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Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 5th 20, 02:40 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
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Posts: 5,870
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure.

The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. I had to bend that bracket in the vice to make it closer to 90 degrees and then shortened up my FD cable just to make sure all the housings weren't whacking the light. I'm going to check the crank tomorrow since it was making a bunch of noise when I last commuted to work and throw on the winter tires. I struggled around today on a short ride and figure I'll be ready to go back to commuting on Monday. Slowly and painfully. I need to start riding so people in the elevator stop asking me why I'm not riding. I get concern from people who I basically don't even know except that I ride the elevator with them.

-- Jay Beattie.
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  #2  
Old January 5th 20, 09:36 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andre Jute[_2_]
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Posts: 10,422
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote:
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure.

The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. I had to bend that bracket in the vice to make it closer to 90 degrees and then shortened up my FD cable just to make sure all the housings weren't whacking the light. I'm going to check the crank tomorrow since it was making a bunch of noise when I last commuted to work and throw on the winter tires. I struggled around today on a short ride and figure I'll be ready to go back to commuting on Monday. Slowly and painfully. I need to start riding so people in the elevator stop asking me why I'm not riding. I get concern from people who I basically don't even know except that I ride the elevator with them.

-- Jay Beattie.


"Luxos B dyno mood light"????

It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos?

Andre Jute
Reformed hypester
  #3  
Old January 5th 20, 01:46 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sepp Ruf
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Posts: 454
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

Andre Jute wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote:
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement
frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded
hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the
front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar
mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little
research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident
a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I
drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like
aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear
bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and
there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a
failure.

The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole
lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug
it around as a backup.


"Luxos B dyno mood light"????

It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good
being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos?


The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated, cold
white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood light
looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien" ['zay rien]
-- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore.

https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg
  #4  
Old January 5th 20, 05:08 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
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Posts: 5,870
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 4:46:06 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote:
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement
frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded
hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the
front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar
mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little
research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident
a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I
drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like
aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear
bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and
there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a
failure.

The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole
lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug
it around as a backup.


"Luxos B dyno mood light"????

It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good
being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos?


The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated, cold
white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood light
looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien" ['zay rien]
-- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore.

https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg


Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800 lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest setting on my L&M Urban 800 which requires charging but doesn't require a dyno hub, wiring and a separate light. There is a good reason why dyno lights have not captured the market. I've always suspected my hub output was low, too, but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project.

-- Jay Beattie.
  #5  
Old January 5th 20, 06:28 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
[email protected]
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Posts: 824
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 2:40:13 AM UTC+1, jbeattie wrote:
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a failure.

The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug it around as a backup. I had to bend that bracket in the vice to make it closer to 90 degrees and then shortened up my FD cable just to make sure all the housings weren't whacking the light. I'm going to check the crank tomorrow since it was making a bunch of noise when I last commuted to work and throw on the winter tires. I struggled around today on a short ride and figure I'll be ready to go back to commuting on Monday. Slowly and painfully. I need to start riding so people in the elevator stop asking me why I'm not riding. I get concern from people who I basically don't even know except that I ride the elevator with them.

-- Jay Beattie.


Just wear your cycling clothes driving to work.

Lou
  #6  
Old January 5th 20, 08:50 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

On 1/5/2020 7:46 AM, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote:
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement
frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice threaded
hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no hole in the
front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going to get a bar
mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after doing a little
research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from my little accident
a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is really painful), I
drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm. The fork crown is like
aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled and tapped it for the rear
bolt (no insert), so I did the same for the front. Works great, and
there is so much material that I don't have any concern about a
failure.

The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a whole
lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I figured I'd lug
it around as a backup.


"Luxos B dyno mood light"????

It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the good
being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos?


The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated, cold
white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood light
looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien" ['zay rien]
-- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore.

https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg


A problem with beam shots is the apparent brightness is heavily
influenced by camera settings - and I suppose with smart phones being
used as cameras, the settings are probably hidden. So ISTM that a well
executed beam shot can show something about beam shape and light
distribution; but it doesn't necessarily show how well the headlamp
illuminates the road.

We're in an era of lumen wars. If someone posts a video of a bright
that's infinitely bright, then contrasts it with one that's only half of
infinity in brightness, that second one will look dim. Practically (or
mathematically) that does _not_ prove it's insufficient.

I'm not sure what the solution is. I don't have much hope for an
industry enforced standard for headlight beam shots. Perhaps the best we
can expect is to hope a website will include a beam shot of a headlight
you're familiar with, and see how others look relative to it at
(hopefully) the same camera settings.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #7  
Old January 5th 20, 09:02 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
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Posts: 10,538
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

On 1/5/2020 11:08 AM, jbeattie wrote:

Andre Jute wrote:
what's wrong with the Luxos?



Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800 lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest setting on my L&M Urban 800...


Yep, lumen wars. And to continue the logic, the Urban 800 is dim at
least compared to the Urban 1000; which is really dim compared to the
Suburban 2500... and on and on.

A motorcycle's low beam headlamp is maybe 750 lumens and is usually fine
for 55 mph. It seems really weird to say you need to match that with a
bike headlight.

And we've talked about wet roads before; but last night, I was driving
on a dark, newly paved and relatively empty four-lane state highway in
the rain. For obvious optical reasons, I couldn't see my headlight beams
on the wet road. If my headlights were ten times brighter, I still
couldn't have seen them - but they sure would have been effective at
blinding oncoming motorists.

I've always suspected my hub output was low, too, but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project.


Do you own a multimeter? Seriously! We should be able to measure the
hub's output.

