race -- same dimensions. BUT, I don't have a 1 1/4 crown race setting tool, so I'll go get some PVC pipe and kludge it. Another tool or tool-like item.

Next I need the removable fender bridge which Cannondale did not send with the frame for some reason, and the shop that did the work (where I bought the bike) is no longer selling Cannondale. This is a part-time job. I'm going to throw my old 9 speed stuff on it. The nice part is that the fork does have fender mounts -- but NO crown through hole (just a threaded insert in back), so I'll have to kludge something for the dyno light, which I mount on the crown. Or I'll skip it -- but the mood light would fit right in on this frame.

-- Jay Beattie.

On 8/20/2017 11:18 AM, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 8:10:04 AM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/20/2017 9:37 AM, wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 6:11:41 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2017 8:05 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 4:10:10 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-18 13:32, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 3:01:02 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 19:10, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/17/2017 7:13 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 07:17, jbeattie wrote:

-snip all on-topic-

...I was transfixed by another mechanic who had gauges in his ears the size of Starbucks coffee cup lids. It was like National Geographic goes to the bike shop. All of them had tattoo sleeves. If I were a mechanic with tattoo sleeves, I would have a bunch of useful information on my arms -- like standard bearing sizes -- maybe a spoke length calculator, torque specs for various fasteners. The amount if ink in there was staggering.

http://www.yellowjersey.org/photosfr...t/SPOKFORM.JPG

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 20-08-17 16:19, Joerg wrote:
No argument there. If I needed a new bike and one with shaft drive was
available I'd certainly prefer that over chain-driven. There are many
reasons why BMW builds so many shaft-driven motorcycles.

Have you ever considered a Gates belt drive? See
http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/ (You can switch the text to German if
you prefer).

Of course it would also require shifting via the hub or at the bottom
bracket. Maybe therefore best for E-bikes, where one doesn't have to
worry about extra weight. So not for me and probably not for you.

Ned

On Sun, 20 Aug 2017 07:21:42 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-20 00:19, wrote:
On Sat, 19 Aug 2017 07:07:19 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-18 22:19, wrote:
On Fri, 18 Aug 2017 12:01:08 -0700, Joerg
wrote:

On 2017-08-17 19:10, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/17/2017 7:13 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 07:17, jbeattie wrote:


I should be like Joerg and complain about spending money on
replacements. My crappy ISIS BB didn't last a lifetime! ISIS was
the only thing worse than Octalink.


And here you guys razz me for being too critical of the quality of
bicycle parts. In the automotive world a manufacturer with such
failure rates would be our business prontissimo.

Imagine you were a car commuter and the equivalent happened with your
car. The drive shafts conks out in due course, you go through
universal joints like Kleenex, the steering wheel breaks, then the
transmission wears out, in less than two years the wheel bearings
start singing the blues. Oh, and then the car's chassis develops a big
fat crack at a structurally critical location. A car owner would be up
in arms about that. Yet with bicycles we are expected to find this
perfectly normal?

There are choices, Joerg. You (like most of us here) choose to buy sport
bikes - that is, bikes that compete in the market by trying to be fairly
lightweight, bikes that use "innovative" designs for components, bikes
designed for higher performance or off-road banging about.


Since when is a XC MTB a sport bike? Also, I have an SUV, a _sport_
utility vehicle. In over 20 years not even a bulb in a dome light has
ever dared to burn out.


Being a enthusiast I'm sure that you know that the so called "SUV" was
developed in order to evade the CAFE standards, and clean air
regulations, by building a vehicle based on a pickup truck chasses and
classified as a truck so as not having to comply with the fuel
consumption and emissions laws regarding passenger cars..


Where did you pick up that urban legend? My SUV (built on a truck
chassis) must pass the very same emissions standards as the Mitsubishi
Eclipse which has the same engine. Gets tested every two years just like
passenger cars. Same for all the other SUVs around here.


What part of "was developed" is it that you do not understand?


It's still wrong. One of the first SUVs ever developed was the Unimog
and it had to pass inspections just like other cars. That was "a tad"
before 1994.


Err, the first Unimog was built in 1946, not 1994, and Daimler-Benz
took over manufacture of the Unimog in 1951, not 1994.

However, in 1994 Mercedes Benz built twelve examples of the "Funmog"
with luxury extras such as leather seats and carpets. It was the most
expensive Unimog, with prices starting at DM150,000.

