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#1
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism
simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re- lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks? -Rando |
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#2
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
On Oct 25, 3:53*pm, pdxrandonneur wrote:
My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re- lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks? * * -Rando Contact OnGuard. They're under the same parent company of Topeak, and I've had excellent warranty service from them. http://www.onguardlock.com/?page_id=13 |
#3
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
pdxrandonneur wrote:
My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re- lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks? Last year I talked to an On-Guard rep at Interbike and mentioned that I had a problem with the lighted key that came with the lock (the key part broke the first time I used it). He said to just send the lock back and they'd replace it. Not sure if it has a lifetime warranty or what, but they were pretty nice. |
#4
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
pdxrandonneur wrote:
My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re- lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks? Yes. Last week, my OnGuard Rottweiler 30mm armored cable refused to open. I sprayed in copious amounts of teflon dry lube, with no results. I sprayed in copious amounts of penetrating lube, with no results. I beat on the lock head with a hammer while holding the key in the turned position. Nope. I cursed Onguard thoroughly. I consulted the OnGuard website. By dicking around for a long time and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock - Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem: "We have found that despite our efforts to make the best locks in the industry, a small number of lock owners, particularly in beachside areas and areas where salt is used to condition icy roads, encounter trouble with our lock mechanism. Corrosion and dryness of the lock cylinder sometimes cause the locking mechanim to bind 90-degrees into the rotation of the key." In other words, "some people choose to lock their bikes outdoors, and our locks **** up when you do that." Neither sea salt nor road salt had any role in the failure of my lock in Austin, Texas. There's mo "There are several steps lock owners can take to prevent this. First, most of our locks come with a plastic cover to keep dirt and debris out of the locking mechanism. Keeping the cover closed at all times will greatly increase the reliable durability of the locking mechanism." Check. Didn't help. "Second, the locks are designed to drain water that enters the lock. As such, the water that goes through the lock can actually wash away the manufactuer's lubrication. If you feel your lock getting dry (it becomes harder and noisy to turn the key), use some light oil or lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts in the locking mechanism." That lock felt crunchy since it was brand spanking new. I reckoned it would eventually break in, rather than eventually locking me out of my own bike. But that wasn't the case. Here was the clue that finally allowed me to liberate my bike: "Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting the lock open to allow for further maintenance. Although we do not recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above- described problem. The procedure is as follows: 1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder 2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would normally start binding. 3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object) along the length of the crossbar. 4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key." A lot more flailing with the hammer, and more accurately directed flailing, at last persuaded the lock to let my bike go. I now have a single word analysis of my experience with OnGuard locks: FAIL. I would not recommend Onguard key locks to any self-respecting buyer. My Onguard lock never worked as smoothly as any other lock I have owned, and when it failed, it failed closed. Their "lock maintenance" advice looks to me like an admission of the problem and an indication that they do not intend to fix it. At the moment, my shop still carries OnGuard locks. Not for long! Chalo |
#5
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
On 26 Oct, 06:03, Chalo wrote:
pdxrandonneur wrote: My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re- lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks? Yes. *Last week, my OnGuard Rottweiler 30mm armored cable refused to open. *I sprayed in copious amounts of teflon dry lube, with no results. *I sprayed in copious amounts of penetrating lube, with no results. *I beat on the lock head with a hammer while holding the key in the turned position. *Nope. *I cursed Onguard thoroughly. I consulted the OnGuard website. *By dicking around for a long time and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock - Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem: "We have found that despite our efforts to make the best locks in the industry, a small number of lock owners, particularly in beachside areas and areas where salt is used to condition icy roads, encounter trouble with our lock mechanism. *Corrosion and dryness of the lock cylinder sometimes cause the locking mechanim to bind 90-degrees into the rotation of the key." In other words, "some people choose to lock their bikes outdoors, and our locks **** up when you do that." *Neither sea salt nor road salt had any role in the failure of my lock in Austin, Texas. *There's mo "There are several steps lock owners can take to prevent this. *First, most of our locks come with a plastic cover to keep dirt and debris out of the locking mechanism. *Keeping the cover closed at all times will greatly increase the reliable durability of the locking mechanism." Check. *Didn't help. "Second, the locks are designed to drain water that enters the lock. As such, the water that goes through the lock can actually wash away the manufactuer's lubrication. *If you feel your lock getting dry (it becomes harder and noisy to turn the key), use some light oil or lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts in the locking mechanism." That lock felt crunchy since it was brand spanking new. *I reckoned it would eventually break in, rather than eventually locking me out of my own bike. *But that wasn't the case. *Here was the clue that finally allowed me to liberate my bike: "Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting the lock open to allow for further maintenance. *Although we do not recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above- described problem. The procedure is as follows: 1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder 2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would normally start binding. 