SPD (in)compatibility and ticking

Hi, apologies that these are two unrelated questions.

I've just started riding again after quite a long time away.
Previously I used SPD pedals, and I've still got shoes from the
early-mid 90s, which have SH-50 cleats on them. The new shoes and
pedals have SH-51 cleats whichs are similar but not the same - the nose
of the cleat is much more rounded than the old ones. The new pedals
(A520s) do not talk about being compatible with SH-50 cleats. Does
anyone know if old cleats will work in new pedals, or vice versa
whether new cleats will work with old pedals, as I have a bike from the
early 90s, with pedals which worked with SH-50s, which I want to revive.

By "work" I mean basically "won't damage the pedals and will stay
clipped in securely". Obviously I can always just buy new pedals for
the old bike if they won't work together.


A second, unrelated question: The bike I've bought to get fit again is
a second-hand single-speed thing (the intention being when I am fitter
I'll revive/buy a proper road bike and keep this for commuting). It's
fine, but when pedalling it "ticks", maybe 2-3 times a second
(obviously depending on cadence, but much more often than once per
rotation of the cranks). I can't feel anything corresponding to the
ticks, but my guess is still that it's likely something in the BB,
though not a seriously disintegrated bearing as I could always feel
roughness associated with them. Annoyingly it only happens under load
- I can't make it do it with the bike upside down just by turning the
cranks. Is there anything else which could make a single-speed (but
not fixed) bike tick like that under load (it's not any part of the
wheel touching anything)?

Thanks

--tim

On 5/30/2011 1:25 PM, Tim Bradshaw wrote:
Hi, apologies that these are two unrelated questions.

I've just started riding again after quite a long time away. Previously
I used SPD pedals, and I've still got shoes from the early-mid 90s,
which have SH-50 cleats on them. The new shoes and pedals have SH-51
cleats whichs are similar but not the same - the nose of the cleat is
much more rounded than the old ones. The new pedals (A520s) do not talk
about being compatible with SH-50 cleats. Does anyone know if old cleats
will work in new pedals, or vice versa whether new cleats will work with
old pedals, as I have a bike from the early 90s, with pedals which
worked with SH-50s, which I want to revive.

By "work" I mean basically "won't damage the pedals and will stay
clipped in securely". Obviously I can always just buy new pedals for the
old bike if they won't work together.

The SH-51 have some float where the SH-50 doesn't. Not sure if the
SH-50 cleat is recommended for the A520 but you should be able to just
change the cleat. Or do you think that the 51s won't mount on the old shoe?

On 5/30/2011 12:25 PM, Tim Bradshaw wrote:
Hi, apologies that these are two unrelated questions.

You must be new around here if you are apologizing for anything.

I've just started riding again after quite a long time away. Previously
I used SPD pedals, and I've still got shoes from the early-mid 90s,
which have SH-50 cleats on them. The new shoes and pedals have SH-51
cleats whichs are similar but not the same - the nose of the cleat is
much more rounded than the old ones. The new pedals (A520s) do not talk
about being compatible with SH-50 cleats. Does anyone know if old cleats
will work in new pedals, or vice versa whether new cleats will work with
old pedals, as I have a bike from the early 90s, with pedals which
worked with SH-50s, which I want to revive.

By "work" I mean basically "won't damage the pedals and will stay
clipped in securely". Obviously I can always just buy new pedals for the
old bike if they won't work together.

The bigger question would be will they release reliably? I would
experiment before riding.

A second, unrelated question: The bike I've bought to get fit again is a
second-hand single-speed thing (the intention being when I am fitter
I'll revive/buy a proper road bike and keep this for commuting). It's
fine, but when pedalling it "ticks", maybe 2-3 times a second (obviously
depending on cadence, but much more often than once per rotation of the
cranks). I can't feel anything corresponding to the ticks, but my guess
is still that it's likely something in the BB, though not a seriously
disintegrated bearing as I could always feel roughness associated with
them. Annoyingly it only happens under load - I can't make it do it with
the bike upside down just by turning the cranks. Is there anything else
which could make a single-speed (but not fixed) bike tick like that
under load (it's not any part of the wheel touching anything)?

Shoelaces hitting the cranks?

--
Tºm Shermªn - 42.435731,-83.985007
I am a vehicular cyclist.

On May 30, 11:35 am, Tºm Shermªn™ °_° ""twshermanREMOVE\"@THI
$southslope.net" wrote:
On 5/30/2011 12:25 PM, Tim Bradshaw wrote: Hi, apologies that these are two unrelated questions.

You must be new around here if you are apologizing for anything.

