Repairing a transverse crack in a Columbus SL toptube?

On Jan 24, 2:54*pm, David Scheidt wrote:
James wrote:

:On 25/01/12 06:22, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

: $275.00 to replace a single tube on a steel frame plus the cost of
: painting it versus about $250.00 or so for a mail order aluminium
: frame? I believe I'm beginning to see why aluminium frames are so
: popular. Steel might be repairable but, in my opinion anyway, it's an
: expensive proposition to do so.
:
: I guess I'll just wait and get the top tube replaced when I have the
: funds for it plus the ability to arrange rides to and from the
: shopdoing the work. That shop's about 40 miles from me each way.
:
: Thanks again and cheers

:Where do you find a $250 Al frame?

That's an expensive aluminum frame.

--
sig 44

are problems with'add folowup' surfacing ? not adding or deleting is a
waste of electrons.
does blueing the text then clicking 'add followup' improve ?

On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:20:55 -0800 (PST), landotter
wrote:

On Jan 24, 11:38*am, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op 24-1-2012 12:39, Sir Ridesalot schreef:









Hi.

I have a mid-1980's vintage Miele road bike with Columbus SL tubing.
The toptube has two horizontal openings in it for theentry and exit of
the internal rear brake cable housing. Unfortunately the toptube
hasdeveloped a crack that runs transversely from the openng at the
front end of the forward cable opening and goes almost all the way
around the top tube.

To replqce that toptube with another Columbus SL one would cost about
$275.00 at the only shop around here that's willing to repalce that
tube.

I have a friend who has a MIG welder. He says he can fill and smooth
that crack and the bike would be rideable again. He sayshe'd fill
those two holes for the cable housing and that I could runthe cable
along the top of the toptube. He *took an indepth bicycle mechanic
repair course and is cetified.

I'd far prefer having the cable routed inside the frame so that I
don't have to be bothered with cable clamps when I have to carry the
bike.

In the opinion of the experts here who do or heve had such work done:

Will filling this crack using a MIG welder give a frame that's safe to
ride?

Can this be done without having to fill the holes where the rear brake
cable housing enters and exits?

Thanks and cheers

I'm shocked! A steel frame that breaks? WTF ;-) Fortunately you can ride
to the first blacksmith in the middle of nowhere. He can repair your
frame so I'm told again and again.
Just kidding. If the frame has emotional value replace the whole tube
otherwise consider a cheap aluminum replacement. My 2 ct.

Lou

Indeed. If you want something for riding. Unlike steel frames of the
80s, most cheap alu frames are well made and straight, if a little
utilitarian. If the OP loves teh bike, fix it properly. I wouldn't
bother.

Boy do I disagree. At the start of 2010 I sent my 1991 Bob Jackson
531 Pro bike for frame repair (freeing a stuck stem, adding a front
derailleur boss, and respacing the rear triangle from 126mm to 130mm)
for about $250 plus shipping. Then I had the who frame stripped and
repainted, including replacing all the Bob Jackson Reynold 531 frame
decals, for a painting total of $650. That was about $900 to repair
and refinish the frame, and in my opinion it was worth every penny.
That frame has more miles on it than my car and is now over 20 years
old and still in fine condition.

You can keep your cheap aluminum frames. They creak and flex to much
for my taste; I'll take steel every day of the week!

Dark Helmet wrote:

You can keep your cheap aluminum frames. *They creak and flex to much
for my taste; I'll take steel every day of the week!

Flex?

I do not think this word means what you think it means.

Chalo

landotter wrote:

Unlike steel frames of the
80s, most cheap alu frames are well made and straight, if a little
utilitarian. If the OP loves teh bike, fix it properly. I wouldn't
bother.

I think Japanese lugged steel frames of the mid-'80s (immediately pre-
index shifting) were about as good as mass market steel frames ever
got.

'70s steel frames were often crude, crooked, or poorly finished, or
sometimes all three. But once the Japanese got their game on quality-
wise, they began to show everyone else in the world how it was done.
Mid-80s Nishikis, Bridgestones, Panasonics, Univegas, Miyatas,
Maruishis, and Japanese-made Schwinns and Specializeds are unsurpassed
in terms of level of craftsmanship per cost.

Gimmicky bull**** like internal cable routing was more characteristic
of overvalued European-made fashion bikes, like the stuff that's being
made from plastic these days. Of course these things did not work out
as well as interchangeable Japanese frames with proven conservative
design and consistent workmanship.

