#41
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On 11/18/2017 3:59 PM, Frank Krygowski wrote:
On 11/18/2017 4:17 PM, AMuzi wrote: For events such as World Series, World Cup, Super Bowl etc shirt vendors order large quantities of printed merchandise with both teams. The loser brand merchandise is donated for a charitable contribution and the charitable contribution tax deduction. Hence the photo in Africa. I learned about this only yesterday afternoon. Was it on this group that someone pointed to an article on the negative effects of such donations? I'm not sure. But somewhere I read that an unintended consequence is the killing of any cloth or clothing industries in the countries that receive the donations. Just goes to show that nothing is simple. Somewhere I've got a photo of us with some folks in their very remote eastern European village, the sort of place that's sees almost no tourists and is difficult to even drive to. One local guy is wearing an "I [heart] New York" T-shirt. I think the world must have been much more interesting before it was so thoroughly westernized. Absolutely. You are so wise. When I was sewing and wearing dashikis in the late 1960s it was eclectic and exotic. But an African wearing 'I ♥ NY' is cultural appropriation. -- Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org/ Open every day since 1 April, 1971 |
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#43
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On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 8:16:00 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-18 18:22, John B. wrote: On Sat, 18 Nov 2017 07:30:41 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-16 17:05, John B. wrote: On Thu, 16 Nov 2017 16:23:34 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-16 16:09, John B. wrote: On Thu, 16 Nov 2017 15:28:13 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-16 13:21, Tosspot wrote: On 16/11/17 20:38, David Scheidt wrote: Tosspot wrote: :Why do they have holes in them? :Car discs don't, motorbike discs don't, aircraft discs don't. Why do :bicycle discs have them? Lots of high-performance car brake rotors are drilled or slotted. Slotting is more common on better stuff, holes can crack. They serve a couple of features. One, people think they're cool. two, they allow the gasses that come off brake pads somewhere to go (this is a non-issue with modern pads, but it was a problem in the dark ages). Three, they give water somewhere to go. Four, they improve cooling (increase surface area). five, the clean pads, and reduce wear. Gasses off a bicycle pad? Really? Nobody drills rims, and most[1] motorbikes, which are exposed to the rain don't. Because 75 kg of me at 30 kph is the same KE as 160 kph Audi at 1.5 tonnes? Nah. Hmmm...could it be it helps to clean them? They aren't dissipating the KE, so they don't get Eeek! hot. But surely the crud would build up in the holes? I'm going to order a solid one for the front and fit it in the spring and see if it makes any difference. If you find a place (in the US or China) that sells solid 8" or 203mm rotors please let us know. https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Guide-Ul.../dp/B00XAY7CYK or http://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-Guide-...te-Disc-Brake/ The SRAM brake Ultimate Brake with 950mm front discs and 1,800 rear discs. Quote "ROTOR SIZES: 140, 160, 170, 180, 200mm" I've got that already. It's not solid rotors. I assume these are for the "go fast people". What's so special about this stuff other than very high prices? Good Lord! It is made by SRAM and everyone knows that they build super stuff. Some of which is even used on TdeF racing bicycles :-) Oh, yes, right. We must bow down deeply and I should never complain about having to pay 10x or more than my current solution. Another confession. I use $10 T-shirts on all my rides instead of $100 technicolor Spandex. Current solution? I had described it more than once now: Shimano RT-66 rotors with 203mm and Promax Decipher hydraulic brakes. Worked very nicely on a short test ride. Wanted to do a long ride on Friday but it had rained and my wife didn't want to see a mud-dripping MTB and rider in the garage again. So I took the road bike out west instead. Went through almost 2ft deep water and thanks to our wood stove the shoes are just now dry again. ... Like the hose clamps to keep the front fork bearings from falling off? That hose clamp works poifectly. But more to the point $10 for a tee shirt? That is (last time I checked the exchange rate) 330 baht for a tee shirt? Absurd, I buy tee shirts for 100 baht each, six for 500 baht. We can get them for that price as well. However, then the collars wear out faster and become floppy. Also, I need 100% cotton and of good quality. Not something super-thin that unravels at the first brush with a blackberry bush. Do you only ride on 80 degree days? A cotton t-shirt is probably the worst base-layer imaginable -- particularly an all cotton t-shirt. My base layer yesterday and today is wool -- although I use polypro a lot (almost always for skiing). Poly pro is better for wet weather because it dries faster. -- Jay Beattie. |
#44