3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object) along the length of the crossbar. 4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key." A lot more flailing with the hammer, and more accurately directed flailing, at last persuaded the lock to let my bike go. *I now have a single word analysis of my experience with OnGuard locks: FAIL. I would not recommend Onguard key locks to any self-respecting buyer. My Onguard lock never worked as smoothly as any other lock I have owned, and when it failed, it failed closed. *Their "lock maintenance" advice looks to me like an admission of the problem and an indication that they do not intend to fix it. At the moment, my shop still carries OnGuard locks. *Not for long! Chalo Rather peculier that they refer to a liquid lubrication in a lock. The materials from which the lock are made should not bind. The only lubricant used should by dry, powdered graphite. No products containing wax or grease should come near the keyway and should be avoided near the bolt if possible. (except for mine ) I think that the pins/gates of the lock require cleaning of the oil/grease/wax which is causing the lock to jam which will become worse in cold weather. There is no excuse for using these wet lubricants in a lock. I suggest that locks which show signs of sticking are washed out repeatedly with solvent (not kerosene unless followed by naptha etc.) actuating the key/bolt repeatedly to displace the contaminants. When everthing runs free after drying out, then the mechanism may be lubricated with powdered graphite. Really, the lock needs disassembling to clean thoroughly, which is too much work. As regards to the plastic cap, don't these locks have spring loaded shutters? It's essential to reduce dust ingress in an outdoor lock. Without such a shutter the lock will be subjected to excessive wear if used frequently in a dusty environment, more so if it is oiled. |
#6
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
On Oct 26, 2:03*am, Chalo wrote:
pdxrandonneur wrote: My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re- lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks? Yes. *Last week, my OnGuard Rottweiler 30mm armored cable refused to open. *I sprayed in copious amounts of teflon dry lube, with no results. *I sprayed in copious amounts of penetrating lube, with no results. *I beat on the lock head with a hammer while holding the key in the turned position. *Nope. *I cursed Onguard thoroughly. I consulted the OnGuard website. *By dicking around for a long time and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock - Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem: "We have found that despite our efforts to make the best locks in the industry, a small number of lock owners, particularly in beachside areas and areas where salt is used to condition icy roads, encounter trouble with our lock mechanism. *Corrosion and dryness of the lock cylinder sometimes cause the locking mechanim to bind 90-degrees into the rotation of the key." In other words, "some people choose to lock their bikes outdoors, and our locks **** up when you do that." *Neither sea salt nor road salt had any role in the failure of my lock in Austin, Texas. *There's mo "There are several steps lock owners can take to prevent this. *First, most of our locks come with a plastic cover to keep dirt and debris out of the locking mechanism. *Keeping the cover closed at all times will greatly increase the reliable durability of the locking mechanism." Check. *Didn't help. "Second, the locks are designed to drain water that enters the lock. As such, the water that goes through the lock can actually wash away the manufactuer's lubrication. *If you feel your lock getting dry (it becomes harder and noisy to turn the key), use some light oil or lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts in the locking mechanism." That lock felt crunchy since it was brand spanking new. *I reckoned it would eventually break in, rather than eventually locking me out of my own bike. *But that wasn't the case. *Here was the clue that finally allowed me to liberate my bike: "Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting the lock open to allow for further maintenance. *Although we do not recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above- described problem. The procedure is as follows: 1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder 2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would normally start binding. 3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object) along the length of the crossbar. 4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key." A lot more flailing with the hammer, and more accurately directed flailing, at last persuaded the lock to let my bike go. *I now have a single word analysis of my experience with OnGuard locks: FAIL. I would not recommend Onguard key locks to any self-respecting buyer. My Onguard lock never worked as smoothly as any other lock I have owned, and when it failed, it failed closed. *Their "lock maintenance" advice looks to me like an admission of the problem and an indication that they do not intend to fix it. At the moment, my shop still carries OnGuard locks. *Not for long! Chalo Hmmm... I'm using the same lock as you (or maybe it's the next smaller one, not sure) I know that I'll be lubing it as soon as I get home... nate |
#7
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
On 26 Oct, 12:24, N8N wrote:
