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#41
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What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?
On Feb 27, 11:58*am, Frank Krygowski
wrote: Ed Treijs wrote: Frank, this is the first bottom bracket issue I'm faced with in 30+ years of riding. I am happy to have shop which has the correct tools and expertise to deal with it. That surprises me. *I started biking (avidly, as an adult, that is) in 1972 or '73. *I probably worked on my first bottom bracket in 1974. Perhaps I'm just better at ignoring bad bottom bracket issues. When you asked whether the left hand crank bolt might have left hand threads, I figured you were completely new to bike mechanics. *Since you're not, I'll retract most of what I'd said. I asked because of my esperience pulling pedals from the cranks. It really does not help if you are inadvertently tightening the pedals while thinking boy, this is really stuck, needs more force. I guess the crank nut does not require backwards thread because there's no epicycling motion. In particular, you now said "I have accumulated various cone wrenches and freewheel pullers, so that's not so bad. I also invested in a bike stand because I have gotten tired for working on bicycles suspended from chairs and such. I have full sets of metric and SAE wrenches, sockets, hex drives, etc etc., mainly geared to automotive mechanics." It's a random selection of tools. The coolest tool is something that looks like a miniature Henry Moore sculpture, but I believe it's actually a Suntour freewheel remover. It's a big rounded aluminum casting designed to be turned by a seatpost or something. Not likely that I will ever need it again, though. My Bianchi may have had Suntour, or maybe it was the Centurion LeMans. Both the victims of frame injury back in the 1980s. OK, heck, you're pretty much set. *Get a crank puller; they're cheap! Or get a bit of help from Sir Ridesalot. Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes. .....Ed |
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#42
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What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?
On 3/2/2012 12:19 PM, Ed Treijs wrote:
On Feb 27, 11:58 am, Frank wrote: Ed Treijs wrote: Frank, this is the first bottom bracket issue I'm faced with in 30+ years of riding. I am happy to have shop which has the correct tools and expertise to deal with it. That surprises me. I started biking (avidly, as an adult, that is) in 1972 or '73. I probably worked on my first bottom bracket in 1974. Perhaps I'm just better at ignoring bad bottom bracket issues. When you asked whether the left hand crank bolt might have left hand threads, I figured you were completely new to bike mechanics. Since you're not, I'll retract most of what I'd said. I asked because of my esperience pulling pedals from the cranks. It really does not help if you are inadvertently tightening the pedals while thinking boy, this is really stuck, needs more force. I guess the crank nut does not require backwards thread because there's no epicycling motion. In particular, you now said "I have accumulated various cone wrenches and freewheel pullers, so that's not so bad. I also invested in a bike stand because I have gotten tired for working on bicycles suspended from chairs and such. I have full sets of metric and SAE wrenches, sockets, hex drives, etc etc., mainly geared to automotive mechanics." It's a random selection of tools. The coolest tool is something that looks like a miniature Henry Moore sculpture, but I believe it's actually a Suntour freewheel remover. It's a big rounded aluminum casting designed to be turned by a seatpost or something. Not likely that I will ever need it again, though. My Bianchi may have had Suntour, or maybe it was the Centurion LeMans. Both the victims of frame injury back in the 1980s. OK, heck, you're pretty much set. Get a crank puller; they're cheap! Or get a bit of help from Sir Ridesalot. Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes. "It's a big rounded aluminum casting ..." It's probably Angel Rodriguez' Pocket Pro freewheel tool holder |
#43
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What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?
OBSOLETE TEN SPEED TOOL GRIEF-HANDWRINGING is surly offset by NOT
DOING IT AGAIN |
#44
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What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?
is Steve relation of Eddie ? If so, does the relationship show on the bike ?
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#45
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What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?
On Mar 2, 1:19*pm, Ed Treijs wrote:
Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes. Right, so the verdict is, success. Took two of us pretty much an entire Saturday, which included a trip to a neighbouring town for parts. Expense turned out to be around $70 plus a KMC chain that I purchased a long time ago, plus some "High Temp Disc Brake Grease Suitable for Marine Use Also" grease. Plus some large bearing balls I already had, and some teensy ones for the pedals. Bottom bracket turned out to be in good shape when disassembled, though the grease had turned into a minimal bit of black putty. The spindle had a bit of wear on the ring side (I think) but the cups and bearings looked fine. Front and back wheels got new bearing balls and cones. The front hub remains worn, but works smoothly enough with fresh grease. Derailleurs were removed and cleaned with new jockey pulleys installed, new shifters and cables installed, and new chain went on. Chainrings and freewheel kept. Headset was judged fine and left as is. So replacement parts would have been: --Crank spindle --Front and back wheel cones and bearing balls --New chain --Used Shimano SIS shifters, new cables, new housing (a nice feature of downtube shifters is that the only cable housing is a very short piece to the rear derailleur) --Used rear derailleur jockey pulleys --Extra bearing balls for the pedals to top up the count (every time I had the pedals apart a few balls escaped and got lost) Sunday I put everything together, cleaning up the rims and brake pads and sort-of truing the rear wheel a bit. The good news is that the chain does not skip in any gears, so the ring and freewheel are fine. The front derailleur may require a bit of adjustment, but the rear was spot on (or almost). I think that I should just schedule a monthly cleanup for the bike. With the bike stand, it's a lot easier to do. And annually, change the chain and grease the bearings. Except the bottom bracket, it should now be good for at least another decade or two (to judge by how it lived through its first 25 years). .....Ed |
#46
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What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?
