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"mountain" and "road" pedals



 
 
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  #31  
Old October 15th 06, 10:24 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Mike
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Posts: 63
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals

In article , says...
Jim Higson wrote:
I'm thinking of just putting double-sided "mountain" type SPD
pedals on both bikes.

[...]
Will they cause any problems on the road bike?


No. From the looks and larger platform it offers Shimano's one
sided SPD pedal (PD-A520) might be worth a look...

No problems, agreed. But I would stick with double-sided.
Mike
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  #32  
Old October 15th 06, 10:45 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John Forrest Tomlinson
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Posts: 6,564
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals

On 15 Oct 2006 14:21:29 -0700, "Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman"
wrote:

John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
On 15 Oct 2006 13:43:27 -0700, "Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman"
wrote:

The real only advantage of clips and straps over clipless is lower cost
and maintenance.


It's easier to ride vigorously in street shoes or sneakers with clips
and straps.


More so than Powergrips?


I think so. You have experience with Powergrips whereas I've only
installed them and watched my wife use them but from what I've seen
they look OK, but not as good as clips and straps.

--
JT
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  #33  
Old October 15th 06, 11:20 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Andrew Lee
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Posts: 44
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals

wrote:
Ralph Hansell wrote:
I used to use MTB(SPD) pedals on all my bikes (Road, MTB, Touring)
until I started riding with a road group ride. We tend to get a little
competative on these rides sprinting town lines and racing to the top
of climbs. I had a few scary experiences with blowing out of my pedals
with my SPD pedals during town line sprints. SPD and MTP type pedals
tend to have less float and can release easier on the up-stroke than
road pedals.


How was the release force adjustment set? Also, the angle of the cleat
can be an issue, IME. Was the cleat worm?


I would say the angle of the cleat was probably what caused Ralph's pullout
problems. When I first got my SPD pedals (959), I installed the cleats
rotated so that the neutral position of the shoes was not straight back.
The pedals would release EVERY time I pulled back hard on the pedal, say
from a hard standing start in a relative high gear. In testing my setup, I
found that tightening the release tension just meant that the pedals didn't
release until I was pulling even harder, thus leading to more spectacular
blowouts (including one where my leg kicked out hard enough that I broke off
an underbar trigger shifter with my knee). Within a few days, I figured out
that readjusting the cleats so that they would be square against the pedal
when pulling back completely solved the problem, even allowing for wild
pulling. There is a bit of rotational float so I basically optimized the
angle of the cleat to avoid pullout. My foot alignment during the pedal
stroke is well within the rotational limits of that adjustment. I can see
how pull out would be a problem for those who might need a severe toe out
alignment.



  #34  
Old October 15th 06, 11:47 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
wvantwiller
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Posts: 77
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals

Mike wrote in
:

In article ,
says...
Jim Higson wrote:
I'm thinking of just putting double-sided "mountain" type SPD
pedals on both bikes.

[...]
Will they cause any problems on the road bike?


No. From the looks and larger platform it offers Shimano's one
sided SPD pedal (PD-A520) might be worth a look...

No problems, agreed. But I would stick with double-sided.
Mike


Got a pair of A520s to replace a pair of M520s. The wider platform was
more noticeably more comfortable without any practical problems from a
single-side pedal. The mass distribution usually has the 'upper' side
facing rearwards when there's no shoe attached, so it's no hassle to get
clipped in.
  #35  
Old October 16th 06, 03:56 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Smokey
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Posts: 180
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals


John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
On 15 Oct 2006 14:21:29 -0700, "Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman"
wrote:

John Forrest Tomlinson wrote:
On 15 Oct 2006 13:43:27 -0700, "Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman"
wrote:

The real only advantage of clips and straps over clipless is lower cost
and maintenance.

It's easier to ride vigorously in street shoes or sneakers with clips
and straps.


More so than Powergrips?


I think so. You have experience with Powergrips whereas I've only
installed them and watched my wife use them but from what I've seen
they look OK, but not as good as clips and straps.

--
JT
****************************

I've ridden quite a bit with Powergrips and if they are set up
correctly, you can pull back and up pretty vigorously without a
release. I still use them if I am going on a tour where I will be
walking a lot and want the comfort of regular walking shoes. Otherwise
I use Time ATACs with SPD type shoes.

Smokey

  #36  
Old October 16th 06, 05:47 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
* * Chas
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Posts: 1,839
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals


wrote in message
ups.com...

* * Chas wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...

landotter wrote:
Lou Holtman wrote:
Ralph Hansell wrote:
I used to use MTB(SPD) pedals on all my bikes (Road, MTB,

Touring)
until I started riding with a road group ride. We tend to

get a
little
competative on these rides sprinting town lines and racing

to
the top
of climbs. I had a few scary experiences with blowing out of

my
pedals
with my SPD pedals during town line sprints. SPD and MTP

type
pedals
tend to have less float and can release easier on the

up-stroke
than
road pedals. After nearly going down at 25mph+ on a sprint I

decided to
get some road shoes and LOOK pedals. Since then I have never

had
an
issue with blowing out.

I don't agree.

