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#71
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg
wrote: AMuzi wrote: Alcohol will work much better than boiling water. That's right Any lock will have troubles moving between room temperature and severe cold just from normal condensation. Lube it. Today I tried Sonax, which according to the sticker is exactly what one should use in this situation. It said it was inflammable - probably alcohol in some variety. Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand worked two times. But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the situation will just reoccur that way. No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole, and a lid on the lock itself. Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil and then use it dry in the cold months. One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little chance of rain :-) -- Cheers, John B. |
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#72
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote:
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote: AMuzi wrote: Alcohol will work much better than boiling water. That's right Any lock will have troubles moving between room temperature and severe cold just from normal condensation. Lube it. Today I tried Sonax, which according to the sticker is exactly what one should use in this situation. It said it was inflammable - probably alcohol in some variety. Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand worked two times. But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the situation will just reoccur that way. No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole, and a lid on the lock itself. Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil and then use it dry in the cold months. One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little chance of rain :-) I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to lock the bike outside. Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder? It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain pill bottles. Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you might anneal the metal. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#73
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski
wrote: On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote: On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote: AMuzi wrote: Alcohol will work much better than boiling water. That's right Any lock will have troubles moving between room temperature and severe cold just from normal condensation. Lube it. Today I tried Sonax, which according to the sticker is exactly what one should use in this situation. It said it was inflammable - probably alcohol in some variety. Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand worked two times. But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the situation will just reoccur that way. No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole, and a lid on the lock itself. Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil and then use it dry in the cold months. One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little chance of rain :-) I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to lock the bike outside. I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks with. Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more" :-) Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder? It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain pill bottles. Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you might anneal the metal. -- Cheers, John B. |
#74
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
John B. wrote:
Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil and then use it dry in the cold months. OK, why not. One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little chance of rain :-) Now its -5.2 but it happens it is around 0 in the day (wet snow) and then a couple of degrees below zero in the night. -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#75
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote:
On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote: On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote: AMuzi wrote: Alcohol will work much better than boiling water. That's right Any lock will have troubles moving between room temperature and severe cold just from normal condensation. Lube it. Today I tried Sonax, which according to the sticker is exactly what one should use in this situation. It said it was inflammable - probably alcohol in some variety. Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand worked two times. But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the situation will just reoccur that way. No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole, and a lid on the lock itself. Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil and then use it dry in the cold months. One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little chance of rain :-) I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to lock the bike outside. I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks with. Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more" :-) Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder? It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain pill bottles. Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you might anneal the metal. -- Cheers, John B. Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A auto-mechanic usedto use. Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent for lubricating metal zippers. Cheers |
#76
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
Today I tried another product into the keyhole,
namely RAND "R 022 Synthetic Lock Oil", inflammable as well, but unlike the Sonax, this had the familiar "explosive" bubbly effect that has CRC 5-56 and WD-40 - and the lock feels extreamly smooth indeed - but because today it is only 0.6°C conclusions are inconclusive at best... -- underground experts united http://user.it.uu.se/~embe8573 |
#77
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
Sir Ridesalot writes:
On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote: On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote: On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote: AMuzi wrote: Alcohol will work much better than boiling water. That's right Any lock will have troubles moving between room temperature and severe cold just from normal condensation. Lube it. Today I tried Sonax, which according to the sticker is exactly what one should use in this situation. It said it was inflammable - probably alcohol in some variety. Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand worked two times. But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the situation will just reoccur that way. No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole, and a lid on the lock itself. Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil and then use it dry in the cold months. One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little chance of rain :-) I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to lock the bike outside. I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks with. Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more" :-) Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder? It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain pill bottles. Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you might anneal the metal. -- Cheers, John B. Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A auto-mechanic usedto use. Talk about premature nostalgia. I bought a squeeze bottle of powdered graphite about a month ago. Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent for lubricating metal zippers. It's great for zippers in all black clothing. Back in the days of hand drafting you could get as much as you wanted (or more) by emptying your drafting lead sharpener. I gather the old fashioned cast iron ones really are nostalgia items now: http://forgottenartsupplies.com/?wha...ts&image_id=88 -- |