Perhaps you are confused.

Initially, way back when the SUV was invented the emissions standards
we

Tier 1:
Were phased in from 1994 to 1997, and were phased out in favor of the
national Tier 2 standard, from 2004 to 2009.

Tier I standards cover vehicles with a gross vehicular weight rating
(GVWR) below 8,500 pounds (3,856 kg) and are divided into five
categories: one for passenger cars, and four for light-duty trucks
(which include SUVs and minivans) divided up based on the vehicle
weight and cargo capacity.

"SUV" redirects here. For other uses, see SUV (disambiguation).

A sport utility vehicle or suburban utility vehicle (SUV) is a vehicle
classified as a light truck, but operated as a family vehicle

All from the Wiki


Yeah, and Wiki knows it all.

Well, given that anyone that knows something about the subject is free
to edit the Wiki entries I find that generally it is more accurate
then what a single author expounds about a subject that he/she/it so
obviously knows nothing about.
--
Cheers,

John B.

writes:

On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 6:11:41 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2017 8:05 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 4:10:10 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-18 13:32, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 3:01:02 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 19:10, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/17/2017 7:13 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 07:17, jbeattie wrote:


I should be like Joerg and complain about spending money on
replacements. My crappy ISIS BB didn't last a lifetime! ISIS was
the only thing worse than Octalink.


And here you guys razz me for being too critical of the quality of
bicycle parts. In the automotive world a manufacturer with such
failure rates would be our business prontissimo.

Imagine you were a car commuter and the equivalent happened with your
car. The drive shafts conks out in due course, you go through
universal joints like Kleenex, the steering wheel breaks, then the
transmission wears out, in less than two years the wheel bearings
start singing the blues. Oh, and then the car's chassis develops a big
fat crack at a structurally critical location. A car owner would be up
in arms about that. Yet with bicycles we are expected to find this
perfectly normal?

There are choices, Joerg. You (like most of us here) choose to buy sport
bikes - that is, bikes that compete in the market by trying to be fairly
lightweight, bikes that use "innovative" designs for components, bikes
designed for higher performance or off-road banging about.


Since when is a XC MTB a sport bike? Also, I have an SUV, a _sport_
utility vehicle. In over 20 years not even a bulb in a dome light has
ever dared to burn out.


You have the opportunity to buy bikes with much stouter components. Buy
yourself one of the upright Dutch utility bikes! Every part of it would
probably last much longer than what you chose to buy. Yes, it may weigh
50 pounds, but you've repeatedly told us you don't care about weight.


Having lived in the Netherlands I have ridden those. Guess what, they
broke. The first thing I thoroughly crunched was ... the BB. All the way
so riding home had become immpossible.


You're like a guy who buys an Alfa Romeo and complains that it's more
fragile than his neighbor's dump truck.


Nope. I'd never buy an Alfa, that's not for me. Just like I won't buy
some super-light carbon fiber deal for a bicycle.

So even a Dutch bike isn't rugged enough for you?


I was by far not the only one breaking them.


Then buy yourself one of these http://www.worksmancycles.com/indtrikes.html
and stop whining. Sheesh.


Have you looked more closely at the cranks and BB area? Appears to be
similar to what one finds on department store MTB. If so, how long will
that last?

http://www.worksmancycles.com/media/2014/m2620.jpg

If my MTB ever gives up so badly or suffers a crash that a repair isn't
economical I will be looking for a DH-MTB. 8" suspension travel, 8"
rotors, double-crown fork, the works. Always learning. However, the
frame I picked out is already a rather good one. It's the mounted parts
that are failing and that isn't much different for other riders around
here. Not all of them being clydes.

You have a mid-fi Fuji with parts that are at least a decade old
(if it has Octalink). You purport to thrash that bike. Expect to
replace parts. Bike parts do not last as long as car parts. Cars
parts do not last as long as brass toilet parts. Brass toilet
parts do not last as long as Egyptian pyramids. Egyptian pyramids
do not last as long as the sun. The material world has a
shelf-life. Embrace it.

-- Jay Beattie.


+1
Especially on that spline crank thing, "It's for selling"

Actually it was for removing a crank without special tools and worked well in that manner.

Didn't Sugino Autex do that for square taper?



