#11
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I took a close look at a department store Schwinn a month ago,
http://search.bikelist.org/query.asp...MsgDate%5Ba%5D Specifically, the $108 schwinn hybrid at Target. Unlike earlier department store bikes that had obvious manufacturing compromises (e.g. cheap soft steel brakes that bent every time they were used, steel rims, lead-pipe frames, suicide extension levers), modern dept. store bikes have closed a tremendous gap with bike shop bikes. Although I don't own one, these bikes are probably not fun or practical to work on or tune. They are designed to be manufactured cheaply, used until the parts fail or go out of the adjustment, and then thrown away. Don't expect to get it fixed cheaply at a normal bike shop. Work on it yourself, if at all. Here is the best summary about "where are the bodies buried" on the cheaper department store bikes of today : http://search.bikelist.org/getmsg.as...10411.2094.eml With the US$ trading for 8 chinese yuan, and the average chinese worker in the countryside earning $0.65 per hour, you may not see a bike of this quality sold this cheaply another time for the rest of your life. If you buy, purchase the best model available, with all-aluminum parts. - Don Gillies San Diego, CA |
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#12
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On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 19:34:03 -0600, Tom Sherman
wrote: Mike Jacoubowsky/Chain Reaction Bicycles wrote: Bandwith is cheap, sorry. Look for a decent used bike. You could probably find one for nearly free at a garage sale or thrift shop that would be far better than the Huffy or Schwinn from a department store. If you have the skills to properly assemble a bike, you can probably easily deal with a used bike, and recognize a real gem that's there for the taking. I know someone who purchased a lugged steel frame Trek with near perfect paint for $10 at a yard sale. A few months ago, I grabbed a group of five bikes for the total sum of about $60 at the city auction; the lot included a Miyata Elevation 1000 that needed just a chain and cassette replaced due to wear. Of the other four, two were absolute scrap. Those two were a mid-60s drop-frame Schwinn tourer with tires rotted off, and a badly ethno-engineered Huffy with a 24" rear wheel and a tireless EA3 front wheel on a 559-wheel frame with a complete lack of brakes, shifters and seat. The remaining two were reasonably servicable department-store-level bikes in almost immediately useful condition; a Pacific mtb with a missing dust guard on one front wheel bearing, and a Roadmaster Mt Fury (alas, in the 24" size) with the most creatively obliterated set of brake calipers I have ever seen. The front caliper's arms were devoid of pads and had been twisted in between the fork legs (I should mention that the fork had been turned around backwards) as though the brakes had been suddenly applied while the bike was being towed at high speeds with an overload aboard. Given the presence of a trick-bike footpeg on the rear axle, that may be exactly what was being done. There was also an impressive amount of chain slap damage to the chainstay paint. Despite the apparent abuse, however, with the substitution of some less twisted calipers from Le Carton Du Junque, it became a useful bike which presently awaits a suitable rider. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts. |
#13
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On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 19:42:41 -0500, PSB wrote:
Ron Hardin wrote: I generally get 6 years before that happens, and the current one looks to be going strong for more years yet. I was hoping you would ring in Ron. The thing about the Huffy I was looking at has knobby tires. The Schwinn didn't have knobbies. What do you recommend Ron, knobbies or slicks? For commuting? Slicks! Your wrists, elbows and shoulders will thank you for the reduced vibration. Note, however, that a pair of slicks for a 26" bike can be had for about $15 (maybe less) at Mall-Wart, and they're not hard to install on whatever you buy. A slick-tired Mt Fury could be concocted for well under $100, even after sales tax. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts. |
#14
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"PSB" wrote in message ... So which would you recommend? Murray or C. Itoh. |
#15
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Learning toward one or the other for buying a new dept store bicycle. I
know what to look for when it comes to assembling them. The bike is going to be used as a commuter. The Huffy's are about 30 dollars cheaper and both have Shamino gears. Just curious if I should spend the 30 bucks more for a Schwinn or not. I always thought Schwinns were overpriced personally. If you are going to reply that I should buy from an LBS, save your bandwidth. So which would you recommend? |
#16
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So which would you recommend?
Murray or C. Itoh. What's wrong with American Flyer? --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles www.ChainReactionBicycles.com |
#17
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On Tue, 28 Dec 2004 23:46:35 -0500, "Joe Haggadah"
wrote: "PSB" wrote in message ... So which would you recommend? Murray or C. Itoh. Itoh printers are easier to find than Itoh bikes in the US...and when was the last time you saw a Murray bike available new? ISTR that Murray sold off its bike division to one of the borgs a while back. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts. |
#18
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On Wed, 29 Dec 2004 08:00:29 GMT, "Mike Jacoubowsky"
wrote: So which would you recommend? Murray or C. Itoh. What's wrong with American Flyer? If you can get the rust off, and if the rims aren't full of termites, nothing. But a JC Higgins is probably a better value. -- Typoes are a feature, not a bug. Some gardening required to reply via email. Words processed in a facility that contains nuts. |
#19
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I basically agree with this article.
If you want cheap - then buy the cheapest. If you want something suitable for commuting then start looking at more than the two cheap bicycles you indicate. When i go to garage and other sales i see so many cheap bikes - and then when i ask why they did not use the bikes the folks say the bike did not fit, it did not work properly, it did not... Cheap bikes might be OK for a spin around the block but that is IT!! Get a used bike with good components. Who cares if it does not have the latest in gadgetry?? I bought a 20 year old Peugeot at a garage sale and with several adjustments to the seat and front bars it will be great for commuting. It would be better to have fenders on it, but for $20 I guess I can get fenders and still be farther ahead than buying a new bike similar to what you are looking at. Think outside the box and look at a quality used bike that will be much more suitable for your needs as compared to the 2 new ones you are enamored with... wrote: Neither. As commuters, they would probably do OK. But they are cheap junk, and possibly like throwing money away. If you search in this newsgroup for "Carl Fogel" "Roadmaster" and "Fury", you will find the saga of a cheap dept. store bike. You /should/ buy from your LBS. But not a new bike. A used one. A decent, well-maintained, used bike can cost only a bit more than a new dept. store bike-shaped toy, and is likely to have better components. This means that you might get more life out of your used bike than you would out of a new bike-shaped toy from some *Mart. Locally, the LBSs have quite a bit of used inventory that they are willing to make deals on because in our corner of North America, it's winter, and bikes don't sell well here in the winter. Good luck. HAND, E.P. |
#20
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: : And isn't there something noble about giving a bike like that a new lease on : life? But I'm beginning to suspect this is a troll, given the recent remark : from the original poster regarding knobby vs slick tires for a "commute" : bike. : : --Mike Jacoubowsky : I agree: it's a troll. He wanted to start a flame war, that's all. Pat in TX |
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