What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?

On Feb 27, 11:58*am, Frank Krygowski
wrote:
Ed Treijs wrote:

Frank, this is the first bottom bracket issue I'm faced with in 30+
years of riding. I am happy to have shop which has the correct tools
and expertise to deal with it.

That surprises me. *I started biking (avidly, as an adult, that is) in
1972 or '73. *I probably worked on my first bottom bracket in 1974.

Perhaps I'm just better at ignoring bad bottom bracket issues.

When you asked whether the left hand crank bolt might have left hand
threads, I figured you were completely new to bike mechanics. *Since
you're not, I'll retract most of what I'd said.

I asked because of my esperience pulling pedals from the cranks. It
really does not help if you are inadvertently tightening the pedals
while thinking boy, this is really stuck, needs more force. I guess
the crank nut does not require backwards thread because there's no
epicycling motion.

In particular, you now said "I have accumulated various cone wrenches
and freewheel pullers, so that's not so bad. I also invested in a bike
stand because I have gotten tired for working on bicycles suspended from
chairs and such. I have full sets of metric and SAE wrenches, sockets,
hex drives, etc etc., mainly geared to automotive mechanics."

It's a random selection of tools.

The coolest tool is something that looks like a miniature Henry Moore
sculpture, but I believe it's actually a Suntour freewheel remover.
It's a big rounded aluminum casting designed to be turned by a
seatpost or something. Not likely that I will ever need it again,
though. My Bianchi may have had Suntour, or maybe it was the Centurion
LeMans. Both the victims of frame injury back in the 1980s.

OK, heck, you're pretty much set. *Get a crank puller; they're cheap!

Or get a bit of help from Sir Ridesalot.

Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes.

.....Ed

On 3/2/2012 12:19 PM, Ed Treijs wrote:
On Feb 27, 11:58 am, Frank
wrote:
Ed Treijs wrote:

Frank, this is the first bottom bracket issue I'm faced with in 30+
years of riding. I am happy to have shop which has the correct tools
and expertise to deal with it.

That surprises me. I started biking (avidly, as an adult, that is) in
1972 or '73. I probably worked on my first bottom bracket in 1974.

Perhaps I'm just better at ignoring bad bottom bracket issues.

When you asked whether the left hand crank bolt might have left hand
threads, I figured you were completely new to bike mechanics. Since
you're not, I'll retract most of what I'd said.

I asked because of my esperience pulling pedals from the cranks. It
really does not help if you are inadvertently tightening the pedals
while thinking boy, this is really stuck, needs more force. I guess
the crank nut does not require backwards thread because there's no
epicycling motion.

In particular, you now said "I have accumulated various cone wrenches
and freewheel pullers, so that's not so bad. I also invested in a bike
stand because I have gotten tired for working on bicycles suspended from
chairs and such. I have full sets of metric and SAE wrenches, sockets,
hex drives, etc etc., mainly geared to automotive mechanics."

It's a random selection of tools.

The coolest tool is something that looks like a miniature Henry Moore
sculpture, but I believe it's actually a Suntour freewheel remover.
It's a big rounded aluminum casting designed to be turned by a
seatpost or something. Not likely that I will ever need it again,
though. My Bianchi may have had Suntour, or maybe it was the Centurion
LeMans. Both the victims of frame injury back in the 1980s.

OK, heck, you're pretty much set. Get a crank puller; they're cheap!

Or get a bit of help from Sir Ridesalot.

Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes.


"It's a big rounded aluminum casting ..."

It's probably Angel Rodriguez' Pocket Pro freewheel tool holder

OBSOLETE TEN SPEED TOOL GRIEF-HANDWRINGING is surly offset by NOT
DOING IT AGAIN

is Steve relation of Eddie ? If so, does the relationship show on the bike ?

On Mar 2, 1:19*pm, Ed Treijs wrote:

Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes.

Right, so the verdict is, success.

Took two of us pretty much an entire Saturday, which included a trip
to a neighbouring town for parts.

Expense turned out to be around $70 plus a KMC chain that I purchased
a long time ago, plus some "High Temp Disc Brake Grease Suitable for
Marine Use Also" grease. Plus some large bearing balls I already had,
and some teensy ones for the pedals.

Bottom bracket turned out to be in good shape when disassembled,
though the grease had turned into a minimal bit of black putty. The
spindle had a bit of wear on the ring side (I think) but the cups and
bearings looked fine. Front and back wheels got new bearing balls and
cones. The front hub remains worn, but works smoothly enough with
fresh grease.

Derailleurs were removed and cleaned with new jockey pulleys
installed, new shifters and cables installed, and new chain went on.
Chainrings and freewheel kept.

Headset was judged fine and left as is.

So replacement parts would have been:
--Crank spindle
--Front and back wheel cones and bearing balls
--New chain
--Used Shimano SIS shifters, new cables, new housing (a nice feature
of downtube shifters is that the only cable housing is a very short
piece to the rear derailleur)
--Used rear derailleur jockey pulleys
--Extra bearing balls for the pedals to top up the count (every time I
had the pedals apart a few balls escaped and got lost)

Sunday I put everything together, cleaning up the rims and brake pads
and sort-of truing the rear wheel a bit.

The good news is that the chain does not skip in any gears, so the
ring and freewheel are fine. The front derailleur may require a bit of
adjustment, but the rear was spot on (or almost).