Also, I've got an almost unused Oculus headlight. On high, it is
literally brighter than the sun. I'd be happy to trade for a Luxos.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #8  
Old January 5th 20, 09:28 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sepp Ruf
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 454
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 4:46:06 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote:
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement
frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice
threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no
hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going
to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after
doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from
my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is
really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm.
The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled
and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for
the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't
have any concern about a failure.

The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a
whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I
figured I'd lug it around as a backup.


"Luxos B dyno mood light"????

It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the
good being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos?


The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated,
cold white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood
light looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien"
['zay rien] -- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore.

https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg


Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800
lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest
setting on my L&M Urban 800 which requires charging but doesn't require a
dyno hub, wiring and a separate light. There is a good reason why dyno
lights have not captured the market.


We could again argue about which of reasons are valid, lame, technology or
culture specific, but the market shares are what they are.

I've always suspected my hub output was low, too,


Unlikely unless THEY put it on a rack in the way of the occasional ufo's hot
magnetic beam exhaust. Hub power failures tend not to be gradual ones,
unlike various effects of corrosion, current leakage, or led damage.

but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't
feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project.


Do Yourself In? Forget about Frank's multimeter then, you might poke your
lawyer hands. Does your Specialized son still know how to feed a light
bulb? You could have him test some clear (12..14V) automotive .4 or .5 amps
bulb with the bike stationary and giving the SP wheel a good spin. If the
bulb lights up reasonably bright, the generator is fine.
  #9  
Old January 5th 20, 11:32 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 12:28:21 PM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 4:46:06 AM UTC-8, Sepp Ruf wrote:
Andre Jute wrote:
On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 1:40:13 AM UTC, jbeattie wrote:
After breaking my old Cannondale Disc CX bike, I got a replacement
frame CAADX with a CF fork and aluminum steerer -- with a nice
threaded hole in the back of the crown for a fender bolt but no
hole in the front for my Luxos B dyno mood light. So, I was going
to get a bar mount, but I like the light on the crown, so after
doing a little research and while hallucinating on pain meds (from
my little accident a week ago that netted a rib fracture which is
really painful), I drilled a hole in the crown and tapped it 5mm.
The fork crown is like aluminum billet, and Cannondale just drilled
and tapped it for the rear bolt (no insert), so I did the same for
the front. Works great, and there is so much material that I don't
have any concern about a failure.

The SPPD8/Luxos B rides again, for what it's worth (which isn't a
whole lot). I forgot to charge a few times last month, so I
figured I'd lug it around as a backup.

"Luxos B dyno mood light"????

It's well known that I consider B+M an outstanding example of the
good being the enemy of the best, but what's wrong with the Luxos?

The big fat aluminum top's heatsink potential wasted by an outdated,
cold white, underpowered main led sitting on a plastic pcb. Jay's mood
light looks like the dim beam shown when the modder mumbles "Serien"
['zay rien] -- and that's on dry ground, not at Drizzleport, Ore.

https://youtu.be/zxbZLlvqfMg


Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800
lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest
setting on my L&M Urban 800 which requires charging but doesn't require a
dyno hub, wiring and a separate light. There is a good reason why dyno
lights have not captured the market.


We could again argue about which of reasons are valid, lame, technology or
culture specific, but the market shares are what they are.

I've always suspected my hub output was low, too,


Unlikely unless THEY put it on a rack in the way of the occasional ufo's hot
magnetic beam exhaust. Hub power failures tend not to be gradual ones,
unlike various effects of corrosion, current leakage, or led damage.

but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't
feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project.


Do Yourself In? Forget about Frank's multimeter then, you might poke your
lawyer hands. Does your Specialized son still know how to feed a light
bulb? You could have him test some clear (12..14V) automotive .4 or .5 amps
bulb with the bike stationary and giving the SP wheel a good spin. If the
bulb lights up reasonably bright, the generator is fine.


I have a multimeter and did house wiring and low voltage wiring before and after getting lawyer hands. I even have alligator clips. I just fixed my toaster, damn it! And the solenoid in my 1950 Westminster chime Nutone door bell.

I've put a multi-meter on it, and just looking at the output voltage doesn't say much, and I was thinking about testing it across a resistor. A light bulb as an indicator doesn't tell me much either except that the light bulb doesn't get that bright. I wonder if it should get brighter.

-- Jay Beattie.

  #10  
Old January 5th 20, 11:49 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
JBeattie
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,870
Default Voiding the warranty -- Dyno Redux

On Sunday, January 5, 2020 at 12:02:24 PM UTC-8, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 1/5/2020 11:08 AM, jbeattie wrote:

Andre Jute wrote:
what's wrong with the Luxos?


Or, as we simpletons put it, its dim -- at least compared to a decent 800 lumen all-in-one on a 500 lumen setting, i.e. the second to the highest setting on my L&M Urban 800...


Yep, lumen wars. And to continue the logic, the Urban 800 is dim at
least compared to the Urban 1000; which is really dim compared to the
Suburban 2500... and on and on.

A motorcycle's low beam headlamp is maybe 750 lumens and is usually fine
for 55 mph. It seems really weird to say you need to match that with a
bike headlight.


And we've talked about wet roads before; but last night, I was driving
on a dark, newly paved and relatively empty four-lane state highway in
the rain. For obvious optical reasons, I couldn't see my headlight beams
on the wet road. If my headlights were ten times brighter, I still
couldn't have seen them - but they sure would have been effective at
blinding oncoming motorists.

I've always suspected my hub output was low, too, but I don't have a reliable way of testing it and don't feel like doing a DYI Radio Shack project.

 




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