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On 2017-11-19 09:13, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 8:16:00 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-18 18:22, John B. wrote: [...] ... Like the hose clamps to keep the front fork bearings from falling off? That hose clamp works poifectly. But more to the point $10 for a tee shirt? That is (last time I checked the exchange rate) 330 baht for a tee shirt? Absurd, I buy tee shirts for 100 baht each, six for 500 baht. We can get them for that price as well. However, then the collars wear out faster and become floppy. Also, I need 100% cotton and of good quality. Not something super-thin that unravels at the first brush with a blackberry bush. Do you only ride on 80 degree days? A cotton t-shirt is probably the worst base-layer imaginable -- particularly an all cotton t-shirt. I ride in cotton T-shirts between 40F and 110F. Below 40F I carry a lumberjack shirt in a pannier but sometimes I don't use it. Mostly for long downhill sections because my lower back is not so great and cold can hurt it. Cotton really shines on hot summer days: Make it soaking wet and it'll provide evaporative cooling for at 1/2h. If clothing contains any sort of artifical materials (at least the ones I tested so far) I develop skin rashes. That is one of the reasons for not wearing a hydration pack anymore and equipping both bikes with the same model of panniers. My base layer yesterday and today is wool -- although I use polypro a lot (almost always for skiing). Poly pro is better for wet weather because it dries faster. 100% natural wool would be ok for me as well but 5-10mi into the ride I'd start sweating profusely. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
#45
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On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 10:12:05 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote:
On 2017-11-19 09:13, jbeattie wrote: On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 8:16:00 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-18 18:22, John B. wrote: [...] ... Like the hose clamps to keep the front fork bearings from falling off? That hose clamp works poifectly. But more to the point $10 for a tee shirt? That is (last time I checked the exchange rate) 330 baht for a tee shirt? Absurd, I buy tee shirts for 100 baht each, six for 500 baht. We can get them for that price as well. However, then the collars wear out faster and become floppy. Also, I need 100% cotton and of good quality. Not something super-thin that unravels at the first brush with a blackberry bush. Do you only ride on 80 degree days? A cotton t-shirt is probably the worst base-layer imaginable -- particularly an all cotton t-shirt. I ride in cotton T-shirts between 40F and 110F. Below 40F I carry a lumberjack shirt in a pannier but sometimes I don't use it. Mostly for long downhill sections because my lower back is not so great and cold can hurt it. Cotton really shines on hot summer days: Make it soaking wet and it'll provide evaporative cooling for at 1/2h. If clothing contains any sort of artifical materials (at least the ones I tested so far) I develop skin rashes. That is one of the reasons for not wearing a hydration pack anymore and equipping both bikes with the same model of panniers. My base layer yesterday and today is wool -- although I use polypro a lot (almost always for skiing). Poly pro is better for wet weather because it dries faster. 100% natural wool would be ok for me as well but 5-10mi into the ride I'd start sweating profusely. Unless you have a metabolic disorder, I doubt you would be sweating that hard when its 35F or below, and if you did sweat, wool wicks a lot better than cotton -- but more importantly, wool traps air and stays warm when it is wet. As a base layer, cotton is like wearing a wet washrag. I just did a 30 mile spin with probably 3K climbing around the West Hills in a wool base layer, a winter poly jersey and a vest -- which was a perfect mix for a 35F-ish dry day. Unzipping the vest kept me from sweating too much on the climbs, and zipping it back up kept me warm on the descents. My wool base layer got wet, but it stayed warm. I think poly would have wicked better. I also had my ear-warmer. I think layering is an art form, particularly when it is raining, and you want to do a long ride. -- Jay Beattie. |
#46
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Window poly, coarse poly, finished poly,
Poly cotton 90/50 weight matters. The bus stops at 90 50. When cold, army merino over poly poly ? I go coarse poly then long sleeve window poly Then thin fleece under a breathable $45 shell Then I go home Wit REI's pre solstice sale, get there first with the REI card saving 28% on 1 garage, one regarding list plus 8% on else with free shipping ... a battle with software weaselville. Line choices as poly/hI king low to hi then bag first/2 poly choices in garage n reg Thus, I filled 3 empty layering levels with quality poly for $60. Almost Wal n remeber, Ima Egyptian nice Dodge SUPER SUPER ticka ticka ! |
#47
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\●*¿¿ my spallxhuxher is PITA
90/10.... poly.. low/hi $ |
#48
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On Sun, 19 Nov 2017 08:15:53 -0800, Joerg