On Oct 26, 2:03*am, Chalo wrote: pdxrandonneur wrote: My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re- lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks? Yes. *Last week, my OnGuard Rottweiler 30mm armored cable refused to open. *I sprayed in copious amounts of teflon dry lube, with no results. *I sprayed in copious amounts of penetrating lube, with no results. *I beat on the lock head with a hammer while holding the key in the turned position. *Nope. *I cursed Onguard thoroughly. I consulted the OnGuard website. *By dicking around for a long time and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock - Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem: "We have found that despite our efforts to make the best locks in the industry, a small number of lock owners, particularly in beachside areas and areas where salt is used to condition icy roads, encounter trouble with our lock mechanism. *Corrosion and dryness of the lock cylinder sometimes cause the locking mechanim to bind 90-degrees into the rotation of the key." In other words, "some people choose to lock their bikes outdoors, and our locks **** up when you do that." *Neither sea salt nor road salt had any role in the failure of my lock in Austin, Texas. *There's mo "There are several steps lock owners can take to prevent this. *First, most of our locks come with a plastic cover to keep dirt and debris out of the locking mechanism. *Keeping the cover closed at all times will greatly increase the reliable durability of the locking mechanism." Check. *Didn't help. "Second, the locks are designed to drain water that enters the lock. As such, the water that goes through the lock can actually wash away the manufactuer's lubrication. *If you feel your lock getting dry (it becomes harder and noisy to turn the key), use some light oil or lubricant to reduce friction between moving parts in the locking mechanism." That lock felt crunchy since it was brand spanking new. *I reckoned it would eventually break in, rather than eventually locking me out of my own bike. *But that wasn't the case. *Here was the clue that finally allowed me to liberate my bike: "Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting the lock open to allow for further maintenance. *Although we do not recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above- described problem. The procedure is as follows: 1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder 2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would normally start binding. 3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object) along the length of the crossbar. 4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key." A lot more flailing with the hammer, and more accurately directed flailing, at last persuaded the lock to let my bike go. *I now have a single word analysis of my experience with OnGuard locks: FAIL. I would not recommend Onguard key locks to any self-respecting buyer. My Onguard lock never worked as smoothly as any other lock I have owned, and when it failed, it failed closed. *Their "lock maintenance" advice looks to me like an admission of the problem and an indication that they do not intend to fix it. At the moment, my shop still carries OnGuard locks. *Not for long! Chalo Hmmm... I'm using the same lock as you (or maybe it's the next smaller one, not sure) I know that I'll be lubing it as soon as I get home... Clean it with spirit, flood it as much as you can and shake to dissolve and disperse the contaminents. Repeat a couple of times at least until no contaminents are visible in the expelled spirit. Do not lube a lock unless it shows signs of sticking despite it being thoroughly cleaned of varnish, wax and grease. Graphite is the only official lubricant to use in poor locks. Alternatively you could test an oil in a domestic freezer to ensure it does not thicken/wax. You could use such an oil but the lock will tend to collect dust so increasing wear. This is not as bad as having a lock jam however. The jamming may also be caused by rusted springs with insufficient cleareance. I would think this is the reason OnGuard suggest oiling. There SHOULD be plating to prevent rust. Normal plating is indeed broken down if you use the lock within 400 yards of the sea. Special locks such as supplied by ship/boat chandlers should be used in this environment if a suitable bicycle lock cannot be found or thought of as disposable after a year. You may like to pay a locksmith to put in more durable springs/(treat exixting) as an alternative. |
#8
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
On Oct 25, 5:53*pm, pdxrandonneur wrote:
My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re- lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks? I've seen one On-guard with the same symptoms--but we assumed that the owner had somehow broken off part of a key in the lock--as we couldn't get any key to fully engage with the mechanism. I've had a mini- bulldog for years with no problems. The key engagement is a little sloppy feeling compared to the old round-key kryptos I used to use, but not a problem. I'd contact On-guard for a replacement--surely it's in their interest to have a look at your lock in the pursuit of quality control. |
#9
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
Chalo wrote:
I consulted the OnGuard website. By dicking around for a long time and clicking through - Support - Knowledge Base - OnGuard Lock - Lock Maintenance, I found this little gem: [...] "Finally, in situation where the lock does bind and users cannot get the lock open, we have discovered a technique that may help in getting the lock open to allow for further maintenance. Although we do not recommend that users rely on the following method, we have found a way to unlock most locks that are binding as a result of the above- described problem. The procedure is as follows: 1) insert the key in fully into the cylinder 2) turn it 90-degrees, right before the point where the key would normally start binding. 3) with the key in this position, sharply tap the lock with a firm object (we've used another lock, a small hammer, or similar object) along the length of the crossbar. 4) as you are tapping the lock, continue turning the key." Cool. They've explained how to bump their locks. |
#10
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On-Gaurd U-lock failure
On 26 Oct, 15:24, landotter wrote:
On Oct 25, 5:53*pm, pdxrandonneur wrote: My On-Gaurd Bulldog U-lock just quit on me, with the lock mechanism simply refusing to open. I soaked the lock in kerosene overnight, re- lubricated it and tried all five of the keys to no avail. Thankfully it wasn't locked to my bike when it did this. I have never had this happen with a U-lock (or any any other lock, for that matter). Has anyone else had this problem with On-Gaurd locks? I've seen one On-guard with the same symptoms--but we assumed that the owner had somehow broken off part of a key in the lock--as we couldn't get any key to fully engage with the mechanism. I've had a mini- bulldog for years with no problems. The key engagement is a little sloppy feeling compared to the old round-key kryptos I used to use, but not a problem. I'd contact On-guard for a replacement--surely it's in their interest to have a look at your lock in the pursuit of quality control. It's probably more in their intrest to have one of their locks on the street being seen to be used. It would be foolish to purchase another dodgy lock. But a free one may be worth a go and a little good publicity on the street for the distributer. |
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