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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
I'm looking for a good wireless speedo/odometer/cadence meter with a
pickup that mounts on the chainstay or seat stay. I don't need an expensive super fancy over complicated device. Something under $50 USD would be good price range. Any suggestions? Chas. |
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#2
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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
In article
, "* * Chas" wrote: I'm looking for a good wireless speedo/odometer/cadence meter with a pickup that mounts on the chainstay or seat stay. I don't need an expensive super fancy over complicated device. Something under $50 USD would be good price range. Any suggestions? Good and wireless are disjoint sets. I would mail you my wireless for free, but it does not have the cadence system. The maximum speed is always 90+ km/hr. The time and distance appear realistic, but who knows? Thanks for reminding me, I will get a Cateye Mity 8 wired system in the next week or so. -- Michael Press |
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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
* * Chas wrote: I'm looking for a good wireless speedo/odometer/cadence meter with a pickup that mounts on the chainstay or seat stay. I don't need an expensive super fancy over complicated device. Something under $50 USD would be good price range. Any suggestions? Chas. My experience leads me to concur with Michael. I got a Filzer dB4LW-C with wireless wheel sensor, wired cadence, and the receiver in the display is way too sensitive, picks up vehicle ignitions or other digital devices. Have an Axiom A08C, all wired, with momentary cadence, about 600 miles on city streets, still works fine, 2d cell, 3d magnet switch. I took the Filzer apart and removed the antenna, now the cadence works OK at least. It has momentary and average cadence, low 60s is my usual over a ten mile ride. I might have seen an all wired job that had momentary, average, and max cadence beside the usual speedo/odo stuff last week, think it was $70. |
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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
"* * Chas" wrote in
: I'm looking for a good wireless speedo/odometer/cadence meter with a pickup that mounts on the chainstay or seat stay. I don't need an expensive super fancy over complicated device. Something under $50 USD would be good price range. Any suggestions? Chas. What they said. (Forget wireless.) The wireless systems always seem to be temperamental, the sensors are HUGE and of course there's another battery to worry about. Another plus to a wired system is that you will get more computer for your money than what you would get by paying for the wireless feature. I have two bikes with computers wired for both speed and cadence. The wires, as well as both speed sensors, are "glued" to the frame using silicone. The wires and sensors were held in place and the frame masked with blue painter's tape prior to placing on the silicone bead. After the silicone set, the masking tape was removed to provide a clean edge. (Some smoothing of the edge is required before the silicone completely dries.) I find this to be superior to the use of clear tape that some people recommend and a VAST improvement over the nylon cable ties that come with the computers. The older bike has an (impossible to find now) TTT stem that has a hole specifically designed to route the computer wires down the headtube. The newer bike doesn't even have enough clearance between the tire and the top of the fork to snake the wire past - even if modern stem designs allowed for that. So for the new bike, the speed sensor wire is routed down the front brake cable housing and both are contained in nylon weave tubing (http://cableorganizer.com/images/ben...do-pt-plus.jpg) that matches the cable housing color (in my case - black.) The cadence wire was also enclosed with the nylon weave together with the front derailleur cable housing until it got to the downtube. At that point the wire exits the weave and is routed along the bottom of the downtube. The installation took two of us several hours to complete - but the results are well work the effort. The installation is even more unobtrusive than a wireless system because the sensors are MUCH smaller. And the old wire harness has been on the bike for about 20 years. I've replaced the computer a few times, but since all wired computers use the same simple reed switch for a sensor, I've always been able to connect the old harness to the new computer (with a minor issue of cutting and soldering the wires.) If anyone is interested, I can take some photos of the details and post them on the Web. Cheers, David |
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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 07:47:52 GMT, Michael Press wrote:
