Strapless Mini-Clips - Help or Hindrance?

"Pete Biggs" writes:

www.sjscycles.com/store/vIndex.htm?item8563.htm -- I got some
for my old mum's bike. Or should I say: my mum's old bike? ;-) Very
non-slip, good size & shape, not heavy. Only catch is the bearings:
crude and rough as old boots, from new :-( They're Okay-enough
(though never sliky smooth) if readjusted and regreased, though.
Your local bike shop, or me, could do this for you if you didn't
have the necessary tools/knowledge.

I have a pair of Union SP 807, which I believe are the same pedals
(URL:http://fahrradversand.de/bikes/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=5246&language=en).
The bearings in one of them are as rough as old boots---the other one
is only as rough as new boots (which, as you say, is probably as good
as it gets). I haven't taken a vernier calliper to them, but the cone
appears to be about 9/16" and the lock nut about 7/16". Where would I
get the tools for servicing the bearings on this type of pedal?

--
Mark

"Pete Biggs" wrote in message ...

* Perhaps double-sided SPD's with a large cage around the SPD mechanism to
act as a platform.


Wellgo make a clipless adaptor that you can retro-fit to ordinary
cage-type MTB pedals (see the Jim Walker catalogue if your LBS keeps
copies), so that could be another solution. Don't know if they're any
good in practice, though.

David E. Belcher

Mark Williams wrote:
I have a pair of Union SP 807, which I believe are the same pedals

(URL:http://fahrradversand.de/bikes/catal...p?products_id=
5246&language=en).
The bearings in one of them are as rough as old boots---the other one
is only as rough as new boots (which, as you say, is probably as good
as it gets). I haven't taken a vernier calliper to them, but the cone
appears to be about 9/16" and the lock nut about 7/16". Where would I
get the tools for servicing the bearings on this type of pedal?

I held the axle in a vice and used an ordinary 12mm socket for the
locknut, and a crank puller's* 14mm socket to remove the cone to clean and
grease everything. I simply used a screwdriver to turn the cone for the
final adjustment. Tricky as you have to allow for slipping when the
locknut is done up, but I got it just right after a few attempts. You
might want to leave a hint of play to minimise drag, although I'm not sure
that's good in terms of long-term durability.

Very satisfying to turn absolutely crap bearings into quite naff bearings
:-)

Anyone know what size balls?

* Dyason's: http://tinyurl.com/39s6u

~PB

"Pete Biggs" writes:

[Union SP 807 bearings]

I held the axle in a vice and used an ordinary 12mm socket for the
locknut, and a crank puller's* 14mm socket to remove the cone to
clean and grease everything.

The cone turned out to be 15mm on mine. It was the `putting back
together without making worse' part that was bothering me more.

I simply used a screwdriver to turn the cone for the final
adjustment.

I had hoped someone would say something along the lines of `go into a
Flange shop and buy a Type 3 Widget' to get something along the lines
of a nested socket tool that allow the cone to be held firmly while
tightening the lock nut, but your screwdriver tip did a good job (much
better than I'd feared). Many thanks.

Very satisfying to turn absolutely crap bearings into quite naff
bearings :-)

Indeed :-). I've got mine all the way to `slightly rubbish'!

Anyone know what size balls?

11 * 5/32" at each end.

--
Mark