replace crankset bearing on gear side

Situation and story:

I noticed the crankset started to cough and jump when
pedaling, so I thought I'd examine the bearings. I
managed to remove the pedals with a fixed wrench, and
then open the crankset with a pipe wrench. On the side
which do not carry the cogwheel I got loose a couple
of pieces smoothly, including the bearing. But on the
side with the cogwheel I can't get the bearing out the
corresponding way (because of the cogwheel). I can't
get it out on the other side because there is a metal
ring around the center that shrinks the hole as much
as to not let the bearing out that way either. And for
the same reason (the metal ring) I can't push the
whole pedal(less) bar out on the cogwheel side. I
thought about either breaking the bearing and somehow
repair it while in place, either that or banging out
the metal ring from the other side with a hammer and a
screwdriver, only none of that seem like a good way to
do it. I'd be very thankful if you could help me find
a solution as this has frustrated me for some time
now...

--
underground experts united

On 16/02/15 10:38, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Situation and story:

I noticed the crankset started to cough and jump when
pedaling, so I thought I'd examine the bearings. I
managed to remove the pedals with a fixed wrench, and
then open the crankset with a pipe wrench. On the side
which do not carry the cogwheel I got loose a couple
of pieces smoothly, including the bearing. But on the
side with the cogwheel I can't get the bearing out the
corresponding way (because of the cogwheel). I can't
get it out on the other side because there is a metal
ring around the center that shrinks the hole as much
as to not let the bearing out that way either. And for
the same reason (the metal ring) I can't push the
whole pedal(less) bar out on the cogwheel side. I
thought about either breaking the bearing and somehow
repair it while in place, either that or banging out
the metal ring from the other side with a hammer and a
screwdriver, only none of that seem like a good way to
do it. I'd be very thankful if you could help me find
a solution as this has frustrated me for some time
now...


What type of bicycle? BMX or cheap department store? I'm imagining a
one piece Ashtabula crack. Does this help? http://sheldonbrown.com/opc.html

--
JS

the ring(s) thread

heat ring with propane torch
wrench with http://goo.gl/fgwVPY
the axle is attached to cog ?

the assembly twists out

either measure everything then look online using a Google images search for your bottom bracket type so you know what the parts names are
then look online for parts prob cups and bearings
or more $$ but not much $10 ? take the mess into the LBS

reassemble clean with grease and Loctite...red locktite on rings blue locktite on cups.

you can buy the complete setup axle cog and all ask Universal Cycles online.

maybe Andrew Muzi knows a source ?



you could clean n grease then reassemble as is.

writes:

the ring(s) thread

heat ring with propane torch wrench with
http://goo.gl/fgwVPY

I tried to grip it with the pipe wrench which is
adjustable as well but the grip area is so small,
width maybe 2 mm, so I couldn't get a grip.

I didn't consider heating. I don't have a propane
torch... can it be done without it?

Is the ring threaded on the inside like a big screw or
is it just bolted in?

the axle is attached to cog ?

The cog is now loose because I fiddled with all the
pieces to look if I could get them out of there
somehow but it is attached in the sense it can't be
brought out entirely because it is blocked on both
sides still.

--
underground experts united

James writes:

What type of bicycle? BMX or cheap department store?
I'm imagining a one piece Ashtabula crack.

It is not a BMX. I can get the exact name tomorrow if
it is written somewhere on the bike.

Does this help? http://sheldonbrown.com/opc.html

It looks like that in general but without the big
screw-nut thing.

--
underground experts united

read Brown's information and hyperlinks then read

https://www.google.com/#q=astabula+cranks

on Brown's photo you will see bearings held in with a large washer on crank held onto the BB/frame with a large chrome nut...

your description is a cup attached to BB/frame that is not connected to the axle ?

then this would probably thread onto the BB/frame. that would need heat for removal, heat from a propane torch.

If you look thru Google Images for: Ashtabula crank assembly...you should come across your set up....which is findable in Google Shopping

always turn the torch OFF when done or place gas canister in a SECURE position. The torch may be lit but you may not see flame.00

On Sunday, February 15, 2015 at 9:36:21 PM UTC-5, wrote:
read Brown's information and hyperlinks then read

https://www.google.com/#q=astabula+cranks

on Brown's photo you will see bearings held in with a large washer on crank held onto the BB/frame with a large chrome nut...

your description is a cup attached to BB/frame that is not connected to the axle ?

then this would probably thread onto the BB/frame. that would need heat for removal, heat from a propane torch.

If you look thru Google Images for: Ashtabula crank assembly...you should come across your set up....which is findable in Google Shopping

always turn the torch OFF when done or place gas canister in a SECURE position. The torch may be lit but you may not see flame.00

Geeze man stop with the propane torch advice as most bottom brackets do NOT need to be heated to be taken apart!

Cheers

On Sunday, February 15, 2015 at 7:35:49 PM UTC-5, Emanuel Berg wrote:
Situation and story:

I noticed the crankset started to cough and jump when
pedaling, so I thought I'd examine the bearings. I
managed to remove the pedals with a fixed wrench, and
then open the crankset with a pipe wrench. On the side
which do not carry the cogwheel I got loose a couple
of pieces smoothly, including the bearing.

Sounds like you have a three piece unit.
How did you get the crank arm off?

But on the
side with the cogwheel I can't get the bearing out the
corresponding way (because of the cogwheel). I can't
get it out on the other side because there is a metal
ring around the center that shrinks the hole as much
as to not let the bearing out that way either. And for
the same reason (the metal ring) I can't push the
whole pedal(less) bar out on the cogwheel side.

If it's a 3 piece unit you need a crank extractor to take off the right crank arm with tthe chainwheels on it. Once that crank arm is off you'll be able to slide the crank spindle out the left side.

I thought about either breaking the bearing and somehow
repair it while in place, either that or banging out
the metal ring from the other side with a hammer and a
screwdriver, only none of that seem like a good way to
do it. I'd be very thankful if you could help me find
a solution as this has frustrated me for some time
now...


NO! breaking the bearings is definitely NOT a good idea. Once the right crank arm is off the spindle will be free to move out the left side and that will give you access to the bearings on both the right side and the left side. Sounds like your bearings are in cages aka retainers.

A link to an image of the type of bottom bracket will let us help better.

Cheers

On 16/02/15 11:33, Emanuel Berg wrote:
writes:

the ring(s) thread

heat ring with propane torch wrench with
http://goo.gl/fgwVPY

I tried to grip it with the pipe wrench which is
adjustable as well but the grip area is so small,
width maybe 2 mm, so I couldn't get a grip.

I didn't consider heating. I don't have a propane
torch... can it be done without it?

More than likely yes it can be done without a propane torch. It is
unwise to take much of what this Avocado fellow says with more than a
grain of salt.

--
JS

writes:

read Brown's information and hyperlinks then read
... on Brown's photo you will see bearings held in
with a large washer on crank held onto the BB/frame
with a large chrome nut...

your description is a cup attached to BB/frame that
is not connected to the axle ?

It looks like the drawing downmost on the suggested
page: http://sheldonbrown.com/opc.html

It is basically a bent bar that I can't get out (or
the bearing in) because the metal ring blocks me from
removing the bar altogether, on the other side I can't
get the bearing in because the cog is there and though
loose cant be removed. The cog and general
architecture looks like in the drawing so yes, that's
it.

then this would probably thread onto the BB/frame.
that would need heat for removal, heat from a
propane torch.

OK, good to know so I won't waste time trying to get
it off other ways.

--
underground experts united