help truing new wheel

Carl Sundquist wrote:
wrote in message
...
I just built a new rear wheel. It's a 32-spoke 700C. I got it true
and round, except for a slight "hop" near the seam, and I'm not sure
how to remove it. Anybody have any suggestions about how to remove
such a "hop"?

Thanks!

700C? What's that? It's an obsolete term. I know that because Tom Sherman
said so.


At least some people learn.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
“Mary had a little lamb / And when she saw it sicken /
She shipped it off to Packingtown / And now it’s labeled chicken.”

"Tom Sherman" wrote in message
...
Carl Sundquist wrote:
wrote in message
...
I just built a new rear wheel. It's a 32-spoke 700C. I got it true
and round, except for a slight "hop" near the seam, and I'm not sure
how to remove it. Anybody have any suggestions about how to remove
such a "hop"?

Thanks!

700C? What's that? It's an obsolete term. I know that because Tom Sherman
said so.
At least some people learn.


Why would you want to insult Retroguybilly like that?

Carl Sundquist wrote:
"Tom Sherman" wrote in message
...
Carl Sundquist wrote:
wrote in message
...
I just built a new rear wheel. It's a 32-spoke 700C. I got it true
and round, except for a slight "hop" near the seam, and I'm not sure
how to remove it. Anybody have any suggestions about how to remove
such a "hop"?

Thanks!
700C? What's that? It's an obsolete term. I know that because Tom Sherman
said so.
At least some people learn.


Why would you want to insult Retroguybilly like that?


If it saves him from damnation by the great God ISO [1], yes.

[1] http://www.iso.org/iso/home.htm.

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
“Mary had a little lamb / And when she saw it sicken /
She shipped it off to Packingtown / And now it’s labeled chicken.”

1. It was pretty easy to get the tire on the rim by hand after
squirting the bead down with silicone spray.

2. So if I did loosen all the spokes and re-true in order to try to
get rid of the hop, what should I do differently when truing the wheel
back up?

wrote:
So if I did loosen all the spokes and re-true in order to try to
get rid of the hop, what should I do differently when truing the wheel
back up?

If the rim bulges outward, then tighten those spokes more... if inward
(toward the hub) loosen them.

Get the rim radially true with low tension, and maintain this as you
increase the tension.

The ever observant and flawless Jobst Brandt writes:

I find it takes an insensitive klutz to pinch tubes
while installing. I've seen it done and winced at the
experience

You're a space alien aren't you Jobst? We're only mere Earthlings. My
gosh, even Spock eventually developed a tolerance for our seemingly
natural stupidity.
But since you brought up your non-bicycle tire changing prowess I have
to ask. Have you ever mounted a 6 ply Barum knobby with tube, on a
motorcycle rear wheel with 2 bead locks?

just regards - Mike Baldwin

Ben C. wrote: "if you can get the bead down into the rim well on the
far side you have a little bit more room to hook the last bit over."

I do not believe this is correct. Both the geometry of the tire beads
and rim, as well as my own experience, indicate to me that it is
easier to get the second bead to go over the rim if the first bead is
moved as near as possible toward the second bead; i.e., toward you,
not away from you toward the opposite rim well.

wrote:
Ben C. wrote: "if you can get the bead down into the rim well on the
far side you have a little bit more room to hook the last bit over."

I do not believe this is correct. Both the geometry of the tire beads
and rim, as well as my own experience, indicate to me that it is
easier to get the second bead to go over the rim if the first bead is
moved as near as possible toward the second bead; i.e., toward you,
not away from you toward the opposite rim well.

ben's "rim well" is the indent between the two hook beads. the well is
the point of minimum rim diameter, thus affording the maximum
differential room for fitting the tire bead. /that/ is where the beads
need to be. amazingly, some rim manufacturers don't seem to consider
such a feature to be important, hence their rims can be pigs to work with.

On Sun, 07 Sep 2008 16:59:39 -0500, Ben C wrote:

There are some tyres I can't get on without levers and, being a klutz, I
have also punctured them with the levers. This is particularly
frustrating and begs the question how are you going to get the tyre back
on after you take it off to fix the puncture you just caused.

Some tyre/rim combinations are just downright mean. I had the devil's
own job getting Vittoria 700x23c tyres onto the Campagnolo wheels of
my road bike.

Being fed up with having sore hands for a week after every puncture
repair, I finally invested in two tools:

A Var tyre-lever for on the road:

http://www.vartools.com/fr/fiche_produit.php?id=511&shop=&pro=

and a Koolstop bead jack for the workshop:

http://www.koolstop.com/Accessories/index.php#Anchor-without-3800

Both of them work by pulling up on the tyre bead from an anchor point
on the other side of the rim, so there is no risk of pinching the
tube, which could happen if you try to use traditional levers to force
a recalcitrant tyre back on.

On 2008-09-09, jim beam wrote:
wrote:
Ben C. wrote: "if you can get the bead down into the rim well on the
far side you have a little bit more room to hook the last bit over."

I do not believe this is correct. Both the geometry of the tire beads
and rim, as well as my own experience, indicate to me that it is
easier to get the second bead to go over the rim if the first bead is
moved as near as possible toward the second bead; i.e., toward you,
not away from you toward the opposite rim well.

ben's "rim well" is the indent between the two hook beads.

Yes, and by "far side" I meant 12 o'clock if you're trying to hook the
last bit of the tyre onto the rim at 6 o'clock.

I meant to say the same thing as retroguybilly-- the first bead should
be as close to the centreline of the rim as you can get it.