--

On 8/20/2017 8:37 PM, Radey Shouman wrote:
writes:

On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 6:11:41 PM UTC-7, AMuzi wrote:
On 8/18/2017 8:05 PM, jbeattie wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 4:10:10 PM UTC-7, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-18 13:32, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 3:01:02 PM UTC-4, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 19:10, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 8/17/2017 7:13 PM, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-08-17 07:17, jbeattie wrote:


I should be like Joerg and complain about spending money on
replacements. My crappy ISIS BB didn't last a lifetime! ISIS was
the only thing worse than Octalink.


And here you guys razz me for being too critical of the quality of
bicycle parts. In the automotive world a manufacturer with such
failure rates would be our business prontissimo.

Imagine you were a car commuter and the equivalent happened with your
car. The drive shafts conks out in due course, you go through
universal joints like Kleenex, the steering wheel breaks, then the
transmission wears out, in less than two years the wheel bearings
start singing the blues. Oh, and then the car's chassis develops a big
fat crack at a structurally critical location. A car owner would be up
in arms about that. Yet with bicycles we are expected to find this
perfectly normal?

There are choices, Joerg. You (like most of us here) choose to buy sport
bikes - that is, bikes that compete in the market by trying to be fairly
lightweight, bikes that use "innovative" designs for components, bikes
designed for higher performance or off-road banging about.


Since when is a XC MTB a sport bike? Also, I have an SUV, a _sport_
utility vehicle. In over 20 years not even a bulb in a dome light has
ever dared to burn out.


You have the opportunity to buy bikes with much stouter components. Buy
yourself one of the upright Dutch utility bikes! Every part of it would
probably last much longer than what you chose to buy. Yes, it may weigh
50 pounds, but you've repeatedly told us you don't care about weight.


Having lived in the Netherlands I have ridden those. Guess what, they
broke. The first thing I thoroughly crunched was ... the BB. All the way
so riding home had become immpossible.


You're like a guy who buys an Alfa Romeo and complains that it's more
fragile than his neighbor's dump truck.


Nope. I'd never buy an Alfa, that's not for me. Just like I won't buy
some super-light carbon fiber deal for a bicycle.

So even a Dutch bike isn't rugged enough for you?


I was by far not the only one breaking them.


Then buy yourself one of these http://www.worksmancycles.com/indtrikes.html
and stop whining. Sheesh.


Have you looked more closely at the cranks and BB area? Appears to be
similar to what one finds on department store MTB. If so, how long will
that last?

http://www.worksmancycles.com/media/2014/m2620.jpg

If my MTB ever gives up so badly or suffers a crash that a repair isn't
economical I will be looking for a DH-MTB. 8" suspension travel, 8"
rotors, double-crown fork, the works. Always learning. However, the
frame I picked out is already a rather good one. It's the mounted parts
that are failing and that isn't much different for other riders around
here. Not all of them being clydes.

You have a mid-fi Fuji with parts that are at least a decade old
(if it has Octalink). You purport to thrash that bike. Expect to
replace parts. Bike parts do not last as long as car parts. Cars
parts do not last as long as brass toilet parts. Brass toilet
parts do not last as long as Egyptian pyramids. Egyptian pyramids
do not last as long as the sun. The material world has a
shelf-life. Embrace it.

-- Jay Beattie.


+1
Especially on that spline crank thing, "It's for selling"

Actually it was for removing a crank without special tools and worked well in that manner.

Didn't Sugino Autex do that for square taper?




Yes. They are functionally identical; m22x1 cap over either
a large or small crank bolt.

The Campagnolo version overanalyzed the problem with a
reverse m22x1 thread.

--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org/
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

On 2017-08-20 11:51, Ned Mantei wrote:
On 20-08-17 16:19, Joerg wrote:
No argument there. If I needed a new bike and one with shaft drive was
available I'd certainly prefer that over chain-driven. There are many
reasons why BMW builds so many shaft-driven motorcycles.

Have you ever considered a Gates belt drive? See
http://www.gatescarbondrive.com/ (You can switch the text to German if
you prefer).

Of course it would also require shifting via the hub or at the bottom
bracket. Maybe therefore best for E-bikes, where one doesn't have to
worry about extra weight. So not for me and probably not for you.


It is certainly an idea. However, I'd expect some numbers behind their
statement, quote "Our carbon reinforced belts last longer than chains,
....". Miles, cost, cents per mile and such. Looking around their web
site I found nothing. Also, as you wrote it would require a Rohloff
transmission and that would mean a whopping $1500 extra. Cheaper ones
would unlikely survive my riding.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/