Chalo

On 25 jan, 03:57, Dark Helmet wrote:
On Tue, 24 Jan 2012 14:20:55 -0800 (PST), landotter





wrote:
On Jan 24, 11:38*am, Lou Holtman wrote:
Op 24-1-2012 12:39, Sir Ridesalot schreef:

Hi.

I have a mid-1980's vintage Miele road bike with Columbus SL tubing.
The toptube has two horizontal openings in it for theentry and exit of
the internal rear brake cable housing. Unfortunately the toptube
hasdeveloped a crack that runs transversely from the openng at the
front end of the forward cable opening and goes almost all the way
around the top tube.

To replqce that toptube with another Columbus SL one would cost about
$275.00 at the only shop around here that's willing to repalce that
tube.

I have a friend who has a MIG welder. He says he can fill and smooth
that crack and the bike would be rideable again. He sayshe'd fill
those two holes for the cable housing and that I could runthe cable
along the top of the toptube. He *took an indepth bicycle mechanic
repair course and is cetified.

I'd far prefer having the cable routed inside the frame so that I
don't have to be bothered with cable clamps when I have to carry the
bike.

In the opinion of the experts here who do or heve had such work done:

Will filling this crack using a MIG welder give a frame that's safe to
ride?

Can this be done without having to fill the holes where the rear brake
cable housing enters and exits?

Thanks and cheers

I'm shocked! A steel frame that breaks? WTF ;-) Fortunately you can ride
to the first blacksmith in the middle of nowhere. He can repair your
frame so I'm told again and again.
Just kidding. If the frame has emotional value replace the whole tube
otherwise consider a cheap aluminum replacement. My 2 ct.

Lou

Indeed. If you want something for riding. Unlike steel frames of the
80s, most cheap alu frames are well made and straight, if a little
utilitarian. If the OP loves teh bike, fix it properly. I wouldn't
bother.

Boy do I disagree. *At the start of 2010 I sent my 1991 Bob Jackson
531 Pro bike for frame repair (freeing a stuck stem, adding a front
derailleur boss, and respacing the rear triangle from 126mm to 130mm)
for about $250 plus shipping. *Then I had the who frame stripped and
repainted, including replacing all the Bob Jackson Reynold 531 frame
decals, for a painting total of $650. *That was about $900 to repair
and refinish the frame, and in my opinion it was worth every penny.
That frame has more miles on it than my car and is now over 20 years
old and still in fine condition.

You can keep your cheap aluminum frames. *They creak and flex to much
for my taste; I'll take steel every day of the week!- Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht niet weergeven -

- Tekst uit oorspronkelijk bericht weergeven -

It is hard/impossible to rationalize spending 900 dollar on a 20 year
old steel frame. For 900 dollar you can get the best aluminum frame
available today. Besides emotional value better in every other aspect
than a steel frame with pretty common Reynolds 531 tubing.

Lou

On 25-1-2012 13:15, Lou Holtman wrote:


It is hard/impossible to rationalize spending 900 dollar on a 20 year
old steel frame.

You should get out more instead of posting a blanket statement like
this, as there are frames about where this would make sense. Not that
the OP's frame qualifies


--
/Marten

info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

On 25 jan, 13:25, m-gineering wrote:
On 25-1-2012 13:15, Lou Holtman wrote:



It is hard/impossible to rationalize spending 900 dollar on a 20 year
old steel frame.

You should get out more instead of posting a blanket statement like
this, as there are frames about where this would make sense. Not that
the OP's frame qualifies

--
/Marten

info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

I'm curious. Mind that I just want to ride bike. If it is a custom
frame than repairing a frame makes sense btw.

Lou

On Jan 25, 12:50*pm, Lou Holtman wrote:
On 25 jan, 13:25, m-gineering wrote:

On 25-1-2012 13:15, Lou Holtman wrote:

It is hard/impossible to rationalize spending 900 dollar on a 20 year
old steel frame.

You should get out more instead of posting a blanket statement like
this, as there are frames about where this would make sense. Not that
the OP's frame qualifies

--
/Marten

info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

I'm curious. Mind that I just want to ride bike. If it is a custom
frame than repairing a frame makes sense btw.