Lou
--


seconded. That sounds like a big ole smear of brown roadie

BS.Tighten
them down nicely and most spds will grip as well as any mere

mortal
will ever need. Unless you have special needs knees, don't ****

away
your money on special needs pedals. The basic Shimanos, or even

Wellgo
800s ($40), or the house branded Wellgos like Nashbar are great.

Cleats
are ubiquitous and inexpensive as well.

Racer wannabes don't like dual-sided SPDs because they are "for
mountain bikes" and because sponsored pros don't use them (not
realizing that sponsored pros ride whatever the sponsor supplies).
Watching recreational cyclists struggling to clip in to a

one-sided
pedal and struggling to walk on big, slippery exposed cleats is a
source of amusement.


How much faster are today's top pros than the iron men who raced for

the
previous 100 year before clipless pedals came out?

It's the motor not the machine.



....and yer point is?


My point was an editorial comment aimed at several posters in this
thread who inferred that there was/is no cycling without clipless
pedals.

I just started riding again this spring after a 5 year hiatus.

I would like to try modern clipless pedals but I haven't been able to
find shoes that fit me. I'd use my old Cinelli clipless track pedals if
I were doing a long ride with out a lot of stop signs/lights - they are
hard to get in and out of. I still have a comfortable old pair of Ditto
knockoffs with Cinelli cleats screwed onto them.

As I see it, the real advantage of clipless pedals is the freedom from
being tightly strapped into the pedals with uncomfortable pressure
across the feet from the toeclip straps.

I'm using a 30 year old pair of Adidas Eddie Merckx shoes. I had to have
the soles reglued but otherwise they still work well even though they
have 10,000 to 15,000 miles on them. I also dug out a pair of
Specialized Touring shoes that I'd never used from the same era.

Chas.




  #37  
Old October 16th 06, 05:49 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
* * Chas
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Posts: 1,839
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals


"John Forrest Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
On 15 Oct 2006 13:43:27 -0700, "Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman"
wrote:

The real only advantage of clips and straps over clipless is lower

cost
and maintenance.


It's easier to ride vigorously in street shoes or sneakers with clips
and straps.
--
JT
****************************
Remove "remove" to reply
Visit http://www.jt10000.com
****************************



  #38  
Old October 16th 06, 06:01 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
* * Chas
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,839
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals


"John Forrest Tomlinson" wrote in message
...
On 15 Oct 2006 13:43:27 -0700, "Johnny Sunset aka Tom Sherman"
wrote:

The real only advantage of clips and straps over clipless is lower

cost
and maintenance.


It's easier to ride vigorously in street shoes or sneakers with clips
and straps.
--
JT


I've been riding with toeclips and straps for over 35 years and I agree,
you can use just about any shoes with them. We used to cut the front
cleats off of soccer shoes for cyclocross and MTB.

I'm not opposed to clipless and I like to try some. I just don't want
spend $200-$300 for shoes just to see if they will work for me.

Chas.


  #39  
Old October 16th 06, 06:59 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Michael Press
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Posts: 1,100
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals

In article
,
"* * Chas" wrote:

I still ride with toe clips because I haven't found any clipless shoes
that comfortably fit my size 10 1/2 EEEE feet (size 44-45 ultra wide)!


I had trouble fitting the width of my feet until I
started buying longer shoes; longer than the nominal
length of my feet. Suddenly the width problem
disappeared. I eventually was told that my feet are
10*1/2 from heel to arch, though they are nominal
9*1/2*E* overall. From arch to toes my feet are wider
and shorter than the `norm', though the sheer numbers
of people who have trouble fitting width suggest that
shoe manufacturers deliberately make shoes narrower
than they should. A shoe that fits too narrowly at the
metatarsal arch will wear out more quickly by bursting
the upper and tearing out of the welt.

--
Michael Press
  #40  
Old October 16th 06, 09:57 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
* * Chas
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,839
Default "mountain" and "road" pedals


"Michael Press" wrote in message
...
In article
,
"* * Chas" wrote:

I still ride with toe clips because I haven't found any clipless

shoes
that comfortably fit my size 10 1/2 EEEE feet (size 44-45 ultra

wide)!

I had trouble fitting the width of my feet until I
started buying longer shoes; longer than the nominal
length of my feet. Suddenly the width problem
disappeared. I eventually was told that my feet are
10 1/2 from heel to arch, though they are nominal
9 1/2 E* overall. From arch to toes my feet are wider
and shorter than the `norm', though the sheer numbers
of people who have trouble fitting width suggest that
shoe manufacturers deliberately make shoes narrower
than they should. A shoe that fits too narrowly at the
metatarsal arch will wear out more quickly by bursting
the upper and tearing out of the welt.

--
Michael Press


I have the same kind of feet. Great for swimming but tough to find shoes
that fit. When I was in my teens I wore size 12 1/2 or 13 E shoes for
the same reason. As I got older and could afford better quality shoes I
could get size 11 E that fit. My feet have gradually gotten shorter and
wider while my high arch has remained the same.

I found that with cycling shoes that are too long, they eventually
stretch from the back and forth stresses of pedaling and I start to get
heal blisters or they start to dig into the tops of my toes from flexing
while walking. I tried on several pairs of Shimano clipless shoes (45 &
46) that were to long they had both problems.

I still have 3 pairs of old fashioned cycling shoes left. When they wear
out I'll have to bite the bullet.

Chas.


 




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