Chain / Sprocket Cleaning

"1013" wrote in message
...
I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot
of
build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

Is there a single rivet that needs to be removed or does every link along
the chain use a rivet which can be removed? The problem is my chain is so
dirty I cannot see a thing.

How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which
allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivets?

I'd remove the chain using a chain breaker, then give it a thorough clean.
My preferred method is to soak in kero, but other solvents may be better -
petrol has more nasties and catches fire more easily, so avoid that. I know
people who seal the chain and kero in a container, Put a load in the washing
machine and tape the container to the lid, and put a load through the
machine. All that vibration really gets the gunk out. I can't get away with
that method, so just swoosh it around with my hands - should wear gloves.
Empty the dirty kero, and repeat, until the kero stays clean (or very
close). This means there's no more dirt on or in the chain. You can recycle
the solvent buy filtering it into a container, and then allowing the grit to
settle before transferring to a new container. It never gets completely
clean, so I use the recycled stuff for the first couple of cleans - not
rinses.

To rejoin the chain, Shimano sell special joining pins (last time I bought
one I think it was less than $2). They strongly recommend against reusing
the pin you pushed out. Alternatively, buy a joiner link - SRAM, Craig Super
Links, and others all work well. Now you can take the chain off and clean it
regularly. I really like that feature of joining links.

Allow the chain to dry, then relube with lube of your choice. I like wax
lubes for their cleanliness, but find they can lead to squeaking chains
quickly, so nowadays I use a combo wet/wax lube (White Lightning Extreme).
Not as clean, but doesn't squeak as quickly. Wipe off excess lube. Ride.

HTH

Tony F
http://www.thefathippy.com

"alex" wrote in message
oups.com...

I use a chain cleaner machine: http://www.parktool.com/tools/CM_5.shtml
along with a chain whip, cassette lock ring remover, rags and a
toothbrush to clean my drivetrain. I use kerosene to remove the muck.
Be very careful not to get the kero in your hubs/bottom bracket

The chain cleaner machine look alright but I think my chain, etc needs
something more since there is such a large build up of grime.

I have read varying reports on the effectiveness of those machines (less
thorough clean compared with soaking a chain in kero or a citrus degreaser
but they seem to require the least effort compared with removing a chain.

1013 wrote:
"alex" wrote in message

I have read varying reports on the effectiveness of those machines (less
thorough clean compared with soaking a chain in kero or a citrus degreaser
but they seem to require the least effort compared with removing a chain.

yep.. nothing beats taking the chain off.. but I don't have a link on
mine

As the status quo on the replies have been to clean in kero etc (I hav
used turps once – left over from painting the house), then I can’t se
any problem in just removing your rear wheel & threading out the chai
off the rear derailleur & front chain wheels, & just soak half of it fo
a spell & then the other half, giving it abit of a scrub with an ol
toothbrush (or equiv) in between.
I go through heaps of rags too & mess a hell of a mess when I clean m
chain like this.

At least this way the awkwardness you have to put up with doing th
clean means you don’t have to worry about breaking the chain.

I re-lube with WD-40 first, run it through a rag heaps & then re-lub
with proper bicycle chain lube. (Motorcycle chain lube is a little to
heavy of this – I’ve found).


Even after all this I still get some grinding noises from the chain fo
the next 30kms, but it goes away, eventually ……

--
Marx SS

alex wrote:
1013 wrote:

"alex" wrote in message


I have read varying reports on the effectiveness of those machines (less
thorough clean compared with soaking a chain in kero or a citrus degreaser
but they seem to require the least effort compared with removing a chain.


yep.. nothing beats taking the chain off.. but I don't have a link on
mine


Breaking and rejoining a Shimano chain often ends in tears. Despite the
technology there still seems to be an element of luck involved in
getting it right, and you often end up having to do more than one join.

If it ain't broke, don't break it.

