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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock



 
 
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  #71  
Old December 13th 17, 02:48 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,697
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

AMuzi wrote:

Alcohol will work much better than
boiling water.


That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between
room temperature and severe cold just from
normal condensation. Lube it.


Today I tried Sonax, which according to the
sticker is exactly what one should use in this
situation. It said it was inflammable -
probably alcohol in some variety.

Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand
worked two times.

But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the
situation will just reoccur that way.

No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole,
and a lid on the lock itself.


Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil
and then use it dry in the cold months.

One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little
chance of rain :-)
--
Cheers,

John B.

Ads
  #72  
Old December 13th 17, 03:46 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

AMuzi wrote:

Alcohol will work much better than
boiling water.

That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between
room temperature and severe cold just from
normal condensation. Lube it.


Today I tried Sonax, which according to the
sticker is exactly what one should use in this
situation. It said it was inflammable -
probably alcohol in some variety.

Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand
worked two times.

But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the
situation will just reoccur that way.

No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole,
and a lid on the lock itself.


Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil
and then use it dry in the cold months.

One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little
chance of rain :-)


I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that
makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a
bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to
lock the bike outside.

Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder?
It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain
pill bottles.

Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig
up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen
bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it
in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too
long, or you might anneal the metal.


--
- Frank Krygowski
  #73  
Old December 13th 17, 06:52 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,697
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

AMuzi wrote:

Alcohol will work much better than
boiling water.

That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between
room temperature and severe cold just from
normal condensation. Lube it.

Today I tried Sonax, which according to the
sticker is exactly what one should use in this
situation. It said it was inflammable -
probably alcohol in some variety.

Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand
worked two times.

But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the
situation will just reoccur that way.

No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole,
and a lid on the lock itself.


Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil
and then use it dry in the cold months.

One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little
chance of rain :-)


I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that
makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a
bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to
lock the bike outside.


I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little
squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks
with.

Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more"
:-)


Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder?
It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain
pill bottles.

Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig
up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen
bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it
in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too
long, or you might anneal the metal.



--
Cheers,

John B.

  #74  
Old December 13th 17, 06:55 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

John B. wrote:

Try rinsing with alcohol or some other
solvent to remove all the oil and then use it
dry in the cold months.


OK, why not.

One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees
(C) there is little chance of rain :-)


Now its -5.2 but it happens it is around 0 in
the day (wet snow) and then a couple of degrees
below zero in the night.

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #75  
Old December 13th 17, 10:49 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Sir Ridesalot
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,270
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

AMuzi wrote:

Alcohol will work much better than
boiling water.

That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between
room temperature and severe cold just from
normal condensation. Lube it.

Today I tried Sonax, which according to the
sticker is exactly what one should use in this
situation. It said it was inflammable -
probably alcohol in some variety.

Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand
worked two times.

But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the
situation will just reoccur that way.

No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole,
and a lid on the lock itself.

Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil
and then use it dry in the cold months.

One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little
chance of rain :-)


I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that
makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a
bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to
lock the bike outside.


I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little
squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks
with.

Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more"
:-)


Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder?
It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain
pill bottles.

Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig
up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen
bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it
in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too
long, or you might anneal the metal.



--
Cheers,

John B.


Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A auto-mechanic usedto use.

Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent for lubricating metal zippers.

Cheers
  #76  
Old December 13th 17, 01:49 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Emanuel Berg[_2_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,035
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

Today I tried another product into the keyhole,
namely RAND "R 022 Synthetic Lock Oil",
inflammable as well, but unlike the Sonax, this
had the familiar "explosive" bubbly effect that
has CRC 5-56 and WD-40 - and the lock feels
extreamly smooth indeed - but because today it
is only 0.6°C conclusions are inconclusive
at best...

--
underground experts united
http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573
  #77  
Old December 13th 17, 03:46 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Radey Shouman
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,747
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

Sir Ridesalot writes:

On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

AMuzi wrote:

Alcohol will work much better than
boiling water.

That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between
room temperature and severe cold just from
normal condensation. Lube it.

Today I tried Sonax, which according to the
sticker is exactly what one should use in this
situation. It said it was inflammable -
probably alcohol in some variety.

Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand
worked two times.

But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the
situation will just reoccur that way.

No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole,
and a lid on the lock itself.

Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil
and then use it dry in the cold months.

One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little
chance of rain :-)

I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that
makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a
bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to
lock the bike outside.


I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little
squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks
with.

Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more"
:-)


Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder?
It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain
pill bottles.

Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig
up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen
bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it
in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too
long, or you might anneal the metal.



--
Cheers,

John B.


Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A
auto-mechanic usedto use.


Talk about premature nostalgia. I bought a squeeze bottle of powdered
graphite about a month ago.

Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the
graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent
for lubricating metal zippers.


It's great for zippers in all black clothing. Back in the days of hand
drafting you could get as much as you wanted (or more) by emptying your
drafting lead sharpener. I gather the old fashioned cast iron ones
really are nostalgia items now:

http://forgottenartsupplies.com/?wha...ts&image_id=88

--
  #78  
Old December 13th 17, 06:02 PM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Frank Krygowski[_4_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 10,538
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

On 12/13/2017 9:46 AM, Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes:

On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

AMuzi wrote:

Alcohol will work much better than
boiling water.