#78
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
On 12/13/2017 9:46 AM, Radey Shouman wrote:
Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote: On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote: On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote: AMuzi wrote: Alcohol will work much better than boiling water. That's right Any lock will have troubles moving between room temperature and severe cold just from normal condensation. Lube it. Today I tried Sonax, which according to the sticker is exactly what one should use in this situation. It said it was inflammable - probably alcohol in some variety. Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand worked two times. But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the situation will just reoccur that way. No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole, and a lid on the lock itself. Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil and then use it dry in the cold months. One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little chance of rain :-) I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to lock the bike outside. I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks with. Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more" :-) Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder? It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain pill bottles. Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you might anneal the metal. -- Cheers, John B. Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A auto-mechanic usedto use. Talk about premature nostalgia. I bought a squeeze bottle of powdered graphite about a month ago. Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent for lubricating metal zippers. It's great for zippers in all black clothing. Back in the days of hand drafting you could get as much as you wanted (or more) by emptying your drafting lead sharpener. I gather the old fashioned cast iron ones really are nostalgia items now: http://forgottenartsupplies.com/?wha...ts&image_id=88 I still use one to sharpen the cursor for my 3-d drafting software. -- - Frank Krygowski |
#79
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 09:46:40 -0500, Radey Shouman
wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote: On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote: On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote: AMuzi wrote: Alcohol will work much better than boiling water. That's right Any lock will have troubles moving between room temperature and severe cold just from normal condensation. Lube it. Today I tried Sonax, which according to the sticker is exactly what one should use in this situation. It said it was inflammable - probably alcohol in some variety. Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand worked two times. But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the situation will just reoccur that way. No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole, and a lid on the lock itself. Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil and then use it dry in the cold months. One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little chance of rain :-) I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to lock the bike outside. I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks with. Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more" :-) Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder? It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain pill bottles. Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you might anneal the metal. -- Cheers, John B. Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A auto-mechanic usedto use. Talk about premature nostalgia. I bought a squeeze bottle of powdered graphite about a month ago. Did you? what sort of shop? Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent for lubricating metal zippers. It's great for zippers in all black clothing. Back in the days of hand drafting you could get as much as you wanted (or more) by emptying your drafting lead sharpener. I gather the old fashioned cast iron ones really are nostalgia items now: http://forgottenartsupplies.com/?wha...ts&image_id=88 When you think about it the changeover to "plastic stuff" was largely influenced by price, not usability. A little flimsy pencil sharpener with wobbly crank knob and dull blades really wasn't better then a "proper" cast iron sharpener with a good strong crank - last a generation or two. But it sure was cheaper. -- Cheers, John B. |
#80
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BBB-41 Powerlock Bicycle Lock
John B. writes:
On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 09:46:40 -0500, Radey Shouman wrote: Sir Ridesalot writes: On Wednesday, December 13, 2017 at 12:52:10 AM UTC-5, John B. wrote: On Tue, 12 Dec 2017 21:46:15 -0500, Frank Krygowski wrote: On 12/12/2017 8:48 PM, John B. wrote: On Wed, 13 Dec 2017 01:23:04 +0100, Emanuel Berg wrote: AMuzi wrote: Alcohol will work much better than boiling water. That's right Any lock will have troubles moving between room temperature and severe cold just from normal condensation. Lube it. Today I tried Sonax, which according to the sticker is exactly what one should use in this situation. It said it was inflammable - probably alcohol in some variety. Didn't work. Boiled water on the other hand worked two times. But it sucks having to do, obviously. And the situation will just reoccur that way. No, one should have a big key, a big keyhole, and a lid on the lock itself. Try rinsing with alcohol or some other solvent to remove all the oil and then use it dry in the cold months. One assumes that at (did you say) -6 degrees (C) there is little chance of rain :-) I usually use dry graphite powder to lubricate locks. But I doubt that makes them impervious to moisture from condensation. I've never had a bike lock freeze up, but in freezing weather, I've almost never had to lock the bike outside. I remember way back when they used to sell graphite power in a little squeeze bottle with a long especially to lubricate auto door locks with. Like a lot of other things from my youth, "you don't that any more" :-) Hmm. Maybe store the lock in a plastic bag with some desiccant powder? It would be a use for the little bags of desiccant that come in certain pill bottles. Or perhaps heat the lock to drive off moisture? Hub dyno users could rig up a little resistance heater, maybe using their stash of old halogen bulbs. Mega-lumen battery light users could cook the lock by holding it in their headlight beams for a while. Be careful not to hold it too long, or you might anneal the metal. -- Cheers, John B. Istill have a tube of powdered graphite that my dad, a Class-A auto-mechanic usedto use. Talk about premature nostalgia. I bought a squeeze bottle of powdered graphite about a month ago. Did you? what sort of shop? I think it was Home Depot -- a national chain of "home improvement" stores. Hardware stores carry them too. Btw, most "lead" pencils are graphite not lead and you can sand the graphite down to whatever fine powder you need/want = also excellent for lubricating metal zippers. It's great for zippers in all black clothing. Back in the days of hand drafting you could get as much as you wanted (or more) by emptying your drafting lead sharpener. I gather the old fashioned cast iron ones really are nostalgia items now: http://forgottenartsupplies.com/?wha...ts&image_id=88 When you think about it the changeover to "plastic stuff" was largely influenced by price, not usability. A little flimsy pencil sharpener with wobbly crank knob and dull blades really wasn't better then a "proper" cast iron sharpener with a good strong crank - last a generation or two. The cast iron sharpeners worked well and lasted forever. Didn't really have a "crank", though, you just turned it with the inserted drafting pencil. But it sure was cheaper. -- Cheers, John B. -- |
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