I think that I should just schedule a monthly cleanup for the bike.
With the bike stand, it's a lot easier to do. And annually, change the
chain and grease the bearings. Except the bottom bracket, it should
now be good for at least another decade or two (to judge by how it
lived through its first 25 years).

.....Ed

Ed Treijs wrote:
On Mar 2, 1:19 pm, Ed wrote:

Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes.

Right, so the verdict is, success.

Took two of us pretty much an entire Saturday, which included a trip
to a neighbouring town for parts.

Expense turned out to be around $70 plus a KMC chain that I purchased
a long time ago, plus some "High Temp Disc Brake Grease Suitable for
Marine Use Also" grease. Plus some large bearing balls I already had,
and some teensy ones for the pedals.

Bottom bracket turned out to be in good shape when disassembled,
though the grease had turned into a minimal bit of black putty. The
spindle had a bit of wear on the ring side (I think) but the cups and
bearings looked fine. Front and back wheels got new bearing balls and
cones. The front hub remains worn, but works smoothly enough with
fresh grease.

Derailleurs were removed and cleaned with new jockey pulleys
installed, new shifters and cables installed, and new chain went on.
Chainrings and freewheel kept.

Headset was judged fine and left as is.

So replacement parts would have been:
--Crank spindle
--Front and back wheel cones and bearing balls
--New chain
--Used Shimano SIS shifters, new cables, new housing (a nice feature
of downtube shifters is that the only cable housing is a very short
piece to the rear derailleur)
--Used rear derailleur jockey pulleys
--Extra bearing balls for the pedals to top up the count (every time I
had the pedals apart a few balls escaped and got lost)

Sunday I put everything together, cleaning up the rims and brake pads
and sort-of truing the rear wheel a bit.

The good news is that the chain does not skip in any gears, so the
ring and freewheel are fine. The front derailleur may require a bit of
adjustment, but the rear was spot on (or almost).

I think that I should just schedule a monthly cleanup for the bike.
With the bike stand, it's a lot easier to do. And annually, change the
chain and grease the bearings. Except the bottom bracket, it should
now be good for at least another decade or two (to judge by how it
lived through its first 25 years).

....Ed

Congratulations!

--
- Frank Krygowski

On Mar 3, 11:44*pm, kolldata wrote:
is Steve relation of Eddie ? If so, does the relationship show on the bike ?

Oh, now I get it.

No, Steve Bauer was a Candian cyclist who had a fair amount of success
in the 1980s and 1990s. A fair amount by Canadian standards, anyway.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steve_Bauer

While the bike is made in Japan or Taiwan (I think), it's nice to have
a Canadian name on it. Being in Canada and all.

.....Ed

On Mar 5, 3:37*pm, Ed Treijs wrote:
On Mar 2, 1:19*pm, Ed Treijs wrote:

Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes.

Right, so the verdict is, success.

Took two of us pretty much an entire Saturday, which included a trip
to a neighbouring town for parts.

Expense turned out to be around $70 plus a KMC chain that I purchased
a long time ago, plus some "High Temp Disc Brake Grease Suitable for
Marine Use Also" grease. Plus some large bearing balls I already had,
and some teensy ones for the pedals.

Bottom bracket turned out to be in good shape when disassembled,
though the grease had turned into a minimal bit of black putty. The
spindle had a bit of wear on the ring side (I think) but the cups and
bearings looked fine. Front and back wheels got new bearing balls and
cones. The front hub remains worn, but works smoothly enough with
fresh grease.

Derailleurs were removed and cleaned with new jockey pulleys
installed, new shifters and cables installed, and new chain went on.
Chainrings and freewheel kept.

Headset was judged fine and left as is.

So replacement parts would have been:
--Crank spindle
--Front and back wheel cones and bearing balls
--New chain
--Used Shimano SIS shifters, new cables, new housing (a nice feature
of downtube shifters is that the only cable housing is a very short
piece to the rear derailleur)
--Used rear derailleur jockey pulleys
--Extra bearing balls for the pedals to top up the count (every time I
had the pedals apart a few balls escaped and got lost)

Sunday I put everything together, cleaning up the rims and brake pads
and sort-of truing the rear wheel a bit.

The good news is that the chain does not skip in any gears, so the
ring and freewheel are fine. The front derailleur may require a bit of
adjustment, but the rear was spot on (or almost).

I think that I should just schedule a monthly cleanup for the bike.
With the bike stand, it's a lot easier to do. And annually, change the
chain and grease the bearings. Except the bottom bracket, it should
now be good for at least another decade or two (to judge by how it
lived through its first 25 years).

....Ed

The *ONLY* reason the shifters were change wasbecause they old ones
were 6 speed and the freewheel had 7 cogs.

It's a nice bike and is fairly light considering when it ws made. The
best thing is that for Ed the fit is nearly perfect.

Cheers

On Mar 5, 7:25*pm, Sir Ridesalot wrote:

The *ONLY* reason the shifters were change wasbecause they old ones
were 6 speed and the freewheel had 7 cogs.

Mmm, not quite. The front shifter had some broken bits so it was
slipping and also could be pivoted forward below the tube at which
point it interfered with the steering crown (which I discovered the
hard way). The back shifter's click stops were not all that positive
and had a bit of play and could overshift. With the new shifter, it's
just "click" and no wiggling the lever around.

It does seem that the new shifters are heavier in action than the old
ones. I'll get used to that.

.....Ed