New Bike Recommendations Needed

I'm interested in getting some opinions/recommendations on a new lower-end
road bike to replace my two-year-old Trek 7300 Hybrid. Overall I've been
pleased with the 7300, but I find that I really miss the drop handlebars.
My riding is mostly fitness and recreational and occurs mostly on paved
roads. However, I do have a need for a bike which can handle packed dirt
roads without suffering severe tire/wheel/frame damage. Typically I only
ride 50+ miles a week over flat to moderately hilly terrain. I'm also not
inclined to spend a fortune on a new bike. Ideally I would like to spend
less than $1000 and probably no more than $1500.

I've been looking at some of the new 'comfort' road bikes produced by Trek
and Specialized. In particular the Trek 1000C/1200C and the Specialized
Sequoia series. I've also read good things about the Bianchi Volpe. They
all seem to be in the right price range and seem to be closer to a hybrid
bike than a road bike. Are there other bikes by other manufacturers which
are similar? One question I have about all of these bikes is how wide of a
tire I could put on them. They seem to come with 700x28C tires by default.
My hybrid has 700x38C tires. Could I put 700x38c tires on any of these
bikes? I'm also not sure how to evaluate the different equipment groups
which come on these bikes. For example, the Trek 1000C uses Shimano Sora
components and sells for around $600. The low-end Specialized Sequoia uses
Sora components but sells in the $800 range. The 1200C and the Volpe,
which are closer to the $900 range, use Shimano Tiagra. The mid-level
Specialized Sequoia uses Shimano New 105 components and sells for $1200.
What are the major differences between these components and would a casual
rider such as myself really benefit from spending hundreds of dollars more
for better components? Obviously one thing to do is try the bikes out to
see which feels the best, but I'd still like opinions about what people
like and don't like about the various components.

I'm interested in any opinions that people may have on bikes which may meet
my requirements.

Thanks.

--
James Howe

In article ,
says...
I'm interested in getting some opinions/recommendations on a new lower-end
road bike to replace my two-year-old Trek 7300 Hybrid. Overall I've been
pleased with the 7300, but I find that I really miss the drop handlebars.
My riding is mostly fitness and recreational and occurs mostly on paved
roads. However, I do have a need for a bike which can handle packed dirt
roads without suffering severe tire/wheel/frame damage. Typically I only
ride 50+ miles a week over flat to moderately hilly terrain. I'm also not
inclined to spend a fortune on a new bike. Ideally I would like to spend
less than $1000 and probably no more than $1500.

You could also look at the Bianchi San Remo ($1100 street price) and the
Fuji Touring ($800 street price)

....

--
Dave Kerber
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I am a big fan of Bianchi. Their bikes ride so smooth and they have a lot
of value for the money.

Pat in TX

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:

I am a big fan of Bianchi. Their bikes ride so smooth and they have
a lot of value for the money.

How do you mean that? Is this the smoothness of the paint or the
transitions of the tube joints?... or are you implying that Bianchi
frames are soft and flex more than tires that usually absorb road
shock of bicycles (if they aren't FS MTB's). I feel that old black
magic coming on... "steel frames get soft with time etc".

Jobst Brandt


I just meant that when I tried out the Bianchi Eros and Bianchi Veloce, they
felt smoother to ride than the Klein, LeMond, and Cannondale bikes that I
also tried out. Of course, my old bike was a 1984 Schwinn, so practically
anything would have been quicker and more responsive....I think Bianchi has
good quality frames, the angles in their frames feel good when I ride them,
and they were reasonably light for the price. Are you always so acerbic?

Pat in TX

James Howe wrote in message ...

road bike to replace my two-year-old Trek 7300 Hybrid. Overall I've been
pleased with the 7300, but I find that I really miss the drop handlebars.