Zoom

Push out the link with a chain breaker. Clean the chain with a nic
organic degreaser (Kenco is great if you dont like the environment)
Buy a shimano 9 speed joining link (about $3) and push it in with th
chain breaker. The latest shimano links are very easy to feel when i
is in the correct position. If the link ends up stiff try using th
chain breaker to push the link either way a fraction and you will fin
it loosens up

Then use a proper chain lube on the chain. I personally wouldn't le
WD40, RP7 etc anywhere near my chain due to their effect of dispersin
oil (they work quite well in cleaning up gunked up parts). If you d
use them then you really should degrease your chain anyhow. Then you
back to applying a proper lubricant anyhow

If you have a cassette tool remove your cassette and clean it up usin
the degreaser also. If you dont remove the cassette be careful whe
using degreaser and the washing it off with a hose as you ca
inadvertantly force degreaser into your hub / freewheel bearings
Another option for the cassette is to remove the wheel from your bik
and clean the cassette with a rag

This all might sound like bit of a big job but when you have the chai
clean and lubbed some routine maintenance keeps it pretty good wit
minimal effort. I generally run the chain through a rag and give th
cassette a rag clean every couple of weeks. Then reapply lubricant
Keeps it all looking nice and shiny. (especially when you have a highe
end cassette

--
Paulie-AU

In article ,
"1013" wrote:

there is such a large build up of grime

It doesn't look pretty, but damage occurs on the inside of the chain,
out of sight, and is caused by fine grit, not large clumps.

--
Shane Stanley

1013 wrote:
I would like to remove my chain to clean it properly since there is a lot of
build up of dirt and grime. I am pretty sure the chain is a Shimano chain
and I have read that you need special tools to remove it.

Is there a single rivet that needs to be removed or does every link along
the chain use a rivet which can be removed? The problem is my chain is so
dirty I cannot see a thing.

How much does the tool cost to remove the rivet? Are master links which
allow easy chain removal just as strong as rivets?

Thanks in advance.

Photos of the chain, etc:
http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/mtb1.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain1.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain2.jpg
http://users.bigpond.net.au/sk/chain3.jpg





If it's been that bad for a while I reckon your chain is probably
knackered anyway. Time to check the cassette and chainrings too.

I've been using Connex joining links on all my bikes for years now. 8
and 9 speed links only cost $10 each and last forever (more or less)
and they don't require tools to take off or put back on.

--
Nick

On Thu, 4 Aug 2005, Paulie-AU wrote:


Push out the link with a chain breaker. Clean the chain with a nice
organic degreaser (Kenco is great if you dont like the environment).
Buy a shimano 9 speed joining link (about $3) and push it in with the
chain breaker. The latest shimano links are very easy to feel when it
is in the correct position. If the link ends up stiff try using the
chain breaker to push the link either way a fraction and you will find
it loosens up.

Then use a proper chain lube on the chain. I personally wouldn't let
WD40, RP7 etc anywhere near my chain due to their effect of dispersing
oil (they work quite well in cleaning up gunked up parts). If you do
use them then you really should degrease your chain anyhow. Then your
back to applying a proper lubricant anyhow.

If you have a cassette tool remove your cassette and clean it up using
the degreaser also. If you dont remove the cassette be careful when
using degreaser and the washing it off with a hose as you can
inadvertantly force degreaser into your hub / freewheel bearings.
Another option for the cassette is to remove the wheel from your bike
and clean the cassette with a rag.

This all might sound like bit of a big job but when you have the chain
clean and lubbed some routine maintenance keeps it pretty good with
minimal effort. I generally run the chain through a rag and give the
cassette a rag clean every couple of weeks. Then reapply lubricant.
Keeps it all looking nice and shiny. (especially when you have a higher
end cassette)


--
Paulie-AU

Paulie, you know so much... I think I might follow Lotte's bike
maintenance method, and get Paulie to fix it!

Tam *winning smile*

"1013" == 1013 writes:

1013 Thanks guys for your advice. I actually live in Sydney. My
1013 e-mail address is unrelated to my name/location.

*chuckle* for clarity I'm where my sig says, not where my email addy
says ;-) Had it for over ten years and see no reason to change (too
many mailing lists).
--
Cheers | ~~ __@
Euan | ~~ _-\,
Melbourne, Australia | ~ (*)/ (*)