In article , "* * Chas" wrote: I'm looking for a good wireless speedo/odometer/cadence meter with a pickup that mounts on the chainstay or seat stay. I don't need an expensive super fancy over complicated device. Something under $50 USD would be good price range. Good and wireless are disjoint sets. I would mail you my wireless for free, but it does not have the cadence system. The maximum speed is always 90+ km/hr. The time and distance appear realistic, but who knows? Thanks for reminding me, I will get a Cateye Mity 8 wired system in the next week or so. I'll toss my hat in the ring for a Cateye as well. Mine's the Astrale, which is basically the same thing as a Mity but with cadence sensor, and the speed also in rear. I did have problems with wire length originally, but after I lost the first one and bought a new one, I spliced the wiring harnesses together and now I have one that works perfectly on my oversized bike. Jasper |
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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 13:29:57 -0600, Solvang Cyclist
wrote: I have two bikes with computers wired for both speed and cadence. The wires, as well as both speed sensors, are "glued" to the frame using silicone. The wires and sensors were held in place and the frame masked with blue painter's tape prior to placing on the silicone bead. After the silicone set, the masking tape was removed to provide a clean edge. (Some smoothing of the edge is required before the silicone completely dries.) I find this to be superior to the use of clear tape that some people recommend and a VAST improvement over the nylon cable ties that come with the computers. Just next time buy a bike whose frame is painted black; on the sensors in particular, black cable ties on black frame are much sturdier and just as invisible (ie, not very). You've still got a point for the cable routing, though. Jasper |
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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 13:29:57 -0600, Solvang Cyclist
wrote: I've replaced the computer a few times, but since all wired computers use the same simple reed switch for a sensor, I've always been able to connect the old harness to the new computer (with a minor issue of cutting and soldering the wires.) My experience with cutting and soldering the Cateye sensor wires (I spliced two harnesses together for length) was that it was pretty hard. The wires they use don't take solder very well. I definitely wouldn't want to be doing it while the whole thing was attached to a complete bike, with the ends shortening each time you do it. If you do, of course, more power to ya. Also: If you route along the cables and expect to never loosen that, you're not going to be able to replace the cables either -- and with speed and cadence going to two completely different places over different cables, it might be difficult to unwind the thing from the mount without desoldering wires. Jasper |
#8
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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
In article
, Jasper Janssen wrote: On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 13:29:57 -0600, Solvang Cyclist wrote: I've replaced the computer a few times, but since all wired computers use the same simple reed switch for a sensor, I've always been able to connect the old harness to the new computer (with a minor issue of cutting and soldering the wires.) My experience with cutting and soldering the Cateye sensor wires (I spliced two harnesses together for length) was that it was pretty hard. The wires they use don't take solder very well. I definitely wouldn't want to be doing it while the whole thing was attached to a complete bike, with the ends shortening each time you do it. If you do, of course, more power to ya. Also: If you route along the cables and expect to never loosen that, you're not going to be able to replace the cables either -- and with speed and cadence going to two completely different places over different cables, it might be difficult to unwind the thing from the mount without desoldering wires. Do not need to solder the wires. Use the Western Union splice. http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14176/css/14176_46.htm -- Michael Press |
#9
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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
Michael Press wrote in news:jack-AF1396.19544512112006
@newsclstr02.news.prodigy.com: Do not need to solder the wires. Use the Western Union splice. That's actually the splice I do, but then I cover the results with solder (a little extra flux makes the soldering easier) and heat shrink tubing. Of course, since the wires on the old bike have any excess stuffed in the headtube, there's room to work. For the new one, the wires are wrapped under the handlebar tape and therefore the splices will need to be as thin as possible (if and when I need to change computers on it.) Cheers, David |
#10
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Good wireless speedo/cadence meter
On Mon, 13 Nov 2006 03:54:43 GMT, Michael Press wrote:
cateye sensor wires Do not need to solder the wires. Use the Western Union splice. http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14176/css/14176_46.htm You've obviously never tried this with cateye sensor wire. Western union splices are only mechanically strong if it's *wire*, rather than cable. The cateye stuff is highly flexible, not single-copper-wire. Also, I doubt it's that great an electrical connection without some serious environmental shielding, that might be harder on a bike than on a telegraph pole. I used pretty close to the WU splice, plus solder. Staggered ones, no less. Jasper |
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