You could add Newk extensions (curve down like dropped bars,
don't relocate the controls - OK if you spend most of the time
"on the tops"). Or switch the stem, bars, and controls, keeping
in mind that most V-brakes need an adapter to work with STI levers
(different cable pull). Some manufacturers sell a "touring bike"
which is just their hybrid with dropped bars, STI levers, narrower
tires, and different crankset (30-42-52 instead of 22-32-42).

These are cheaper options. ymmv



tire I could put on them. They seem to come with 700x28C tires by default.

Most "road" bikes lack clearance for wider tires, fenders,
racks, panniers, etc. You might look for "touring" bikes. Or
CycloCross bikes, but these seem to have higher bottom brackets,
and cost more than a tourer.

Could I put 700x38c tires on any of these bikes?

www.sheldonbrown.com has a table of tire widths for rim widths.
The other limiting factor is clearance - wide tires may rub
the frame or brake arches. You can always deflate the tire to
squeeze it past the brake pads, then re-inflate it. Many touring
bikes use cantilever or v-brakes (see sheldonbrown's glossary)

,
which are closer to the $900 range, use Shimano Tiagra. The mid-level

See www.chainreactionbicycles.com article on test riding a
bike. You really can't judge a group (specifically shifters)
without riding it. I got severe hand / arm pain from RSX STI
levers, but have no such grief from 105's. Tiagra looks like
a nice 9-speed group, Sora limits your upgrade options (8 speed)
and has "mouse-ears" rather than a second lever inside the main
brake-shift lever. Some people prefer barcons, as used on the
Trek 520. ymmv.


Specialized Sequoia uses Shimano New 105 components and sells for $1200.

My 105's have two cnetral positions for the FD, to allow some
trimming when on the middle chainring. RSX didn't have that, don't
know whether Taigra does. You could read the SHimano blurbs for other
differences, which may contribute to durability, or function.

You may find Campagnolo ERGO at that price level as well
(e.g. the Marinoni Turismo with Campy Veloce costs C$1760, which
is less than your U$1500 limit).

Some touring bikes mix road and ATB compnents, e.g. 105 ST
levers, LX hubs and wide-range cassette, LX derailleur to cope
with the ATB cassette, etc.

hth

James Howe wrote in message ...
I'm interested in getting some opinions/recommendations on a new lower-end
road bike to replace my two-year-old Trek 7300 Hybrid. Overall I've been
pleased with the 7300, but I find that I really miss the drop handlebars.
My riding is mostly fitness and recreational and occurs mostly on paved
roads. However, I do have a need for a bike which can handle packed dirt
roads without suffering severe tire/wheel/frame damage. Typically I only
ride 50+ miles a week over flat to moderately hilly terrain. I'm also not
inclined to spend a fortune on a new bike. Ideally I would like to spend
less than $1000 and probably no more than $1500.

Fuji Touring, MSRP is $840
Bianchi Volpe MSRP is $850

These would appear to fit your requirements pretty well. Look for
a Cro-Moly framed bicycle, not an aluminum framed bicycle.

As to the widest tire, no problem with 38mm on the Fuji,
see the chart at: "http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html"

The Fuji comes with Ritchey Tom Slick, 700 x 30C and
Alex X-2100 rims. The rims have an inside diameter of
18.8mm, so you could technically go up to 44mm wide
tires, and in fact you can find bikes with 38mm tires
and these rims.

The Volpe has Mavic T-224 rims. Mavic doesn't have the
width on their web site, but they do list tire pressure
for 28mm-37mm tires, so probably 38mm would be okay.

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..
James Howe

These would appear to fit your requirements pretty well. Look for
a Cro-Moly framed bicycle, not an aluminum framed bicycle.


duck! run for cover!

Pat in TX

"Pat" wrote in message
...
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.
James Howe

These would appear to fit your requirements pretty well. Look for
a Cro-Moly framed bicycle, not an aluminum framed bicycle.

The original poster stated that he wanted a bike that was not strictly for
on-road riding and that could stand up to some abuse. I don't think anyone
would argue that aluminum is better than steel in terms of meeting these
requirements.