I've just started riding again after quite a long time away. Previously
I used SPD pedals, and I've still got shoes from the early-mid 90s,
which have SH-50 cleats on them. The new shoes and pedals have SH-51
cleats whichs are similar but not the same - the nose of the cleat is
much more rounded than the old ones. The new pedals (A520s) do not talk
about being compatible with SH-50 cleats. Does anyone know if old cleats
will work in new pedals, or vice versa whether new cleats will work with
old pedals, as I have a bike from the early 90s, with pedals which
worked with SH-50s, which I want to revive.

By "work" I mean basically "won't damage the pedals and will stay
clipped in securely". Obviously I can always just buy new pedals for the
old bike if they won't work together.

The bigger question would be will they release reliably? I would
experiment before riding.

A second, unrelated question: The bike I've bought to get fit again is a
second-hand single-speed thing (the intention being when I am fitter
I'll revive/buy a proper road bike and keep this for commuting). It's
fine, but when pedalling it "ticks", maybe 2-3 times a second (obviously
depending on cadence, but much more often than once per rotation of the
cranks). I can't feel anything corresponding to the ticks, but my guess
is still that it's likely something in the BB, though not a seriously
disintegrated bearing as I could always feel roughness associated with
them. Annoyingly it only happens under load - I can't make it do it with
the bike upside down just by turning the cranks. Is there anything else
which could make a single-speed (but not fixed) bike tick like that
under load (it's not any part of the wheel touching anything)?

Shoelaces hitting the cranks?


Probably not 2-3 times per second.

In my experience, ticking under load is often not so unrelated to
pedals as the OP suggests, but 2-3 times per second? Could that be
chain suck? Put it on the stand (or upside down) and simulate load by
holding tension on the rear wheel as you turn the crank. Does the
chain come smoothly off the chainring and rear sprocket? Or does it
kind of cling to the sprocket and then suddenly jump off each tooth.

Op 30-5-2011 19:25, Tim Bradshaw schreef:
Hi, apologies that these are two unrelated questions.

I've just started riding again after quite a long time away. Previously
I used SPD pedals, and I've still got shoes from the early-mid 90s,
which have SH-50 cleats on them. The new shoes and pedals have SH-51
cleats whichs are similar but not the same - the nose of the cleat is
much more rounded than the old ones. The new pedals (A520s) do not talk
about being compatible with SH-50 cleats. Does anyone know if old cleats
will work in new pedals, or vice versa whether new cleats will work with
old pedals, as I have a bike from the early 90s, with pedals which
worked with SH-50s, which I want to revive.

By "work" I mean basically "won't damage the pedals and will stay
clipped in securely". Obviously I can always just buy new pedals for the
old bike if they won't work together.


A second, unrelated question: The bike I've bought to get fit again is a
second-hand single-speed thing (the intention being when I am fitter
I'll revive/buy a proper road bike and keep this for commuting). It's
fine, but when pedalling it "ticks", maybe 2-3 times a second (obviously
depending on cadence, but much more often than once per rotation of the
cranks). I can't feel anything corresponding to the ticks, but my guess
is still that it's likely something in the BB, though not a seriously
disintegrated bearing as I could always feel roughness associated with
them. Annoyingly it only happens under load - I can't make it do it with
the bike upside down just by turning the cranks. Is there anything else
which could make a single-speed (but not fixed) bike tick like that
under load (it's not any part of the wheel touching anything)?

Thanks

--tim



Try tightening your quick release or bolts of you rear wheel and/or
greas rear dropouts.

Lou

Op 30-5-2011 19:25, Tim Bradshaw schreef:
Hi, apologies that these are two unrelated questions.

I've just started riding again after quite a long time away. Previously
I used SPD pedals, and I've still got shoes from the early-mid 90s,
which have SH-50 cleats on them. The new shoes and pedals have SH-51
cleats whichs are similar but not the same - the nose of the cleat is
much more rounded than the old ones. The new pedals (A520s) do not talk
about being compatible with SH-50 cleats. Does anyone know if old cleats
will work in new pedals, or vice versa whether new cleats will work with
old pedals, as I have a bike from the early 90s, with pedals which
worked with SH-50s, which I want to revive.

By "work" I mean basically "won't damage the pedals and will stay
clipped in securely". Obviously I can always just buy new pedals for the
old bike if they won't work together.