wrote: On 2017-11-18 18:22, John B. wrote: On Sat, 18 Nov 2017 07:30:41 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-16 17:05, John B. wrote: On Thu, 16 Nov 2017 16:23:34 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-16 16:09, John B. wrote: On Thu, 16 Nov 2017 15:28:13 -0800, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-16 13:21, Tosspot wrote: On 16/11/17 20:38, David Scheidt wrote: Tosspot wrote: :Why do they have holes in them? :Car discs don't, motorbike discs don't, aircraft discs don't. Why do :bicycle discs have them? Lots of high-performance car brake rotors are drilled or slotted. Slotting is more common on better stuff, holes can crack. They serve a couple of features. One, people think they're cool. two, they allow the gasses that come off brake pads somewhere to go (this is a non-issue with modern pads, but it was a problem in the dark ages). Three, they give water somewhere to go. Four, they improve cooling (increase surface area). five, the clean pads, and reduce wear. Gasses off a bicycle pad? Really? Nobody drills rims, and most[1] motorbikes, which are exposed to the rain don't. Because 75 kg of me at 30 kph is the same KE as 160 kph Audi at 1.5 tonnes? Nah. Hmmm...could it be it helps to clean them? They aren't dissipating the KE, so they don't get Eeek! hot. But surely the crud would build up in the holes? I'm going to order a solid one for the front and fit it in the spring and see if it makes any difference. If you find a place (in the US or China) that sells solid 8" or 203mm rotors please let us know. https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Guide-Ul.../dp/B00XAY7CYK or http://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-Guide-...te-Disc-Brake/ The SRAM brake Ultimate Brake with 950mm front discs and 1,800 rear discs. Quote "ROTOR SIZES: 140, 160, 170, 180, 200mm" I've got that already. It's not solid rotors. I assume these are for the "go fast people". What's so special about this stuff other than very high prices? Good Lord! It is made by SRAM and everyone knows that they build super stuff. Some of which is even used on TdeF racing bicycles :-) Oh, yes, right. We must bow down deeply and I should never complain about having to pay 10x or more than my current solution. Another confession. I use $10 T-shirts on all my rides instead of $100 technicolor Spandex. Current solution? I had described it more than once now: Shimano RT-66 rotors with 203mm and Promax Decipher hydraulic brakes. Worked very nicely on a short test ride. Wanted to do a long ride on Friday but it had rained and my wife didn't want to see a mud-dripping MTB and rider in the garage again. So I took the road bike out west instead. Went through almost 2ft deep water and thanks to our wood stove the shoes are just now dry again. ... Like the hose clamps to keep the front fork bearings from falling off? That hose clamp works poifectly. But more to the point $10 for a tee shirt? That is (last time I checked the exchange rate) 330 baht for a tee shirt? Absurd, I buy tee shirts for 100 baht each, six for 500 baht. We can get them for that price as well. However, then the collars wear out faster and become floppy. Also, I need 100% cotton and of good quality. Not something super-thin that unravels at the first brush with a blackberry bush. You need to do more research. The 100% cotton are the cheap ones. But I don't understand the demand for high quality tee shirts. after all you have extolled us with your stories of riding with ragged shorts and sandals but you just got to have a beautiful tee shirt to go with the rags? Ten dollar tee and ragged shorts and no shoes? Amazing! -- Cheers, John B. |
#49
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J has a sag wagon spraying him with water
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#50
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On 2017-11-19 13:21, jbeattie wrote:
On Sunday, November 19, 2017 at 10:12:05 AM UTC-8, Joerg wrote: On 2017-11-19 09:13, jbeattie wrote: [...] My base layer yesterday and today is wool -- although I use polypro a lot (almost always for skiing). Poly pro is better for wet weather because it dries faster. 100% natural wool would be ok for me as well but 5-10mi into the ride I'd start sweating profusely. Unless you have a metabolic disorder, ... Don't know if that means anything but my metabolism has slowed after I started cyclibng again. Meaning that even 4000mi/year do not help with losing weight anymore. ... I doubt you would be sweating that hard when its 35F or below, and if you did sweat, wool wicks a lot better than cotton -- but more importantly, wool traps air and stays warm when it is wet. As a base layer, cotton is like wearing a wet washrag. At 35F not so much but yesterday it was about 50F up the hill where we rode and on the way up the front of my T-shirt became wet. Yeah, it feels like a wash rag when roaring down the hill later but the key advantage is that it doesn't give me a skin rash. Artificial fibers do. I just did a 30 mile spin with probably 3K climbing around the West Hills in a wool base layer, a winter poly jersey and a vest -- which was a perfect mix for a 35F-ish dry day. With all those layers I'd have sweated so bad that it would run out from underneath. ... Unzipping the vest kept me from sweating too much on the climbs, and zipping it back up kept me warm on the descents. My wool base layer got wet, but it stayed warm. I think poly would have wicked better. I also had my ear-warmer. I carry a lumberjack shirt in winter. Sometimes my wife (who feels cold when it drops anywhere below 75F) is concerned and urges me to don it when starting the ride. A few miles later I take it off. I think layering is an art form, particularly when it is raining, and you want to do a long ride. I grew up in an area where layering was considered "pamper-suffocating" (loose translation, there is no English word for it) :-) The extreme is a Russian couple building a house in our neighborhood right now. "So what are you plans for heating? A wood stove?" ... "What heating? It not get cold in this area, do not need heat". They grew up in Siberia. -- Regards, Joerg http://www.analogconsultants.com/ |
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