That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between
room temperature and severe cold just from
normal condensation. Lube it.

Today I tried Sonax, which according to the
sticker is exactly what one should use in this
situation. It said it was inflammable -
probably alcohol in some variety.

Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand
worked two times.

But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the
situation will just reoccur that way.

No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole,
and a lid on the lock itself.

Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil
and then use it dry in the cold months.

One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little
chance of rain :-)

I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that
makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a
bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to
lock the bike outside.


I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little
squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks
with.

Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more"
:-)


Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder?
It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain
pill bottles.

Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig
up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen
bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it
in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too
long, or you might anneal the metal.


--
Cheers,

John B.


Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A
auto-mechanic usedto use.


Talk about premature nostalgia. I bought a squeeze bottle of powdered
graphite about a month ago.

Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the
graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent
for lubricating metal zippers.


It's great for zippers in all black clothing. Back in the days of hand
drafting you could get as much as you wanted (or more) by emptying your
drafting lead sharpener. I gather the old fashioned cast iron ones
really are nostalgia items now:

http://forgottenartsupplies.com/?wha...ts&image_id=88


I still use one to sharpen the cursor for my 3-d drafting software.

--
- Frank Krygowski
  #79  
Old December 14th 17, 03:28 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
John B.[_3_]
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 5,697
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 09:46:40 -0500, Radey Shouman
wrote:

Sir Ridesalot writes:

On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

AMuzi wrote:

Alcohol will work much better than
boiling water.

That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between
room temperature and severe cold just from
normal condensation. Lube it.

Today I tried Sonax, which according to the
sticker is exactly what one should use in this
situation. It said it was inflammable -
probably alcohol in some variety.

Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand
worked two times.

But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the
situation will just reoccur that way.

No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole,
and a lid on the lock itself.

Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil
and then use it dry in the cold months.

One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little
chance of rain :-)

I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that
makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a
bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to
lock the bike outside.


I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little
squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks
with.

Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more"
:-)


Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder?
It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain
pill bottles.

Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig
up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen
bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it
in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too
long, or you might anneal the metal.


--
Cheers,

John B.


Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A
auto-mechanic usedto use.


Talk about premature nostalgia. I bought a squeeze bottle of powdered
graphite about a month ago.


Did you? what sort of shop?

Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the
graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent
for lubricating metal zippers.


It's great for zippers in all black clothing. Back in the days of hand
drafting you could get as much as you wanted (or more) by emptying your
drafting lead sharpener. I gather the old fashioned cast iron ones
really are nostalgia items now:

http://forgottenartsupplies.com/?wha...ts&image_id=88


When you think about it the changeover to "plastic stuff" was largely
influenced by price, not usability. A little flimsy pencil sharpener
with wobbly crank knob and dull blades really wasn't better then a
"proper" cast iron sharpener with a good strong crank - last a
generation or two.

But it sure was cheaper.
--
Cheers,

John B.

  #80  
Old December 14th 17, 04:22 AM posted to rec.bicycles.tech
Radey Shouman
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,747
Default BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock

John B. writes:

On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 09:46:40 -0500, Radey Shouman
wrote:

Sir Ridesalot writes:

On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote:

On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote:

AMuzi wrote:

Alcohol will work much better than
boiling water.

That's right

Any lock will have troubles moving between
room temperature and severe cold just from
normal condensation. Lube it.

Today I tried Sonax, which according to the
sticker is exactly what one should use in this
situation. It said it was inflammable -
probably alcohol in some variety.

Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand
worked two times.

But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the
situation will just reoccur that way.

No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole,
and a lid on the lock itself.

Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil
and then use it dry in the cold months.

One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little
chance of rain :-)

I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that
makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a
bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to
lock the bike outside.


I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little
squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks
with.

Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more"
:-)


Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder?
It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain
pill bottles.

Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig
up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen
bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it
in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too
long, or you might anneal the metal.


--
Cheers,

John B.

Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A
auto-mechanic usedto use.


Talk about premature nostalgia. I bought a squeeze bottle of powdered
graphite about a month ago.


Did you? what sort of shop?


I think it was Home Depot -- a national chain of "home improvement"
stores. Hardware stores carry them too.

Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the
graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent
for lubricating metal zippers.


It's great for zippers in all black clothing. Back in the days of hand
drafting you could get as much as you wanted (or more) by emptying your
drafting lead sharpener. I gather the old fashioned cast iron ones
really are nostalgia items now:

http://forgottenartsupplies.com/?wha...ts&image_id=88


When you think about it the changeover to "plastic stuff" was largely
influenced by price, not usability. A little flimsy pencil sharpener
with wobbly crank knob and dull blades really wasn't better then a
"proper" cast iron sharpener with a good strong crank - last a
generation or two.


The cast iron sharpeners worked well and lasted forever. Didn't really
have a "crank", though, you just turned it with the inserted drafting
pencil.

But it sure was cheaper.
--
Cheers,

John B.


--
 




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