A second, unrelated question: The bike I've bought to get fit again is a
second-hand single-speed thing (the intention being when I am fitter
I'll revive/buy a proper road bike and keep this for commuting). It's
fine, but when pedalling it "ticks", maybe 2-3 times a second (obviously
depending on cadence, but much more often than once per rotation of the
cranks). I can't feel anything corresponding to the ticks, but my guess
is still that it's likely something in the BB, though not a seriously
disintegrated bearing as I could always feel roughness associated with
them. Annoyingly it only happens under load - I can't make it do it with
the bike upside down just by turning the cranks. Is there anything else
which could make a single-speed (but not fixed) bike tick like that
under load (it's not any part of the wheel touching anything)?

Thanks

--tim

On May 30, 12:53*pm, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op 30-5-2011 19:25, Tim Bradshaw schreef:





Hi, apologies that these are two unrelated questions.

I've just started riding again after quite a long time away. Previously
I used SPD pedals, and I've still got shoes from the early-mid 90s,
which have SH-50 cleats on them. The new shoes and pedals have SH-51
cleats whichs are similar but not the same - the nose of the cleat is
much more rounded than the old ones. The new pedals (A520s) do not talk
about being compatible with SH-50 cleats. Does anyone know if old cleats
will work in new pedals, or vice versa whether new cleats will work with
old pedals, as I have a bike from the early 90s, with pedals which
worked with SH-50s, which I want to revive.

By "work" I mean basically "won't damage the pedals and will stay
clipped in securely". Obviously I can always just buy new pedals for the
old bike if they won't work together.

A second, unrelated question: The bike I've bought to get fit again is a
second-hand single-speed thing (the intention being when I am fitter
I'll revive/buy a proper road bike and keep this for commuting). It's
fine, but when pedalling it "ticks", maybe 2-3 times a second (obviously
depending on cadence, but much more often than once per rotation of the
cranks). I can't feel anything corresponding to the ticks, but my guess
is still that it's likely something in the BB, though not a seriously
disintegrated bearing as I could always feel roughness associated with
them. Annoyingly it only happens under load - I can't make it do it with
the bike upside down just by turning the cranks. Is there anything else
which could make a single-speed (but not fixed) bike tick like that
under load (it's not any part of the wheel touching anything)?

Thanks

--tim

Try tightening your quick release or bolts of you rear wheel and/or
greas rear dropouts.

A great piece of advice -- that interface frequently mimics the sound
of a bad BB. It makes me wonder what to do for a longer term fix.

-- Jay Beattie.

On 2011-05-30 18:48:31 +0100, Duane Hebert said:

The SH-51 have some float where the SH-50 doesn't. Not sure if the
SH-50 cleat is recommended for the A520 but you should be able to just
change the cleat. Or do you think that the 51s won't mount on the old
shoe?

I hadn't really thought what I was worried about, but in fact I'm
worried whether the SH-51s will work with old pedals, in case I can no
longer get SH-50s (it looks like I can't).

On 2011-05-30 20:30:09 +0100, Dan O said:

Shoelaces hitting the cranks?


Probably not 2-3 times per second.

No, it's not laces - followin long-ago bad experiences I don't wear
shoes with laces while cycling.

And in fact it's more than 2-3 per second I think, maybe 4-5.


In my experience, ticking under load is often not so unrelated to
pedals as the OP suggests, but 2-3 times per second? Could that be
chain suck? Put it on the stand (or upside down) and simulate load by
holding tension on the rear wheel as you turn the crank. Does the
chain come smoothly off the chainring and rear sprocket? Or does it
kind of cling to the sprocket and then suddenly jump off each tooth.

Chain suck is plausible. I think I need to work out a way to make it
happen in a controlled way as you suggest. Bikes ares such resonant
structures it's impossible to tell where it's coming from by just
listening while riding...

On Jun 1, 1:25*am, Tim Bradshaw wrote:
On 2011-05-30 20:30:09 +0100, Dan O said:

Shoelaces hitting the cranks?

Probably not 2-3 times per second.

No, it's not laces - followin long-ago bad experiences I don't wear
shoes with laces while cycling.

And in fact it's more than 2-3 per second I think, maybe 4-5.



In my experience, ticking under load is often not so unrelated to
pedals as the OP suggests, but 2-3 times per second? *Could that be
chain suck? *Put it on the stand (or upside down) and simulate load by
holding tension on the rear wheel as you turn the crank. *Does the
chain come smoothly off the chainring and rear sprocket? *Or does it
kind of cling to the sprocket and then suddenly jump off each tooth.

Chain suck is plausible. *I think I need to work out a way to make it
happen in a controlled way as you suggest. Bikes ares such resonant
structures it's impossible to tell where it's coming from by just
listening while riding...

Leonard Zinn's Road & Mtb. bike books have / had a chart that answered
your questions about compaitbility of SPD clips & pedals. A very
usefull
table.
B est wishes, JD