Ed Treijs wrote:
On Mar 2, 1:19 pm, Ed wrote: Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes. Right, so the verdict is, success. Took two of us pretty much an entire Saturday, which included a trip to a neighbouring town for parts. Expense turned out to be around $70 plus a KMC chain that I purchased a long time ago, plus some "High Temp Disc Brake Grease Suitable for Marine Use Also" grease. Plus some large bearing balls I already had, and some teensy ones for the pedals. Bottom bracket turned out to be in good shape when disassembled, though the grease had turned into a minimal bit of black putty. The spindle had a bit of wear on the ring side (I think) but the cups and bearings looked fine. Front and back wheels got new bearing balls and cones. The front hub remains worn, but works smoothly enough with fresh grease. Derailleurs were removed and cleaned with new jockey pulleys installed, new shifters and cables installed, and new chain went on. Chainrings and freewheel kept. Headset was judged fine and left as is. So replacement parts would have been: --Crank spindle --Front and back wheel cones and bearing balls --New chain --Used Shimano SIS shifters, new cables, new housing (a nice feature of downtube shifters is that the only cable housing is a very short piece to the rear derailleur) --Used rear derailleur jockey pulleys --Extra bearing balls for the pedals to top up the count (every time I had the pedals apart a few balls escaped and got lost) Sunday I put everything together, cleaning up the rims and brake pads and sort-of truing the rear wheel a bit. The good news is that the chain does not skip in any gears, so the ring and freewheel are fine. The front derailleur may require a bit of adjustment, but the rear was spot on (or almost). I think that I should just schedule a monthly cleanup for the bike. With the bike stand, it's a lot easier to do. And annually, change the chain and grease the bearings. Except the bottom bracket, it should now be good for at least another decade or two (to judge by how it lived through its first 25 years). ....Ed Congratulations! -- - Frank Krygowski |
#47
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What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?
On Mar 3, 11:44*pm, kolldata wrote:
is Steve relation of Eddie ? If so, does the relationship show on the bike ? Oh, now I get it. No, Steve Bauer was a Candian cyclist who had a fair amount of success in the 1980s and 1990s. A fair amount by Canadian standards, anyway. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steve_Bauer While the bike is made in Japan or Taiwan (I think), it's nice to have a Canadian name on it. Being in Canada and all. .....Ed |
#48
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What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?
On Mar 5, 3:37*pm, Ed Treijs wrote:
On Mar 2, 1:19*pm, Ed Treijs wrote: Tackling it this Saturday....will let everyone know how it goes. Right, so the verdict is, success. Took two of us pretty much an entire Saturday, which included a trip to a neighbouring town for parts. Expense turned out to be around $70 plus a KMC chain that I purchased a long time ago, plus some "High Temp Disc Brake Grease Suitable for Marine Use Also" grease. Plus some large bearing balls I already had, and some teensy ones for the pedals. Bottom bracket turned out to be in good shape when disassembled, though the grease had turned into a minimal bit of black putty. The spindle had a bit of wear on the ring side (I think) but the cups and bearings looked fine. Front and back wheels got new bearing balls and cones. The front hub remains worn, but works smoothly enough with fresh grease. Derailleurs were removed and cleaned with new jockey pulleys installed, new shifters and cables installed, and new chain went on. Chainrings and freewheel kept. Headset was judged fine and left as is. So replacement parts would have been: --Crank spindle --Front and back wheel cones and bearing balls --New chain --Used Shimano SIS shifters, new cables, new housing (a nice feature of downtube shifters is that the only cable housing is a very short piece to the rear derailleur) --Used rear derailleur jockey pulleys --Extra bearing balls for the pedals to top up the count (every time I had the pedals apart a few balls escaped and got lost) Sunday I put everything together, cleaning up the rims and brake pads and sort-of truing the rear wheel a bit. The good news is that the chain does not skip in any gears, so the ring and freewheel are fine. The front derailleur may require a bit of adjustment, but the rear was spot on (or almost). I think that I should just schedule a monthly cleanup for the bike. With the bike stand, it's a lot easier to do. And annually, change the chain and grease the bearings. Except the bottom bracket, it should now be good for at least another decade or two (to judge by how it lived through its first 25 years). ....Ed The *ONLY* reason the shifters were change wasbecause they old ones were 6 speed and the freewheel had 7 cogs. It's a nice bike and is fairly light considering when it ws made. The best thing is that for Ed the fit is nearly perfect. Cheers |
#49
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What to do with my well-worn Steve Bauer Chinook?
On Mar 5, 7:25*pm, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
The *ONLY* reason the shifters were change wasbecause they old ones were 6 speed and the freewheel had 7 cogs. Mmm, not quite. The front shifter had some broken bits so it was slipping and also could be pivoted forward below the tube at which point it interfered with the steering crown (which I discovered the hard way). The back shifter's click stops were not all that positive and had a bit of play and could overshift. With the new shifter, it's just "click" and no wiggling the lever around. It does seem that the new shifters are heavier in action than the old ones. I'll get used to that. .....Ed |
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