Lou

Not necessarily. I only have a custom frame because there was no
other way to get a frame with a good top tube length at that time on
the market. I have no particular emotional attatchment to the
overpriced frame as it is(was) a tool for racing so there was no
detail work or fancy paint job, although i did succumb to a bit of
chrome at the time, I did not have it re-instated at repair. Price of
repair is important and if repair costs are above half the frame value
(as I see it at that moment) after repair then serious consideration
would be made into buying a complete frame or bicycle. There's
something I do know, I doubt I'd be paying as much for a new bike
today as I did 22 years ago, the need for such a reliable tool is not
required.

On Jan 24, 2:54*pm, David Scheidt wrote:
James wrote:

:On 25/01/12 06:22, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

: $275.00 to replace a single tube on a steel frame plus the cost of
: painting it versus about $250.00 or so for a mail order aluminium
: frame? I believe I'm beginning to see why aluminium frames are so
: popular. Steel might be repairable but, in my opinion anyway, it's an
: expensive proposition to do so.
:
: I guess I'll just wait and get the top tube replaced when I have the
: funds for it plus the ability to arrange rides to and from the
: shopdoing the work. That shop's about 40 miles from me each way.
:
: Thanks again and cheers

:Where do you find a $250 Al frame?

That's an expensive aluminum frame.

--
sig 44

you can find alu frames on ebay, brand new for about 100-150. nashbar
too. You can buy full carbon frames for about 250 to 300 on ebay. They
are made in china or taiwan, like every single carbon frame out in the
market today.

If the carbon frame is then sent to italy where they put the
components, they can say that the bike was made in italy and charge
you 5000.

there is a thread in the forum at roadbikesreviews.com about carbon
frames made in china. people rave about them and the thread has over
1000 posts.

I have a friend that owns a bike shop and orders his frames from a
factory in china and has them sprayed at the factory. He can order
custom painting for u at no additional charge. He pays about 200 per
frame and sells them for about 700-800. they are a lot cheaper than
buying a pinarello, cerebelo, etc for about 5000 made in the same
factory. in fact, if you contact one of the factories, they will send
you an exact copy of a pinarello for about the 500. if you go to the
roadbikereviews forum you can get contact information for one of the
chines factories. here is one example. you contact them and they'll
make whatever you want, and they guarantee what they sell.

bikesdirect.com out of texas and neuvation cycles also from texas will
sell you a carbon frame for little over 500. both have great
reputations.

i have a custom ti frame made in china that I paid about 600 for.
nowadays, they go for about 400. they built it exactly the way i
wanted it. it has over 15000 miles and still looks new. mark hickey
owner of habanero in florida buys his frames from the exact same
factory and sells them for about 800 or he can build you acustom ti
frame for about 1100. he has an amazing reputation and an incredible
following.

im not saying that you should buy alu or carbon. i love steel for its
awesome feel, looks and durability. you can also get a lugged steel
bike from taiwan that looks awesome for very little. But nowadays,
everything is mass made in the far east for pennies.

On Jan 24, 10:25*pm, Chalo wrote:
landotter wrote:

Unlike steel frames of the
80s, most cheap alu frames are well made and straight, if a little
utilitarian. If the OP loves teh bike, fix it properly. I wouldn't
bother.

I think Japanese lugged steel frames of the mid-'80s (immediately pre-
index shifting) were about as good as mass market steel frames ever
got.

'70s steel frames were often crude, crooked, or poorly finished, or
sometimes all three. *But once the Japanese got their game on quality-
wise, they began to show everyone else in the world how it was done.
Mid-80s Nishikis, Bridgestones, Panasonics, Univegas, Miyatas,
Maruishis, and Japanese-made Schwinns and Specializeds are unsurpassed
in terms of level of craftsmanship per cost.

Gimmicky bull**** like internal cable routing was more characteristic
of overvalued European-made fashion bikes, like the stuff that's being
made from plastic these days. *Of course these things did not work out
as well as interchangeable Japanese frames with proven conservative
design and consistent workmanship.

Chalo

Having owned French and Japanese bikes of the era, that's fair enough.
A mid market Japanese frame from the 80s that fits is well worth
having aligned and powdercoated, provided you got a good deal on it,
it fits, and you enjoy the smaller tube diameter aesthetic.

At any rate, Taiwanese and Chinese factories churn out cheap and
cheerful frames in steel and aluminum which are great if you fit a
standard size and just want something straight to bolt parts onto and
ride.